clutch overheat light

[richjen]

just got 1995 kv4 vw replica sambar great, but has clutch overheat light on .
i have driven for 20miles or so before it goes off, no particular change in performance, often comes on when a/c or lights switch on. the vw kit rear fendor gets hot without a cut out for exhaust, just a deflector plate. wonder whether engine bay is getting to hot?
engine temperature generally ok, but antifreeze was changed before i pick it up and now hear glugging sound, perhaps air lock in rad stopping oil cooling? temp guage generally even,
i am going to sort fender /exhaust any one has any ideas,
also rad topped up from cap in door pillar, does this need to be filled to top of filler, have not seen expansion tank
do you use 30w oil can you use 5/30w oil
what fluid do you use in ecvt tranmission
mine is efi supercharged
what are the normal service intervals,
got james manual but does not give these details
hope to hear from someone soon
regards richard from surrey uk

[Mighty Milt]

i've never heard of a clutch overheat light :confused: have you got a picture of it?

[Timetripper]

I would think he is refering to the "Catalytic Convertor Overheat light" - located on the
upper right hand corner of gauge cluster. This light comes on when ever there is a
malfunction in the system that allows too much raw unburnt fuel to go through cylinder after
combustion and ends up igniting in the catalytic convertor causing the temp of the catalytic convertor
to go off the deep end - resulting in a melt down. This is why it seems very hot around the exhaust area of truck.
This needs to be addressed shortly.

I wouldn't use 30W - 10W30 is the correct oil called for.

Air needs to be purged from cooling system - haven't run into this before but the radiator cap is under the
passenger seat in a PU truck - van maybe the same. It should be the high point so if you open cap when cold
and fill, leave open start van and see if air comes out as it warms up and fill as required.

Not sure on tranny fluid for ECVT - will try to find a answer

[tmikewww]

Early on (9/10 months ago) I inquired about "this light". The answers/suggestions I got was to "cut and ground" the wire coming off the converter. I tried disconnecting and grounding but it made no difference.The "light" stayed on. Now we (owners with light on) are being told that our "Sambars" are going to be "toast" if we keep running them with this light on. Like I said, it's now been 9 or 10 months since I inquired about this, the "light" is still on, was on when I bought it, and is still running fine. Whats a new owner to believe? I read on here that one "owner" purchased the part in question, and paid in the neighborhood of a $190.
Tmikewww
(tom)

[wainair]

I guess then it becomes a question if you want to gamble on if it is a faulty sensor or an acutal catalitic overheat problem. Personally I'd rather fork out the $190 for a new sensor and be sure that it is not the probalby more expensive catalitic problem. Though I'm sure the sensor is probably hard to get any way. Could an emmissions test tell you if it is a catalitic overheat problem and not just a sensor fault? Just spit balling.

[Mighty Milt]

isn't the O2 sensor a pretty important part of the fuel injection system? if you ground it just to get the light of it will send the wrong signal to the injection system and mess up your fuel economy. and the engine could be running too rich or too lean, that would be especially scarey in a super charged model.

[Timetripper]

Early on (9/10 months ago) I inquired about "this light". The answers/suggestions I got was to "cut and ground" the wire coming off the converter. I tried disconnecting and grounding but it made no difference.The "light" stayed on. Now we (owners with light on) are being told that our "Sambars" are going to be "toast" if we keep running them with this light on. Like I said, it's now been 9 or 10 months since I inquired about this, the "light" is still on, was on when I bought it, and is still running fine. Whats a new owner to believe? I read on here that one "owner" purchased the part in question, and paid in the neighborhood of a $190.
Tmikewww
(tom)


tom:

I you new exactly what was causing the overheat light to come on then it would'nt be such a big deal as not knowing why the light was on
If the cat overheats, melts and doesn't block up the exhaust then you will have higher than normal emissions. If that's not applicable in your location then that part is ok. Still doesn't answer the cause/ long term effects of the orginal overheat light coming on



I guess then it becomes a question if you want to gamble on if it is a faulty sensor or an acutal catalitic overheat problem. Personally I'd rather fork out the $190 for a new sensor and be sure that it is not the probalby more expensive catalitic problem. Though I'm sure the sensor is probably hard to get any way. Could an emmissions test tell you if it is a catalitic overheat problem and not just a sensor fault? Just spit balling.


wainair, Excellant idea, should narrow things down a bit


isn't the O2 sensor a pretty important part of the fuel injection system? if you ground it just to get the light of it will send the wrong signal to the injection system and mess up your fuel economy. and the engine could be running too rich or too lean, that would be especially scarey in a super charged model.


Milt, There are two sensors in the Sambar exhaust - O2 sensor that is located somewhere near the cat [haven't opened mine up to see if it's just before the cat or right on the cat body] and the second sensor is located down stream on the body of the muffler and just turns the dash light on after a preset temp has been reached.

[dmerc]

Personally, I would gut the Cat, and be done with it. Most likely the light is on BECAUSE the Cat is already plugged up to some extent.

BTW, I'd guess, if like O2 sensors I'm familiar with, it only affects mixture at idle, and up to 2500rpm,tops.

[Hightower]

Hi richjen,

I've got a 92 KV4, supercharged with ECVT. My "Clutch Overheat" light has not illuminated, but I do hear the gurgling sound at start up when cold. Do you still hear it when the van is warm?

If you find the answer to the fluid for the tranny, I'd appreciate it if you shared.

Cheers.

[Timetripper]

Answer to ECVT fluid is: Subaru ATF and I would think that should be available at the Subaru dealer as there Justy's used ECVT in NA vehicles.
Just make sure you confirm with parts guy that it is ok to be used in a ECVT tranny. I would'nt use generic ATF cause you never know what additives Subaru has added to there fluid for these tranny's IMO.

Hi richjen,

I've got a 92 KV4, supercharged with ECVT. My "Clutch Overheat" light has not illuminated, but I do hear the gurgling sound at start up when cold. Do you still hear it when the van is warm?

If you find the answer to the fluid for the tranny, I'd appreciate it if you shared.

Cheers.

[canadian1]

isn't the O2 sensor a pretty important part of the fuel injection system? if you ground it just to get the light of it will send the wrong signal to the injection system and mess up your fuel economy. and the engine could be running too rich or too lean, that would be especially scarey in a super charged model.

1995 trks. do not have the e.f.i. engine.

[Timetripper]

Being that you are a dealer I'm suprised that you don't know this.
1990 - up Sambar had option of supercharged EMPI engine that put out 58hp [55ps]. Please see attached picture for your reference.

1995 trks. do not have the e.f.i. engine.

[canadian1]

sorry; but 3 years ago i quit importing subaru and honda.

[misterturbo]

I just brought over a KV4 supercharged.. There is indeed a "Cluch Overheat" light as well as the red catalytic converter warning light..

According to the Justy fanboys, The ATF fluid for the ECVTs was supposedly Subaru branded Dexron II, and not some special formulation like newer CVT transmission require.. But the fluid is apparantly not sold anymore in North America, so the Justy guys just use Dexron II/III ATF which they say is the same.

Clutch overheat is usually due to insuffucient or degraded ATF fluid. Or perhaps clogged filter. Apparantly there is a fine mesh filter in the ECVT transmissions of the Justy (which I would presume is the same as ours) that can get clogged. Or if the transmission is slipping, it could cause overheating (new band required)

[Timetripper]

Great post, thanks for the info. I didn't stop to think that the ECVT's would have a clutch in them :rolleyes:
So this info would apply to all the automatic Sambar's up until they switched back to 3sp auto's - clutch light that is.
As a thought maybe you should do a post in the Subaru "reference" section with this info so it will be easy to find for anyone else wondering

I just brought over a KV4 supercharged.. There is indeed a "Cluch Overheat" light as well as the red catalytic converter warning light..

According to the Justy fanboys, The ATF fluid for the ECVTs was supposedly Subaru branded Dexron II, and not some special formulation like newer CVT transmission require.. But the fluid is apparantly not sold anymore in North America, so the Justy guys just use Dexron II/III ATF which they say is the same.

Clutch overheat is usually due to insuffucient or degraded ATF fluid. Or perhaps clogged filter. Apparantly there is a fine mesh filter in the ECVT transmissions of the Justy (which I would presume is the same as ours) that can get clogged. Or if the transmission is slipping, it could cause overheating (new band required)

[richjen]

hi just caught up with postings
glad we sorted out the fact that there is a clutch temperature light ......
i know as it continues to come on at various times
i got the idle speed manually adjusted and thought that would resolve the problem, then turned on air con, and o it went again,
fluid looks clean does not smell is clear and ok level
perhaps an electrical fault?
i might try filter clearance, is it a mesh one like an engine strainer> or replacable? i am still confused about best fluid to use can you flush or would you advise removing sump to clear filter
manythanks for posting any othersuggestions or people who can help in
England ...... Richjen

[Timetripper]

Post # 14 - misterturbo had the answers:



Dexron II/III ATF for fluid
&
Apparantly there is a fine mesh filter in the ECVT transmissions

After reading the Subaru America Manuals in the link below I would say if the light is intermitannt then it is more likely to be a electrical problem.

You might check any sensor connections going into the tranny to make sure they are clean and making a good connection - usually a plug goes right on the sensor or a short lenght of wire and then a two part plug.

Get some spray on "electrical contact cleaner" and undo any plugs or connections that go to the tranny. Also sometimes a very small sharp pick is sometimes usefull to get the crud out of the contacts. When clean use something to protect the terminals from corrosion befor reassembling the plug.
Sometimes they can get bunged up on the inside and still look ok on the outside.

hi just caught up with postings
glad we sorted out the fact that there is a clutch temperature light ......
i know as it continues to come on at various times
i got the idle speed manually adjusted and thought that would resolve the problem, then turned on air con, and o it went again,
fluid looks clean does not smell is clear and ok level
perhaps an electrical fault?
i might try filter clearance, is it a mesh one like an engine strainer> or replacable? i am still confused about best fluid to use can you flush or would you advise removing sump to clear filter
manythanks for posting any othersuggestions or people who can help in
England ...... Richjen

[Timetripper]

Just found a link to a really useful site for you:
Dustys Justys
http://www.dustysjustys.com/ecvt.htm

He has a link there to a two part .pdf called:
ECVT System Diagnosis Manual Part I & II

Hopefully that will answer all your questions

[Mighty Milt]

when you say you lowered the idle and the light went off, but when you turned on the a/c it came on again. i'm guessing that's when the high idle solenoid kicked on and idled the motor up?

at a low idle the transmission isn't making enough pressure at the torque converter to turn the clutch, but on a higher idle the you are building more pressure and it will be getting closer to the lockup speed. as it gets there it may be engaging / disengaging or to put it a better way, the pressure is too low to totally engage it and not high enough to lock it up.

at what rpm does the light typically come on? only at that low speed or once the tranny is 'locked' up?

[richjen]

Well, i did set off a lot of discussion over this problem- sorry took a photo of light but lost it on memory stick-- yes there is a light,
Now, I received at least three suggestions that filter in autobox needed changing, and i was considering this, so much so that i contacted an autobox supplier of all bits to these boxes in Uk so i could get a spare gasket and even a new filter/pan - he was very helpful and after quizzing me over the fact that when ancillaries were switched on the light came on, he felt, as i did that the answer was in faulty electrics and advised me to check battery and earthing points and not to buy his goodies. So instead i bought a new battery and set about cleaning all connections. The old battery voltage was good, lights were great, but connectors were a little dirty. It is amazing how thin the earthing cables and straps are. i did not want to clean up main earth to body as looked like a captive nut, similarly to the gearbox but these were on for good anyway. i cleaned theother ends and engine eathing cables---
Guess what-- no clutch overheat light coming on! apparently the control unit measures the current to the clutch within prescribed limits, if the voltage drops then current increases and on goes the light.
I also fitted an extension chrome tail pipe to the exhaust cutting a hole through the vw replica kit bumper skirting-- runs much better--
need to investigate air intake as i think this is restricted by vw look alike front panel- can someone advise, i see the air intake to the supoercharger comes from the chassis rail that acts as a conduit for air from the front?
The engine bay still gets warm/hot as no vents to glassfibre vw kit boot-
needs redetailing.
I still am suffering from low mpg 31 at last count, driving between 30-50mph
although engine runs fine best mpg is 40.
typically runs 30mph at 2900rpm, 40mph @3400 rpm 50mph @4200rpm approx
still really enjoying running around as daily transport, and picking up supplies of wood from a factory for my log burner.
Get many waves from young and old alike
I hope you guys at mini truck can avoid impending ban and continue enjoying these great machines-- Richjen

[Timetripper]

Good news to hear it was electrical.
Confirmed my thoughts after having read the Service manual I posted
The mpg range you posted is right on the money
so I would say everything is ok, the air intake is up under the vw nose
but because the mpg range is ok I would say it is not a problem

[richjen]

thanks timetripper for your comments