What to buy?

[ukpaul]

After finding this site & trying to learn as much as I can,
I have decieded to go for a mini truck.
Here's my thought's....

I am considering a1999 or newer Suzuki, mainly for the EFI as it may not get used for 4-6 months of the year, but also parts seem to be more readily available for this make.
I notice on these models the ground clearence is ideal for my needs & with a good set of off road tires this would save me spending any money on a lift kit.
Automatic transmission would be nice, but they seem few & far between.
I'd greatly appreciate anyones input "pros or cons" as I plan to making my purchase within the next month or so
Thanks,
Paul

[fremontminitrucks]

I may catch a lotta flack for this but I think the trucks that aren't fuel injected run just as good as the ones that are.

[BudMan]

Has anyone noticed any difference in cold starts?

[fremontminitrucks]

Maybe the guys in Canada have noticed a difference but we haven't here in ohio and it has been pretty cold lately. Just had a customer test drive a suzuki this weekend that hasn't been started in over a week and she fired right up.

[DarinRay]

On my 2003 Mitsu and 2001 Daihatsu model fuel injected they actually turn over longer than SOME of the carb ones did and do. It actually took some getting use to so I didnt' stop the starting process on the fuel injected ones when turning key. Let see what others think.

Darin

[gbrad]

I have a 1999 Suzuki with fuel injection and a/c. I have noticed that the fuel injection is more powerful and smoother.

Especially at low speeds the fuel injection seems to compensate very well and resists stalling.

It would be hard to go wrong either way, but there is a reason why all newer technology is fuel injected. It's more powerful, more dependable and once you understand the mechanics it's sometimes even easier to trouble shoot.

gbrad

[DRW]

I have a 1991 Suzuki Carry w/carburated engine and it runs great,I have driven an FI mini truck and the difference between the two was small.I am a fan of fuel injection,but in a mini truck where parts can be difficult to obtain and expertice can be questionable,I will stay with the carb.

[dayspowersports]

our carb trucks have been very good trucks. you will see starting problems on all trucks, carb or injected.

[Wolfman]

Both carb and EFI trucks will work fine. EFI is superior only because it eliminates some of the tuning issues that carb engines face. I for one, would gladly trade my carb truck for an EFI one, simply to get away from the goofy idling issues that have been part of the game for mine for quite some time.

[tmikewww]

Wolfman,
was your idling problems running too fast? My Sambar seems to idle quite fast when first started. Normal or not?

Thanks,
tmikewww

[Wolfman]

No, mine starts idling funny after it's warmed up. Sometimes it seems to hold a good RPM, other times, it seems to get rough and stumble. It has been like this ever since I had a spark plug fall off, causing the emissions fault light to come on permanently. Despite replacning all three plugs (two had fouled completely out by the time I got home), the idling problem has persisted, as well as the light has remained lit.

[tmikewww]

speaking of dash lights coming on, what's the red light that looks like a (muffler) with wavy lines above it?

[Wolfman]

That is your emissions fault light.

[jpfanne]

My big problem with the EFI trucks is test equipment. Has anyone been able to pull trouble codes, or connect a scanner to one of these trucks to see what the computer is doing. Good thing about those carbs is that anyone can work on them without any special tools.

Jeff.

[larryn2o]

My big problem with the EFI trucks is test equipment. Has anyone been able to pull trouble codes, or connect a scanner to one of these trucks to see what the computer is doing. Good thing about those carbs is that anyone can work on them without any special tools.

Jeff.

if they are obd compliant then we should be able to read the codes.
check for a connector plug under the dash for obd2. if its older obd 1 type then it may have a plug in the fuse box . it will stick out farther than the others and when a fuse is inserted the dash light will flash a code. all my 1994 & older Suzuki cars were this way . some were made in Canada and others in Japan but had the same wiring.
JDM market may have been different? i'll do some digging on this one.

[larryn2o]

i'm back
here's a link that should help it says that it wikk work with the Jobd (Japan) codes.
http://www.scantool.net/products/index.php?cPath=8&osCsid=1df0a4e0aa90a8512aa3373cb0e3aff3

[tmikewww]

Wolfman,
Do I need toworry about the "emission" light staying on? What does it do?

[Wolfman]

Wolfman,
Do I need toworry about the "emission" light staying on? What does it do?


It is indicating that there is some type of "problem" in the system. It could be the sensor faulty, the catalytic converter bad, or running too rich (causing the cat to be too hot.) If it's the cat bad or the sensor bad, and you're using it off road, you don't have to do anything with it, so long as you don't mind that light being lit. Otherwise, it's gonna take some plain ol' mechanic troubleshooting to find the problem.

[tmikewww]

So, there's nothing that I should be concerned about? The farthest we go on "hard surface road" is maybe 3-4 miles and very seldom then. I might add, I ran up the road and back(2miles) to a friends, all the way up and all the way back, it "purred" like a kitten. The idle was down to what I would call (normal) and was a joy and fun to drive!. I just don't want to have any issues because of a light staying on, and not knowing what it is. Remember, I' am a 60 year old car salesman that knows nothing about mechanics. I know just enough to get myself in trouble!! Oh by the way, 60=kms per hr.(thought they were limited to 25mph????