Wheel application list

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

This may be an old subject ...but does anyone have a list or can provide info regarding which import car or truck 13" & 14" wheels will work on these mini trucks?

[volkswagen50]

What I did was find out exactly what the bolt pattern was on my truck (93 mitsu 4x114.3mm) and then go to some of the regular car aftermarket wheel makers. Some of them list the cars by make with the stock size and bolt pattern on the site, but not always the offset. A trip to the junkyard to get one steel wheel from the car you find will be worth the trip and the 10-15 bucks for the wheel. Then you can test back spacing.

The database of knowledge is still small for our trucks, so post your findings here when you get some. Good luck. Greg

[blackbelt5]

Tom if you will do a search i posted this a few weeks back hope this helps

[eeric]

does anyone know the bolt pattern and offset for a sambar van? Btw, can you tell me what is offset? I'm no knowledge about this ...thanks

[Timetripper]

There's already a thread on this in the Subaru Sambar section.
It's here ---->>>> http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?t=113
p.s. don't forget the "Search" button [either search the whole forum or each section]can be your best friend for digging up this kind of info:)
does anyone know the bolt pattern and offset for a sambar van? Btw, can you tell me what is offset? I'm no knowledge about this ...thanks

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

Does anyone know of a wheel adapter that will work with a 4x110 mini truck hub and adapt to a 14" wheel of some sort? I am considering having them manufactured if I cannot find one. Also I would include a 4x100 and 4x115 adapter if I do....Anyone else interested in these? Any comments or suggestions are apreciated.

[Colin]

Looks like Buckeye Minitrucks (http://www.buckeyeminitrucks.com/Japanese%20Mini%20Truck%20Wheels.htm) sells spacer/adapters.

[larryn2o]

Does anyone know of a wheel adapter that will work with a 4x110 mini truck hub and adapt to a 14" wheel of some sort? I am considering having them manufactured if I cannot find one. Also I would include a 4x100 and 4x115 adapter if I do....Anyone else interested in these? Any comments or suggestions are apreciated.

i got a set off ebay , 110 to 114.3

check the mazda rx 7 web sites they often have them.

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

Thanks for the reply,I have seen plenty of adapters that will change pattern within the 4x100-110-115 Mini trucks and atv wheels,I am looking for an adapter that will allow a 14 small truck or car wheel import or domestic.This will allow one to put a light truck 14" tire on a mini.

[Colin]

What's the difference? Hubcentricity? 4x100mm is the same regardless of application, and they use 12x1.5mm studs on those spacer/adapters.

Colin

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

As we know not all mini trucks are a 4x100mm they also have 4x110 and 4x115,What I am after is an adapter that would go from all of these patterns ..to a 5 hole 14" wheel... japanese or domestic... something fairly common with an offset that would allow them not to stick out too far.I realize there will be some protrusion,no getting around that.My goal would be to be able to put on a taller, mud and snow type 6ply light truck tire.In Japan they have 145/R12 6ply light truck tires for these trucks,you cannot buy a tire like this anywhere in the USA.You can buy 155/R12 and 145/R12 "P" series tires here but this is only a 2 or 4 ply, passenger car tire,or trailer tire.These do not hold up well on our gravel roads,but I have had good luck with the 6ply tires that came on some of my trucks from Japan in these conditions...So I thought it would be nice to lift the truck and put a taller 14" 6 ply light truck type tire for this application as You can buy a 14" 6ply tire here in the USA.
Most likely this will be something I will be having manufactured,as I cannot seem to find anything of the sort.Just wondering if there is any other demand for these,or suggestions.

[Colin]

Why bother converting to five lug? There are plenty of 14" wheels with a 4x100 pattern. :sly:

Both nateisanas and I are running 175/65-14 tires on our stock-height Sambars. He has 91-96 Escort LX wheels, mine are some American Racing units I pulled off an '82 320i.

Colin

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

Great news!...This is what I am after this will help with the 4x100 needs for sure..However I need 4x110 and 4x115mm for my application.Any thoughts here?

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

I spoke too soon,I just found the 115to 100mm on the link you provided...thanks...I cannot find a 110 to 100mm however...this site is Great!

[Colin]

I bet they could make a custom one-off 4x110 to 4x100 spacer. Just a little different setup on the mill.

Colin

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

Well I have done it ..if anyone out there is interested in a wheel adapter for Daihatsu (usually a 110mm bolt pattern) I am having sets made up as these adapters are not available.These will be 110mm x 4 to a 100 mm x 4 pattern with a 12mmx1.5 stud size. Thanks to Colin and more research I found that there are many wheels available in this 100mm x4 pattern in 13" 14" and 15".
The Daihatsu 110mmx4 pattern is a rare size and only a Mazda RX7 79-85 ever used this bolt pattern and they do not fit the mini truck.
I will be receiving my prototype next week and will maybe have to fine tune it but will be able to supply them soon. Cost will be about $50 each,post a reply if interested.
Tom

[gumballf355]

intresting... what about 1st gen wheels don't fit the hijets? Centerbore size too small?

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

Yes the RX7 centerbore is too small for a mini... I will post soon results on my adapters.

[Mighty Milt]

why not just run a 110 to 110 spacer that will get the wheel out past the center bore?

[Mighty Milt]

are the wheels stamped somewhere with what lug size they are? or do you have to know what car to get them from? i remember some of the old wheels having stampings in the for the offset but not the 4x100

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

The 110mmx4 Mazda rx7 wheel is a hard wheel to find because this 110mm pattern was only used on the 1979-85 RX7 GS and Sport 1...the 1984-88 GSL & SE used a different pattern (114.3mmx4)and so did all of the 1986-92 RX7 Models.Since I need a spacer to adapt them I thought it made more sense to produce an adapter that one could have option choices..like 13",14" and 15". I will be posting a list of all available 100mmx4 wheel bolt pattern types available soon.
I also have researched the 114.3mmx4 (commonly called a 115mmx4) wheels used over the last 30 odd years and will post them as well.
This will be a list of all domestic and foreign make wheels with size (13,14,15 inch),center bore dimentions,width and lug size.
Hope someone finds this info usefull????

[b_eastep]

i am interested in all the 4X100.

[zbadboy]

I got this off this sight awhile back. I can not guarantee the accuracy but hope it helps.

4 on 100mm (3.93")

Acura - Integra to '89
Audi - most models to '89
Audi Fox
BMW 1600, 2002
BMW - 2002, 300-series to '89
Chevy - Chevette '76-'87
- Spectrum, Nova '80-'89
Dodge - Omni, Rampage, Aries, 024 '79-'85
- Charger, Daytona (FWD) '82-'89
Honda - all (except '76-'80 Accord, Civic) to '89
Isuzu - Impulse, I-Mark to '89
Nissan - Pulsar, Sentra '87-'89
Opel Kadett
Plymouth - Horizon, TC3, Reliant, Voyager '78-'89
Renault - all to '89
Toyota - Celica, MR2, Tercel '86-'89
VW - Dasher, Fox, Jetta, Rabbit, Scirocco to '89


Jeff

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

*CHEVROLET* / YEAR / SIZE / BOLT / LUG NUT / C-BORE
Nova/Spectrum 88-89 13x5.5 4x100mm 12mmx1.5 -
Prizm 90-on 14x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 -
*DODGE*
Aries 81-86 13x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 57.1
Charger 2.2 82-86 13x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 57.1
Colt 93-94 13x4.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 57.1
Daytona 82-84 14x6 4x100 12mmx1.5 57.1
Neon 94-96 14x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 57.1
*FORD*
Aspire 94-on 13x4.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
Escort LX Wagon 91-94 13X5.5 4X100 12mmX1.5 54.1
Escort GT 91-96 15X6 4X100 12mmx1.5 54.1
Escort LX 92-97 14x5 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
continued next post

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

*HONDA* / YEAR / SIZE / BOLT / LUG NUT / C-BORE
Accord 82-89 13x5 4x100mm 12mmx1.5 56.1
Civic 80-96 13x5 4x100 12mmx1.5 56.1
Civic EX 89-on 14X5 4X100 12mmx1.5 56.1
CRX SI 86-91 14X6 4X100 12mmx1.5 56.1
CRX,Prelude 80-91 13x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 56.1
DELSOL Vtech 92-on 14x6 4x100 12mmx1.5 56.1
Prelude SI 86-91 14X6 4X100 12mmx1.5 56.1
*ISUZU*
I-Mark 83-89 13x5 4x100 12mmx1.5 -
I-Mark turbo 87-89 14x6 4x100 12mmx1.5 60.1
Impulse 83-92 14x6 4x100 12mmx1.5 60.1
Stylus 91-on 14x6 4x100 12mmx1.5 60.1
continued next post

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

*KIA* YEAR SIZE BOLT LUG SIZE C-BORE
Rio 2000-on - ? 4x100mm 12mmx1.5 54.1
Sephia,Spectra 94-0n 13x5 4x100 12mmx1.5 56.1
*MAZDA*
Miata mx5 90-on 14x6 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
MX-3 92-96 14x6 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
MX-3 GS 92-96 15X6 4X100 12mmx1.5 54.1
Protege 90-01 13x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
323 90-94 13X5.5 4X100 12mmx1.5 54.1
*MERCURY*
Topaz 91-96 13x5 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
Tracer 91-96 14x5 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1

continued next post

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

*MITSUBISHI* YEAR SIZE BOLT LUG NUT C-BORE
Mirage 93-96 13x4.5 4x100mm 12mmx1.5 56.1Mirage 94-97 14x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 56.1
Mirage coupe 97-on 14x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 56.1
*NISSAN*
NX 2000 91-93 14X6 4X100 12mmx1.25 59.1
Pulsar SE 87-90 14X6 4X100 12mmx1.25 59.1
Pulsar XE 87-90 13x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.25 59.1
Sentra 87-on 14x6 4x100 12mmx1.25 59.1
200SX 95-97 13X5 4X100 12mmx1.25 59.1
200SX 95-97 14X5.5 4X100 12mmx1.25 59.1
200SX SE-R 95-97 15X5.5 4X100 12mmx1.25 59.1
**PLYMOUTH**
Horizon Omni 79-90 13x5 4x100 12mmx1.5 57.1
Reliant 81-85 13x5 4x100 12mmx1.5 57.1
Voyager 81-85 13x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 57.1
continued next post

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

**TOYOTA** YEAR SIZE BOLT LUG NUT C-BORE
Celica 86-91 13x5.5 4x100mm 12mmx1.5 54.1
Corolla 88-96 13x5 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
Corolla 88-97 14x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
Echo 00-on 13x4.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
MR-2 85-89 14X6 4X100 12mmx1.5 54.1
MR-2 spyder 00-on ? 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
Paseo 92-96 14x5.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
Prius 01-on ? 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
Tercel 83-97 13x4.5 4x100 12mmx1.5 54.1
THESE ARE ALL THE 4X100MM I FOUND PLEASE NOTE NOT ALL WILL FIT YOUR MINI TRUCK... ONCE WE FIND OUT WHAT CENTER BORE WORKS BEST ON MINI TRUCKS WE WILL NARROW THE LIST DOWN...
Tom

[Doug Waggonner]

This may be a dumb question but......to use 14" or 15" tires and wheels on a minitruck wouldnt have to lift it?

[Timetripper]

No not a dumb question at all.
It's all in relation to the overall diameter of the tire.

I'll show you how it works:

Stock kei truck tire is: 145/R12 [usually with a LT afterwards as they do make proper truck tires in Japan]
The actual O.D. of this tire is: 21.134 inches and the section width is 5.71 inches
The next bigger rim size [13"] with a 155/70/R13 yields the following:
Tire O.D. = 21.543 inches and section width = 6.10"
The difference in circumference [how far the tire rolls in 1 revolution] is 1.94%
bigger, making the vehicle speed 71.36mph when the speedo reads 70mph.
A 165/65/R13 is even closer at 21.445 inches O.D.
Want to run 14 inch? Then a 165/65/R14 is 22.445 O.D. / section width: 6.50"
which gives a circumference difference of 6.2% [Actual speed = 74.34 when speedo reads 70 mph]
still perfectly do-able in stock trim.
Want to get crazy? How about a 195/40/R16 tire - They really do make this size tire!
Tire O.D. = 22.142 inches [almost the exact O.D. of the 12" stocker]
Section width= 7.68 inches [the width is probably getting to max]
The two big draw backs with this combo:
1. Unsprung weight of the tire rim as it's probably alot more than stock.
2. Lack of a side wall with 40 series would make for a "interesting" ride:D

This may be a dumb question but......to use 14" or 15" tires and wheels on a minitruck wouldnt have to lift it?

[Doug Waggonner]

Thanks timetripper,

Just by looking at 14" wheels and tires it just seems like you'd gain a little more on the top end than 4.34 mph. What I plan to do, some day when I actually own a mini truck, Is to install 14" or 15" tires and wheels to try to acheve a comfortable RPM at 60mph. Or are these mini trucks not as low geared as I think?
The only mini truck i've ever driven was a CONY 4 speed made in the Phillipines, that poor truck was screaming in 4th gear at 45mph :confused:
That just made me think of another idea...:eek:....Are there higher gears available for the differentals?

[Mighty Milt]

i have a 5 speed but i don't have a tach to give you exact figures, but at 100kmh (62mph) it's really not revving very hard at all. i still have a lot of pedal left in it and power to pick up and pass easily.

try this wheel calculator it seems pretty acurate when compared to what i got on my gps

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

[BigO-L3]

How do you tell if it is 4x100 or x110 or x115? I have no idea what that stands for, except for the 4 bolts:confused:

[Timetripper]

C/P from a tire website:

Most Bolt Patterns are represented in the following manner:

4/100
The "4" indicates the number of holes in the wheel for the bolts to enter and mount the wheel onto the car.
The "100" indicates the diameter of the bolt circle measured in millimeters or inches. 4 & 6 bolt wheels are measured from the center of one bolt hole to the center of the bolt hole directly across from it. On a 5 bolt pattern, it is a bit trickier to measure without special tools. Imagine a circle running through the centers of each bolt hole. You would measure from the center of one bolt hole to the imaginary circle that lays between the opposite two bolt holes.

How do you tell if it is 4x100 or x110 or x115? I have no idea what that stands for, except for the 4 bolts:confused:

[GoFaster]

Thanks timetripper,

Just by looking at 14" wheels and tires it just seems like you'd gain a little more on the top end than 4.34 mph. What I plan to do, some day when I actually own a mini truck, Is to install 14" or 15" tires and wheels to try to acheve a comfortable RPM at 60mph. Or are these mini trucks not as low geared as I think?

I'm in the same wannabe position (for now). A tire 21.5" diameter (i.e. in the range of the stock size) does 938 revolutions per mile.

If you look in this thread ...
http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?t=2091

you can see the ratios for, for example, a normally-aspirated Subaru Sambar. 938 revs/mile x 6.500 x 0.861 = 5250 revs per mile. At 60 mph that's 5250 rpm. At 70 mph, which is probably close to that truck's top speed, it's doing 6124 rpm, which should be close to the RPM at which the engine makes peak power.

Putting taller ratios or taller tires to bring the revs down is one thing, BUT, you can get a situation where the engine won't "pull" the gearing. The top speed (and revs) go down, but the truck won't go as fast because the engine can't put enough force to the ground to push it through the air.

In that thread, the supercharged version of the same truck has not only a taller top gear but also a taller final drive. Works out to 4684 revs per mile. It can do it because the supercharged engine makes more torque, so it'll pull the taller ratio.

I've driven exactly one mini truck, and it was a 5-speed Suzuki Carry (and I want one!). At 100 km/h, the engine was screaming in 4th. It would slowly accelerate in 5th (had it up to 110), and you could tell the engine was spinning ... Still, the pistons and stroke length are like many motorcycle engines. It's built to take it ...

The only mini truck i've ever driven was a CONY 4 speed made in the Phillipines, that poor truck was screaming in 4th gear at 45mph :confused:
That just made me think of another idea...:eek:....Are there higher gears available for the differentals?

That's a very old model. Minor internet searching finds that the engine was at most 360 cc! No wonder it would have been screaming at 45 mph ...

Re differentials, depends on model. Honda and Subaru have transverse engines with transaxles (like a front drive car, but with everything sitting in the back) and that makes parts swapping hard because everything is inside the transmission case. All of the others have the old fashioned traditional separate transmission and live-axle rear end. The Suzuki and Daihatsu models were sold (outside Japan) with 1.0 litre engines, and I'm sure those had taller gearing, and with leaf-spring rear ends it ought to be a simple matter to swap axles or diffs. BUT ... will the little engine pull it?

[Mighty Milt]

yet another good reason why i've kept my silly little stock tires on my truck thus far. it cruises very nicely between 110-120kmh on those little 145's. anything larger will not only increase your gearing, but it's more rotating mass to get moving, and more rotating mass to try and slow down. not to mention more resistance with a larger foot print on the road.

i've been down this road before with VW's. and quickly UNDERSTOOD the old saying about "for every action there is a reaction". i started off with a 67 beetle with a stock engine that made about 55hp... i was looking for a "healthy daily driver with decent gas mileage"... i ended up with a 200+ HP fire breather that wouldn't run on anything less than 105 octane... and spent a lot of cash doing it. so i'm trying to be conservative on this project.

there is nothing i would like more than to pep my truck up a bit and put some decent wheels on it, but i hate throwing good money out the window, and having to admit that the engineers really did know what they were doing :D

BTW, i thought a live axle was solid like when a drag car is running a spool? these little trucks have a diff in them... :confused:

[greg0187]

I'm with Milt. I don't know if its the Daihatsu's gearing or what but the trucks got plenty of power without the so called "Screaming" and with the stock wheels/tires the truck runs great, even with my 25" ATV tires I have no problem achieving speeds in excess of 60mph with plenty of power to spare. :2cents:

-Greg

[GoFaster]

"Live" just means the differential (or welded-solid "spool"!) is built into the axle assembly and goes up and down with suspension movement, and it's a different matter from the type of differential.

The Carry of my current dreams has the suspension *lowered*, and the "headache" bar either removed or trimmed back so that none of it projects into the air stream, in the interest of a little less drag ...

[Mighty Milt]

don't even get me going, i've been fighting the urge to slam my truck and my buddy at work is still trying to talk me into bagging it... i have a set of bags just sitting in my garage doing nothing :(

[Timetripper]

Milt, Your'e going to hook a set of bagpipes up to your stacks? Cool!
JK :D

[GoFaster]

don't even get me going, i've been fighting the urge to slam my truck and my buddy at work is still trying to talk me into bagging it... i have a set of bags just sitting in my garage doing nothing :(

well get out the bandsaw and MIG welder and start making something happen :D

[Mighty Milt]

Gofaster, dude!! you gotta stop, this is killing me!!

#1 i'm a fabricator by trade, and could do this in my sleep, aside from the fact that i have a gimp hand due to an accident at work, they had to harvest tendons from my forearm and rebuilt a joint in my hand... i have all the tools and equipment... i love to lower things

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/miltdamnit1/Scion-1.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/miltdamnit1/IMAGE_00079.jpg

from this.. (drug it home for $100)
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/miltdamnit1/cad2.jpg

to this...
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/miltdamnit1/cadfinish7.jpg

#2 i live in cow country, and don't know how well i could navigate the roads in a lowered stance

#3 it's 4wd, i can see it now, "yo, mac daddy milt, you gotsta kick in that fo' wheel drive so we could get over that speed bump, yo"

[greg0187]

Hey Milt, Not that I'm against lowering. I've done a few myself, but a 4x4 no way. How about this: I've always thought one of these trucks would look bad *** with a lift and low profile all terrains. That way you can still use the 4WD but maintain the handling on the highway. Not to mention you already have the stack. Just thought I'd run that by you.

-Greg

[Mighty Milt]

yeah that's really what i'm aiming for, mostly just biding my time till my hand is a usefull member of society again :rolleyes:

i would like to lift it only about 2 inches to avoid too much hassle with the drive train lowering and all, and put a low pro 14" or 13" a/t on it... if it can be found.

my wife know's i'm an idiot out on the road... not like a terrible driver but she's been in the passenger seat in the mud :D and her biggest fear is me building it too tall and top heavy and her getting that call... "uhm, honey, you know i love you right?... can you get the dodge and the tow straps and the trailer... maybe call dave for some help... my truck is on it's side... no, baby, i'm allright.. just a little banged up..."

:rolleyes: <---jen

[greg0187]

I know what ya mean. I was worried about the truck being top heavy, but you could ask several people that have ridden in mine and they will tell you, well you know, how crazy I am, and how I almost got them killed. LOL

Anyway, someone posted this video awile back. I didn't belive it at first, trickery you know, but I do now.

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=D9_BoKnCpmA

Greg

[GoFaster]

The center-of-gravity (plus that I'd be driving it on road all the time and almost NEVER off-road it) is why I wouldn't consider lifting one of these ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1Vs9TN2vdU&feature=related

PS I'm not talking about slamming it (BTW that Caddy looks baaaaaaad, ya know in a good way of course) - just an inch or two depending on how the suspension is designed.

This is (sort of) what I want it to be able to do ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26PYrJEvUCc&feature=related

[Mighty Milt]

there's no way you could cruise on the two side wheels with an open diff, but after mastering riding a unicycle, i think i've got enough balance to do that :D

keep in mind i'm sittin in the living room working on my laptop.... she heard the guys from top gear and her ears perked up (gotta love her for her recognition of the motorheads)

the missus looked at these over my shoulder, then stared and me and said "NO!"

lol :rolleyes:

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

I thought I would finish what I had started with this thread,regarding wheels and adapters for a Daihatsu (110mm to 100mm). I got my 1st set of adapters I had manufactured for the impossible 110mm x 4 bolt pattern that most all pre 1999 Daihatsu mini trucks have. These really worked out great so I am posting a pic of my 98 Daihatsu SI with a set of Acura 14" 100mmx4 wheels I found at the salvage yard.I mounted a set of 175/r70 14's up and what a great change from those 12" tires. She cruises at 70 no problem .. even with my old 1936 Indian chief on board!...I had several sets of these adapters made up so e mail me if you need a set($200 for full set includes lug nuts 12x1.5mm)
Tom

[Mighty Milt]

the wheels look good, and the side skirts on the bed are fantastic!! but, nothing compares to the indian :D

[greg0187]

Great work Tom. I'm sure other members appreciate the hard work you put into this as well. BTW You can add Saturn to the list of wheels for the 4x100. They fit mine just fine.

-Greg

[Timetripper]

Tom, I have found your list very useful as well
Thanks for the info:)
I quite often point posters to this thread for those
"what fit's what questions" and I always make sure to give you credit
for it though.

[dwink]

That is an awesome list you compiled! I know you posted several days ago, but I just saw it. Nice Hijet, did you build those skirts are did they come from japan on the truck? Also how much offset do your spacers have? Oh, just saw Milt's Caddy from the earlier post also, Big Pimpin!

[Tom's Mini Trucks]

Thanks all! .. The adapters are 1 inch thick, The side skirts or a factory item on the IS model ,I am considering having these reproduced in fiberglass for all models and making them available to the public. The factory skirts are steel. Any interest out there in a set of these???.. Also I just completed my 114.3mm x 4 wheel application llist and will be posting soon.
Tom

[larryn2o]

adapters from 110 x 4 to 4.5 on 4 and 4.25 on 4

a bit wide, but could work with FWD offset wheels

http://airbagit.com/index.php?cPath=1_4&sort=2a&page=5

[Mighty Milt]

another good list for you guys that need 4 x 100 wheels...

http://www.miata.net/faq/wheel_weights.html

[Mighty Milt]

mazda miata 14" x 5.5" rims fit very nicely. the tires are a bit larger than i wanted, but were brand new 185/65R14 (23.5") and fit without a lift kit and without rubbing anything but the front mud flap on a hard turn. i will be putting a 2" lift kit shortly.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/miltdamnit1/newrims.jpg

[zbadboy]

Did you find them at the scrap yard? I wonder if they would work on my 99 Suzi with 4x100 rims?Jeff

[Mighty Milt]

I found them on craigslist, $200 with brand new tires on them

[zbadboy]

Great Deal

[Timetripper]

Excellent! :D
Welcome to Club 14 :cool:

[Terrh]

13" mazda rx-7 wheels from 1979-1985 RX-7's should fit no problem, they're 4x110 bolt pattern. Many other early 80's mazdas shared this pattern too.

Several ford products used a 4x108 pattern which /may/ fit as well..


I just read the previous pages and saw that someone said they won't fit.

I've seen TWO seperate hijets with RX-7 wheels. I'm sure they'll fit.

adding to the rx-7 center bore (which is IIRC huge, I'm surprised that the truck is bigger) if that is the only issue it's probably not that difficult to solve.

Also, they're probably a reasonably common wheel. All the Base, GS, and GSL rx-7's (about 90% of them produced) from 1978-1985 will have that bolt pattern. That's 200,000+ cars. Or 800,000 wheels.

[full house]

Installation of McGard Wheel Lock Nuts/Bolts

1) Remove wheel covers (if equipped) and one lug nut/bolt from each wheel. Verify that lock style,
seating surface style (cone, radius, flat, shank, etc.), length (total length, shaft length, etc.) and
thread size of the lug nut/bolt removed match the McGard wheel lock.

Note: When servicing the vehicle, the lock should always be the first fastener removed from and the
last fastener installed onto the wheel!

2) By hand, install a McGard wheel lock onto each wheel. Use only one lock per wheel.

Note: Impact guns usually cannot be set to and/or maintain proper pressure to obtain proper installation torque and should not be used for lock installation. Use of impact guns (pneumatic, electric, etc.) for installation may cause over tightening and permanent damage to lock and/or key.

3) Using the McGard key and a wrench, tighten each wheel lock to the torque specified on your vehicle owner's manual. For best results, always use a torque wrench and a socket. Keep the key pattern firmly
and squarely engaged into the lock pattern. They can be kept square to each other via direct inward
pressure. This will prevent uneven pressure on the key which could result in damage to the lock
and/or key.

Note: Over-tightening the lock could result in difficulty of removal. McGard does not recommend the
use of oil, grease or anti-seize lubricants on threads. Spraying the threads with a greaseless lubricant
once a year is recommended.

4) If installing close-end lug nuts or wheel lock nuts, make sure that they have not bottomed out on
the stud (bottomed out refers to the closed end of the nut resting on the stud, while the bottom of the
nut fails to fully contact the wheel). Check for space or gaps between wheel and lock nut. If this is the
case, please contact your local dealer or our service hotline.

5) If installing wheel lock bolts, please make sure the shank length matches the original bolt. Too short
a shank could cause thread damage. Too long a shank can extend beyond the rotor and cause damage
to other vehicle parts.

6) After 25 miles of driving check the torque and, if necessary, re-tighten locks with a torque wrench
to the torque given in the vehicle owner's manual.

Removal of over-tightened Wheel Lock Nuts/Bolts

Warning: We recommend using protective gloves and eye protection when removing
over-tightened locks!

1) Over-tighten all lug nuts/bolts on the problem wheel to remove pressure from the lock nut/bolt.
Do not tighten to the point of stud or lug nut/bolt thread damage.

2) Remove the wheel lock with the McGard key. When using hand tools such as a lug wrench, ratchet,
etc. direct inward pressure on the key must be used. This will keep the key pattern firmly and squarely engaged into the lock pattern.

Note: Normally McGard does not recommend the use of an impact gun, but if the key is not attached to another object (some McGard keys are equipped with a plastic or steel cable), an impact gun does work
best for removing over-tightened locks. If using an impact gun, the lock may not come free immediately. Continue using the impact gun as the repeated ratchet motion will slowly loosen the lock.
Please note: The key has to be completely engaged into the lock nut/bolt pattern. The opening tool
(impact gun, 4-way lug wrench, etc.) has to be placed straight onto the key. If the key and/or the
opening tool are not placed correctly, it could cause a damage of the key and/or the lock nut/bolt.

3) If the wheel lock does not free itself, loosen one lug nut/bolt (4 hole wheels) or two lug nuts/bolts
(5 hole wheels) opposite the wheel lock and repeat step 2.

Note: If the wheel lock still will not come off, call McGard Customer Service Department for further assistance: 00800 25 99 34 00 (toll-free). Upon removal of the wheel lock, remove all lug nuts/bolts and remount the wheel. Install the wheel lock per the installation instructions found in this application guide.

[okiecat]

Hey Tom, hope your still working on that list of rims for 115mm. I have a Mit. I just got it yesterday and have already started looking for tires and rims to fit. Adios

[oldsnowman]

Hey Tom, hope your still working on that list of rims for 115mm. I have a Mit. I just got it yesterday and have already started looking for tires and rims to fit. Adios

what model is your mitsu? mine is a 92 U42T and the bolt pattern is 4x114.3mm

[okiecat]

Snowman, Hey Mine is a 98 Mit. I asume it is also a 4X 115 or technically a 114.3. Got any clues on which wheels fit. I would like a 14 or 13. I think. This is all new to me. I'm also thinking about a 2-3" lift. I have got to have a m/s tire for gravel and paved roads. 75% of driving the rest is in plowed fields. Adios