View Full Version : fuel pump trouble
10-31-2008, 05:11 PM
I have a 1992 mits mini and the fuel pump stop working. I pulled the hose off the end and turned the key on and off and it would click and pump once and a little gas came out but it wont keep pumping. Can I go to napa and by a electric pump and swap it out?
11-01-2008, 11:29 AM
napa has lots of parts...i would take it with you and they should be able to match something up. let us know what you find:)
98 SNAKE EATER
11-21-2008, 05:28 PM
Did you ever get your pump?
Just curious if NAPA had sumthin comparabl to stock...
11-21-2008, 05:59 PM
Yes I picked up a universal pump that works great. There are 3 wires on the old pump and only 2 on the new pump. It took me a while to hook up the right wires but after they were hooked up right it works good.
98 SNAKE EATER
11-21-2008, 06:04 PM
That's odd, I just pulled my pump yesterday and it only had 2 wires :confused:
Happen to have a part number for the universal pump?
11-21-2008, 06:27 PM
It was a Facet-Purolator Posi-Flo Electronic fuel pump 50100 series.
12-21-2008, 12:13 PM
I was having problems with mine cranking last week and the first thing i thought of was the fuel pump, I pulled off the outlet end of the hose and i got the same thing that you got a little spurt of gas. I checked futher and found that I had no fire and worked on that. connection before the distributor was the problem. I found that the truck had to be running before the fuel pump would pump more than a spurt of gas. I have three wires going to my elect pump. I am glad to know where to get one though, mine is very rusty on the outside.
01-06-2009, 11:55 AM
I am having a similar problem on a 1996 minicab. I disconnected the outlet to the pump and no fuel would come out with the key on. I found a generic inline pump that works, but with all three wires connected, there is no spark. Does anyone know what each of the hot wires should be connected to? I was able to just disconnect one and get the pump and ignition to work, but now the truck is sluggish and wants to die like there is still an issue. Thoughts?
01-06-2009, 01:16 PM
you need all three wires to go to the original pump. on wire is a ground, one is a hot wire that allows it to prime, the other wire keeps it running once the engine is running. just because the pump doesn't pump with the key in the on position doesn't mean it doesn't work... the engine has to stay running for the fuel pump to continue pumping. i think it's tied into the ignition module.
01-06-2009, 02:24 PM
The pump was indeed bad. There was never any fuel that came out. At initial key on it never made a sound or moved anything, no fuel ever. So, it has been replaced. However as I said with all three connected to the new pump, the ignition is cut off and the pump runs without stopping. Are you trying to say that one only supplies 12V during key on for an instant and the other supplies 12V after that? Both of the hot leads supply 12V at key on and stay that way as best I can tell.
01-06-2009, 02:28 PM
you should use a test light to ring out the wires to find which one is a keyed hot.
01-06-2009, 02:33 PM
I am using a DMM between each of the "hot" and the ground. Both read virtually the same 12V at key on, but obviously not measured when the engine is running. (on edit: if I sound like a dick I apologize, I appreciate you taking the time to help me, thanks!)
01-06-2009, 04:59 PM
I think it's tied into the oil pressure sender.
The reason being that if there is no oil pressure [i.e. engine stopped] the pump automaticly is shut down.
If you are in a accident you don't have to worry about the pump sending fuel out non stop until the tank is dry :eek:
As Milt suggested though one line should be 12 V during intial ign "on" to prime engine.
I think other line should go 12 V as soon as it sees oil pressure in engine to indicate it's running.
On my lefty's... one + wire is for key-start and the other + wire is run from the alternator/regulator circuit, to keep it running. The ground for the pump is run through the ignitor.
01-09-2009, 04:56 PM
I thought I had a bad one also but that is actually the way they work. Squirts once when you turn the key on then stops. Once it is running it continues to pump. My seemed to be flooding and actually my main problem turned out to be the sparkplugs. It ran great once I changed those. I had some other issue that kind of went away by itself and I never did figure out what it was.
01-17-2009, 07:25 AM
I was having trouble with mine again and this time i took the outlet fuel line off and someone watched it while I cranked on the engine. as everyone stated when you turned on the key the pump made a very very short pump and the only that you could tell it was to have your finger on it, you also got a little spurt of gas not very much either. When cranking the gas poured a few seconds after the engine started rolling over. I found out that my problem is moister. and I do not know where. I dried out the cap and nothing. I took the truck home from the hunting camp and when I got to the house it cranked fine and every time since. but it is in the garage.
03-24-2010, 08:55 AM
My pump on an '89 Taiwanese 3G82 only has 2 wires. I can only imagine how puzzled I'd have been if I ran into this problem and hadn't read this thread.
I came here because I'm looking for tank info... time to start a new thread.
03-24-2010, 04:02 PM
My fuel pump as it turned out was not the problem. It was my distrubutor cap, it had a crack in it. new cap now cranks every time and no matter how much moistier is in the air. :
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