View Full Version : Super Charger Build
01-21-2010, 03:57 AM
Math was removed to minimize project discouragement.
93 Suzuki Carry DD51T...4WD, 40K, EL+5up, Diff Locker & ELock Hubs, 250lb AFCOs+5" Shackles, A/C, PWR Windows...
Interceptor1 Package...:cool: (http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?6489-Super-Charger-Build)
01-21-2010, 06:54 AM
Awesome post, Spaner!!! This will be fun! :pop:
01-21-2010, 08:05 AM
I'll be watching, closely:cool: Here's a smily eating some popcorn for you :pop:
01-21-2010, 08:36 AM
I have a headache now!:eek:
What affect will this boost pressure have on the Carb? 7psi boost is also about 1.5x on how much fuel you can shove in there too. Air/fuel ratios need to be regulated on gas engines (diesels dont care about that stuff, but gass'ers do). all the extra air w/ no extra fuel means you will run really lean and hot right?
I guess i figured you would also have to address getting more fuel into the mix here too. On a EFI system, its usually a ECU flash of some kind. Im not a carb guy tho so i dont know how it all works for a carb engine. new Carb jets er somthing?
I would also reccomend an intercooler to keep your thermals under control. Small vol intercooler for snappy power response, and a large vol intercooler for towing. The boost lag over the intercoooler is a function of the intercooler and piping volume. So you need to watch your "post boost" piping volume to tune the power response...
I bet you will set off your bbq light on the dash too ;)
On yet another note (sorry i keep thinking of stuff)... Non-asperated engines usually lower the compression to accomidate the extra forces exerted on the engine. Not entirely true if the engine is built from ground up w/ a turbo or super charger in mind, but most comanies slap on one an engine not designed for one, and to ensure no "kaboomage" the lower the compression ratio. your Zuki is alreay over 10:1 which is already considered high compression. I would change out rings and drop compression.... (if i knew what i was doing, which i dont).
01-22-2010, 04:00 PM
Way back when I was fitting the charger into the very small space in between the manifold intake mount and the carb, I had to adjust the clearance for the drive belt, truck frame, and engine block. Very tight all around.
This was all done by eye, a 2' strait edge and a lazer alignment tool.
I was able to get two mounting plates ruffed out of some 1/8" 316. One for the intake-to-charger and one for the charger-to-carburetor.
Problem being that the original mounting bolts (intake-carb) ran across the sealing surfaces of the charger in a back-to-back "mirror-like" configuration. How can you seal a pressure vessel when the sealing surface runs across the top of a bolt head and the mounting surface needs to be adjustable; to finalize angle and height of the unit?
These are the kinds of problems that I love. Something that a "professional" would say is imposible. This is how it was done.
The 1/8" mounting plates were bolted with enlarged holes and standard bolts, having standard 1/4" (thickness) heads. A 1/4" thick flat rubber seal (with bolt head holes cut in it) was used to take up this differance like a sandwich and the charger was mounted on top of that.
So you have a flat surface, mount a 1/8" plate, two bolt heads sticking out, a 1/4" flat rubber seal, with two holes in the rubber, for the bolt heads, charger onto that.:pop:
Fine alignment adjustments were made and everything was "locked down".
Run-up tests were done, but of cource, you can't have a final mounting with 1/8" plate supporting a 20lb supercharger and a carburator, all under "drive belt tention" and running at 7TRPM. So, things were "reverced".
A "pattern" was made by spraypainting the outside of the seals and everything was dissasembled and "mapped" as to its' final positions.
Finalized mounting plates were ordered using "mapped" locations and counter-sunk bolts into 1/4" 304. "cap-heads".
This allows the use of 1/4" plate and 1/8" seal; inplace of the 1/8" plate and the 1/4" seal. A better mount and a better seal, in a finalized location for both the charger-to-intake as well as the charger-to-carburator while positioning everything into the same locations...1/8" + 1/4"...:sly:
Clear as mud?
Probably not, I think it's easier to perform a miracle, than it is to explain it.
01-23-2010, 12:06 AM
At least o8K is giving his knowledge on the subject...
An artist, sees a photograph in his head and is not satisfied untill the canvus he is working on represents his ideal image. A builder sees a blueprint in his head and is not satisfied until it comes to life. ;)
01-24-2010, 09:27 PM
Just a word on intercooling (if you plan to .. it appears you don't) you can't on a suck through system as the cooled mixture will condense in the intercooler and Kablooie...I'm liking the thread but unfortunately have little hard knowledge in the mods you are interested in...If you need wrenching help tho..I would be more than happy to assist...i can even throw snow on you if you catch fire!:p
01-24-2010, 10:13 PM
I wouldn't do a suck through either (intercooled or not), the plumbing is going to be much to long for the fuel to stay suspended. Unless you bolt the huffer right to the intake manifold I would just save yourself some grief and do a turbo setup.
You can make WAY more low rpm torque with a turbo than a supercharger, true the positive displacement ones are much better than a cetrifical, turbos just do it better. They also will make your mileage go up instead of down. A properly designed turbo system can make an engine run at 100% VE at light cruise, something an NA motor can't and a supercharged motor can only dream of.
If you are craving instant throttle response, go super, if you can wait a whole second for the turbo to spool up you will end up with a much more efficient package that will bury a supercharge's torque graph.
01-25-2010, 01:22 AM
Make no mistake though, this mod will be done, wrenches will be turned..
RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY...I'll have to look that up again:cool:
01-25-2010, 01:28 AM
redneck torque wrench??/ tighten till it strips and back off a 1/4 turn...turn on google translate and heres a whole ton of sambar maint. articles... might be some useful stuff for ya
01-25-2010, 01:13 PM
Buddy increasing his boost on an AMR 500 with a direct install 80% pulley & belt.
I didn't even consider searching jp blogs, found my first Sambar engine bay pic in no time flat. Lots of project links too!
Thanks Fupabox :D
01-25-2010, 01:36 PM
Quite welcome Spaner......Anyone interested in the way to find a lot of the japanese stuff is to go to google..install google toolbar and enable auto translate ..then click more beside the video/images/web etc...click translate..translated search..japanese to english..then search away...make note of the japanese words used for the vehicle you are searching and write em down..minitrucks can be referred to as light tigers and for example there are about 10 ways to spell hijet depending on the model ... haizzettarukku for hijet truck,different for jumbo cab,van etc...search those words as well...tons of stuff but the translations are at times completely undeciperable,:(:(still fun tho:p
01-25-2010, 04:53 PM
Plus I've found that Sambar often is Samber. Lots of things in Youtube also once you start digging in the Japanese threads. For instance, there are lots of exhausts posts on Youtube apparently featuring Sambars. :)
01-27-2010, 04:47 AM
The popular prediction is that 7 psi of boost pressure adds 48% PWR: (14.7 + 7) ÷ 14.7 = 1.476.
Actually, 7 psi is perhaps 80% efficient; the engine receives about 5.6 psi in terms of density.
Compared to a large carburetor pulling .75 psi of vacuum at WOT, it’s worth about 21% more power.
Compared to a small carburetor with 2 psi vacuum at full throttle perhaps 26% more power.
For a better but still approximate estimate of boost vs. power, the first few pounds of boost is about 85-95% efficient,
which tapers off to 50% by 15 psi. Multiply the boost pressure by the efficiency to get the relative density index.
Now estimate the full throttle vacuum of the carbureted system in normally aspirated mode.
HP+: horsepower increase
ATM: atmospheric pressure
D: relative density index (boost pressure × efficiency)
V: full throttle vacuum, normally aspirated (typically between .75 psi and 3 psi), then:
HP+ = ((ATM + D) ÷ (ATM - V))^.5
HP+ = ((14.7+(7x0.8))÷(14.7- 1.5))^.5
HP+ = 1.24 or 24% increase
HP = INC X NA HP
HP = 1.24 x 47HP
HP = 58.29
Low pwr TORQUE is what we are after...HP at low RPMs and successive gear ratios...
Why not a turbocharger?
Very few turbos are small enough to work on 660cc engines (exceptions include IHI for Subaru, Geo Sprint, T15, etc.)
A turbo is not “free power” from the exhaust - the exhaust load is higher than NA (normally aspirated) under all
conditions, which means more heat and pumping loss....
[superchargers do consume more power, but also have a slight cooling effect under boost]
[most superchargers have an internal lubrication system, or sealed bearings].
[the stock exhaust works fairly well on a supercharged application]
The TURBO installation is much more difficult:
Without a bypass system and a small (restrictive) turbine housing there is no boost at low RPM.
The entire exhaust system must be gas-tight (exhaust pressure = boost pressure × 2) from the port down.
The exhaust system must be re-routed away from the engine, fuel, rider etc.
With few exceptions they need pressure oil, and oil return which means either a separate pump
and sump, or a position higher than the existing oil tank.
Sizing of the entire turbo, compressor trim, turbine housing size and A/R ratio are far more critical
than any supercharger. A mistake (no boost, low boost, overheating, too much boost) cannot be
cured by adjustment but by replacing expensive parts - perhaps several times......
Most supercharger adjustments only require a single pulley change.
MINIBRUTES SHOUT OUT....
I know you are the most knowledgeble member on this site when it comes to the Carry CARBs...
How can we best INCREASE the mixture, ON-DEMAND, from these little gizzmos?
1, ACCESSORY DRIVE, my understanding is that this is a throttle INCREASE and has no affect on MIXTURE...
2, ACCELORATOR PUMP, will increase mixture at WOT, but maybe difficult to control affectivly, on demand...
3, CHOKE/TEMP system, will increase mixture..indirectly with restrictive meetering, but may be controlabe...through
a ratio type system of BOOST vs VACUUME.....?
Please give us your thoughts....
Fupabox's INTELAJET find may be the work-around solution here...:rolleyes:
DETONATION CAN BE CONTROLLED WITH....
Lowering compretion ratio with a secondary head gasget and....
Retartation of the timing by 10-25 degrees and....
Replacement to lower temp plugs (AUTO-LIGHT) and an increase in gap- 40 degree gap and....
Increase in fuel octain - up to 100LL (aviation fuel)....
A complete BOLT-ON system is possible and will be effective with consideration of the minutia involved.
01-27-2010, 06:07 PM
What ever you do, do NOT stack head gaskets to lower compression, bad idea. The first time you rattle the motor (and you will) the gaskets will distort and at best start to give you detination issues that will drive you nuts because you will do everything to cure it and it won't go away or at worst squirm out and give you a huge coolant and/or compression leak. You should also tighten your spark plug gap. Forget AV gas, it's crap, I played with it for a while and it's not ment to run right below 5000 to 10000 feet altitude. Tolulene and ethanol works REALLY well, I can run 24 psi of boost in my GTR with 32 deg. of timing with only a 20% mix of Tolulene and Mohawk 94, makes 650hp at the crank.
You should re-research turbos, most of your assumptions/findings are old and antiquated. Turbos are BETTER than free power, they feed into themselves, produce much less heat in compressing the air as a pos. displacement supercharger and don't add stress and vibration to the snout of the crank. A few people have snapped crank snouts off motors that have a dia 3 times bigger than what these motors have with supers only twice as big as what you want to use.
I don't want to come across as a poo-pooer and think the project is really quite neat, I just want you to see it from all angles with the right info.
Anyone heard of a VGT on a carburated engine? :D. Suppose a vacuum soilinoid might do...
01-27-2010, 08:55 PM
Very nice guys...:pop:
All is well Jon, just what I wanted, some of your technical experties...
I am trying to get a blanket coverage of information on the subject and I've been posting some nuggets on the way...
I want to eventually be able to post a complete system that the average jo can bolt on in the back yard to get a 50% gain in low RPM torque..
Don't worry, I still have some ACEs up my sleave, if required...
I've even considered a water-meth injection system...:cool:
But I don't think that we are there yet.. :D
Convert it to a 6-stroke! But if you do the water thing.... Just try to avoid Hydrolock um-k :D and if you cant avoid... Take pictures :D
01-29-2010, 04:18 AM
Thats the spirit,
good old ingenuity. We have plenty of Subaru superchargers laying around, might have to get on the band wagon (once it warms up here in Japan). Carburater may be a bit tough as altitude for some people may be an issue. Going with an EFI solution may be easier as the computer can compensate ignition timing during boost with a proper MAF sensor or density monitor.
01-29-2010, 07:37 AM
EFI would be premo but can be a pain and expensive.
I HAVE an F5A Supercharged being rebuilt right now. I will have to look closer at the setup when I get it back. I dont think there is anything special for enrichment.
It is a pull-through OEM setup. No intercooling. This 550 should be good for about 55hp. 10 more or so than a 660 NA and yes, about 50% over a regular 550.
If Don will sell some of his blowers for cheap, that would be a good route. Its already the proper size for the most part.
Just set your fuel for WOT and only drive pedal to the metal ;)
If I had to guess, I bet its set up a little rich at idle. It ran good before we tore it down, but the head was so pitted and corroded that I decided to get a different one. A little tough to find a good supercharged F5A head.....
The engine is still in Asia. I picked it up when I was there in October. I think its actually done now. Just need to have it shipped.
01-29-2010, 07:46 AM
To lower the compression, Alto Works pistons are dished. Or, you could machine the top of the pistons a tad if there is enough material.
01-29-2010, 03:19 PM
Thanks for chiming in there guys:pop:
Yes compression can be lowered by various means, but I don't think that it would be necessary; considering the factory SC model of the F6A and the Practical BOOST level...
The mixture enrichment, I had hoped that Minibrutes would confirm, but it can be controled with the choke system on the NA systems....
For gasoline fuel, the stoichiometric air/fuel mixture is approximately 14.7 times the mass of air to fuel. Any mixture less than 14.7 to 1 is considered to be a rich mixture, any more than 14.7 to 1 is a lean mixture - given perfect (ideal) "test" fuel (gasoline consisting of solely n-heptane and iso-octane).
An "ON-DEMAND" system may be controlled by vacuume activation through relays to control BOTH a clutch belt drive and an enrichment/choke combination. Giving FULL Practical BOOST at all RPMs...and the applicable torque increase in all gear ratios.
BASE LINE mixture, can be set via the stock mixture setting, RICH; around 10-11; at idle, and low vacuume operations, and the BOOST mixture would run slightly LEAN; around 16; for PWR and torque requirments, considering a choke control system.
You have to email me back buddy..
The availability of the replacement stock A/C clutch pulley is the deciding factor, for the use of the AMR300; or better yet, the AMR 500...
It can be machined for mating on the unit, but the vacuume controled system cannot work with a direct drive system.....
Do you want these guys to go with a bolt on system, or a turbo suzuki sprint replacement?...:eek:
01-29-2010, 06:16 PM
Sorry, been working on some Mitsubishi Jeep projects lately and haven’t had time to look for the 4” AC pulley ( Must be a few hundred laying around the shop…LOL).
Yes, the electric clutch from an AC compressor is the way to go. I will still go with the EFI and not carbureted engines. The Subaru supercharger output duct is easy to modify.
1. Subaru supercharger
2. AC Pulley
3. Any EFI Engine
You will also need to increase your tailpipe size. I learned this trick from James (Mega gearhead) Just increasing the tailpipe size a 1/2” puts out another 12lbs of torque at 4500rpm. Since we have a ton of superchargers and turbo’s here I guess I have no excuse but to start building one of these too….
01-29-2010, 08:50 PM
If I read your post right on the fuel mixtures, you've got it backwards. You want to be between 11 and 12 AFR under boost and 16 while under light cruise. Idle usually likes just north of 14.7. With a super charger you also want to make sure you don't go richer than 11to1 as it will shorten the life of the unit faster than it would with a turbo. Fuel contamination in the super's lube system is easier to do.
You know, you could always go with propane, there are mixers that have more than enough capacity, you won't contaminate anything if you go too rich and it has an octane rating in the neibourhood of 105 pon (110 ron in Jap-speak). The missinformed stories of reduced power and milage are just not true (there is a slight loss of milage, but power....not a chance). When propane was huge in Canada back in the '90s, I took cars and trucks that had systems on them and gave back the power and milage that was lost while I was working at a local speed shop. Companies would put the systems on but not really tune for the fuel, or at least not nearly as agressively as they should have. With the octane rating you can really push the envelope and have no ill side affects.
I may just skip the FI and just do propane or turbo/propane once I get my mini (it's on it's way.....yay!). A small system like that for a carbed engine should only be about $1500, ditch the spare with the gas tank and you could stuff a set of manifold LPG tanks in there 40% larger than the orig. gas tank to give you more range. Another side benefit is engine longevity, you can get diesel like km's out of a propane engine. A crew transport van that I ride in to travel from Vancouver to Boston Bar was just taken off the road because the chassis was too far gone, it had 976000 km on it, the engine had never even had the valve covers off of it and used no oil, ran like a champ. Propane is about 45 cents a litre here.
01-30-2010, 12:19 AM
If you want to go propane most mini trucks & vans could be ordered with it. Easy to do on the old Mitsubishi's and Subaru's. Fun to play with....
01-30-2010, 07:49 PM
For what it is worth, I was here in Japan in the early 90's when the grass roots forced induction craze was going on. We turbo'ed several vehicles, and the process was nearly always the same.
For starters, the compression must be reduced considerably.. we were lucky, as the race shops here offered larger metal style head gaskets up to 2mm thick (which was the standard we used, since most stock units measured in at 1mm or slightly under).
On carberated cars, we had a carb guru who could modify the jets properly on the stock unit, or Mikuni sidedrafts (which we used in a 400hp 240Z turbo car). Another option was draw thru, with carb mounted on compressor inlet (negating any intercooler). Yet another was "boxing" a carb, which allowed for the proper function, but gave more design headaches.
EFI vehicles got treated to a larger fuel pump, and an Additional Injector Controller (AIC) like this model..
The older models had a stand alone boost sensor which plugged into the intake plenum, which sent the signal to the controller. More boost=more fuel.
The only thing on the factory setup after that we modified was the MAP sensor had to have a one way valve attached to it to avoid it seeing any boost (it took offense to boost). Any boost going to it was bled off, and it would see only vacuum.
Nowadays, everyone here seems to run aftermarket controller systems like SDS and Haltech.
04-06-2010, 12:06 AM
You guys are no fun...:(
I'm going to start a new game while I wait for my AMR 500..
It's called NAME THAT PART
1) has to be related to the thread
2) you have to know what it is and how it is (or could be) used
3) you have to know where it came from or how to get one
I get to start
04-07-2010, 12:53 AM
OK, maybe that one was too hard.
That is a MIKUNI mechanical pump and variable control injector.
The integral pump drives off the engine to increase output as the RPMs increase.
The cam is lever controled and runs from 120:1 to 20:1, adjustable from the throttle. (TPS for you EFI guys ;))
Came off of a 1975 SUZUKI RV90 autolube system; keepen it in the family :cool:
I talked to a few "expert" venders about a solution to machanically control mixture and or occtane level under boost VS normal driving conditions and they said that "this does not exist; you have to go with EFI for proper control"
OK, what ever...I got it and all related parts for FREE BTW
Chommon this next one is easy...
04-07-2010, 06:17 AM
This is fun.:pop:
04-07-2010, 06:31 AM
Labels on the pics sometimes give it away. :)
04-09-2010, 12:45 AM
:pop: AMR 500 is IN; thanks Gordon, very nice customer service..and daddy does like NEW, from the factory...
Electric control engagement, choke enrichment, occtaine 104 injection...
Altinator crank pully drive; 4 1/4 VS 2 3/4 A/C....0.5LAMR VS 1L M62...
That..that's all folks..:cool:
04-12-2010, 02:43 AM
Ho, she fits sooo...good...
Removed the altinator...bottom mount 2-3/4"..shaved the SC mount to fit (1/4")..NICE
Belt algnment is good. Intake piping 2.5"; carb placement..NICE, just over the AC pump body..driver's seat clears.. alignment is just parallel to the center shift cover...nice pulley distance from the crank....engine rotation and charger mass air flow correct....
Just one problem...the SC is UPSIDE DOWN...the gear box lube fill port is on the TOP..
Is it OK to mount a super charger upside down? :eek:
04-12-2010, 06:42 AM
Is it OK to mount a super charger upside down? :eek:
According to this (http://www.gadgetonline.com/SuperNose.htm) it appears to be ok.
04-13-2010, 07:47 PM
Yea, I've been looking around and there is not a lot of written material about it. Orientation seems to be an after thought, and I end up searching pics and finding just about every orientation possible for the ASIN, custom and factory...
04-15-2010, 06:47 PM
Some day it will be done but I keep getting new ideas and finding new gizmos to include, and when It's done, It's over..:(
Just too much fun...
If anyone has any knowledge of clutch pulleys, that's kind of bogging me down right now and I'd like to move on...
04-21-2010, 12:56 AM
Here I am, working like craze to come up with an original idea, using the MAD MAX (custom) configuration for my build....
and I come across this...
Never underestimmate the greed of the venders...the work is done for you...
Execept, mine is going to have a custom snout..:cool:..so I can bolt it right to the huffer...:D..and get a "DIRECT" system-off, suck through..
I guess I won't bother posting any clutch pulley or snout configuration specs, as anyone can just order a clutched charger direct...
N.B>>>go with the 6 Ribbed serp belt;; coeficent of friction...;)
04-21-2010, 01:27 AM
ribbed for your pleasure or hers ??;) get cracking I wanna see that sucker scream:)
04-21-2010, 01:34 AM
CALM DOWN, calm down.....
It WILL look something LIKE THIS...
04-21-2010, 02:23 AM
That's an ELECTRIC MOTOR DRIVE by the way...:eek:..:eek:....
The Aussies have a wierd sense of humour...
Most clutch pulley manufacturer's recommend a DIFFERENTIAL RPM.. of 3500 RPM...depending, specificaly, on RUBBER STOPS, to take up the BUMP...:pop:
The pulley will SPIN, in all operational configurations; just at different RPMs...
PWR-OFF engine RPM(vacuum) VS PWR-ON ratio drive(forced induction)
It's a fake...:eek:
These are not...
04-30-2010, 12:48 AM
So, I have decided to go all out on the custom aspect of this build...
Cost is no longer a consideration, and I want to flex my mechanical and design IQ using any means necessary to achieve what I consider to be my ideal design for the application...I had wanted to keep the cost down, and the application simplified for the "back yard guys" but, this is MY design, and I want to do it right; if YOU can keep up, GREAT!!!!
Firstly, is the SNOUT design for the AMR 500, I have a few requirements for the application...
1) To align the belt drive TO the crank pulley drive, with consideration to the position of the intake plenum. A direct intake plenum bolt ON; with belt alignment.
2) A large drive shaft and clutch plate/pulley, in consideration of inertial acceleration and the coeficient of friction , as well as a six ribbed serpt belt for drive integrety.
3) Inclusion of rubber mounts on the clutch plate to take up the "BUMP"; possible RPM differential of +3500RPM.
4) Drive shaft integration, 17mm on the AMR 500; VERY unusual.
The A/C unit that I have decided upon meets ALL of these requirements...
Junk yard pull>>96 mercury mystique>>$50.00......See manufacturer pics below...
Meets ALL of my requirements, but most importantly, has a 17mm mid mount drive shaft that CAN be directly mated to the AMR 500...
Shaft coupling for 17mm was not easy, contacted the industry standard manufacturer directly, as they have standard applications of 16mm or 20mm, custom milling for 17mm from 16mm was possible however, they could not sell it to me due to retail contracts etc.; gave me contact for wholeseller in Canada, who could ALSO NOT sell it to me directly, gave me contact for retailer in my area that COULD order the custom part for me. Price VS MSRP>>100% mark up.
BUT, cost is no longer a factor; custom shaft coupling is enroute...
Base plate mounting surface, stainless steel, CNC milling, is also "UNDER CONSTRUCTION"...
A lot of work for a 50% gain in PWR/Tourque; but it IS POSSIBLE and can be done...
05-04-2010, 04:47 AM
Now THAT, was fun...
Let's see what the CNC can make of it...
Sorry about the quality guys, the upload space is pitifull, I have to shrink my stuff to pin size...:(
05-09-2010, 03:15 AM
I remember this stuff from back in my college days, too much error in the system>>>ghosts in the machine...
When you get down to .001mm and or thou of an inch in a design to run a program on a cnc machine or a flow jet with tol of o.ooo8mm production capability, things get a little sketchy...corrosion of the material...previous line production errors; the math does not always measure the dimensions of the part....and the law of cosines, is just a theory...
Got a friend's laser measuring equipment out to scan my old parts and found that my micrometer was OUT by a full degree for the mounting points on the clutch pulley mount. Much appreciated before the plate construction...
Could have been an error that would have reduced the life of the bearings in the construction. 0 bearing back lash on the 17mm shaft coupling and Axel heat extension (4TRPM differential, manufacturer recommendation) of .06mm due to the thermal operating range.
BTB, my local machine shop refused to use the cnc for the project as not cost effective for a one-off, they wanted to do it by hand, on the indexing machine, tolerance, man hours, not sure they said..."It's by the hour"...
Allcut inc in Kitchener now has the design specs, waiting to hear back...
05-11-2010, 11:22 PM
Download the free software, design your own part while sippen in the back yard:cool:
Set you tol, chose material, very powerfull program..
Then, place your order..and wait for it to come in the mail...:pop:
What could be easier?
05-21-2010, 12:37 PM
What could be easier?
Making it on my CNC machine. :cool:
05-23-2010, 10:52 PM
I hope you're interested in trying it out Don.
I'd really like to see an AMR 300 with a mini truck A/C clutch pulley, compact and cool.
My extension is going to be about 7" total off the face, from the intake center line to the crank but that includes a six rib serp, I think you could get away with the four on the 300 and shorten things up a little.
06-03-2010, 11:02 PM
Prefection is not only expensive but time consuming.
Custom stuff doesn't happen fast and my head is starting to hert.
Try talking to a linear actuation design engineer and a Grainger counter service person on the same day. 100 point IQ spread and you have to be fluent in Boss. MIT and Nuffie. :sly:
Still only 2/3 of my components have come in.:(
But it will be done, and then I'm going fishing...
06-22-2010, 12:04 AM
I AM having a lot of FUN with this project but my vendors are starting to lag. Parts are starting to come in but, I still can't believe that a machine shop can justify a three week lead time for a 90 minute milling job. :confused:
The construction will be over designed as I'm sure that it will see more applications over it's 100,000 mile life time.
I can't wait to get the unit installed but perfection takes time and I'm willing to wait for the promised performance.
I plan on taping some before and after road trials with a "clean" truck and pulling package to be posted, if we end up getting some kind of mini truck channel in the future.
As I've previously posted, no one has to build a custom unit, as a clutched unit can be sourced from Japan. I just wanted to build mine to fit the DD51T perfectly. :cool:
Water meth or octane boost, I still haven't decided what I will be pumping...
Design is the dream of the child, application, that of the man...
06-22-2010, 06:56 AM
I'm still watching...and waiting... :D
06-23-2010, 08:21 PM
Thanks for the Hype Greg, I know I've left a few guys behind but I'm really not trying to get all MIT complicated and shi*, I've just gotten bogged down in the finer details and precision of the clutch aspect of this project; finally getting to use the college degree to some practical use.
I REALLY DON'T WANT TO DISCOURAGE ANYONE FROM THE SUPERCHARGER OPTION.
You CAN order a clutched unit, and plumb it with 8 or 9 inches of tubing and get the same result.
It's just that I've gotten into the land of the flee, and I am mesmorized by the quality of the custom designed parts that can be had. Anything IS possible, and I am flexing my muscles.
Can you appreciate the fact that I can "BLOW" on this END/ALIGNMENT bearing, and it WILL "FALL" into place?
06-23-2010, 11:28 PM
The ford falcon, the dream, perfect....
but still the fantacy, the fake...
To build so close to perfection, and fall short...PAIN...SORROW...
American muscle, YES, SUPERCHARGED?....No...
06-24-2010, 01:12 AM
Project Toyota Celica Part III
Bolt-On Boost--Blitz Supercharger
From the February, 2009 issue of Turbo & High-Tech Performance
The ECU is also responsible for activating the clutch that puts the supercharger to work. Fuel economy is not dramatically affected under cruising conditions since the clutch to the supercharger is left idle and not drawing a load on the pulley system.
Making horsepower is simple right? Slap on an air filter, exhaust and header system and gain 20 hp, right? Well, not really. That may have been true a decade ago when manufacturers still used cast-iron headers and crimp-bent exhaust systems to lower production costs.
Today trying to squeeze extra horses from a late-model import engine can be a bit more challenging. Installing an aftermarket exhaust, header and filter might gain only 10 hp and that is if you're lucky. Many vehicles rolling off the production line already incorporate a tubular header system and mandrel-bent exhaust, laying down a major challenge to the aftermarket. For instance, we squeezed an additional 8.2 hp out of Project Celica by adding a Veilside titanium exhaust and an Injen cold-air intake.
Beyond the simple exhaust and air filter bolt-on, finding performance products for the current-generation Celica ('00 and up) is not an easy proposition. Fortun
06-29-2010, 10:48 PM
And that's all I have to say about that...
I can't understand a thing your talking about, but the pictures are cool =).
07-05-2010, 02:44 AM
Thats cool :pop:
Smoking dube^^^^; see me you can. Sometimes I can't understand what I'm talking about ether..:sly:
I just finished some bench testing on my mikuni pump with various 12v motors.
Don't want it to run full time of cource; just under boost.
I can't seem to get more than 4cc per minute max out of it running 49/51 water meth; I was counting on 9 to meet the 10% street mix recomendation. I think I'm going to end up using the choke enrichment as well.
About 10 points up on octain and 10% enrichment. Should be enough to beat out the rattle and drum but thats about as far as I can go before actually bolting it on.
Once I get the pump and electric motor drive assembly together, mill up the main drive pully, source a tentioner, build a wiring harness.....:cool:....naw..this is all fun stuff...
MORE PICS TO COME!
Videos Too!....Are we there yet with the video thing? Can't we just get a site sponsored youtube account?
07-08-2010, 11:11 PM
So let's go...
And @ a 10% mix of water meth;
10cc/minute @ 5800RPM or 3/4 WOT
And 0.17cc/minute @ 1000 RPM or 0 WOT
0.17cc/second @ 5800RPM or 3/4 WOT
And 0.003cc/second @ 1000 RPM or 0 WOT
The question here is, what oreface can atomize at 0.17cc/second?
Let's look at it another way;
0.17ml= 170 cubic milimeters
So, what oraface can atomize 170 cubic milimeters per second?
Don't laugh, this is the proper mix, and I have located an electric motor that will drive the mukuni to produce 10cc/minute at WOT; bench testing is complete.
07-08-2010, 11:32 PM
Having such a small motor means a VERY small amount of attomized water meth to be introduced into the intake air stream. It is variable, controlled by the mukuni pump but, you can not tell the difference visually. Even at MAX output, there is a very nice attomization profile bye eye, but my shutter speed is not fast enough to capture it and it SHOWES as dropletts.
Here is the solution that I have come up with for a 2.8 cubic milimeter instantanious injection with a pumpspeed at 60 herts. (170 cubic milimeters/second)
Pics you have asked for, enjoy...
In the world of the flee, speed determines the winner...
08-03-2010, 09:36 PM
Finishied the cluster...
Yea, It's just dim and bright, but It's the logic control system integration that makes it cool :cool:
08-04-2010, 01:35 AM
With over 3200 hits, there's got to be an electrical engineer with a BA in logic circuits sniffing around in here. I have placed an obvious circuit error in the system, just for fun.
Sign in and speak up, check out my work..and thanks in advance..
Cuz, yea my head herts from thinking about it..
08-04-2010, 04:46 AM
I'll take a crack at it...from what I can see on my 10 inch netbook at work (a poor excuse but I may need one:)) it appears the issue is in the relay circuit for the high /low light control on the glowshift gauge
08-07-2010, 01:40 AM
Been letting you sweat buddy...:D
But your comments are ALWAYS welcomed...
The system Will work, just not like in the move....:eek:
And that IS the goal...for this thread, anyway...
I think that I may have tricked you with the switchable negative on the "blue" light...remember the stereo instalations with the ground that changed to a positive, and blew everyone's fuses?... let me explain...
Under regular Idel condition, and "system armed" the "blue" light will be ON, as it will see 12v on the top side, and a "ground" from the bottom side; the M relay...this is a 5 point relay, giving central control, upper (Vac-negative) and lower(Petal-to-the-metal-Atm-positive); under activation; of an atmospheric condition.
So, under vacumme, the blue light will see 12v at the top and a ground at the bottom; dropping 12v of potential OVER the light; it is ON....
....."Peddel to the metal"..... there is no vacumme, and the "blue light" will see 12v at the top AND 12v at the bottom, and so has no voltaic potential to drop and will not "light-up"; even though there is pwr on both sides....but has NO ground...this allows elimination of several relays....
I know, it's a logic system, and that is why my head hertz...hertz:cool:
08-07-2010, 10:46 AM
Grrrrrr:mad::p That puts MY logic circuits back to default....vacuum=snickers.... no vacuum=Cheetos...:D
08-13-2010, 11:56 PM
Hey Spaner, you are one mad bastard!
I have read though most of your thread, lots of in-depth info. I to am building a S/C engine, but 650cc aircooled using the AMR300 s/c
My opinion may be to late and I see you are now using an AMR500 s/c, but I think you have overcomplicated your math and your initial Supercharger choice, M62, seems way off.
All other mods for my truck depend on torque, so the next mod for my project truck has become the SUPERCHARGER mod.
I am setting out the calculations needed for a 660cc engine and specifically for my DD51T with A/C in the steps below.
MATH TREE.............................................. .................................................. ..
FIRST CALCULATION (Engine Litres/min @ 0 Psi )
Multiply engine capacity (in litres) times maximum engine Rpm. E.g. 0.66 litres x 7200 rpm = 4752 litres/minute.
Divide this figure by two as engine only fills every second stroke. (4752/2 = 2376 litres/min.
This is the engines' air requirements in litres/minute at 0 Psi boost and max RPM.
<< 0.660*7200/2= 2376L/M @ 7200RPM >> This provides a working Platform @ max RPM
SECOND CALCULATION (boost ratio)
Add the boost pressure desired (7 Psi) for the engine to 14.7 Psi (atmospheric pressure).
(7 psi boost desired +14.7 =21.7 psi)
Divide this answer by 14.7 and this gives the boost pressure ratio.
(21.7/14.7=1.4761904) This is the boost pressure ratio above atmospheric pressure.
<< 1.4761904 >>
THIRD CALCULATION (Actual air requirements @ desired boost)
Multiply the boost ratio by the litres/minute obtained for 0 Psi and we get the actual air requirements in Litres/min for the engine at that boost. So, 2376 litres/min X 1.4761904 = 3507.4283 litres/min
for 7Psi boost.
<< 3507.4283 L/M >>
FOURTH CALCULATION (Supercharger rotor speed)
Divide the desired air flow (3507.4283 L/min) by the swept volume of the supercharger. This will tell us the maximum speed the supercharger rotors must spin at to produce the volume required.
3507.4283/1.0 litres = 3507.4283 rpm for the Eaton M62 (1/3 The max safe speed of the Eaton M62 and the reason for the following 70% EV VS the 76% EV from the manufacturer--Very safe, low operating temps and long SC life)
FIFTH CALCULATION (Pulley size ratio)
Divide the rotor Rpm by maximum desired engine rpm to get the drive ratio of the pulleys.
<<3507.4283/7200 rpm = 0.4871428
This means that the Eaton M62 must spin @ 49% of engine speed to produce 7PSI of theoretical boost.
Using 0.7 EV, or 70% volumetric efficiency; 0.4871428/0.7
This means that the Eaton M62 must spin @ 70% of engine speed to produce 7PSI of actual boost.
Using the existing A/C crank pulley of 2 3/4 " for the drive...
Or, the same size as the 4" A/C compressor clutch pulley....
A coincidence? I don't think so, I've reverse engineered this a few times and have looked at many different chargers and their displacements as well as their accessories and availability.
Cam lobe characteristics will play a leading role in determining boost pressure after the blowers drive ratio has been selected.
Harry Pyle´s Calculation Scheme on Superchargers
Firstly to Calculate "Pulley Ratio" (PR)
PR = C(14.7+B+I)/14.7xV
= Crankshaft pulley Diam
= Crank RPM/blower RPM
C = 1/2 Engine capacity in cc.
B = boost in p.s.i.
V = blower volume in cc.
I = Allowance for valve overlap (ie for every 10 degrees on o'lap allow 5% of the boost. eg for 35 degrees, I = 3.5 x 0.05 x B ).
I don't know why you are calculating VE into the drive ratio, or why your crank pulley is smaller than your S/C pulley:confused:
In my limited experience with S/C they should never be under-driven (turned slower than the engine) all that means is your Supercharger is poorly matched to your engine. The Eaton M62 is designed for 2.5L to 4.0L engines, that is 3.8-6 times larger than you need:confused: Meaning it will be turning so slowly that a huge amount of air will be escaping through it's tolerances, well out of it's range of efficiency. Also consider how much more HP is required to turn these larger blowers.
I'm a stuntman not an engineer so I really have nfi what I am talking about;) For real incite get "Forced Induction Performance tuning" by Graham Bell, simple, clear, concise.
Anyway, did you ever get an answer to what diameter is the crank pulley on the S/C Subaru EN07?
08-14-2010, 11:47 PM
Harley, sooo, many questions in one post, I don't know where to start..
Thanks, by the way, for the crazy bastard, (buku dicki-die)..I been posting more and more in depth information as I go along in my own search for knowledge, getting more outlandish, I know:D..just daring someone to call me a crazy bastard on this thread LMAO..:D I thought for sure someone would post something about my purfume atomizer....but, nothing..mcgyver or what..
I enjoy incorporating every-day components into machanical systems that they were not intentionally designed for, that's the best.
The M62 was not a great choice for the application, but considering availability and oem clutch drive, at the time, it was one of the best.
Underdriven, yes, hence the 70% V.E. as you say, "blow-by" in the underdriven charger. Which is not always a bad thing, as long as it is understood and compensated for. Spool and unspool time VS boost pressure on a clutched system. More turbo like and less "bumpy", as long as the max boost has been calculated properlly using V.E. :eek:
Driven HP requirements, IMHO, are too small to even be considered in a practical application. You only need to understand when they come into play. Acceleration of components and under boost pressure.
Consider a clutched charger that is being driven under engine vacuume in an idle constant speed condition. How much HP is required VS the non charger application.
Consider a non boost engine RPM acceleration condition. There is a little more HP required to accelerate the charger components, but not much, and the difference in the size of the charger means even less. A few ounces of mass more. The kinetic energy requirements are weighted on acceleration.
1/2 MV^2...lets not get into that, it means very little.
Under Boost is where the driven HP requirements come into play and it is also where HP is produced. The size of the charger may, depending on many factors, affect the HP gain negatively, I agree...but again under a HP generating condition it will be subtracted from the total that was gained. It makes little differance in a practical application. For dyno results, I agree that you will see a differance on the chart. Just talking off the cuff, lets say a vehicle goes from 0-60 in 10, we bolt on an arbitrary charger to produce 7psi and do 0-60 in 6.5; what I am saying is that the PERFECT charger for the system producing 7psi might get you down to 5.9....does it really matter. LOOK at the gain.
Build it light, and wind it tight, does not always serve the purpose of the end result.
I like your cam lobe over lap consideration calculations.:cool:
No info on the pully, but I have come across hi-res pics.
I look forward to reading your thread on the subject, I do hope you are planing to document your build.
09-02-2010, 01:46 AM
My buds who know my work, and are following this thread, I guess, are telling me that my work is starting to lag...
So It's time that I take it UP a knotch...
I'm going to go all out with the things that I have been dreaming about, to be included in to the preasent system as previosly described.
The HEADS-UP display, which I have had some previous experience with, and that I have previously posted in relation to the the tach mod, will now be fully integrated.
The LOGIC CONTROL system is now complete, and all of the integrated systems have been fully reserched. Components are IN, thanks to Active Surplus on Queen W in the big smoke. You guys have some nice stuff, at good prices, 30amp relays for $4.99 and connector harhnesses for $2.00, prices that can't be beat. Helped me out with the UV LEDs as well as the low voltage relays for $0.50. Low voltage resistors were free, spent two hours there, but would have been happy there all day, $65.00 for the entire build, wow...
NOW tell me that this is not.....A Hobby...
09-07-2010, 02:14 PM
Vacuum driven bench test, one shop vac, one laser RPM reader, one shop rag...490RPM...just about right...
09-08-2010, 03:12 AM
First problem that I have run into, the engine is tilted upwards 5deg...which I had not originally considered. My 1/2" clearance between the SC pully and the center mounting plate and seat, is gone. All things being equal, I think that the seat will have to be modified, to accomodate the differance.
09-27-2010, 07:24 PM
I hate not being able to work on my projects more,:mad:, an hour here, an hour there, life keeps getting in the way...12 hours in one go seems impossible...
She calls for my attention, and sometimes, I just can't give it to her.
10-02-2010, 09:22 PM
My muse, and goal....STILL, NOT LOV'EN POLICE...It's the D.R.E.
Finally, start-up and rev check....
SWEET charger sound, yea baby...:D
Although the charger clutch will engage for the start sequence under forced induction and atmosphic condition, momentarilly...
There IS enough "suck-by" on the outer side of the charger rotors to start the motor normally, "belt-free"....just enough...and as soon as it lights...the engine flow volume and speed, "spin-up" the charger INSTANTLLY..;)
She revs and spins "belt-free" just like normal, with a slight hesitation during engine acceleration and charger spool-up...
This won't be a problem once the drive belt is installed to boost on-demand, via the Honeywell sensor..:cool:
I do need some help though guys...
I took a lot of pre-disassembly photos of the area and thought that I could just RIP the vaccum lines etc. out, as I had thoroughly documented everything....and planned on replacing the old stock with new "food-grade" top of the line 1/8th clear...
Unfortunatlly, I never checked the photos, and they were over-exposed!:eek:
The flash was on AUTO, or something, and they are all useless...:frustration:
I can, and have guessed, to their proper locations, but am not sure, and I would very much like to eliminate any charger pain installation problems by eliminating this variable....
I would be very thankfull if someone with a DD51t, could take the time to provide me with some HIGH REZ shots of the related vacuum lines...
FROM-TO...everything from the carb, heat exchanger, aircleaner, intake-manifold....
Thanks guys...I promise, some wicked videos, hill climbing with diff-lock only, and my 11" wide...24" Titan 489s etc..;)
You won't be disapointed...
10-03-2010, 10:28 AM
we need some video!! need to hear that turbo whine!!
10-06-2010, 05:01 PM
Can't do the video thing yet Stuff. I have a G-Tec DDV-3810 and need some special codec for transfer format, videos won't play "off" of the unit, and I don't have a youtube account anyway...I was saving up for the mini truck channel, but haven't seen anything yet...my time and effort are being put into the unit...
I'm trying to set up the system just like it would be from the factory, and you have no idea how much work is involved....
Base-line carb acceleration, idle speed and mixture settings.....3.5 hr
I managed to "tune-out" the "belt-free" lag time; acccelerates like normal.
And "tuned-out" the engine deceleration-to-idle super charger inertial "bounce",
Via the throttle push-pull diafram. I had to adjust it so that it would "catch"
the decelerating super chager before it choked the engine, and yet, not accelerate
it back up to a high RPM Via the idel jet.
Now, it accelerates normally, and decelerates to idle normaly, with no "bounce".
No "audable" differance, but if you look at the back of the carb, controllers are
"flying" up and down. Four different adjustments to be put into sync to "catch"
the idle, at the right instant.
I did all of this prior to the belt and boost installation to eliminate base-line problems prior to boosting. It takes a lot of time for a one-off, but I could tell someone following, "this screew out 2r, and that screew in 3r"; 2 minutes to adjust it...
I still have to make 4 custom mounting brackets, to secure the front of the charger and,
mount the 6-ribbed idler, and "STACK" the A/C unit and altinator, change altinator V-belt over to the four rib and forward crank location...then extend all fluid lines, all electrical lines, custom mill the crank pully, install air fillter in the new location, install the super charger control harness, install boost gauge etc.
Also, from my investigation, and hands-on work with the carb, I can see that a restrictive-choke-mixture-increase is not the best solution to persue. I will be depending upon the water meth injection system for control under BOOST and need more time to complete the necessary adjustments.
Total time to completion: 100 man hrs............OF MECHANICAL FUN :D
Some day it will be done, but it looks like I will be throwing SNOW off of my 11" wide Titan 489s....
For those that have the least bit of interest, this is how I work; take it from the BRAIN, and put it into a SKETCH, don't be intimidated, cause I can't draw worth SHI*, can never get the angles right, but I can identifiy "MY" sketch with "MY" ideal image.
Then put it into CAD, so you can communicate with the machinist.....
And the part, comes to LIFE, installl....and thats all....
10-16-2010, 11:25 PM
I've been BOOSTING at 2 PSI with the V-belt on the crank; (3.5" diameter); for road trials, and the 12"-20" diameter factory tires won't even HOLD the road; they just smoke...
So, I'm looking at some 15" 205s by 5.5", JUST TO KEEP IT ON THE ROAD...
Yea, I don't have a LIFT...:sly:
I either get some bigger meats, or turn it off...
Yea, Yea....I got video...job-completion first; videos and fun after...
10-19-2010, 08:38 AM
we need some video!! need to hear that turbo whine!!
um... how do you get turbo whine from a super charger? :sly:
10-25-2010, 11:08 PM
Funny, that you should mention this, cause the makuni pump High-Speed Drive Motor, sounds, Just-Like, A Turbo Whine; combined, with the Super Charger, the sound is, Distinctive....Unique...
Actually, the Makuni pump spins, at such a high rate of speed, that I am considering adding 10% 2 cycle engine oil to my Water-Meth mix, just to keep it all under control; and WELL lubed. You are going to be SHOCKED, at what this MIX, actually is. Very obtainable, and very cheap. Way, cheaper than fuel...
Ethanol VS Methanol....a whino's dream...GO GREEN...
I thought that I had the meats put together, untill I figured out that FORD actually makes a 4 x 4 1/4; which is all wrong. The 205 X 60R 15", seem to be OK, but I'm still looking for some CHEAP rims @ 4 X 4 1/2...
I'm now at the point where every PART is now a CUSTOM part; and must be fitted precisely. The accesories have no room to be installed, and must be fitted, with consideration to the available space; which there is NONE.
So I had to modify the original accessory mount, and custom design, every part there after.... I'm just not willing to give up my A/C....and I had to go all out cause, it just wouldn't ALL fit.
I'm NOW looking at a one-to-one DRIVE ratio, on the Super Charger, which, should give me a MONSTER-LIKE-TURBO BOOST; 3PSI @ 3TRPM...to ...7PSI @ 7TRPM due to the V.E. As the engine RPM increases, so to, will the volumetric efficiency, increase, AND, the BOOST.
10-26-2010, 08:46 AM
Do, or do not. there is no try.
10-29-2010, 02:21 AM
Someone should make a supercharger with a CVT!
Patent pending. :)
10-29-2010, 03:59 AM
How about just buy a truck that already has a factory supercharger on it :rolleyes:
10-29-2010, 07:05 AM
That would be right up my alley, and I'm totally interested.
I'd grab the components off of a "micro" "kiddy's" 50cc snowmobile.
Or, you could use the same concept to drive a main cooling fan on somthing large like a freight liner...fuel savings application.
I can also see some applications for the aftermarket Hybrid market; dynamic braking, charging system.
Unfortunatlly, you can't patent component application concepts, It's the components themselves that are patented....not for use, but for sale. You can copy ANYTHING, you just can't sell it, or by copying it, impeed the patent holder's ability to sell it.
10-29-2010, 08:16 AM
you were saying you were having trouble with traction? maybe see if some old lawnmower rims fit or something so you can see if you can get the power down, even in first gear lol
11-03-2010, 09:08 PM
3banger, sorry, I guess that I was off, It's called REGENERATIVE BRAKING... and buddy here has it together...
Hey, those look like my components....
Anyway, Stuff99, Lawn Mower Rims?
My problems with traction, have been solved, I have located a set of 4...
Kumho Izen Stud, 195 55 R15 tires...Yes, these are STUDDED...and fit, @ 23.4" Dia...
60MPH = 66.6MPH...
Traction is NO LONGER, a problem...studs...yea, boy...:cool:
11-05-2010, 07:38 PM
I am getting really close to the end now...
All of my remaning parts that were ordered, have come in...
...3 M8x1.25.100...full shank-high strength accessory mounts
...drive belts...6-ribbed 39"-Gatorback
....................4-ribbed 33"-Power Torque
As well as the hybrid crank pulley, which Denis did a GREAT job on; perfect alignment.
Also, the studded tire and rim combination has been ordered; sometime next week, they will be mounted.
I do a lot of "off-text" D&D and can tell you one thing for sure.
Guys on this fourm ask alot about dot3 rated tires "with a really agressive tread, like an ATV tire".
I can't really understand why. Off road is off road and street is street. If you want to do both, then you need both...2 complete sets of tires and rims.
An agressive treaded dot3 rated tire will shake your teeth out on the highway and your milage will go to shi#.
But, people should be able to make their own choices, and Kumho is betting on this;
KUMHO ROAD VENTURE MT, this is what you want, don't delay, the Koreans are about to pull out of the north american markets...
11-08-2010, 09:54 PM
We must eliminate the engine bay incursion...and yet, better our position.....and comfort...within the unit...
11-08-2010, 10:44 PM
take the armrests off the door sides and that should fit fine...good find
11-09-2010, 08:15 AM
I took my arm rest off. bugged the hell outta me! lol
11-12-2010, 04:34 PM
That seat was discontinued, too bad, I really liked it, but I ordered one that was "similar"; should be OK...
Full crank pulley and "gator" belt installed...static rev checks complete...but I will have to wait untill ALL of the acessories have been mounted and belted before I can tune out the inertial "bounce" from the carb...even just the "free wheeling" clutch seems to have an inertial "bounce" component... Two steps back, one step forward... More parts ordered..
Even the timing belt cover had to be "heat-treated"
To fit the specs, and the first 30min of run time, I had to keep water on it untill it "molded-wore" into place...she was tight, with the 6 rib...
The good news; I am very happy with the static tests, the engine, under clutch engagement and WOT, rev check, yealds 6 PSI of boost, on the gauge, and "spools" Like a 2 cycle Yammy...R1...
The engine now spools from 1 TRPM to 7 TRPM, instantaniously....
Just a single "tromp" on the pedal...it IS at 7 TRPM...
It MAY, have too much power...my calculations show 190% HP and 154% torque...
The studded Kumho 195 55r 15s will take it, but I'm concerned about the U-joints...
11-22-2010, 07:02 PM
Turbo Charger VS Super Charger;
Your engine air intake air flows through HERE!!!
Dump the HEAT, embrace the BOOST; control the octane, intercool the mixture...
COOL; in the front, HEAT, out the back...
What, could be easier...
11-22-2010, 08:30 PM
The fit, is perfect, just the arm rests, are 2 3/4" too low...
Close, is factory, far, is ideal, I hate modifying factory parts...but it is what is needed here...
2 3/4 arm rest extention plates will be fabed...
11-22-2010, 08:34 PM
It's waving at me...anyone else see that ?
More comfy than stock?
Don't worry.. ..Phaedrus ......you'll figure it out:)
03-16-2011, 12:05 PM
Any videos on this build? I want to see this "art" in motion..
03-28-2011, 08:30 PM
Fine, I'll give it a shot.
Open the youtube account, integrate the XDIV codec, etc.
Upload one fail, (unknown format), upload two fail, (15min+), cut, chop, reformat, upload, capture, initilize, dongle connection, screen resalution too low, etc., etc...
I could build an entire rock crawler in the time it takes to do this computer stuff...(10year old nephew was busy with exams). This is why I don't do video, anyway...I think it works now...
I don't have any "hey, check this out" videos, but I do use the recorder for mechanical trouble shooting and this was back at the first road trial, checking pulley alignment, as they are all custom, and trying to integrate all of the mechanical adjustments including watermeth injection, choke level and clutch engagement VS vacuum; 1.5PSI lead level. This is all "in-traffic". Just listen to the sound...you can tell by the end that everything was getting dialed in. When it's right, it's right. Scared me at one point; spun the tires at speed.
03-28-2011, 08:44 PM
Need to get that idle figured out... Actually really cool vid!! Can't wait for some more!
03-29-2011, 09:05 AM
very well done
03-30-2011, 11:50 AM
Neat vid....never thought I'd hitch a ride in the engine bay like that:p...now that we're hooked you realize you have to feed the addiction...more video:D
03-30-2011, 05:40 PM
I realize that the guys like the "video-format" Fupa, and that the "ART" rant runs a little cold on some, but the work progresses, regardless. Even the pictures? You guys didn't get anything out of that? Misting water-meth injector?
I guess it's all about the end result. The nephew says so. "It's all about the video Uncle". He really likes the truck and has offered to run the "cam-corder" over the summer and run the whole video integration thing. Little producer...
Maybe I should do that. The girl's still in the snow bank right now, but summer is comming.
Greg; the problem with the idle, was the mixture, (Too Rich) which came from the MASS-AIR-FLOW. Which was restricted, by the temporary hand cut mounting plates and the STOCK carb spacer (restrictive element)...
Both were considered, and eliminated...
The stock DD51t, has a restrictive mass-air-flow element, in the carb mounting plenum, 10% of mass?
Removed, the engineers are idiots; and the mounting plates were refined and cut, on the water-jet.
I guess, what you really want to see is a "boosting" video...
Passing some s*it jetta, on the highway, or whatever...
Or throwing dirt, off the 11" wide Titans...
With the "back-ground" music...
You can see that it revs like an R1...and at video point 6:06, it spun the tires, at speed...
Tic, Tic, where is your ART, is it really all about the video?
03-30-2011, 11:26 PM
Myself...being a true Gemini...I love reading the Socratic dialectic style you post in..it's both the Phaedrus and Elechus,mixed with a dash of Robert Pirsig"s "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance"...fun to read...The Monkey side of me loves the visual...keep up ALL the posts/info/tests/photos/video/sketches...and the "ART"....it's all good stuff:)
04-02-2011, 12:22 AM
And then, the video;
Thanks Fupa, I really appreciate the hype. I have enjoyed posting with my on-line persona, just as much as "some" have enjoyed reading. The work is "real", and I try to put a bit of a spin on it.
This is A LOT, of work, but well worth it. This is a hobby, an escape, and it is about the doing; not the end result. Perfection of the ideal will be done, but when it's done, it's over.
I don't care how long it takes. I only care that it is done to perfection; that it works perfectly, in every way. That, is the ART.
Then the "build", becomes the "video"; another chapter in my enjoyment...
Shots of the previously mentioned restrictive elements.
04-02-2011, 07:51 AM
spaner, I'm one that the "ART" wears on eventually... don't get me wrong my friend... I have followed this thread since it's inception (hasn't worn on me too much then... did it? ;) ). The poetic descriptors may not be to my taste... however the craftsmanship most certainly IS! Let those that can't bear the "ART" find another thread to follow :pop: I for one will continue to observe :cool:
My hat is off to you, every project you've detailed has been superb and obviously carried out in a very professional manner. I look forward to whatever projects you choose to share with us.
"arte et marte"
04-02-2011, 04:49 PM
I forgot to add in my last post...If you post more video,and it has "background music"...you will need to be hunted down...that supercharger engaging is the only "music" you need...:)
04-04-2011, 11:44 PM
Thanks for the reply guys;
and Zardoz, I appreciate your candor, I really do.
A very to the point, yet politically correct statement of opinion.
Here are some older construction pics I dug up as gratuity.
I have some "misting" video around somewere. I'll see if I can't dig that up. I seem to remember that the video worked while the pics didn't...
04-09-2011, 04:45 PM
Here we go, videos' not that hard I guess, once it's all set up.
04-09-2011, 08:24 PM
did you up the water/methane injection rate?...looks a bit over 17cc per min
04-10-2011, 01:33 AM
It can be misleading in the video, that is a teaspoon, not a tablespoon; backyard measures. :D
There is some realtime adjustment available; +/- 50%.
Actually, the only reason I had the video was that I didn't have a timer with second hand sweep in the shop at the time, but I had the recorder and tuned via the playback.
04-11-2011, 05:51 PM
After watching Greg's video, I got all motivated again. So I got the truck out of the storage lot (mud hole) and got some stuff done.
What do you think? Too much?
I was going for the "POLICE" look, but it seems like something's missing.
I also found a cracked vac line, so they all came out. That's the pile on the foor.:frustration:
04-11-2011, 06:26 PM
If your looking for the "Black and White" look like you say... then i suggest more black. Usually all black but only the doors white?? Something blocky like that.. Im thinking at least the frame and tool box black... Love the wheel/Tire combo.
04-13-2011, 05:19 AM
You caught me on that one. I should have been more descriptive there, but yea, I was talking about the wheel/tire combo and getting the "POLICE" look. Took me along time to figure out what combination would work best with a no-lift, no-rub, no-spacer, no-modification, max-size, police-look; "bolt-on" combination.
Eventually, I plan on going with a black vinyl wrap...less the doors, for a madmax "interceptor" look...tricky, cus enforcement around here don't appreciate that kind of thing and I'm already pushing it with the right-hand-drive thing...and my "drifting" driving style dosen't help either I guess.:D
04-13-2011, 06:05 AM
you know the MFP yellow/blue/orange would look pretty cool..and you couldn't be "accused " of trying to look like a mainstream Police vehicle...even with gumballs on the roof...the wheels you have look great though
04-13-2011, 08:34 AM
You Sir, are a very bad influence on me...cuz..I kind of like it..
You think I could get away with the badge on the door?:pop:
04-13-2011, 07:37 PM
Damn right you could.....:):):):):):):):pop:
Myself I would occasionally dress up in an MFP uniform and only use direct quotes from the movie no matter what anyone asks...
"She sips nitro... with Phase 4 heads! 600 horsepower through the wheels! She's meanness set to music and the bitch is born to run! "
"The chain in those handcuffs is high-tensile steel. It'd take you ten minutes to hack through it with this. Now, if you're lucky, you could hack through your ankle in five minutes. Go. "
"Jimmy the Goose, larger than life and twice as ugly! "
"That scag and his floozie, they're gonna die! "
"I think we've got some hoon trouble..."
Those five would work in most situation.....example.
."Welcome to Tim Hortons my name is Wendy can I help you?"
......"That scag and his floozie, they're gonna die! "
"She sips nitro... with Phase 4 heads! 600 horsepower through the wheels! She's meanness set to music and the bitch is born to run! "
See? perfect...it feeds the need for sartorial outlandishness,the inner thespian,and 13 year old hooliganism without breaking any rules..
04-14-2011, 10:54 AM
Keep it up and you'll see some picks of me getting out of the truck at Timmys' in full "wasteland" leather garb, with sawed-off sidearm:D
As for the counter banter, I'm more of a "excuse me...have you seen this boy", picture presentation get me my coffee free...;)
COOL PIC ARE BETTER
04-14-2011, 10:37 PM
It appears you have some spot on alignment..:)
04-15-2011, 07:07 PM
Yea, I needed that laser equipment to finish off the Multi Mount. Five components all on one mounting bed. There's no room for individual mountings. I used just about every peice of equipment in the shop making this sucker. A mig sure would have been nice. The 6013s were kicking my ass, trying to weld around corners and through holes...in the engine bay.
I think I've done just about all I care to this week. :sly:
04-15-2011, 10:49 PM
For anyone considering welding in the engine bay, stick or mig..
Put a rag over the main pulley drive assembly...even if it catches fire..
The spalding actually fused....now I have to pull it...
04-19-2011, 08:46 AM
Multi Mount installed
Pulleys 4, 5, and 6 are now alignned in their new positions
4040335 Gatorback ordered :D
6 pulleys and 9 components, all installed and perfectly aligned.
What did guys do before lasers? :pop:
04-19-2011, 10:34 AM
Spanner I hear ya on the lasers... years ago my dad and I invented a machine to assemble pvc components... it was a BEAST to align. I finally convinced our company to let me trial a brand new laser alignment rig (at that time the tech was pretty much brand new on the market). VIOLA! I was able to bring my machine reset time down by more than half!
Would LOVE to go for a ride in your beast sometime but you live a long way away... so I'll have to build my own... lol... ya right!
Keep up the great work!
04-19-2011, 03:25 PM
It's guys like you (AND OTHERS) that modavate me to keep comming back to this site..and remember to stop...and take a photo...:D
You've dabbled in robotics a bit so I know that you understand what I'm talking about most of the time. I call it an art, but it's more than that, it surrounds us, it binds us, the rock, the tre...sorry bout that...I mean that it is a moving mechanical art form. It seems to have life; a life that at first, was only imagined, and as the form takes shape, it grows, seamingly of it's own accord, to fill the space and application.
That is why I do this, not to see it done, but to see the form take shape.
The same could be said for a hobby like a grow-op, wouldn't you say? ;)
The laser equipment was bang on, 2mm clearance at all crossover locations:
and from previous posts:
First concept sketch:
Second concept sketch:
If we could get Greg to post up some of his exterior video, I feel that it would help to modivate all of us...:D
Be nice to hear from Welder and how the "Drifter" is comming along...:confused:
04-20-2011, 04:44 AM
That's F*****G AWESOME :)
04-20-2011, 07:12 PM
Second concept sketch:
There is FA wrap on that alternator, maybe you need to put in another idler pulley.
04-21-2011, 03:54 PM
Hey Harley, where you been hiding? How's the bike build going? :pop:
You're totally right about the Alt belt wrap. It's been on my mind since I changed to the second design and always had the back-up plan of putting in a second idler, if necessary. I just couldn't see if it was needed one way or the other. In the first design I had both the AC and Alt at a 25%/25% shared wrap and realized that the AC would require a much higher torque than the Alt. So I changed it to a 40%/10% wrap, with the thought that it might still be enough for such a small Alt.
Once the belt was on I couldn't break it loose by hand and got 26"lb on the wrench to break it loose from the belt. Not too bad...during the idle/run-up check, I loaded up all the electrical with a half dead bat...seemed OK. :confused:
Have you posted anything on your superbike?
04-22-2011, 09:00 PM
Big foot, Wallace;
Man, these meats are big, and heavy. About twice as much as the originals. They were 20" 155s; these are 23.6" 195 55r 15" KUMHO Wisk 119s (STUDDED) with some "winter steelies" from Can Tire.
Say hello to my little friend... :D
As I was pulling out of the shop, for the second trial run, "Spun" the rears and left some scratch marks in the newly layed concrete and took the paint off the new floor (studs). The old man is going to be pissed...
Anyway, hot-wired the honeywell sensor so that I could do some "road-trials" with the system to date. No meth, just the basic charger, to see what's what. :pop:
Truck rides like it's on rails with the new "square" type meats but has a lot of "ping" through the gears; this is with the standard 87, basic Canadian grade. Loaded up with some 97 (best we can get here) and lost the "ping" from gears 1 through 2.5...Not a lot of "load" there anyways...could almost eliminate first gear...
As soon as I put a load on the third gear...loss of pwr and "ping"...
Definitely a situation for the water/meth, and just a confirmation for the system.
Just the same, the truck used to run like....a golf cart.
Now it runs like a fork-lift...on steroids.
A hell of a fun ride none the less;:D the honeywell sensor does it's job perfectly...put 40km on it...with some hiyway driving, up to 100kph.
The super charger is as loud as hell, but does not even get warm...:confused:...thought it would...
I'll tackel the water meth, next week...
Any suggestions for recording video from the cab?
Steer with the right and shift with the left...where's the camcorder?
Greg, you're Auto, dosen't count...;)
04-23-2011, 03:06 AM
steer, shift,signal with the left..video in the right.....it's a tiny bit less efficient though..A bit slower going through the gears ,when you want a hand back on the wheel before you hit th gas again
04-26-2011, 09:35 AM
I've learned a few more things over the last 72hr...:cool:
1) the water meth method of controlling octain level "for ping", works perfectly.
I mis spoke before when I said that I had loaded up with 97, it was actually 91. From 87 to 91, ping was reduced by 10%. With the addition of 4cc/minute of 49/51 water meth, ping was reduced by 60% of the remainder. At 12cc/minute, ping was reduced by 95%.
2) You can not eliminate stock tuning components, namely vacuum lines, and expect to be able to tune to just rich of peek EGT (max pwr). The adjustable air jet will no longer fall within that envelope.
Some of these lines are made to suck air.
Namely 1) EPA fuel vent recovery, and 2) especially, the air box line, which not only controls the hot air flapper valve, but is, in itself, a tuned air flow line, having been placed into the MAF of the intake plenum. As MAF increases, an additional amount of AIR is introduced directlly to the manifold.
Burning a lot of fuel? Do you have your stock air cleaner?
Makes a HUGE differance in the mixture.
Having said all that. Everything was put back as it should be. Tuned correctlly, and back out onto the road. Deffinetly did the trick. So well infact that the S/C belt "cherped" and BP went WAY, above the level that I should be getting, "ping" returned.
3) Exhaust Back pressure
Boosting with a supercharger VS a turbocharger, exhaust back pressure needs to be eliminated by, at least, an equal amount of the boosted MAF.
No "spooling" pressure required here.
A 50% increase in MAF would require a 50% increase in exhaust flow? :pop:
Thanks for reseaching the parts dmerc, looks like just what I need...and only $50...:D
04-26-2011, 11:25 AM
Haha...silly me ....I just assumed that the exhaust wasn't any longer stock......that $50 is going to be the cheapest 10hp you'll ever get:):pop:
04-26-2011, 03:36 PM
More Fupa, more...
I don't know anything about exhaust tuning, just learning, but I know that the stock systems are already restricted to meet the HP restriction of the manufacturers. I don't know a lot about it so I did like a lot here have suggested to others for exhausts, I went to the local Midas, where I know an "old timer" runs the place.
He was totally "into it" (his buddy has a Honda Mini), and he's worked with side by sides, he reminded me of that sergeant from Platoon with the cigarette...
"Na, na, na...you're going about it all wrong..." :confused:
"What you want to do is work backwards...it's like, we know that a 5" pipe is too big"
This is after I gave him all the details...
"A Walker 331?...that's too small for a supecharger to breath through"
"You want it to make power, don't you? What size is the flange off the manifold...or..you want me to make you a header, and do it right?"
Well..., I said, I think that the stock exhaust manifold should be OK for the job, mabe just go a bit larger with the pipe, after the catalytic converter?
"A Cat?...I can't work with no Cat."
Well..., I said, mabe I could...
"Listen" he says..."Next week, I'll put aside the whole day, just bring it in first thing in the morning....and when it comes in the shop, I don't want to see no Cat...just leave the O2 sensor hanging there, we'll fix that up and we'll see about that flange size, I'm thinking 2", but we'll see."
Ahhh, OK, I said, so, next week I'll bring that in, and you can get it so...
"Yea, we'll fix it up, just do like I said and we'll take care of it."
I walked out of there saying "yea, that guy knows more than I do."
I just love it when people know what they're doing...:cool:
04-26-2011, 05:33 PM
Hey Harley, where you been hiding? How's the bike build going? :pop:
Busy with work atm! But work is really fun for me so life is good;)
Your work/modifications are awesome btw, respect.
The real test for the alternator will be under full load at night, lights on, stereo on, powering up a hill, with the engine at 5k rpm and the belt orbiting under it's own inertial. I always thought it could be good to have an electronic cutout switch for the alternator when the engine is under full load, e.g. @ WOT or under peak boost. That would increase engine efficiency and remove the belt slip problem for you under full load, just a thought.
04-26-2011, 05:52 PM
I seem to recall a similar set-up to what Harley is talking about....alt cut out and second battery coming on at WOT....so no alt drag and 24v to the ignition and fuel pump...reverts to 12v at anything other than WOT.....can't recall exactly how it was set up but was used in road racing back in the 1960s-70s.....the ignition and pump can handle the short bursts of 24v without any issues...I'll try and find some more info on it ...been a long time since I read the tech article on it
04-30-2011, 08:15 AM
Thanks for the imput guys. Yea, I'm going to have to think about that a little while, after I have some hard miles on it and see what is really needed. Right now I think I'd like to do all three options. Just to stretch the project a little more. ;)
This little mini-mod is going well. My plan was to take everthing apart, learn what it's all about, and put it back together with lots of never-seize so that I know more than they do, when it gets into Midas, and, I'm not paying shop time for broken studs etc.
Now I know that buddy was right, you can't work with the Cat...
There's no point in putting an 1 3/4" muffler on the 1 3/4" exhaust pipe...if the Cat exit pipe is only an 1 1/4"....not going to do anything...
The exhaust manifold flange is a whole different story...
Lot's of room here, to do whatever you want...3 1/4"...
Custom flange is being fabed up for next week. With plans for a 2" exhaust from front to back...
I did clean out the Cat before I put everthing back together, but there was nothing wrong with it. Not blocked.
I did take it out onto the road and could just..notice a slight difference in performance, but almost no difference with "cleaning out" the Cat...
It's that 1 1/4" Cat outflow oriface, just too restrictive to work with...
It'll ALL be in the garbage can by the end of next week...
05-05-2011, 08:14 PM
Dun, dun, duaaa...
That's where that 10 hp was hiding...:D
Took the boys 2hr and 20 minutes, front to back. Brand new 2" exhaust off the manifold. Very clean, very proffesional job. One hard mount and two soft mounts; tail pipe out the left side, behind the rear left tire...future rear bumper consideration.
Put it this way, prior to mod, idle was set @ 1000...after mod, idle was @ 1500. Prior to mod, "ping" control required 12cc/minute @ WOT...after mod, "ping" control required 4cc/minute @ WOT...talk about back pressure.
Now I can "spin" the studded 15s in 1st and 2nd...:D
AND; prior to ANY modification, with my Titan 489s 24-12s...top speed was 60kph, truck would not go any faster...now, no top speed limit...SCARY..:eek:
Demo'd the truck for some friends, just after, and their only comment?
I can post some more "new" exhaust pics if anyone is interested, but as far as I'm concerned, not my work, but respect for this vendor; nice job guys.
Time to take a break...
Next week, the fun continues...:pop:
05-06-2011, 08:39 AM
Yeah. So... when you release the kit let me know and I'll buy one rotfl!!!
05-06-2011, 08:06 PM
The "Interceptor" is about 2/3rds done and you guys have been pretty good, so common, let's go for a ride...http://www.minitrucktalk.com/picture.php?albumid=291&pictureid=1672
Hammered Down (WOT) twice, on the way back, in 4th, never saw 5th, on this run...
Mostly 60ish, on the twisty part, and 70ish on the main road...
05-07-2011, 01:25 AM
damn it you always post these on nights I am at work and youtube is blocked :frustration::frustration::frustration::frustratio n::frustration::)
05-07-2011, 01:51 AM
Ha, ha...I just happen to be up tonight, "BORED", and posted from my mini truck channel stash...
You don't work at the OCC do you?
Just a strait "street" run anyway, fun as hell though...
Project should be done by June, sometime...
05-07-2011, 06:28 AM
Nope not OCC
at 1:00 when you are behind the ram making the left the throttle blip is sweet:) the cabs of these minis have horrible acoustics at anything over a crawl..they seem to destroy sound recording...love to hear the 2" exhaust from the outside.. how do you find the ride with the low prof. tires?....tire pressure?...I found a huge difference in ride dropping to 26psi from 28-30......I tried 36psi just for giggles and the handling was terrifyingly bad:) not to mention the ride
05-08-2011, 09:19 AM
The ride is not bad at all but it would prob improve with a little drop in psi; giving up a little performance and more fuel...nothing compared to just having these big meats on anyway. I had the camcorder mounted to the pasenger headrest bar with a bunch of elastic bands. Seemed solid enough, but in the video, bumps and shakes are magnified quite a bit...it was really a fairlly smooth ride.
That sound blip you mentioned at 1:00, happens every time I went to WOT, but that was the only time that the camcorder "picked it up". Not sure how to fix that?
Like when I turned around, to come back, I spun the rears from gravel to pavement, making a hell of a racket, but all you hear is static..then the sound kicks back in, shifting into second gear??
Same thing happened both times I went to WOT in fourth gear, on the way back. You can tell cus the picture starts to shake, and things get faster, but the sound goes to static?
Next time I think I'll try it with the windows open...
05-10-2011, 06:11 PM
So, I've got few hundred K on the "Interceprer" now and I'm about ready to "turn up the boost". How can I do this? You might ask...one step at a time...tuning...
I've been adjusting the mixture, water/meth, exhaust back pressure...etc. Getting everything "dialed in", ping control, occtain level, under boost...
Things are looking GOOD. I've been boosting between 2 to 4 PSI...but, I had not put any check valves on the two vacuume lines off of the intake manifold...so I've been "bleading" boost...about 3 more PSI, GOING, to be added...not yet...
After a hard run yesterday, 30km @ WOT and FULL BOOST, at night, I pulled up to an intersection....and the truck had only 1/3rd PWR from that point on????
Seemed to be running on 2 of the 3 cylinders, checked everything, one component at a time, all looked good.
Tell me what is wrong, what component has failed. Have I destroyed this engine? Have I gone "too far"?
Starts normal, runs a little ruff, very little PWR, "smell of gas"....:pop::pop::pop:
No bangs, no grinds..nothing...nothing...:sly:
05-10-2011, 10:19 PM
what heat range and gap spark plugs did you use ? I think you have burned out/fouled a plug or two
05-11-2011, 06:27 AM
I'd pull your plugs and let them sit overnight so any excess gas can evaporate out, then I'd replace your plugs with some a step cooler (cooler plugs for boost is pretty standard) and try again. If you killed the engine with boost it'd be messy and wouldn't run.
05-11-2011, 10:54 AM
Pulled the plugs, 1 and 2 are normal, 3 is totally fouled..kleened it up, rotated the positions...restart , no change, checked the cap and rotor, no change, pulled plugs again..1 is fouled 2 is ok 3 is fouled......getting worse...
05-14-2011, 03:39 PM
THIS HAS BEEN A TEST, JUST A TEST....:cool:
Not enough players though...:(
Thanks for the tries though guys. I actually tracked down the culprit the next morning. Pretty easy to see the problem once it "surfaced" and I could look for "something", but you can see from the pic that this has been sapping engine power for some time. Leads 1 and 2 are not as bad but still, they do have carbon tracks. New set is in the mail.:pop:
and, yes, that is burned right through...
I'm starting to add horses now, one at a time. Boost-Up, next week.:rolleyes:
05-14-2011, 05:13 PM
I think we were pretty damn close...a spark problem is a spark problem..especially between the cap and the block....I'm giving Raven and myself an %80 on that one cause the plugs were fouled:D:D:D:D:D:):)........during the test post you mentioned that #1 was ok then switched then fouled..that would suggest the only changed variable was the plug
05-14-2011, 05:57 PM
80% is still an A..:D
Yea, if you guys were looking at it, you would have found it right away, pretty hard to miss; once you're looking.
and, #1 fouled after swapping..from...half wire..half wet plug?:confused:
Seems strange that it would cause such a complete failure from one moment to the next anyway...but it is, what it is..
New wires new plugs...on the way:rolleyes:
05-14-2011, 09:13 PM
Prob. #1 fouled from the wire being disturbed..
05-14-2011, 11:01 PM
Seems strange that it would cause such a complete failure from one moment to the next anyway...but it is
Ummmm... Strange? really? Its called periodic maitenance... That thing was done long ago. :p
05-14-2011, 11:21 PM
:)Ouch...isn't it passed your bed time?:)
05-14-2011, 11:39 PM
bed time? whats that? :p
05-16-2011, 10:30 PM
The "Interceptor" is Currently Experiencing Technical Difficulties:pop::pop::pop:
This week's work included the gauge cluster. Intake vacuum check valves. Injection consideration, and general maintanence.
Gauge cluster was "hot-wired" in, like the rest of the system. I don't want to lock anything down untill I can dial everything in. The mechanical side of the system turned out quite well though. No HI-LOW Illumination, under boost yet; just the basics...
TWO Low-Flow check valves inserted into the TWO in-flow points on the intake manifold. Boost-UP condition CONFIRMED.
NOW, considering substitution of "OCTAINE 104" for the water/meth; after this boost-up. 87 basic with "octaine 104" injection; under boost.
Still waiting for the new wire set and plugs from CAN-POST, but I just couldn't resist checking out the new gauge cluster under this boost-up condition......on the road...
Thought you guys might appreciate this: sneek-peek...
Now I know that I need an idler on the alternator belt...what a differance in PWR!!!
Sorry, my video work is not as good as Iron's but I'll get that figured out later this summer...
05-16-2011, 11:13 PM
that's some fairly expensive injection fluid....why would you want to move away from water/meth....?....are you trying to run more ignition advance and are hoping for more knock reduction under boost?....have you considered propane injection ..but only under boost? you would get added cooling benefits and run cleaner...be easier to regulate than water injection
05-17-2011, 01:24 AM
Fupa, you are totally right about the LPG injection consideration, but consider this:
If I was doing this conversion on something large, like a 350, the cooling effect would out-weigh the FUEL-TYPE power differential of the LPG, but not on something small like this (even, just for injection); IMHO.
I am looking at going to TDC on the timming, with the 104 under boost...eventually...
One step at a time. Initially, even under 7PSI of boost, it seems that I am not getting ALL of the PWR available HERE; "TING" due to ignition contamination (wires&plugs) and "PING" under "LOAD" conditions (after the boost-up); with the water/meth. Just due to the hi-compression engine AND the added BOOST...IDK..NSAM...
I might "get-away" with a cheaper substitute in the short term; but not in the long run.
I really need a "full-control" sustitute injection fluid so I can dial-in all of the mechanical variables. 104, takes this variable "away".
Wires&plugs will take the "TING" away.
Then I can dial up the timming.
Spin the 15s at speed, or blow up the engine; seriously, that's where I'm at now...
AND, even after my 30k run @ WOT, under "BOOST", I could still hold my hand on the SC; just barley HOT... :confused::confused::confused:
I guess "bolting it right to the huffer", on the "suck-through" system paid-off...:sly:
There really is, still, a lot of work to be done; but it will be done.
Mid June, I really need this guy to get to my seasonal trout fishing streams, so, I'm motivated to get him "done".
JUST WAITING FOR PARTS....:pop::pop::pop: CAN-POST, from the west coast; could take....FOREVER...
05-18-2011, 11:23 PM
"Blow up the engine"...
Yea, getting a little crazy there. Trying to get everything dialed in with tuning and the gizmos...:o
Parts came in and the work was done. Turns out that the plugs and wires were causing a greater problem than I gave them credit for. Drained the gas tank's 87 dry, filled back up with the 91...water meth @ 4cc/minute, timming advanced to 4deg.....DONE
No Ping no Ting no Knock, just pulling power. Seen 7psi max boost. Spin the 15s, no problem, passing power no problem, 0 to 60 is FAST, for a 0.6L mini:D
50% power increase FOR SURE, probably more...
Can't get this driver's side video thing figured out though. Did road trials tonight for 2hr, and all the video's no good.....
1) Alt belt screems like crazy now...anything over 2psi..
2) starting to lose studs off the kumho's....never thought of that...
3) seat needs to be finished...locked down
4) hard wire system operating components
A lot less work left than I thought, mechanical and engine, all done.
You ever been totally satisfied one minute, then totally pissed off the next?
I was heading down the 4-lane, boosting, passing, checking the analog readings on my boost-O-meter, smilling...I KNOW, the job is done...:cool:
Then, ya, the cherries come on,...pull over and wait. Cop (she), comes by the left side, looks in the window, then walks over to the right side and just stands there and looks at me, like she's Billy-Bad-Ass. We square-off for a second, then I'm like "WHAT!!?". "WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING 98 IN A 60 FOR?"
"Ahhhhhh, cus I'm a dumb ass?"
That saved me....we work it out, I give her the yatta, yatta...she's cute..I let her know it....and I'm on my way...Ticket, 70 in a 60..OK...
Broke my 7 year run though, never been pulled over in 7 years:cool:
So, I need some more video, so, I head to the OTHER side of town, get a coffee....start doing some 0 to 60's (100)....I'm getting some 18s, GPS lag is a little confusing though and I'm trying to figure out what the differential with the truck's gauge is at speed, when I look up, and......ya, the cherries come on....this time the cop come right up on the right side...and says,
"You're a dumb ass"
I'm going fishing...
05-19-2011, 12:18 AM
2 in 1 day.....oh man that honks....still funny though....sorry:frustration::D:):pop::p
05-19-2011, 12:48 AM
Not funny, IRONIC...
BANG, the "Interceptor" is dialed IN. Just like that, and I'm pissed off.
A long story but, you had to be there. I'm doing hi-speed road trials in a custom boosted mini truck, and the cops are giving me tickets, left and right.
Should have known better.
The Interceptor belongs in the bush, doing donuts whilst climbing hills and throwing dirt of the 11" wide Titan 489s.
The road trials are over.
That phone #'s not much good anymore either...
05-19-2011, 06:18 AM
Yeah, first time out with my RSX after I turbo'ed it was much the same story :o Oops, this car can go 45mph in 1st gear... and I already shifted into 3rd. Lookin' forward to some off road arse kicking!
05-19-2011, 07:22 PM
OK, maybe one more...
05-29-2011, 11:33 PM
I've got a few more hundred K on the "Interceptor" now (after the wires and such) everthing IS; dialed in, I'm very happy with the performance, but mostly, the torque...BIG DIFFERANCE..this is how he should have come from the factory. Only down side, burns premium like CRAZY!!! I just can't stop driving it like a formula 1; got to stop that...
So, I got the original "Winter grip 155's" back on, just for the summer highway travel. Running back and forth to the trout stream camp area.
Just ridiculous, 1st gear is for the bush, second...have to take it easy, but 0 to 80kph dropped from 15s to about 10s...:cool:
Something to be said for "rolling resistance". I wouldn't have believed it would make that much difference, but it did. The Titan 489's are 24's, but run half as much weight as the Kumho's, with the CT "steelies"...we'll see how they perform...
I'll get some video out later this summer after a few "bush runs"...but the nephew is about to finish school and wants to take control of that:pop::pop:
I only hope that he can produce as well as Iron....
Cuz, it's just stupid, with the 11 Inch wide rear Titan's, climbing sand hills, with the diff-lock on. It's not the "suzuki carry" anymore....
It's the "INTECEPTOR"....
PS: off-road arse-kicking, to follow...
05-30-2011, 08:28 AM
Don't know how I missed that last video ???:confused:...the growl sounds cool.:)...I know what you mean by rolling resistance,I've been trying to pass that one on for a few months now.....had 175/70s and swapped for 155/80s and the difference was quite noticeable.......when's the MFP paint job coming :):D
06-10-2011, 10:47 PM
06-11-2011, 07:19 AM
Is your camera mounted on the windshield???....cool video...looks like you had to do the "survivorman" ...set up camera......go far away....move through camera's field of vision....go way back and retrieve camera...:D
06-11-2011, 12:12 PM
Yea, had some fun with it, turned out ok for my first attempt. Did the survivorman thing a few times, had a hard time with figuring out a mount for the inside....it was infront of me the whole time...GPS windshield mount...now I can mount to any glass in any position..simple. ;)
Got a lot of raw video over a week having fun with the truck but turned out that a lot of it got corrupted once the SD card got over half full.:frustration: I had some wicked sand climbing in there. Not sure if I will be able to recover the AVI files but I'm learning a lot which is what I like about doing projects in the first place. 3gpp...zamzar...file headers, now I know why people go to school for this stuff. This video started out with no music, but there is this annoying tic,tic,tic going on, quite loud, audio was added to cover that up, that's why the level is so high.
Respect Iron, this video stuff is hard work...but kinda fun too.:D
PS: More beer = beter videohttp://www.minitrucktalk.com/picture.php?albumid=291&pictureid=1684
06-11-2011, 05:34 PM
we still want to see a video of it ripping up pavement!.
06-11-2011, 06:18 PM
we still want to see a video of it ripping up pavement!.
I can provide that! :pop:
06-12-2011, 01:15 AM
Yea, I'm going to stay away from the pavement-supercharger mix for a while. Last week, on my way out of town, I was stopped at a light beside these two girls in an F-150 and it kind'a looked to me like the Interceptor was not getting the respect that it deserves. So...4x4...ON...Difflock...ON...green light...HAMMERED DOWN. It "hops", like a jackrabbit, for the first 40 feet and I had the 145's on so I got it up to 80 inside of two blocks in a 60...maximum braking, and turned into the gas station to fill-up...just like I planed. As soon as I step out of the truck, OPP cruser drives into the lot and pulls up to the other side of the pumps..officer hanging out the window obviously looking at the truck. I just turned the other way and kept pumping my gas...I don't see you....and he pulled away.:o...that would have been number three.
06-12-2011, 08:40 AM
Is that an RV90 in your box (that's what she said......boooyaaa!)...what's with the bagged plate ??? heist in progress:confused::):):)....love the sound of that truck
06-12-2011, 10:51 PM
Nice, She said "is that a motorbike in my box, or are you just excited". baDang...:pop:
Yea, I always bring the RV90 as a back-up to walking when I go out swamping and such, but here I was shooting some road-restriction climbing in HD and took a few jpegs as well. I had the plates bagged up for the close quarter video, cuz you can't crop it frame by frame and I like a little anonimity..just In case, you know? Not sure what kind of misschef I'll get up to here.
Unfortunatlly, that footage was too corrupted to recover...I'll just have to go back and shoot some more...:D
06-17-2011, 06:23 AM
07-12-2011, 03:34 PM
So, back to the work. The interceptor is very dialed in, and, like I said, 88hp is my opinion; but I still have a slight hesitation on acceleration when I "HAMMER DOWN"; you gotta "feel the petal" for optimal engine acceleration, you can't just "floor it" off the clutch. Seafoamed him, OK, things are good, but the same. Two things are different from the original:
1) Boost pressure; like a turbo
2) Watermeth injection
So, I've just changed two things in the set-up:
Plugs: Like the factory Turbo, supercharger; are hotter and the gap is tighter; so let's figure this out:
So, we need the same physical size, but for a Turbo temp and gap.
NGK, of cource: I'd prefer a DPR5EIX-7, but there is no such thing.:mad:
So, a DPR6EIX-9....gap can be tightened, but very rare plug. Ordered...maybe:sly:
If all else fails, the DPR5EA-9, is very common and should be just fine, once gaped.
Second change: Watermeth...
Installed throttle position sensor @ 75% location. So now, even if boost is ON, no meth injection below 3/4 throttle...cylinder cumbustion foul elimination. (boost can come on with very little throttle, but high load...like a hill and low speed; therefore low RPMs)
It'll run a lot hotter, but it's not even warm now so should be OK.
We'll see how it works out next week,
Trial by video...:cool:
07-12-2011, 06:25 PM
What? So, I read back a few posts, and I guess I missed a few things. Just dropping in from the camp; summer, you know? "Intermitant Internet", and attention.
The up-to-date; is this:
1) My expeience with wheel size VS weight VS rolling resistance (tread pattern). I have a set of 195 55r 15s studded, with can-tire "steelies" (60lbs each); a set of 145-winter stocks on "aluminums" (15lbs each) and a set of Arctic Cat 12s with the Titan 489s, 24x8s (20lbs each) in the front and the 24x11s in the rear (25lbs each). I've used them all under different conditions.
This is the answer:
TREAD PATTERN: Has a 25% effect on PWR/Torque.
TOTAL SIZE:......Has a 35% effect on PWR/Torque.
TOTAL WEIGHT:..Has a 45% effect on PWR/Torque.
Don't know, that's just what it is. If you could find a set @ 24" that was super light, and had a flat profile tread, you'd be set for max street potential. I'm going to say aluminum ATV 12's with the biggest street tire possible will give the best performance, on the street.
2) Sorry Fupa, missed you there. The MFP paint and badges will be done; over the winter. Not going to take the FUN out of the summer.
3) Missed this link for some reason. The Interceptor is tuned in, air-box completed, seat modification complete, carb and meth injection; tuned.
Plugs and watermeth TPS integrated video to come...:D
07-12-2011, 07:57 PM
2) Sorry Fupa, missed you there. The MFP paint and badges will be done; over the winter. Not going to take the FUN out of the summer.
Damn that's gonna be cool...If you didn't do it I was gonna do up the Mits. before I give it to my son
07-12-2011, 08:25 PM
YOU KNOW IT'S GOING TO BE...:pop:
Dosen't mean you can't be first;
But it will be done. Yea, let's do a "cammo", or, maybe just a "flat black";
A WASTE OF OUR TIME...
I got the lights (massive; yellow) and bumper (ridiculous; cow-plow) figured out.
When I blow by the local "MART" gathering, downtown, at 80k...
Well, you haven't see nothing yet....http://www.minitrucktalk.com/picture.php?albumid=291&pictureid=1679
07-13-2011, 06:39 AM
Damn! You need to get a rollcage for that b1tch, you're hauling ASS!
07-13-2011, 06:55 AM
Oh, and Tiesto = win
07-28-2011, 12:43 AM
Iron, the last of the high speed @ss hauling, you have seen. The nephew got a hold of the GPS unit after the last road run, MAX speed-126KPH...
Were you?...did you?...that last turn were you doing...?:eek:
NAW, leftover data from my Ford Focus Highway trip I said. ATV tirers can't hold that kind of speed...:cool:
I got tuned in there. Kind of dangerous I guess. Not about to install a rollcage cu'z I don't plan on doing any rolling. So, going to do some low speed obstruction crawling over the next while. Ironic, cu'z the plug change worked out great!
A lot of NET info searching on the plug temps, booster's said that I should go one step cooler; 7s to 8s. Mether's said that I should go hotter; 7's to 6's...almost no info from guys who are boosting with meth; but they did say that it should cancel out; 7's to 7's...:frustration:...I ended up going with the 6's...and a tighter gap (28)...for throttle responce VS economy...
The slight hesitation that I had was eliminated...but best of all...when I put the timing light on him, I realized that I had "advanced" the timing to 4deg...:frustration:read back a few posts..thought you guys were looking out for me here, checking my work...I been smoke'n too many dubes in the shop.
Corrected that to 14deg...(ADVANCED TIMING)http://www.minitrucktalk.com/picture.php?albumid=291&pictureid=1678 plus the hotter plugs...checked it out "down town" before the highway; WOW...http://www.minitrucktalk.com/picture.php?albumid=291&pictureid=1669
Then, out on the highway, leaving town, started to lose power at speed, (figured, plugs too hot, CHT way too high...). So, I pump the throttle twice to determine throttle responce...rookie mistake....BANG..http://www.minitrucktalk.com/picture.php?albumid=291&pictureid=1674 THOUGHT I LOST THE ENGINE THERE.
JUST LUCKY; Just, blew the intake vacuum lines off the manifold. Limped him to the hunt camp. First time I have ever had a "back-fire" through an intake manifold. Took him apart "on-sight"; PROBLEM Due to modified seat presure on the supercharger electrical mag coil connector. Connector rotated 180deg to eliminate interference. Problem solved.
The supercharger clutch was engaging at erratic intervals due to interfeance from the seat modification.
All problems with this build have now been solved, madness ensues...
07-28-2011, 01:41 AM
There is such a thing as too much power. I won't be looking at any further power modification for this unit. As it is, the Titan 489's (11" wide in the rear) just "spin" in all gears on gravel road applications. I now have to apply the throttle in a "feeling manner" to make full traction, (even with diff-lock-ON) in the bush. You will see this clearly in the following "rear-view" video clips. Dark patches in the dirt during throttle application.
The unit does blead power below 3TRPM's, which is why I mostly keep things revved up high, for control.
With the plug changes and the recent vacuum advance, I am now calling the HP level to be closer to 100HP than 90. Or the "Interceptor 100"
07-28-2011, 06:52 AM
wow 100 hp u soo need to make up a kit for this lol how much money u got putting this together so far
07-28-2011, 10:07 AM
Too much power in the mini truck. Never thought anyone'd have that problem!
07-28-2011, 10:24 AM
on the 4 degrees timing...though you were just being careful to avoid detonation:D
07-28-2011, 08:50 PM
I could put a kit together, not a problem. No one would buy it though. Once you factor in labour for components and job outsourcing, cost would be about $5500 ish, then profit on top of that. Not really interested in doing that.
After this video was shot, I destroyed the front end on the truck; bent it to hell. I waited too long to get that front bumper-slider completed. Ironic again, all that high speed waco driving and the damage gets done at 2mph. I hit an imovable rock with the truck in 4wd, diff-lock on, in EL @ 6TRPM...you get the idea.
07-28-2011, 09:47 PM
crap..that stinks.hope it's not too bad ..cool vid though
07-30-2011, 06:58 PM
Hey, the vids are becoming fun Fupa. A little bit of work, lot's of learning. Lost a lot of clipage due to "movie-maker" using remote "shortcuts". I had a whole bunch of mid-level clips to be synced to audio, and then cleaned up the desk-top video scraps. Movie maker clips now showed only "Xs". "Unknown link". Lesson learned, ALWAYS, have a master back-up of the raw data.:frustration:
That's why some of the clips "run-on", not a lot of material left, and I went with WEST; not good enough for the next Tiesto mix. 30% of what I had. What ever, it was still a hell of a lot of fun to do. Gave me a break during the day's work, winching the camper truck into this year's camp/hunt site...remote fly-in-only outfitter's lake. (man he was shocked-pissed to see the big truck come in) :cool:...
The interceptor1 makes a great "chase vehicle"http://www.minitrucktalk.com/picture.php?albumid=291&pictureid=1672; 6000lb winch (with block-doubler), gas, bike, gen, bat-charger etc. Three days to winch the 7km in to the site. One hour to drive out with the mini.:D....with AC... :D FUN...SMILES ;) Happiness...
I'm going back next week to try out the fishing, and see if these "fly-in Ameicans" are actually getting their 5grand worth. Going to be fun.
"The front end damage" was to the passenger side drag-link mount; bent to hell...but, it's better. I had the same "pitman arm wear", clunking up and down, in the bush. Figured, next winter project #46; press-sleave it up. Now, IT'S ALL TIGHT. Steering is good, track is good, no "pitman-arm banging"; up and down. Steering wheel is "out" 30deg to the right, though :confused:.
I might just leave all that to the winter, down time, repair time....it's just TOO MUCH FUN to take it "out -of-service"...:D
07-31-2011, 12:38 AM
Jacked the drag-link back into place, and fixed the pitman-arm slackage; rattle and roll. Shimed the pitman-arm with two lengths of cv joint end-ties. (cut-ends) Couldn't find the "shim-stock". One length in the shaft and one length in the bushing; pressed it all together. Forget a $100 buck bushing; no more slack and steers fine. :D
08-03-2011, 07:15 PM
Forgot, blew the AC out the rear cross-over line at the mounting point, can't fix the aluminum line until I find that last MAGIC aluminum welding rod I have stashed away "some where". I don't think you can buy them anymore.:confused:
08-03-2011, 07:36 PM
send me your address and I'll mail you one (magic aluminum rods) I have a bunch squirelled away,
08-22-2011, 05:44 AM
Thanks buddy, I appreciate that. I found the "alumiweld" site and ordered a pack, and then found two rods in the bottom of a tool box in the trunk of my car. Cheap to buy anyway...
Just got back from two weeks of kicking the cr@p out of the truck in the back country.
Tore the coolent lines out,
Ripped the he!! out of one of the front Titan 489's,
Bent the he!! out of the 12" arctic cat front rim, at the same time,
Bashed the body in just above the left head light,
Dented the diver's door in,
and ripped the 2" ball and bumper off the rear of the truck...
All in all, had a fantastic time...
Two weeks of fun = Two weeks of work in repairs, but that's fun too...
Had this "montage" in the works from way back when, not sure why I didn't finish it?
Closed it out with some Tiesto:
08-22-2011, 06:13 AM
Cool video! Do you have any pics of you "kicking the crap" out of your truck in the back country? Sounds like you had a blast!!
09-02-2011, 10:02 AM
Yea, kicked the crap out of it:D FUN, FUN, FUN:pop:
09-02-2011, 01:01 PM
Holy CRAP! Kicking the crap out of it was an understatement! Looks like you "endo'd" onto the pavement!
09-02-2011, 01:31 PM
FUN in the build, and FUN in the use. I don't ever want to be afrade of scratching the paint or bending something, if I was, I'd PARK IT:sly:
Ever get a "door ding" in fresh paint on a new car? I've had it happen within 24hr of a new purchase, and 3 days after completing a 5 year build on my 71 GT6+; ruined my whole summer.
No more. Now the first thing I do when I get a new car; I KEY IT.
That's just how I roll:D
09-03-2011, 09:55 AM
Interesting damage. Makes me think water was involved...
Its got character now! :cool:
09-03-2011, 10:13 AM
I say we keep trying to guess the method of destruction til we get it right:D
....on the passenger front and A piller I'm thinking tree across your path at a 45 degree angle and got wedged under it
09-03-2011, 10:45 AM
It's a hard concept to follow! As far as your toy's, they are meant to be driven hard. Daily driver nope. I do believe we put to much stock in our possessions but... Well it sure looked like you enjoyed yourself. A video of the of it rolling down the mountain would have been cool.
09-12-2011, 07:46 PM
For those that still don't "get it", here is the concept charger in actual operation.
Hell, you must understand how it works by now...:sly:
But, I'm still getting questions, like "how can it be stopped, if the engine is still running"....CUZ IT CAN :p...Air is the "example" of a compressable gas..:frustration:
10-14-2011, 06:15 AM
Everything's back to "tip-top" condition so, "escape the badlands", with Dr. DRE,
10-14-2011, 08:06 AM
did you have to make the log bridge or was it there?....glad there's no wipeouts involved this time...excellent:D
10-15-2011, 02:00 PM
No wipeouts, 0 - damage. Took it real easy this time out.
Log bridge is not my work. I was crossing that washout with nothing there, until 2 weeks ago. MNR decided to block it off completly with some heavy equipment work. After they left...a "team" came out and "undid" what the MNR contracted out to close off. It's about a hundred Km of road acessed through here that they "wanted" blocked off....It didn't take.
10-17-2011, 10:07 AM
The Kumo's "up front", worked out great. 40PSI in the front, and they just "perch" on top of the rocks, and sand climbing is way better. Some hills that I couldn't climb before, well now I can. The fronts float on top of the sand, instead of trying to "dig-in", bog down...The rears still "conform/absorb" over rocks and such but dig way too much on the hard packed gravel. If I hammer down, I just leave two, 2" deep ruts behind me. Great for showing off, but not for climbing "high-speed" open road hills. Can't acc on the open road unless I'm in 4WD, but that saps 10% PWR, on it's own..:confused:...Ladder-bars, maybe...
This one's for Iron...80's TECHNO FUNK...
I forgot that such a thing existed...:rolleyes:
10-18-2011, 09:58 AM
NICE! :D Have you ever wanted to install a chainsaw across the front of the truck to cut down all that scrub brush?
10-18-2011, 02:57 PM
Hell yes, but can't do any maintanance on the route at all, or just enough to get through the 7km that ends at this particular lake. Trophy size 18"+ small mouth.
Nobody that knows about it wants any improvements at all.
10-19-2011, 08:09 AM
Nice! I found a lake that is apparently undiscovered by anyone with a fishing pole that has nothing but walleye and largemouth in it... I fished with worms and a bobber and only caught baby bass. No perch, no sunnies, nothing but bass and walleye :) I'm not doing any trailblazing to that sucker either :D
10-27-2011, 07:31 PM
Yea, you gotta keep these secret spots secret. I knew about this place from 25 years ago, when my uncle brought me in there. Crawled in with his International Scout (Deliverance), fully modified; runs in the family. A few campers and fished out, but there was something about the place, and I remembered how to get in there. Now, impossible to get a trailer in there, and I've got the only hunt camp around, right on the beach. Only a few people show up "now and then" (ATV's pulling car-tops), to hook the starving monsters. :D
The best part; too difficult for the MNR to get in there to "Tag-Me", 21days, my ass.:sly: "Still not loven police".
Back to the build:
Been keeping my eyes open locally for a used Arctic Cat 12" wheel (or bolt-on equivalent) to replace my front destroyed one, and put the Titan 489's back into use; on the front. "Ride like marshmellows":p....great for the high-speed section, 95km commute on gravel. Can't beat the ride. Then, the other day thinking about where I could find one, I realized that there is a stock one sitting on top of my gas tank.:eek: Funny, about these revelations. :frustration:....Fixed.
Thought it would be of note to mention, that my boost level prediction, from way back when, was bang on.
@ WOT:___________Idle being set @ 950...or @ 2000
Idle to 2500RPM-3PSI
Had it up to 8500RPM...ONCE:eek:.....7PSI
Interesting to note that the Asin AMR reaches full practical VE above 6TRPM, and that there is no need to spin these suckers at the 18TRPM, to get the full potential, as quoted elsewhere.
Low RPM, low boost...high RPM, high boost. Worked out perfect. I wouldn't change anything. Just...maybe, water-meth to NOZ injection:cool:
Getting tired of the videos, maybe a few more, SAND, HYWAY. Need to come up with a few more mods, for the winter "in-the-shop" season.:cool: Altenator-belt-wrap, Front-slider, Front-axle-MTC, MFP-theme-decals, and NOZ. Need a few more, to occupy 6 months of work, or go back to "work".:( (been on mini-truck sabbatical, yayyy) Working in the winter, sucks, but, working in the summer sucks....MORE.
10-28-2011, 06:18 AM
love the last pic...sweet spot....that progressive boost you're getting is perfect..
here's a little something to help you for the winter...realistic paper model mad maxx download of both MFP Interceptors...:D
10-30-2011, 07:31 AM
Thanks Fupa, those are some wicked paint jobs.
I'm looking forward to getting it all put together.
This winter shop time is going to be very busy, good times.
01-25-2012, 04:02 PM
So, I'm very excited to let you know that I'm almost finished with the carb investigation for my suzuki carry. I've got the mikuni 77 series with the 2+3 vacuum line conections.
I always had problems with this carb from day 1. It was always running too rich and the air/mixture screew did not seem to make any difference at all for idle or wot. After removing the carb and making a full study of it, I considered getting a kit for it, or even just buying a "rebuilt" carb from the same vendors. What I decided to do was the same thing that I have always done with any carburetor, I sent it to a shop that works on nothing but carburetors. Like I mentioned in another thread, they were almost insulted that I offered to put them in touch with a vendor that had "parts"; "this is what we do, everyday".
This carb has had seafoam and a lot of attention in general, but the one thing I could never get it to do was run leaner with better milage.
So, he calles me back today, it's done. It's been dipped, and all components were replaced with crossed parts from his stock. Aparently it was very dirty in general and the problem with the air screew was that all of the orings/seals were dry-rotted, so fuel was passing like it was set at max mixture.:D
I'm very excited to get it back and should take about 3days; just down the street from fupa. I've set the links below for referance to the complete information. Not sure if I'm allowed to post the vendor information as they have nothing to do with mini trucks or this site.
Full carb adjustment and vacuum line routing
Choke system function and adjustment
Ho, yea...total bill...same price as a kit...:D
01-25-2012, 08:30 PM
Carburetor Rebuilders Co. Ltd.
60 Eugene St.
Don is the guy to talk to, but I can tell you what he's going to say;
"give me the carb, and I'll call you when It's done"....
Let's see if the moderators will let it stand....:pop:
01-30-2012, 06:27 PM
Carb came back...:D Easyest rebuild I've ever done...
02-04-2012, 08:47 PM
So after a few years of fooling around with the truck and replacing just about every vacuum line on the truck. I find another vacuum leak. :frustration:
I never did test the control lines off of the VSV controler. When I turned on the lights, the idle went up so I figured the system was fine...wrong.
Last part of looking at the carb after it came back from the rebuilders. He just does the carbs, not the actuators. This might be why my engine idle went down every time I turned on the AC. I have the two port VSV and the second vacuum control switch, some just have the one...no AC...:confused:
Anyway, the actuator has two diaframs for two separate controlers...talk about being over engineered. Two separate load requirements, to prevent the rpm from changing....depending on the requirement one pulls about 75% compared to the otherside.
So the carb actualy as 4 vacuum controled diaframs...:eek:
1 for the choke 85% position, 1 for the idle-up controler, 1 for alternator engine load, and one for the air conditioner engine load. My ac load diafram was cracked and sucking air evertime I turned it on.
Quick fix, both controlers to one diafram...
02-06-2012, 06:35 PM
Got the carb installed today, kinda. What a pain in the @ss. A little more involved than you're average DD51t. Your two standard mounting points, plus a mounting plate, plus three gaskets, plus the spacer...and then you got the 4 M6's that are just about impossible to get a wrench on...quarter turn...flip wrench...quarter turn...flip wrench...X4...X 3/4 inch...:frustration:
Last time I say, for the 5th time, last time...:mad:
Took me almost 4 hours to hook-up the coolent lines and run-in those bolts..but worth it. Not even adjusted yet and it fired right up, and no more hesitation, none. That rebuild did the trick. Instant power now, revs right up, and after running for about 10 minutes, I can tell that the engine is running a lot leaner, a lot leaner. It's happy now...and me too...:cool:
I'll keep plugging away at it, but kind'a sucks when you have to shovel out your shop bay...:o
02-17-2012, 02:31 PM
I'm going to start posting more on this thread cu'z as I find out different solutions, guys do not use the search function anyway.:confused:
1) Completed testing of the VSV controler. There are two completely different systems here. The A/C and the Accessories. Each system was checked for individual vacuum "pull", under system engagement. It was my A/C diaphragm that was cracked and leaking vacuum whenever the A/C system was turned on. Two posts up^, I was going to "T" the systems together, but that caused a whole bunch of problems, as each system dumps to atmo when de-energized. I just eliminated the A/C-up, and set the remaining system the way I want it to work. Just the Acc-up remains, and it is now set to give 2TRPM if:
a) the rad cooling fan comes ON
b) the interior fan is selected to "HI", lower selections do not activate the system
c) the park lights are turned ON, second position to headlights, will drop RPM to 1800 due to alt loading
When I use the A/C system, I will either turn ON the park lights or, select fan to HI. The A/C switching components I will re-task to the water-meth system for solution to other problems that I have uncovered.
Driving, park lights ON, 2TRPM+ to compensate for the 14deg BTDC boosting base setting.
The more the fuel, the more the advance (time-to-burn), the higher the base RPM (snap-lag).
2) After eliminating almost all of the WOT snap-lag, through carb rebuilding and tuning and other measures, as above. I've found that the distributor check valve was reverced, preventing any vacuum advance at low RPM and WOT (fly-weights-advance above 3TRPM). It worked out well anyway, as all other tuning was employed prior to finding this problem, so it is now the best it could possibly get, and it is snappy now. I tuned out the lag below 3TRPM, but now it's snappy. From reading the theory, the check valve is required to prevent snap-back and back-firing under certain conditions, the system requires a "retard" delay.
3) The water-meth system is very simple in it's design, in that it injects higher octane methanol and water into the system to help aid in a slower burn and, to prevent combustion prior to ignition due to compression heating, as well as scavenge latent heat. "Change of state", of H2o or "chemical intercooler". The charger dosen't even get warm. It needs this as it is the 10.5 to 1 compression ratio and the charger is putting out 7PSI. Even running with 91. You either lower compression, or you run meth. Lower compression=lower power. There is a lot of theory in previous posts and on the net.I had just filled the bottle and disconected the controler, to tune the idle settings on the carb, when I noticed, after an hour, that the bottle was no longer full. I have a simple injection with this system, and thought that a check valve and filter would prevent any syphoning through the system of the injector. It did not. It was actually syphoning it right out of the bottle. The engine sure likes it. It ran about a 1/2L through it in an hour, at idle. Unpluged it and got 300RPM+ at idle. I run the 50/50 windshield washer fluid. I'll setup the re-purposed A/C vacuum control switch here when I get a chance.
It's amazing that the truck performed as well as it did in the past, with all of these little problems. Just makes me look forward to next season all that much more.
02-18-2012, 04:30 PM
02-19-2012, 02:50 AM
Looks like a test of how much fun you can have in snow. Lol
02-20-2012, 05:44 PM
Omg that was so full epic read from page 1 and now I want one would be so neat with camoplast track to go to my fishing holes on the lake. Would be faster then 60 km/h ... now I need a mini I don't just want one.
02-20-2012, 07:54 PM
That must have taken you three days clint..wedge
Camera sucks but hey, what you gonna do...
Death wobble at 125.
Definitely the rack for the next project.
02-20-2012, 09:08 PM
just a around 2 hrs on and off but I know some of this stuff already i mean the science behind your trials and all ,because Im building a Twin turbo Datsun Z.
03-11-2012, 01:46 PM
Found this little gem while researching alt/accessories momentary cut-out systems.
+20% hp for us little engine guys.
This was under general engine health, and thought I would add it to the "to-do" list.
03-11-2012, 10:48 PM
I've seen a few of those kits for sale in different places before...not sure about the 25% fuel economy increase but it is still a worthwhile project...a clean-out valve would be a good addition to the set-up...good find :)
regarding your alt. cut out..have you considered a vacuum controlled switch so the alt. only engages under higher vacuum condition (lifted throttle ,idle)
03-12-2012, 08:50 AM
Yea, I think it's worth while for kei trucks in general. I don't believe in the 25% either, but I do buy into the engine health side of the concept. Oil sludge is being diverted from re-entering the intake of the engine. Or a small percentage anyway.
ACV- Auxilliary Crankcase Ventilation. How does the EPA feel about me just slapping an out-flow filter onto that bad boy? No intake connection, "tractor style"... hehehe, I'm bad, I'm bad...
As far as the alt is concerned, a little more R of the R&D than I really wanted to do, but time well spent.
Controlling, as you mentioned, will be hooked into the existing vacuum sensor for the S/C system, not a problem.
It's the switching. A control via the main line will almost certainly get you a fried regulator. Field control will work on systems that are not "self generating" once exited. But mostly, it's a big pain in the butt.
I did read about an ingenious solution from a guy that was using a self generating alt. BTW, these alts run a "voltage sense" line in place of a regulator "power line", non-switchable, switchable. Anyway, what he did was to switch in a 14.5V drill batt, that fooled the alt into dropping load, as the system was "sensed" to be "fully charged".
Just ingenious, and batt stays "topped-up", 14.6 to 14.5, with no load. Smart.
For those wondering, nothing is for free, a cut-out system just drops load to the batt for a short period of time to make the HP available for use, passing, hill climb..etc. Add the AC on, to that, and it's quite a lot of HP being kept out of the mud hole.
Anyway, interesting stuff...
03-12-2012, 01:55 PM
I've bin a bad, bad boy...
This is a racing truck, right?
Just bought a whole bunch of stuff from them, not cheap, but nice perfect fitting products.
OCV - remote mount filter
54mm oval intake, with BAG,,,:cool:
03-13-2012, 03:48 PM
Nope, that's a self-excited alt that I have. Just tried to drop the load by pulling the plug. :frustration:
It will remain unloaded, if I pull it before start, but will not drop load after that. Hmmm, may come back to that later. Still shopping.
03-15-2012, 07:00 PM
Parts are on the way, but be careful guys, the internet is becoming a dangerous place to shop.
Clear your browser, weather it be Google Chrome, or EI 7 or 8, clear those cookies before proceeding to the next transaction.....
If you can see an advertisement that is even close to what you are looking for. Clear those cookies man. Before your bank information is gobbled up, and transacted before you want it to be.
:frustration::frustration::frustration: Faster than you can say High Jacked...Mother Fracktors are just waiting to gobble up your information...
03-18-2012, 12:09 AM
Just a quick update on the interceptor.
I lucked into a shop yesterday. Maybe surprising for some to learn that most of my mods are done on the sidewalk. Or, in rushed spurts, when I can borrow a shop for a few days. Usually everything has to be timed to start and finish "on-time". Life "up-north" and "on-the-move" is a little different for some things. Waited in-line for two years, and just lucked out. A single bay and even has power and a ceiling light. :cool:
I know, you guys just have no idea, but thought I'd mention it anyway.
Spring mods have been planed and I started on the steering rack yesterday. Bigger job that I would have thought. Although, having checked the boots on a regular basis, one of them had been cracked for a long time; years. Rack was completely full of rust and corroded. All of the teeth are there though, so it can, and will be rebuilt. I do recommend that everyone inspect their rack ASAP though. Easily done. Just remove the outer boot, one spring clip and one wire wrap. Takes 5 minutes. You will be able to tell the condition right away. I should have done this when I first got the truck, but I never saw THE crack. http://www.minitrucktalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8875&d=1304278172
Explains the "death wobble" at 125...
Anyway, a few things to look out for:
There is only one bushing on the rod and it is on the inner side. Mine had about 10thou play, way too much. Also, this bushing has "breather grooves" which cause corrosion tracts, and support issues. The outer side is pressed against the steering drive gear, "bushing like", but plastic parts, so be careful. The "shaft rider" is plastic, then the tension spring, then the threaded cap, which is also plastic; do not torque this "tensioner" beyond normal plastic integrity; it will fail. I plan on improving on, and replacing all of these components at the machine shop. The boots, West Shore Auto, AKA minitruck.ca AKA...the only problem that I have with these guys, is that I find quite a few websites, and names, and associations, but definitely my favorite vendor. Every time I call, they answer the phone, even when they are closed, they still talk to me, give me info, or solve my component issue outright. In three years, I have had nothing but great service from these guys. 5 Stars for OEM components. Local, CarQuest, but of course, my buddy works there.:cool:
Now, a few items from the diagram.
Obviously a low-speed unit, yet items 7 and 8 are both high-speed roller bearings. Why? Would brass bushing components not serve the function better? I will talk to the machinist, but I think that it is obvious. Brass is better than plastic, and I have an issue with the whole drive section anyway.
BTW, WARNING, item # 15, and the retainer nut, should NEVER be removed. It is not "keyed" and may damage components during disassembly. Regardless, it is not required to remove the shaft from the housing in the disassembly process...FYI....
Also, very important; my pit-man-arm has already been rebuilt, via pressed brass sleeve onto existing worn shaft. I took the "pin" measurement average myself with micrometer (10thou play), and it required two jacks to install. 400 miles later, still can't move it by hand, but it is "sweet" off the steering wheel...FYI...:cool:
ADDED, Sorry, forgot to add, backyard mechanics. How to remove #8 the needle bearing from the main housing. Dear old dad. Old school tricks. Place the housing in the freezer over-night and turn up the hot water heater, to the max. In the morning, run the hot water over the outside of the housing, using a tool like, "snap-on 3ASH"; hardened "pull-hook"; needle bearing slides right out...too easy...
03-18-2012, 12:57 AM
good post Spaner...do you see any adjustability in the rack plunger..or is it merely spring tension that keeps it pushed against the rack?
03-18-2012, 02:06 AM
Insightful question fupa, sometimes, you make me smile...:cool:...Like I'm not talk'in all retard, or something.
If owner X bought this truck new, and took really good care of it. He would have tightened the outer slider about every 100hr of operation; about 10 degrees. This would have taken extra good care of the inner bushing, that really makes up the bulk of the support for this rack system. Assuming that the boots were in A1 condition; of course. If the inner bushing is fee of contamination, and is kept "in-line", then the useful operation of the rack is extended to the 100,000 KM mark. BUT, if this, or similar consideration was not taken into account; then no amount of aftermarket adjustment will correct for the already FUBARED condition...a worn bushing, is a worn bushing;
AND needs to be rebuilt, and/or replaced...
03-18-2012, 10:29 AM
Lol answered with true Spaner eloquence..an answer and a solution..perfect :) your dad's freezing trick is the same one I use to install crank bearings on old Vespas..freeze the bearing overnight and it pops right into the outer case.
03-22-2012, 10:22 AM
Found this little gem while researching alt/accessories momentary cut-out systems.
+20% hp for us little engine guys.
HeeHee! That would get me almost to 40HP!
03-23-2012, 11:52 AM
Yup. It's surprising to me to read just how much bad info there is on the net. A lot of people are of the opinion that a set amount of hp is required to "spin" an alt, regardless of electrical load, or RPMs. This just is not true. For you pegers, I should think that your day-time-driving lights are just killing your MPG..fuel costs. One of those things that make me go "hmmm". The EPA is all about econo and emissions and fuel prices are outrageous, but the provence mandates everyone to drive around during the day with their lights ON??? Why don't we just turn on the street lights as well. Safety concern my @ss.
Drill a hole in the side and install a single LED.
Finished the steering rack rebuild. Just waiting for the boots to come in. Decided to just replace the shaft inner end main bushing, with a single keyed-top brass "slide fit". Machinist said tolerances were good on the rest. Greased with "red tack". With everything back together, it's like new, very tight. With boots, rebuild is about $200.
Wanted to put a spacer on the top of the pitman arm, but can't get it off. That one was too good.
03-24-2012, 01:56 PM
Worked a bit more on the air systems.
Two breathers off the valve cover PCV. One hose off the cover runs through PCV valve direct to intake manifold. The other larger free-flow hose runs direct to the air filter box. K&N OCV filter is on the way for one port off the valve cover, second valve cover port and intake manifold port will both be "capped" with blow-off sleeves.
Also, took apart the OEM air box to confirm vacuum line functions, before installing custom K&N air intake filter (mass air flow increase). Found my first "made in canada" part. The hot air flow controller. Consisting of two outside lines (side-by-side) and one inside "sense" line, placed in the direct "in flow air" plenum. Also, a "T"ed vacuum line plumed to an internal "cap-valve" with thermal components.
I don't want to get too complicated, suffice to say, that if you are not running OEM air box and/or exhaust heater hoses are not in place, things are not going to operate the way they were designed to. When things are all warmed up, the capped valve opens the line, sucking in air from the box. This dumps the air flow valve to strait air, and also leans the engine by doing so. Hope that's not too hard to understand.
Anyway, changing mine to the K&N system, the vacuum line will be plumed to the filter with check-valve only. No loss of boost, sightly leaner during cruise, slightly richer during boost.
Will the fun with this toy never end? :cool:
03-30-2012, 04:27 PM
Parts are starting to come in now. Boots are in, rack is done. Thanks West Shore.
The Interceptor meets the Performance brothers, Jamar and Jomar. One is a bit of a "stickler", the other, you can't get around him. heh heh...:pop:
Let the build begin.
Progress to follow...
03-31-2012, 05:59 AM
Hmm that looks suspiciously like a sand rail cutting brake....sweet :)
03-31-2012, 10:38 AM
That's the Jamar unit for the front. To be used for a Manual Traction Control. Tight donuts as well :)
I've got quite a few hours into it already. Changing metric line ends over to standard, double flare to pipe to 90s.
Stuff like that, just tedious.
04-01-2012, 07:54 PM
Here is the unit ready to be installed:
And, here is the Jomar component.
If you search "jomar performance" and look into their oil filter, they have a nice little write-up about by-pass elimination in conjunction with oversize application. Lots of stuff on the net about it, including the application cross to hydraulic filtration vs lube (auto oil). Interesting stuff. This is the WIX cross.
Filter most of the oil most of the time, and by-pass some of the oil some of the time, or just filter it all, all of the time.
04-02-2012, 09:36 PM
04-03-2012, 06:27 AM
Can't wait to see those brakes in action...I like the idea of a larger filter,and will be speccing one out for my truck once I fine some time...
04-03-2012, 06:51 PM
Another one bites the dust...
Does it work?
HELL YES. Better than I thought it would. Over sized for sand rails and rock climbers so, just a little pressure on the lever will put some friction on there. Steering wheel, not required. A two finger pull will lock-up the right at 20k, but it is very much a "feed back system". The lever tells me what's going on and I can "feel" the condition. Pressing the brake pedal, under brake-boost, will "over-power" the brake-lever, and it is forced into the "neutral" position. Can't fight it. Not sure how to "shoot" the MTC aspect. I'm thinking; chain the truck and jack the rear in 4WD, and "flip-flop" the fronts. A "one front spinning" condition, is no longer a factor for the interceptor. Donuts are dam wicked too now. Just rotates around one front tire; tight. Either or. Way more versatile than a "lunch-box-locker". Way more fun too...:cool:
Next up; a hand full of mods, 4130.
One, will space the steering. The other two, will mount the slider, where no one has thought to mount from before.
Are they the same? Close...
04-03-2012, 07:58 PM
i have to say that this is the best tread on here spaner ur always coming up with a new mod everytime i get on but on a diff. not thanks for the rebuild info on the steering my needs it
04-03-2012, 09:01 PM
I'm on to the slider...then Summer...
After May 24, I won't be around much, so feel free to ask any questions
04-04-2012, 05:10 PM
Found a few more ponies in the K&N, 5+. I decided to eliminate that one vacuum line running to the stock air filter housing. Just runs better.
Donuts are so much fun now. I can stay in one spot and spin fast enough to get the diff lock to go auto-off. Giggles...
No problems with the custom oil filter.
Slider should be done in a week or so.
04-05-2012, 06:05 AM
I've been talking about doing a slider for the truck for quite a while. Just haven't gotten around to it. Higher priorities.
Just realized, that no one has asked me why call it a "slider"? Isn't that the same as a "skid plate"?
No, it's not. I wanted something that would slide the front end up ditches or hill faces. My own design for this application but I did get the idea from a combine, years ago.
Welcome to the world of UHMWPE self-lubricating polyethylene (TIVAR)
From hockey rinks to bushings, this stuff is everywhere.
04-05-2012, 06:53 AM
Where can you buy that stuff?
04-05-2012, 05:46 PM
Not sure in your province but I've got a few emails out to different plastic corps in the Toronto area. I was trying to source a half sheet, like 24" x 96", but now I think that I'm going to just go with a full sheet of "Tivar ECO", or some "88"...Grainger Supply can bring in full sheets, (48" x 96") or (48" x 120").
Stuff's not cheap but, none of my mods are.
04-05-2012, 06:59 PM
So, you guys aren't going to believe me, but I'll tell the story anyway.:pop:
My buddy pops by today to check up on me and we get to talking about the K&N aspect of the spring mods. K&N this and that, he says "no way, you got 5+ HP out of that little motor", and I says, "well, I just checked it in the yard here" (about 400 yards of room) "and it seems good". He's one of those K&N haters. So enough is enough, and despite having a half built slider hanging off the front of the truck, and no front cover(bumper). We take it out onto the highway.
Well, after first gear, we're both doing the "googly eyes" thing. That's not 5+ HP man. I don't know what I did. K&N master lung, eliminated a vacuum line, opened the crank case, and put a custom oil filter on it. That's about it but 0 to 80 is down to about 7 seconds and the truck sounds like a friggin kazoo on acid, not exaggerating. First time that I've been concerned about blowing the engine. I figure, the crank case was getting pressurised, and the stock air breather was choking-up-the-works? I don't know, I guess I'll have to do another video to be believed.
So, we get back, and I say "so what do you think about K&N now"? and he says "well, it worked for your truck but, they don't work on dodges..." Go figure...
Anyway, Slider Progress...
This is the pitman arm spacer...
One of the spacer bushings on the mounting rod.
RH mounting bushing pressed into place. That's 4130, pressed into the frame rail...
Side rail mounted...
Side view, final mounting...
Front Slider spacing...
Now, I've got to weld up a whole bunch of vertical bolt mount supports, but gives you a good idea of what's going on...
04-10-2012, 08:38 AM
Was wondering if you could tell how you post those enlarged photos.. thanks for the tip on oil catch cans i might have a go at the one you were looking into.. made something similar and catching lots of water.
04-10-2012, 10:56 AM
04-10-2012, 09:13 PM
Addition for you pebble, I've seen a constructed unit from an aluminum water bottle. Drill the holes, one long tube, fill with shot, place wire mesh (screen) into neck, replace cap and plumb into place. # 21 for me as I have eliminated one of the breathers to custom K&N filter but, cannot see a way around the PCV valve. The crank gasses must be vented via pump, of some sort. The engine vacuum seems best, if the crud/oil can be redirected. I think that this is the best way to go.
Got one email back from southern Ontario. Joe @ Polyzone is very nice to deal with but, there is no way around it. Exotic materials are EXPENSIVE. Looks like it's going to be the DuraPro bed liner. Cost effective UHMWPE with a coefficient-of-friction of 0.12. Compared to DrySlide @ 0.09 and a few other products go as low as 0.08. That's comparing polished steel @ 100.00. The problem is that his product comes in sheets of 120" widths, but can be cut to length...like 31"..width vs length switch...looks like I'll be doing the full length of the truck @ 10 foot. No matter, damage has been costing me $ from day one. Crank shaft pulley, CV boots, front diff mounts, (bent to hell) oil pan dents, coolant rad deformation, transmission mounts, A-arm drag link mounts (as per previous post, bent-to-hell) etc, add infinitum. Money well spent, in the long run. Can you understand the kind of dynamic forces that can be achieved by catching a 5lb rock, from a center line suspension bounce at 120kph...could end up in the gas tank...
But, at 90 bucks a linear foot, plus tax, plus shipping, plus tax on the shipping...
Gonna be like 500 bucks before it's done...
Anyway, want to have a good laugh? Search pirate 4X4 for UHMWPE...guys are going on the cheap, and grabbing HDPE for their rock-crawling applications. You get what you pay for...3" thick applications being "ground-down" to 1/4" after a single summer service trail ride...
Oranges are not apples, and carbon is not plastic, and polycarbonate is not polyethylene and HDPE is not UHMWPE...
Learn that sh!t...
04-21-2012, 07:04 AM
I managed to make a deal with the above supplier for a custom cut piece of Tivar-eco. 1/4"x31"x60" for $220 to the door. Just took pity on me. They usually sell by the 10s to 100s of linear feet to manufacturers that make the end user products. Like control arm deflectors for just about every ATV and side-by-side out there. At $300 for a set, I think that I'll make up my own, thanks anyway. Very difficult to find a retail-level supplier in Ontario for this stuff.
I should be getting it next week.
Side note for Grainger Supply. They have a US and a Canadian (Acklands) supply chain, and they don't cross product supply. So, can't get any in Canada but anyone in the US should be able to walk in the door and pick it up. I think it was $216 for a 1/4"x48"x96", with all dimensions available, in all Tivar application grade types (1000 vs Eco vs 88).
It'll be nice to be able to blow through ditches at speed and not have to worry about breaking something anymore...
04-21-2012, 01:03 PM
that's not a bad price delivered...can't wait to see the finished product :)
04-28-2012, 09:04 AM
04-28-2012, 11:38 AM
will you have to heat it to curve it like that or is it pliable enough on its own ? I see a high speed water crossing video in your future :)
04-28-2012, 09:45 PM
My dad calls it "the toboggan"...we're going to mount it under tension with a couple of herc straps. 1/2" might need some heat but I want to avoid that. Annealing will alter it's hardness properties. This stuff is suprisingly resistant to deformation. It will bend across it's length, either way, but can't deflect a corner more than 1/4".
As long as the truck is kept moving forward, the engine bay should stay dry even in deep water, deep sand should be no problem now as well...
It'll be fun testing it out.
04-30-2012, 05:21 PM
Yea, the engineering is starting to get a little out of control now. This usually happens when me and the old man get together to build a project. Doesn't happen too often though cu'z we just can't work together. A year and a half since the last one. He's more of a "we need to use some 1/2" walled high tensile square tubing here, and install it with the sledge hammer". I'm more of a "we need to use the micrometer to measure this and install it with the laser equipment". Funny, that we can be so different. Strangely enough, we both enjoy the work, and insight of the other, for two days, maybe three, then the yelling starts. 10082 Should be done by then, hopefully...
05-01-2012, 07:55 PM
That was a retarded amount of work...
05-01-2012, 08:30 PM
looks like some evil weapon from "Battlebots" bet it's strong as hell :)
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