“The man who does not read has no advantage over the man who cannot read.”
― Mark Twain
oh well, I haven't heard from my mech yet and I'm too busy to chase after him at the moment.
i'll keep you guys posted once I know what's going on.
SO my mech pulled the oil pan off, says the con bearings definately need to be replace and the crank ground. The oil smelled like fuel so there must be fuel leaking into the crank case somehow which could have lead to the failure.
any thoughts as to why that would happen? I need to make a decision on whether or not it's more economical to get a rebuilt engine and start fresh, or put the money into this engine only to have the same issue next year or a few years down the road if I can't solve the gas leak.
getting close to lift off.
The engine arrived this week. I need to see about rebuilding the carb or having it rebuilt. I want to eliminate all possible variables, and not just throw the old carb back on there.
It's getting exciting because I'll have a beautiful new engine and perhaps I'll see some better fuel mileage. With gas where it is, and where it will be come mid summer, the cost savings on fuel alone will help offset the cost of the engine (wishfull thinking!!)
CARB'D ENGINE? CHECK YOUR OIL. Smells like gas, replace the oil and think about rebuilding the carb.
I'm interested because I have this idea that one day I'll be putting a new engine in and I will need a source, and lots of research material.
To your question from the last post: I think gasoline in the oil can only really get into the oil by getting past the rings. If the rings are really worn pressure from the combustion chambers can be forced past them (blow by) and unspent fuel will contaminate the oil. It would always be accompanied by a host of other symptoms (low and uneven compression, lost power, running erratically, smoke, etc.) so you would have been putting up with a really tacky ride there for some time.
I suppose if the carb was not shutting off the fuel flow completely when stopped, the gas could dribble into the manifold, leak into the cylinders, and seep into the oil past the rings. Pressure in the fuel line could force a little gas in each time you stopped. I suspect a little goes a long way, so you wouldn't need much gas to ruin the oil.
Last edited by Jessf; 05-06-2011 at 07:49 PM.
Well, good news on the new motor. HOWEVER, I do drive mine (Suzuki) WOT for hundreds of KM on end. Have for years and years.
I disagree 100% about not doing 100KMH. The biggest problem is that fuel economy gets worse, fast! Of course you should "break in" your motor prior to such driving habits!
truck is almost back!
new engine, all new hose, thermo, etc, the list goes on.
Apparently the coolant system had what my mechanic called "missisippi mud" clogging the flow of coolant. Could have contributed to the engine failure. It's something you wouldn't fix by flushing the coolant, you'd have to remove the thermostat and flush it several times.
something to look out for on these little things.
Another way fuel can get into the oil would be through a defective fuel pump.
If it's a block mounted mechanical pump, it can leak through the diaphragm right into the engine oil.
I've had my Subaru for over a year now and I'm still not used to some of the sounds it makes (which I take to be ok since it's still running well ).Not enough time to get a "feel" for it.
I've got about 145 000 kms on it and it doesn't seem to have any mechanical issues beyond minor wear and tear stuff. My plan was always to run it until the engine dies and then put an electric motor in there instead...If that ever happens though I'll probably miss the screaming sound it makes now!
I also run it at 100-120km/h somewhat frequently (my first trip was to drive it home from Calgary to Edmonton). The SC model has slightly better gearing for high speeds though, but I'm still riding 5th gear from 60 out to 120 km/h. A 6th top end gear would be the greatest!
Jessf, maybe you could take a video when you get the truck running with a "new" engine so we have a reference of what it's supposed to sound like!
1990 Subaru Sambar SC
I picked up the Sambar c/w new engine last Thursday and have driven it approximately 240km since then. Smooth as butter. I'm not sure how many here have had the opportunity to drive a mini with a new or otherwise rebuilt engine, but it's a pleasure.
The truck didn't appear to have any loss of power before the failure, average fuel consumption was 35mpg (highway and city combined). The power at the time seemed fine.
With the new engine, and a rebuilt carb, what a difference in performance. The truck pulls like it has power to spare. It's virtually silent when heard from the cab, rocks caught in the treads make a louder noise. I'm going to run it for 1000km and take it in for a tune and a fluid change. We weren't entirely sure we got all the **** out of the coolant lines (it's been flushed a total of 5 times), and I'd like to change the oil after the rings have been well seated. I've got the recomended 30w oil in there, and I'll be switching to 10w30 after the first frost. I don't know the fuel economy yet, I just filled up this morning so I'll be tracking my kms until the next gas-up. Anyways, truck runs great and I learned a lot from my mechanic throughout the whole process.
Well, my worst fears have been realized.
My truck has the same noise, the same symptoms, the same result. Loss of power, loud snapping engine noise, top end is in really good shape. I guess I have lost the bottom end. The biggest issue is that the truck is not as prostine as Jessf's by the sound of it, and spending $4k on it would be a bit crazy.
My mechanic shop is a very reliable, honest place, and they just did the head gasket the day before she blew. They have inspected it and listened to the noise on the video, and their take on it is that it is the same issue.
Anyone got an old EN07 lying around that I could tear the crank out of?
I have my old engine, but there's no telling how good the crank is. I could rip it out and send it to you if you wanted to have it honed. If the crank is bent, it's likely other things are damaged as well. until they pull the bottom end out and do a full inspection you won't know for sure, but the cost to inspect + the cost to get the parts, you're looking at a pretty sizable price etherway. You might want to give japanoid a call and see what they have in used engines. Those guys are awesome and I've trusted them with a lot of money and time and have never been disappointed. Keep us posted.