I know this is an old thread but seemed like the best option to get my mini running again. Getting ready to do the Rhino carb swap on my Carry. Got a Mikuni flange to adapt the carb to the intake; pressure regulator and the choke cable. Just got the carb today and will likely do the swap over the weekend, weather permitting. @SDK1968 do you remember if you only had the one vacuum line going out to the distributor? Any quirky things you remember form when you did your old truck? Thanks.
OK a couple of things First make a bracket to mount the stock air filter to the motor mount! The engine Moves alot and the flex to the air cleaner makes an issue down the road! Yes there is One vac line at the carb mount on the manifold, that goes to the distributor There is a larger port farther up the manifold for the 4wd system Thats it No other vac crap needed! Unfortunately You will have jetting issues! Check that the Jets are even drilled! I have a Harley carb and a Rhino and gave up! I have a 40mm Mikuni (off a DR650) But I have the Best results with the 33mm Mikuni off a Polaris 500
@KCCats , thanks for the tips. Got the original carb removed yesterday and also got the two sets of coolant lines "U-turned". The truck sat for a long while and I've got to empty the fuel tank. I used a hand siphon to get the majority and now using the fuel pump to get the rest. I have another fuel filter ready to replace. Compression is good in all cylinders. I expect this thing to start right up with some fresh gas or at least give me some signs of life. Since I only use this mini on the farm (no road use), I just need it to start and run reliably.
Mine cranks a long time before it starts, but then again I don't use it every week! I had put a primer on mine (just like a snowmobile) to start it after a few months Just be aware of the air cleaner and motor movement The flex hose from mine split
Looks like I received the wrong carb from Amazon. On the one I got, the throttle cable housing butts up tight to the back of the alternator. I guess I could use a piece of pvc pipe and some rubber boots to move it away from the manifold. Either that or replace it one from a Grizzly so the throttle housing is on the opposite side. Ugh, was hoping to breathe some life into my mini this weekend.
The classer you get to the manifold the better! I even have a much larger Alternator! Note the bracket!
OK, got the Rhino installed with an inline pressure regulator (dialed in at 2) and blocked off all non-essential vacuum lines. Have not installed either throttle or choke cable yet. Put in fresh gas, a little ether spray and turned the key. What?!? She fired right up! Haven't heard this thing run in a very long time. Throttle response is crap right now; bogs way down and stumbles. Will likely have to change jets. Any suggestions as to where to start? Damn! Does feel good to get this thing running again. I missed my little workhorse on the farm.
Depending on altitude and air filter~38-45 pilot, 140-155main should get you close and run well enough.
Found this while searching for info on jetting. Obviously it is meant for bikes but it likely applies as we swap in bike carbs. Thought it may be useful: For whatever reason it becomes necessary to re-jet a carburetor, it is without a doubt a nightmare if you do not have a procedure to follow. The following is nothing more than a technique, procedure, steps or whatever you want to call it to help identify and isolate the carburetor circuit involved. You can only begin re-jetting your carburetor if the following conditions are met: 1. Top end is in good condition. 2. Bottom end is in good condition. Crank seals. 3. Spark plugs, air filters, reeds and so on. If your motor is not mechanically sound, then all the jetting in the world will not help. With all of the above conditions met, you should be able to jet your carburetor following these steps: Step 1: DETERMINE THE CORRECT NEEDLE AND OR NEEDLE JET. Whether or not your carburetor is a MIKUNI or a KEIHIN, it does not matter. This is the most important step in jetting your carburetor--period! 1. Remove the main jet. 2. Place needle clip in mid-position. 3. Start motor and run it on the stand. Condition: Motor running and main jet out. Needle or needle jet is correct: Carburetor should run clean to approximately 3/4 throttle. From 3/4 throttle to full throttle, the motor should start to break up as a result of too rich condition. Correction: None needed. Condition: Needle or needle jet is too rich. Carburetor runs clean to approximately 1/2 throttle but breaks up before 3/4 throttle as a result of too rich condition. Correction: Mikuni replace needle jet with next leaner and test again. Keihin replace needle with next leaner diameter and test again. Condition: Needle or needle jet is too lean: Carburetor runs clean beyond 3/4 throttle and has an erratic throttle response. Correction: Mikuni replace needle jet with next richer and test again. Keihin replace needle with next richer diameter and test again. The emphasis here is to find the correct needle or needle jet diameter, which will allow more fuel to pass than is needed but not so much that the needle itself has no control below 3/4 throttle. Step 2: DETERMINE THE CORRECT PILOT JET. 1. Make sure the bike is warmed up if at all possible. 2. Main jet out. 3. Needle clip in mid position. 4. Turn air screw all the way in then 1/4 turn out. 5. Start motor and run it on the stand. 6. Adjust idle so the bike will just barely idle. Condition: Motor running and main jet out. PILOT JET CORRECT: With one hand on the throttle maintaining RPM at approximately 1/8 throttle, turn air screw 1/4 turn at a time clock wise until you bottom it out. Motor should become slightly erratic and you should have to play with throttle to maintain RPM. Start turning air screw counter clock wise, 1/4 turn at a time until you have reached 2 3/4 turns out. Between 1 1/4 and 2 1/4 turns, your motor should have reached its highest RPM maintaining a steady throttle. Adjust air screw again between 1 1/4 and 2 1/4 until you have determined highest RPM. Quick throttle response should be clean without bog. PILOT JET TOO RICH: RPM does not reach a peak between 1 1/4 and 2 1/4 turns, stays the same or keeps rising out to 2 3/4 turns. Correction: Mikuni replace pilot jet with next leaner and test again. Keihin replace pilot jet with next leaner and test again. PILOT JET TO LEAN: RPM does not become erratic and motor maintains throttle when air screw is turned all the way clockwise. Correction: Mikuni replace pilot jet with next richer and test again. Keihin replace pilot jet with next richer and test again. Remember, with a steady throttle approximately 1/8, there should be a distinct difference in RPM from 1 1/4 turns to 2 1/4 turns if the pilot jet is correct. The emphasis here is to find a pilot jet that will run crisp without bog and without the main jet. Step 3: DETERMINE THE CORRECT MAIN JET. The main jet selection process is easy once you have the correct needle diameter or needle jet. You now only have to correct a rich condition from 3/4 throttle on up and you know what a rich condition sounds like. Your pilot circuit is correct and without bog. 1. Replace main jet with one that is at least two sizes smaller. 2. Needle clip in mid position. 3. Start motor and run it on the stand. By replacing the main jet with one that is too small, you are looking for a condition that is too lean. You adjust your main jet from a too small to lean condition. Condition: Motor running and main jet in. MAIN JET CORRECT: Carburetor should run clean and crisp to full throttle. Correction: None needed. MAIN JET TOO RICH: RPM reaches a peak slowly with a deep sound. Excess fuel and oil mixture at end of silencer. Spark plug fowls easily and is dark in color. Correction: Mikuni replace main jet with next leaner and test again. Keihin replace main jet with next leaner and test again. MAIN JET TOO LEAN: RPM reaches a peak quickly but erratic. A quick full snap open of throttle causes the motor to hesitate BWAH sound or a complete bog. Motor sounds like it has a ring to it. End of silencer white. Spark plug is white in color. Correction: Mikuni replace main jet with next richer until the BWAH bog just barely goes away, then replace the main jet with the next richer and run it. Keihin replace main jet with next richer until the BWAH bog just barely goes away, then replace the main jet with the next richer and run it. The emphasis here is find a main jet that is just rich enough to allow you snap the throttle wide open without the motor bogging as a result of the main being too lean. Should be a quick crisp throttle with no hesitation. Step 4: DETERMINE THE CORRECT NEEDLE TAPER AND CUT AWAY. This step in the jetting process can be made very simple if you remain close to stock. However, your needle taper is adjusted for 1/2 throttle to 3/4 throttle. Start off with a rich taper (shallow taper angle) and keep going leaner (steeper taper angle) until it will not maintain constant RPM at 1/2 throttle (runs erratic). Go back to the leanest taper angle that ran the smoothest at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and that should be the correct taper. The needle taper final test should be under track conditions with the greatest effect entering and exiting corners. Do not change the needle diameter or needle jet size during this process because that has already been determined. Adjust taper and throttle cut away only. Throttle cut away effects from idle to 1/4 throttle. The correct cut away will maintain steady 1/8 throttle with quick throttle response. Generally the stock cut away is very close. Experiment with different cut away until it maintains the best response to 1/4 throttle. QUICK TIPS: Keep it simple, buy the optional OEM needles or needle jets that are available, as this may speed up the taper selection process. Don't skip any steps or you're just guessing.
Depends on the carb which direction you turn the air mix screw. Another great write up I found for the PWK type of carbs (which the Nibbi I did is) https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...4730/1542561947962/KeihinCarbJetting-2015.pdf
