View Full Version : wheel alignment
07-12-2008, 09:50 AM
what are the wheel alignment specs for the mini trucks?:frustration:
1993 Daihatsu Hijet-castor (3.3-5.4),camber (-.5-+1.5), Toe (.06-.19)
07-13-2008, 05:47 AM
1994 Mits (U15D) LHD 4WD
Caster: 2 deg 50' +- 1 deg
Camber: 1 deg 25' +- 45'
Toe-in: 2-7mm (.08-.27 inch)
Kingpin inclination: 11 deg 20'
Toe in: 2-7mm (.08 - .27in)
1994 Mits (U14T) LHD 2WD
Caster: 3 deg +- 1 deg
Camber: 1 deg 45' +- 45'
Toe-in: 2-7mm (.08-.27 inch)
Kingpin inclination: 13 deg 20'
Toe in: 2-7mm (.08 - .27in)
NOTE: (per Mits manual)
1. "Camber and caster are pre-set at the factory and cannot be adjusted."
2. "If camber and caster are not within the standard value, replace bent or damaged parts."
Don't know if this applies to any of the other Kei's U.S. or JDM (just FYI)
11-28-2008, 12:15 PM
would to much toe in make one dart? i have about 3/8 inch . didn't notice it till i put the 5 speed in, now it is a bit of a handful over 90 KPM. any thing over 140 will give you religion!
11-28-2008, 01:44 PM
any thing over 140 will give you religion
c/p from this site http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html
When a pair of wheels is set so that their leading edges are pointed slightly towards each other, the wheel pair is said to have toe-in. If the leading edges point away from each other, the pair is said to have toe-out. The amount of toe can be expressed in degrees as the angle to which the wheels are out of parallel, or more commonly, as the difference between the track widths as measured at the leading and trailing edges of the tires or wheels. Toe settings affect three major areas of performance: tire wear, straight-line stability and corner entry handling characteristics.
For minimum tire wear and power loss, the wheels on a given axle of a car should point directly ahead when the car is running in a straight line. Excessive toe-in or toe-out causes the tires to scrub, since they are always turned relative to the direction of travel. Too much toe-in causes accelerated wear at the outboard edges of the tires, while too much toe-out causes wear at the inboard edges.
So if minimum tire wear and power loss are achieved with zero toe, why have any toe angles at all? The answer is that toe settings have a major impact on directional stability. The illustrations at right show the mechanisms involved. With the steering wheel centered, toe-in causes the wheels to tend to roll along paths that intersect each other. Under this condition, the wheels are at odds with each other, and no turn results.
When the wheel on one side of the car encounters a disturbance, that wheel is pulled rearward about its steering axis. This action also pulls the other wheel in the same steering direction. If it's a minor disturbance, the disturbed wheel will steer only a small amount, perhaps so that it's rolling straight ahead instead of toed-in slightly. But note that with this slight steering input, the rolling paths of the wheels still don't describe a turn. The wheels have absorbed the irregularity without significantly changing the direction of the vehicle. In this way, toe-in enhances straight-line stability.
If the car is set up with toe-out, however, the front wheels are aligned so that slight disturbances cause the wheel pair to assume rolling directions that do describe a turn. Any minute steering angle beyond the perfectly centered position will cause the inner wheel to steer in a tighter turn radius than the outer wheel. Thus, the car will always be trying to enter a turn, rather than maintaining a straight line of travel. So it's clear that toe-out encourages the initiation of a turn, while toe-in discourages it.
The toe setting on a particular car becomes a tradeoff between the straight-line stability afforded by toe-in and the quick steering response promoted by toe-out. Nobody wants their street car to constantly wander over tar strips-the never-ending steering corrections required would drive anyone batty. But racers are willing to sacrifice a bit of stability on the straightaway for a sharper turn-in to the corners. So street cars are generally set up with toe-in, while race cars are often set up with toe-out.
With four-wheel independent suspension, the toe must also be set at the rear of the car. Toe settings at the rear have essentially the same effect on wear, directional stability and turn-in as they do on the front. However, it is rare to set up a rear-drive race car toed out in the rear, since doing so causes excessive oversteer, particularly when power is applied. Front-wheel-drive race cars, on the other hand, are often set up with a bit of toe-out, as this induces a bit of oversteer to counteract the greater tendency of front-wheel-drive cars to understeer.
Remember also that toe will change slightly from a static situation to a dynamic one. This is is most noticeable on a front-wheel-drive car or independently-suspended rear-drive car. When driving torque is applied to the wheels, they pull themselves forward and try to create toe-in. This is another reason why many front-drivers are set up with toe-out in the front. Likewise, when pushed down the road, a non-driven wheel will tend to toe itself out. This is most noticeable in rear-drive cars.
The amount of toe-in or toe-out dialed into a given car is dependent on the compliance of the suspension and the desired handling characteristics. To improve ride quality, street cars are equipped with relatively soft rubber bushings at their suspension links, and thus the links move a fair amount when they are loaded. Race cars, in contrast, are fitted with steel spherical bearings or very hard urethane, metal or plastic bushings to provide optimum rigidity and control of suspension links. Thus, a street car requires a greater static toe-in than does a race car, so as to avoid the condition wherein bushing compliance allows the wheels to assume a toe-out condition.
It should be noted that in recent years, designers have been using bushing compliance in street cars to their advantage. To maximize transient response, it is desirable to use a little toe-in at the rear to hasten the generation of slip angles and thus cornering forces in the rear tires. By allowing a bit of compliance in the front lateral links of an A-arm type suspension, the rear axle will toe-in when the car enters a hard corner; on a straightaway where no cornering loads are present, the bushings remain undistorted and allow the toe to be set to an angle that enhances tire wear and stability characteristics. Such a design is a type of passive four-wheel steering system.
It almost sounds like you have a toe out conditon by your description
11-28-2008, 01:51 PM
c/p from http://www.drifting.com/forums/tech-discussion-forum/4943-advanced-suspension-setup-toe-camber-spring-rates-learn-here.html
Toe in – front: car is stable going straight. Turn in is average
Usable range: 0-1/8th inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: car has slow twitchiness under braking; feels odd; kills outside edge of tires
Toe out – front: Car turns in well; works pretty well on FF car as they tend to toe-in under load.
Usable range: 0-1/4 inch
Symptoms of too much adjustment: Car is really twitchy under braking; car wanders on straight road; kills inside edge of tire
11-29-2008, 05:33 AM
good reading. i jacked it up and have a small amount of play in one tie rod end. and the top of the tires tilt in when loaded. sounds like a trip to the alinement shop.
03-31-2009, 07:49 AM
THIS IS FOR ALL SUZUKI EVERY AND CARRY VEHICLES!
Toe in(mm) 2-4
Camber 1*00(+-) 1*
Caster 3*30 (+-)1*
King pin Degree 11*30'
Degree inside 40 van 37 truck
" outside 36 van 34 truck
Side Slip (m/km) in 2.0 - out 1.0
Wheel bearing in-out front and rear 0-0.4
Rim Circumference within (mm) 2.5
Tire size Front 5.00-12-4PR ULT, 5.00-12-6PR ULT
Rear 145R12-6PR LT, 155/7013 75S
Air pressure Front 20.2-2.6
Yokohama Motors Japan
03-31-2009, 10:21 AM
Anyone have the spec for 1992 Honda?
10-31-2009, 08:31 PM
I am also looking for alignment specs for a '92 Honda Acty 4wd and a '92 Suzuki Carry 4wd Thanks
11-01-2009, 03:40 PM
Did you read post # 8 above? :confused:
11-01-2009, 04:39 PM
I certainly did. Thanks for editing your post to include "all"
12-08-2009, 01:52 PM
I finally answered my own question and am passing it along. Sourced from James L Danko factory service manual. This should cover 1989-1997 truck and vans.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.10 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.