Suzuki Fuel Pump Wiring

[jliltd]

One of our Suzuki Carrys is having an electrical glitch that's affecting the fuel pump. No pump, no go. It's a 1990 model 600cc. Ground lead tests good continuity to ground. Can't get power on the positive lead.

Does anybody know if the power lead to the fuel pump come directly off the ignition switch ignition circuit or is there a relay in between? How about a fuse?

Is there such a thing as electrical schematic diagrams or the like for these?

It's driving us crazy. Got the whole dashboard out and gutted trying to chase wires and it's a major pain for one little item.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t238/jliltd/1990.jpg

Believe it or not, of all our Suzuki's this 1990 is the oldest and tightest of the bunch. It seems to drive and ride the best with plenty of pickup and go. We just can't let it go it's so much fun. Once again we have proved to ourselves many of the oldies are the goodies.

[Youngauto]

That`s a really nice Suzuki.

[Super Mini Trucks]

There is a relay located under the dash. They sometimes go bad & need replaced. There also is a fuse. There is not a manual or diagram in English but we are working on getting them translated. Nice truck in great shape.
mike

[minitruck.ca]

I had two of them shipped to me pump did not work. One of them I had to redo the two ground wires under the from bumper. The other one the relay under the dash had water in it from pressure washing. Took it out blew it out with compressed air and all was good.
Todd

[minidump]

i just bought a 1990 suzuki caRRY and it ran fine for 2 days then the fuel pump stopped working sometimes.
At first i just restarted the truck and that seemed to reset things for a while but then it would shut down again.
I could hear the pump ticking when it was working ,but no sound when it wasnt working and the truck would die.
I noticed a clicking sound under the dash that would click when the ignition was activated, run the pump for 2 seconds and then turn it ff if you didnt start the car. This is a safety relay that is supposed to turn on the pump(and off)
I took the relay out and open the plastic case. It looked fine so i banged it on the desk lightly and blew some air into it and re-installed it.
Car now works fine goin on 2 weeks.
________
SUZUKI KATANA HISTORY (http://www.suzuki-tech.com/wiki/Suzuki_Katana)

[Donald Andrews]

Go to http://www.lulu.com/content/2343144 for English wiring diagrams

[JRinTX]

I am having fuel pump problems on my 1992 Suzuki. I have unplugged the pump and jumpered 12V from the battery and the pump will not run (just a big spark! :(). Also, when I check the wires going to the pump (at the plug that I disconnected) there is no voltage, with the key switch on.

Has anyone replaced their pump with a generic 12V electric fuel pump?

Can someone give me details about the electrical supply to the fuel pump. Is there a fuse and/or relay? Where are they located? Any troubleshooting tips? I have an English manual ordered, waiting for it to arrive.

Thanks!

[DRW]

JR, sounds like your fuel pump has died and has become a direct short, probably blowing a fuse or cooked a relay and that is why you do not have 12V to the pump with the key on.Take the pump off the truck, then attach 12V to it from your battery.Take a 12V testlight and put the clamp on the negative terminal of the battery,then touch the housing of the pump with the probe end,I am betting you will see the testlight light up.You can also use an Ohmmeter, but more people probably have a 12V testlight than a multimeter.

[JRinTX]

DRW,

Thanks for the reply. I have put 12V to the pump from the battery, with it still on the truck. Did not run, just a big spark. I will remove the pump and check it with a multimeter. (I don't have a testlight...:o)

Do you know where the fuse or relay may be located. There is not a blown fuse in my fuse block. And I have not been successful in tracing the wiring....yet.

Any and all suggestions are helpful!

[DRW]

JR, the fuse box is on the left side of the steering column under the dash, pretty easy to see, I do not know where the fuel pump relay is or if one is actually used.The amp demand may not be enough to require one.

[JRinTX]

Anyone else have any info on the fuse and/or relay on a Suzuki fuel pump?

Why do you think these fuel pumps seem to fail? Could our gas be different (I know the gas that was in the trucks after shipping smelled VERY different from US gasoline!), not as much lubricity? Just wondering.

[DRW]

JR, I did not have much time last night, but I did notice that I can turn the ignition to run and you can hear the fuel pump working and when it stops there is a click coming from behind the instrument cluster area like a relay de-energizing.I did this several times and got the same results.Not much help I know.

[JRinTX]

Can anyone give me the exact location of the fuel pump relay on a 1992 Carry? I have a wiring diagram that shows a relay, but have not had any luck locating it!

[DarinRay]

Has anyone found the fuel pump relay? I have located the fuel cutoff relay looking through the brake reservoir opening in dash but not the fuel pump relay itself??? :( I have all the manuals but nowhere does it tell the location of relay. AWESOME BOOKS FOR SURE THOUGH http://www.lulu.com/content/2343144 but I still need help. Yeah I know I'm not the brightess bulb. :)

Darin

[Donald Andrews]

Its black, has one screw attachment. Has a coupler with four wires. Do not know the year of your vehicle but 90% is take out the speedo head and look left. About 6 inches to left of the removed speedo head. There were a few models that had it under the left set next to the coil.
Br,
Don

[DarinRay]

Thank you for the reply Don. This model is a 1992 and actually did find a relay under the left seat but actually had the wrong wire colors to be the fuel pump relay I think. :) ??? I hear the vacuum switch being activated next to the carb but now need to see if the relays are working. There was NO continuity between any of the leads on the relay ( 4 terminals ) in the left seat compartment but don't really know how to check to see if a relay is bad. :)

Question: Can I just hook up power full time to the fuel pump and not damage anything?

Darin

[Mighty Milt]

Thank you for the reply Don. This model is a 1992 and actually did find a relay under the left seat but actually had the wrong wire colors to be the fuel pump relay I think. :) ??? I hear the vacuum switch being activated next to the carb but now need to see if the relays are working. There was NO continuity between any of the leads on the relay ( 4 terminals ) in the left seat compartment but don't really know how to check to see if a relay is bad. :)

Question: Can I just hook up power full time to the fuel pump and not damage anything?

Darin


on most relays there will be a very simple scematic on the box, not all but most. here is a good diagram of the most commonly used bosch relay and one of my personal favorites. i have used these for everything from anti-theft kill switches to revlimiters to off-road lights and so on.



Internal Workings of Bosch relay: The following diagram shows what those external terminals are connected to on the inside of the relay. When there is no difference of potential (voltage) across terminals 85 and 86 (the coil), the relay's movable contact (connected to terminal 30) is held, by spring tension, against the electrical contact which is connected to terminal 87a (the normally closed contact). In other words, when no voltage is applied the the relay coil, terminal 87a is connected to terminal 30. When 12 volts is applied to the relay coil (terminals 85 and 86), the movable contact (connected to terminal 30) is pulled down/in by the electromagnet (coil) so that it physically contacts the electrical contact which is connected to terminal 87. Again, in other words, if battery voltage is applied to the relay coil (terminals 85 and 86) terminal 30 will be connected to terminal 87. The red dashed line shows the path in which electrical current flows from/through terminal 30 to the contact of terminal 87a when the relay coil is NOT energized. .

[DarinRay]

Bravo and thank you for the information. Great details and pics.

So really then on this relay with no schematic it should have continuity yes? At least across the coil which ever terminals that is. ?? I wonder if I can put a similar relay (4 prong) where this one is? Or just run power full time to pump. :) HMMMMM what do you think.

darin

[Mighty Milt]

if you want to run full power to the pump, just add a simple inline fuse to it from a keyed hot wire... as an additional anti-theft feature you could always put a small switch in the cab from the battery. if someone had the inclination to steal your truck they could crank on it all day but without flipping that switch they would never have fuel.

sure, you would be pissed when you came out in the morning to a truck with a dead battery, but you would still have a truck :D

[DarinRay]

Dang I think you may have just made everyone's brains go... Wow that is a GREAT idea for fixing problems and also a bonus of added security. Thanks again.

Darin

[Mighty Milt]

when i was a kid i had a VW bug. i wired a tach into it and strung a wire through the cab and back to the engine. as you know the pick-up wire runs to the negative side of the coil.

one day driving along, when i would stab the throttle and the car would start to buck. when i eased into it the car revved smoothly. it took me about a week to find the problem. the pick-up wire had gotten squished between the seat and seat track.

it was then that i came across my favorite anti-theft device. an alarm and installation was much more expensive than a toggle switch and a roll of primary wire. so in all my cars i used to interupt the tach pick-up wire to a small toggle under the seat or under the dash and over to a good ground. switch off; engine runs and tach works. switch on; the negative side of the coil is grounded and the engine will never spark with no ill effects to anything.

anyone can pop a hood and hot wire a motor from the battery to the coil and push start it and drive off. i had heard of people that would steal VW's by pulling off a tail light lens and running a wire from the tail light bulb to the coil so the could turn the car off by turning off the lights. when they wanted to start it they would turn on the lights and push start the car.

but, with the coil grounded they would never suspect a thing, and could try all the hot wiring shenanigans (i would have said tom-foolery but that started a riot last time) they want and never get away with my car.

[Don-in-Japan]

Just a sidenote here, as I don't believe most vehicles with carbs are wired in this fashion..

The fuel pump will prime for a few seconds on most EFI vehicles, but require a rotational signal from the distributor to continue to pump. It's just a built-in safety mechanism to prevent the pump from pumping when it is not needed. It's easy to test (if functioning correctly).. just turn the key to the on position, and after the pump primes, remove the distributor adjusting bolt(s), and turn it from side to side. You will hear the pump kick on and off as you do. Be careful though, it is possible to kick the engine over this way.

Not saying this is the problem, but it is a possibility. One vehicle I had which had a carb and electrical fuel pump was wired this way. An electronic pickup in the distributor is a good indication it may be wired as such.

[DarinRay]

WOW that little relay is in a terrible position. Took dash apart and that little bugger is still in the back and you can't even get a dang screwdriver on it. :( Well back to work getting this relay out. HOPE ITS BAD NOW. :)

Darin

[DarinRay]

The fuel pump relay checked out when testing on the bench.. 2 powers, 1 ground, and 1 power suppy to pump. dang thing clicked then 2 secs clicked during which it sent 12V to the terminal supplying power to pump. ???? What the? So I thought I will plug the relay back in and PRESTO it worked... pump click click then off just like it was suppose to. So now I figure maybe opening relay up cleaning contacts did the trick so i put the screw holding the relay back in and though I better just check the pump again. Turned key on and nothing. :( Took relay back off and checked power going TO the relay and saw 2 terminals supplying 12V again. ???? Plugged relay back in and it worked again. Longer story shortened a bit I left the relay hanging under the dash where I can reach it from the pedal area instead of taking the darn dash apart again and so far it still works. :)

Whats interesting too is that really the only time you need the relay to kick the pump off is if you leave the key in the one position because when it's running the pump is always clicking. I think i would of been fine just directly running power to the pump. Especially like LawnGasCaulk said. Oh well you live and TRY to learn. :)

Darin

[Mighty Milt]

The fuel pump relay checked out when testing on the bench.. 2 powers, 1 ground, and 1 power suppy to pump. dang thing clicked then 2 secs clicked during which it sent 12V to the terminal supplying power to pump. ???? What the? So I thought I will plug the relay back in and PRESTO it worked... pump click click then off just like it was suppose to. So now I figure maybe opening relay up cleaning contacts did the trick so i put the screw holding the relay back in and though I better just check the pump again. Turned key on and nothing. :( Took relay back off and checked power going TO the relay and saw 2 terminals supplying 12V again. ???? Plugged relay back in and it worked again. Longer story shortened a bit I left the relay hanging under the dash where I can reach it from the pedal area instead of taking the darn dash apart again and so far it still works. :)

Whats interesting too is that really the only time you need the relay to kick the pump off is if you leave the key in the one position because when it's running the pump is always clicking. I think i would of been fine just directly running power to the pump. Especially like LawnGasCaulk said. Oh well you live and TRY to learn. :)

Darin


you can always add to my rep power if you like my ideas :D... lol just glad i could help

cheers
milt

[DarinRay]

Heck yeah I like your ideas for sure. I actually was looking to see how that rep power thing worked but can't figure that out either. :(

[ohms]

The main problem of the fuel pump was the electronic circuit inside the pump especially when u buy a generic one. The circuit cannot hold the hi temp of the pump and it will burn-out. that was we will be aware of. the over heating of he pump will soon iginite the gasoline tank of the car. we must replace an original part to be safe.I nearly got an accident on this. ohmslawpc@yahoo.com.

[Donald Andrews]

What? That is the silliest thing I’ve ever heard in 40 years of being a mechanic. “The circuit can not hold the hi temp of the pump and will ignite the gasoline tank”? Come on, bad advice is dangerous advice. Fusible links would melt long before a pump could even get close to getting hot enough to do damage. The circuit on these trucks (ok, relay’s in a bad spot) is so simple any pro can trace it in a few minutes. For safety sake take it to a reputable garage and run the circuit.

[Scrumoftheearth]

I can send you a picture of the diagrams for the truck or van send me an email at newsavedone@hotmail.com
Use windows fax and picture viewer to enlarge so you can see them.
Where do you upload pictures on this forum?

[schlempfunkle]

Replaced the relay per this thread but still sputtered to a stop after a few seconds. Ripped apart the old pump trying to get it to tick and bought a generic pump at Knecht's Auto Parts. Nothing after hooking it up. I took a full fuel filter(they've tested fine this whole time) from the back and hooked it up straight to the carb and it ran for 15 seconds on that fuel. One line to the pump reads plenty of power.


Do I have a clogged fuel line, another fuel filter unchecked, or a new shorted pump?



oh uh:91'carry660.

[schlempfunkle]

Replaced the relay per this thread but still sputtered to a stop after a few seconds. Ripped apart the old pump trying to get it to tick and bought a generic pump at Knecht's Auto Parts. Nothing after hooking it up. I took a full fuel filter(they've tested fine this whole time) from the back and hooked it up straight to the carb and it ran for 15 seconds on that fuel. One line to the pump reads plenty of power.


Do I have a clogged fuel line, or a new shorted pump? new pump is silent.
n


oh uh:91'carry660.

[Donald Andrews]

The fuel pump relay is controlled by the Fast Idle Controler. It is inturn controlled by the vacuum switch next to the carb. Check your vacuum lines for holes or cracks. The fuel pump does NOT run constantly, only when the pressure drops below the pressure level. Running the pump constantly will set the system off and will shut down the pump.

Cheers,
Don

[schlempfunkle]

I stole some power from the wipers to get the truck to start and run it into the garage. Now I am thinking that my pump,filters, and relay are all fine. I am not convinced that this car is complicated enough to run off a vac tube, I speculate that it is off a tac sensor. either way the truck wont maintain the fuel pump after its started.

[gadgetjon]

my fuel pump has been getting worse so I finally took it apart and found what looked like worn ignition points or some kind of relay inside. I've replaced it with a larger mitsubishi pump, but it doesn't have the same size hose fittings so I had to rig some adapters. Is there a generic pump that will plug right in to the fuel line? I can rewire it easily if I have to. most of the ones I'm seeing online have hard NPT fittings.

[Joe Newberry]

Had the same problem with a 91 Suz. Used universal pump from A***zone, the lowest p.s.i. pump, came with small metal filter in inlet side. Used one of the bracket bolts and re-routed the lines a little. Use test light to find (+) other wire is the (-) . Has been a year and still working great. Hope this helps.:)

[schlempfunkle]

Instead of really finding the problem I bypassed the pump controller. After checking the fuel pump, wiring, and replacing the relay it still didn't work. So I bypassed whatever controlled the fuel pump by stealing some power from the wiper's hot line. works for now but is still missing some top end.

My symptom was the pump would run for 3 seconds after the key was turned to the on position then would go silent.


Anyone know where and what tells the relay for the fuel pump to turn on is?


I also replaced my pump with a generic one from a generic auto parts store. knects i think

http://picasaweb.google.com/grossnickle/Carry?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/grossnickle/20090629Grizzly?authkey=Gv1sRgCKzx37rynuyI_QE&feat=directlink
I cant seem to get my pictures to embed. Here is a link to my picasa web album

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UUXHGDowYx1eV1Ppz_aGRA?authkey=Gv1sRgCKzx37rynuyI_ QE&feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TbDC0FuHLUrkfc3chplJXA?authkey=Gv1sRgCKzx37rynuyI_ QE&feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cC_ai5kYF2VfG7mPkkz9Rg?authkey=Gv1sRgCKzx37rynuyI_ QE&feat=directlink

[odeb1956]

I can send you a picture of the diagrams for the truck or van send me an email at newsavedone@hotmail.com
Use windows fax and picture viewer to enlarge so you can see them.
Where do you upload pictures on this forum?

Hello
We were following this forum & are wondering if you could send us a copy of the wiring diagram??
I am not having any luck finding any...we have a 92 suzuki truck down & we need help with it....
thanks
deb

[fremontminitrucks]

I just purchased every mini truck manual from lulu.com and had them sent to lab doing our certification testing. You may want to check it out and just purchase a manual for your truck that way you can always have a reference. They were pretty cheap also, I think I paid 200.00 for all of them.

[jefro]

Lemme chime in with some safety info. Dunno about suzuki but many cars and trucks that have electric fuel pumps also have a roll over or crash sensor. There maybe be some connection to this issue in this thread. Be sure you don't remove or bypass such a sensor.

I also agree about some engines that need a crank sensor but most of these type of fuel pumps have an internal pressure sensor that allows for a set amout of pressure. I'd be unlikely to think there is a vacuum control that is part of the fuel pump. From what I see, the pump is a generic fuel pump with an internal pressure regulator. The max psi would be a function of the design and more important would be if carb or inject. A carb can only stand low pressure. EFI's usually go higher but are more range specific but also normally have a regulator near the throttle body or intake, along with a return.


Basically the point is, if you bypass any safety item and do turn over the pump may continue to run.

I saw a lot of these trucks when I lived in Japan. While I can speak common Japanesse I can not read Kanji or Katakana.

[Mr. Sparkle]

Hi,

Anyone one know where the relay is on a 93 Carry. I dug around a bit and couldn't find it. I just what to change my fuel filter and I understand that one needs to disconnect the relay or fuse first (I found no fuse labeled as such).

Thanks for any help.

[jefro]

You should not have electricity to the fuel pump when the ing switch is in the proper off position. Almost every tech book says to remove battery ground strap before you begin any repair. Good tip. Use safety glasses around batteries and be sure to be very careful with fuel. Do it outside and have someone there to use fire suppression or call 911.

You may or should have pressure left over from the fuel cap holding pressure.

[Mr. Sparkle]

Thanks for the reply.

Ok, so I should have some gas discharge when I disconnect the hose from the fuel filter. Can you estimate how much? Should I have something handy to to catch it (pail, bucket, etc.)? Also, should I also remove the gas cap?

Instead of disconnecting the pump relay while the truck is running (to use up all the fuel in the hose before changing the filter), as some have suggested, could I instead disconnect the ground terminal (pre-loosen it) and let the engine use the remaining fuel, or would this cause the vehicle to stop? I remember I used to start an old Toyota I had with a dead battery by getting a push and putting it into gear, so it was obviously not reliant on the battery to keep running. Not sure if the electronics in these newer vehicles is drastically different.

Thanks for your help - I am trying to de-noob myself!

[steve wardwell]

have a 94 and replaced the fuel pump with a generic and left the 3rd wire un connected.She ran well for a week.Then started to hydrolic and bind up when left overnite.She now blows white smoke when started and burns off (headgasket ?). the pump would stop at pressure at first but now I think not....does the white smoke only mean water or can it be unused fuel also ? any help?

[Scrumoftheearth]

White smoke usually means burning oil, smell it, if it's oil, you will know. If it is coolent, you will know as it will smell like that.

[Scrumoftheearth]

This link is about problems, not milage!
If you get 10-14 KM per liter, it is OK.
AC, fast excerilation and conjested traffick all have an effect.

PS Thye +am spell check dont work here, so no +itching about spelling, OK? :D

[piterix]

I have a 1990 Suzuki Carry, which I was letting warm up one day, started fine so I was clearing the snow off the truck and all of a sudden the truck stalled. I turned the key to restart it and noticed that the fuel pump was not ticking anymore, I could hear the relay under the dash though, but not sure what that means as I recall always hearing that.
Any ideas here, should I change that relay under the dash even though it still ticks a couple of seconds after I turn the ignition on or should I look at buying a new fuel pump??
I miss not driving my mini truck already, so please help!

[olddatsunfan]

Get the multimeter out turn the ignition on and see if you're getting 12V or so at the fuel pump first ....

[Scrumoftheearth]

Try changing the fuel filter first. (cheeper than other test)
Then I would check for power at the pump, if it's getting power, and not pumping, it's bad I would think.
Good luck, and please post the fix when you get it done. :D

[greg0187]

One thing to note is that you will only get 12v for a few seconds when the key is turned on. You should also get 12v while the engine is cranking. Some trucks may be different but usually this is the rule of thumb.

[piterix]

So I tried to see if there was 12v or so coming to the fuel pump with the key on, and never got anything, but I now read that you only get 12v when the key is first turned on or when the starter is turning. I checked and found that there is continuity from the battery to the white plug that connects the fuel pump seen in the pics. I'm thinking it might be the ground cable, but not sure where to find it.
Anyone know where the ground cable for the fuel pump is located for a 1990 Carry?
I will try and check if there is 12v at that connection when the starter is turning and hopefully that will narrow down if the fuel pump is good or bad!

I've also found the relay that ticks a few seconds after the key is turned on. I've attached a pic of it which is located behing the glove box. If it ticks a few seconds after the key is turned on, does this mean its still good?? and does this even have anything to do with the fuel pump. I'm thinking there might be a relay or fuse for the fuel pump but can't find it?

Any more advice, please let me know!

[Scrumoftheearth]

Greetings, Merry Christmus and a happy life ever after!
That connector in your picter of the pump, it has two connections, one is black wire, and the ground, The other is brown black and goes to the fuel pump relay.
If you put your meter probe in one and touck the frame, it should read continuity, and if it does, its the ground.
If you run a jumper wire from the fuel relay to one meter probe, and the other to the pump connection, you should get a continuity indication. That will test the wires. Also if you put the probes to the pump it's self, you should read continuity. If not its bad pump. Also put tester in one port of pump, and touch the case. If you read anything, its grounded, get new pump. You can also jumper a connection from battery hot and ground and the pump shoul operate for a second or two only. ALSO!!!!!! Is your carb a carb, or is it a fuel injector system? If its fuel injector, get a good mechenic that knows what they are doing. THEY MUST BE EFI QUAILIFIED. Good luck and may God Bless.

[Tinytoy]

:frustration::frustration:Can anyone verify if the relay posted by pitrix is the correct relay for a 90 carry. It is the relay that clicks when the key is turned to the run position.My truck started then died this am, pump shows continuity, ground to pump shows continuity, no power to pump that i can read.(arms are not long enough to reach ignition from underneath truck) The pump makes no clicking noise at all now when key is turned on

[Tinytoy]

Ok, thanks Piterix, that IS the fuel relay for a 90 Carry. To test I disconnected the white plug from bottom of relay then took 6' of wire placed it into the brown/ black wire port turned the ignition on then touched other end of jumper wire to positive post on battery and tick tick tick went the pump:) Talked to Jermey at Minibrutes and one hour later truck was running!
BTW relay can just pull off the brass post you don't have to undo any screws.

[piterix]

Really! So did you replace the relay!? and if so with what? Also you say you took the white plug out?? Are you talking about the one on the right of the picture I posted earlier?

[Tinytoy]

Really! So did you replace the relay!? and if so with what? Also you say you took the white plug out?? Are you talking about the one on the right of the picture I posted earlier?

Yes I replaced the relay. Minibrutes had one in stock. The relay is the one that you have the yellow arrow pointing at in your post.
Mine had a white connector coming into the bottom, yours is black. undo the black connector on your relay and look for the brown and black wire. Jumper power to that wire while the ignition is on. if pump clicks then relay is pooched

[piterix]

Tried it and it worked!! Heard the fuel pump go tick tick tick!! Music to my ears! So now I have to find another relay! I'm gonna try and get in touch with Minibrutes tomorrow and hopefully they can send one up to me. Do you know if another kind of relay will do? Like something you can buy and Canadian Tire or NAPA or something like that?

Anyways, Really happy to know that its just the relay!!
Thanks Tinytoy!

[Tinytoy]

yay us! If you wouldn't have posted that pic I would still be digging around behind the speedo:frustration::frustration: The guy who designed that was a frickin sadist! MightyMilt posted something on here about a boshe relay??? as a replacement.
HAPPY TRAILS:)

[slowpoke]

I have a question,i recently bought a 95 carry,and everything was fine for a week or so,then the fuel pump started making a ticking sound.Is it fixing to go out,and will a domestic fuel pump work to replace the stock?thanks..

[Tinytoy]

On the carbed suzi's the pump always makes a clicking sound when opperating.Turn key on with all accessories off and you should hear a click,click,click. When it is running it should click constantly:o. No noise =problems

[slowpoke]

Thanks tiny,i went out and you are right,after furture investigation,i have got a stick lodged between the fuel pump and the frame,it was pushing the fuel pump up just enough to viberate against the bed.the stick brock off flush so i would have never noticed it.Had i not been told about the normal click.every thing works great now,thanks again tiny

[Ron C]

Hey guys i am new to the forum. i have the same problem as everyone else with the fuel pump relay. ( i think) i found what i believe is the relay but it is a sealed unit and the prongs are not like the one in might milts diagram. could i have the wrong relay? i have a carry 600-1990 dump truck. Thanks , Ron C

[Tinytoy]

Yes I replaced the relay. Minibrutes had one in stock. The relay is the one that you have the yellow arrow pointing at in your post.
Mine had a white connector coming into the bottom, yours is black. undo the black connector on your relay and look for the brown and black wire. Jumper power to that wire while the ignition is on. if pump clicks then relay is pooched

Go back to Piterix post with the pics in it. That is the relay and this is how I checked it.

[Ron C]

thanks tinytoy for your help.

[batmbljesse]

my pump failed off road so in a hurry put a 30$ universal pump 7-15psi in worked great 2 mo and failed again replaced it and it did the same 3mo later my solution i fabed a fuel pump bracket that lowered pump 3-4 in w/inlet towards ground, this asures when fuel pump turns on its sitting in fuel w/no air bubles it has worked perfect 3yrs now and i have pushed my lil ripper so every extrem possible i cross 3-4 ft rivers rock crawl plow snow and use it for my construction biz

[batmbljesse]

i had multiple fuel relay issues got sick of tryin to figure it out so i used starter relay activated by ignition with dash switch( to shut it off with truck on) when engine running i leave the pump on always exes fuel returns to tank, and circulates fuel better. works great since then 2yrs ago

[kelly]

Does the relay have anything to do with the mini trucks loosing it's power. It seems like after I shift from 3rd to 4th it looses its power. really notice it when going up hills. Thanks. PS have changed the fuel filters, checked the air filter and changed the plugs.
Kelly

[Tinytoy]

Does the relay have anything to do with the mini trucks loosing it's power. It seems like after I shift from 3rd to 4th it looses its power. really notice it when going up hills. Thanks. PS have changed the fuel filters, checked the air filter and changed the plugs.
Kelly

The relay will allow the pump to work, or not work. That is all. 4th gear is tall. You are dealing with 38ish HP. Have you done plugs,wires and dist cap? You can have a plug wire that is grounding every once in a while or a bad cap.

[kelly]

This is a 1991 suzuki carry 4 speed. thanks I will try your suggestions.
Kelly

[kelly]

Tinytoy

Thanks for the advice changes plugs, dist cap, plug wires and rotor. runs like a new one.
Kelly

[sugarul]

Ok, thanks Piterix, that IS the fuel relay for a 90 Carry. To test I disconnected the white plug from bottom of relay then took 6' of wire placed it into the brown/ black wire port turned the ignition on then touched other end of jumper wire to positive post on battery and tick tick tick went the pump Talked to Jermey at Minibrutes and one hour later truck was running!
BTW relay can just pull off the brass post you don't have to undo any screws.
Originally Posted by Tinytoy
Yes I replaced the relay. Minibrutes had one in stock. The relay is the one that you have the yellow arrow pointing at in your post.
Mine had a white connector coming into the bottom, yours is black. undo the black connector on your relay and look for the brown and black wire. Jumper power to that wire while the ignition is on. if pump clicks then relay is poochedThank you so much..Ive been working on my little carry for 2 days now..thanks I Found this..and it works! thank you! thank you! thank you!

[Tinytoy]

You don't have to replace the relay if you cant find one. My second relay bit the big one so now I have a 12v toggle switch that operates the pump... so far so good running with no relay.