I have a 92 Daihatsu. Runs great however the choke does not seem to be working. Anyone ever messed with the choke before I start working on it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
It does not seem to be working at all. I can look at the geared teeth on the side under the throttle linkage and it does not seem to move at all. I lubed it up, no help. I see a vaccuum line to the top of it. I am going to take it apart tomorrow and see if I can fnd anything wrong with it. Any suggestions? Thanks Jay
The geared teeth are not suppose to move. Your truck should have a fast idle when the truck is cold as the truck warms up the truck idles down. The liquid warmed choke only operates the butter fly valve in the carb. The choke is operated by the water temp of you engine. The only thing you will see move on the choke is the spring that opperates the buttery fly valve and it will move so slow it will drive you nuts watching it.
thanks chad, It does not seem to be working then, when it is cold you have to keep it running with the accelerator. the idel is no different when hot or cold. is there a choke idle adjustment screw? Thanks again
Jay, Frirst make sure nobody bypassed the water flow to the choke. If you are getting water look at the choke. There will be a White plastic "y" shaped peice, when you push the "y" shaped peice down it will slightly open the butter fly valve. Check and make sure the spring is not broken on the plastic peice causing it not to operate or check to make sure the spring has not come out of it's grove. The plastic "Y" shape peice is what your choke is attached to and controls the butter fly valve.
Chad, is there a way to adjust the speed of the fast idle by changing any adjustable part of this setup? My truck starts fine but the idle is so high...and it seems to take a bit of time to finally slow down to a normal idle. The coolant function is working I just wish to have a bit lower fast idle!
What make of truck do you have? Hondas and Subarus will have a very fast cold idle and then will idle down once the engine gets warm. This usually takes a while with most trucks. if your truck starts and runs fine I wouldn't touch the idle. But if you want to change the idle, let the truck warm up first. There will be an idle screw on the carb and adjust the idle by that screw.
It's a 93 Mitsubishi. I have already adjusted the normal idle after driving the truck to get the engine up to normal temp. My problem is the initial fast idle is much too fast and takes a long time to drop. I think my fuel mileage is bad because it's just dumping extra fuel during this fast idle time...I would like to adjust it down some. Thanks for any tips!
Well, its not only the fuel being wasted, but it gets fairly cold where i live, so when its -40c, the last thing i need is my truck going 3200rpm bone cold! Can you say friction!!! I was able to adjust my cold idle (91 honda acty) What you should do is start the truck up cold, and see what changes when it warms up. On mine, there is a secondary control that seems to limit the cold idle, and there is a small bolt with an alen head inside the thread. It was a PITA, but i was able to adjust the max point where the "cold idle" stopper was. It still activates when you fire it up cold, but does not let it give as much throttle. ***BUT*** now my truck has hard starts from time to time, so i have to prod the gas pedal to start it. That is how i did it on my honda acty, and now it rev's about 2400rpm when cold, instead of 3200rpm, but i would still like to fix the cold starting issue. If anyone knows a better way, please let me know! -mark
I had a bad idle in my truck (s83p) today and found a cracked vacuum line solved the problem but I also found some raw fuel in the intake bellows..decided it was time to find out what all the screw adjustments did once and for all... there are 5 adjustments on the carb..all described as seen from the right side of the truck... truck cold to begin and vacuum lines checked..intake rubber bellows to aircleaner removed 1: idle air bypass..big white plastic knob on the manifold end of the carb..turn it 1/2 way between stops and leave there to start..higher altitudes you may need to turn it a bit more counterclockwise 2: throttle stop...just to the left of the idle air bypass knob and at the end of the throttle cable..unscrew(counterclockwise) till it just stops touching the stop and then tighten 1 1/2 to 2 full turns..leaves throttle butterfly valve open to approx spec without carb removal to check exactly..you may need to open it a tiny bit more 3choke butterfly adjustment..screw located on the left of the carb beside the toothed plastic wheel..when truck is cold and choke is closed this screw will adjust the maximum choke closed position..... screw in or out till the choke butterfly is around 2mm from full closed..you can see the choke butterfly through the end where you disconnected the intake bellows..now remove the short lower vacuum line from the choke actuator and either apply vacuum or suck on it ( YAH YAH insert filthy comment) it should slightly move the choke butterfly with suction applied..if not moving remove the 3 screws on top of the diaphram(sp?) careful there is a spring in there.check that there are no tears in the diaphram and the rod moves freely...the other vacuum line appears to be a load sensitive stepper for a/c or alternator load..it should also move (little brass valve inside top cap of diaphram housing ) 4fast idle adjustment..smaller of the 2 screws on the right side of the carb near the alternator..start truck cold and adjust fast idle speed to approx 1800rpm let the truck warm up till the idle drops off the choke and using the last screw.. big one on right side of carb5adjust idle speed to 1000rpm...you may need to slightly tweak afterwards I can't say whether this is 100% accurate but it worked for me
choke issues thanks for the great run down on all those little adjustment screws, I am having a crappy time starting my truck in the cold these days and I hope that your notes will help me solve the problem. I also have quite a stutter when the little truck idling. It was recommended to me that I may have bad leads and or timing. Also does anybody have any input as to why when I ordered a new distributor cap that the one that arrived had a different configuration than the original. I specified that it was an s83 (Daihatsu) and am a little confused
distributor cap It looks like at one time when work was done a different distributor cap was used despite the fact that the body serial # tags said s83. I compared the cap to one in a picture from west shore auto and it is an s83 style that was sent BUT the one on the truck is quite different so it will be a 110. Do you think an old distributor cap could be the cause of funny idle. It seems to stutter on idle and is a consistent skip. I will replace the leads too to cover my bases , thanks for the fast response, faster than I am able to work on the truck. I also had bad damp weather starts not too long ago, but after a little fiddling noticed that the middle connection on the cap had corrosion and was obviously not as good as it should be. After cleaning the cap it started fine despite any rainy days. Now cold starts are my problem, but no doubt need to figure out my choke issue.
as long as you have matched the cap to the serial # you should be good...the old cap being a bit off may have been the cause of your stumble...have you checked all your vacuum hoses? they are buggers to get to em all,but they cause some grief when leaky
Sorry to bump this thread just wanted to throw this here for anyone looking: I converted fupabox's carb adjustment procedure into a guide for myself. I organized and edited it a bit. Some might find it useful to follow along with while working on it. link: S83p Hijet - Carb Adjustment Guide
