Smoking KS4 Motors

[jliltd]

We've got a couple of Subarus. A 1992 and a 1996. Both engines started smoking after running a while. Both had tight air cleaner boxes and fresh filters. We are in a very dusty environment and are considering putting snorkel inlets on the motors to raise the incoming air flow above the dust.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t238/jliltd/Side2.jpg

The first one to smoke was the 1992 (with A/C), and it was smoking right off the bat. The importer sent us a serviceable engine on a pallet at no cost and we installed it and that was that. No more problems.

Then our next smoker, the 1996, started it's smoking. We've yet to replace that motor as it will cost us being that we've had it so long. I've got a couple of our guys using it in on the farm and they check the oil twice a day (it's easy to find them with their smoke system "on").

There has been speculation that the KS4 doesn't like getting "over-revved" but I don't know if this is true. The 1996's engine was run hard one time when getting a Suzuki Carry out of the mud and I'm suspicious that's when it happened.

Anybody else ever hear of smoking motors on Subarus?

[subiemech85]

the "normal" subarus respond well to being worked hard and flogged, the redline is just a suggestion, but you should be able to bury the tach.
if it ain't leaking, it's out of oil.
they hardly ever smoke, but the culprits are: cold engine, plugged pcv, defective lifters, scored pistons, worn rings, coolant leaks

[Colin]

What's the source of the smoking? Bad rings? Valve stem seals?

My Sambar leaks some oil out of (what appears to be) the cam seal, but it doesn't seem to burn any.

Colin

[jliltd]

One common theme we've found with the Subarus is the valve cover gasket leaking. If tightening doesn't work we just go back and remove the gasket, clean up the surfaces (with ether, xylol, Acetone or other volatile solvent) and then apply Permatex "Right Stuff" gasket maker to the clean surfaces. We then re-install the cover without over-tightening. Right Stuff can be found at your local Auto Zone and there is even a version for import engines that resists blow-out better than standard formula.

http://www.permatex.com/images/pages/theRightStuff.jpg

Lord help you if you ever have to remove the cover as this is incredible stuff. We use it for all sorts of other adhesive applications where nothing else will work.

[Colin]

Oh, good call.

I've got a Volvo (B234F) head on my Ford and I cannot get the seal between the head and cam carrier to stop leaking. I've been in there about three times now, and made sure to use the Permatex anaerobic sealer... keeps on leaking. I wonder how well The Right Stuff would work in that application.

Colin

[jliltd]

Oh, good call.

I've got a Volvo (B234F) head on my Ford and I cannot get the seal between the head and cam carrier to stop leaking. I've been in there about three times now, and made sure to use the Permatex anaerobic sealer... keeps on leaking. I wonder how well The Right Stuff would work in that application.

Colin

Colin:

I guess the thread is officially hijacked with a post like that. Be that as it may...

Not sure what the configuration looks like. If you are either running a bead or "butter spreading" it with a roller or nitrile gloves the Right Stuff should work great. The B234F there seems to be tricky to get right with an even spread. Volvo sells a special tool for spreading sealant on the cam carrier surfaces before assembly and is apparent some sort of tight-nap roller. I don't know if the Right Stuff is anaerobic or not. I doubt it. Maybe you should investigate some of Permatex's products like Motoseal 1:

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/specialty_gasket_maker/MotoSeal_1_Ultimate_Gasket_Maker_Grey.htm

[Colin]

Righto - thanks.