I took it in to mech. had a oil change and rad flush. when I got back not running right seems to lose power when stepping on the gas in all gears but it kicks in and out it seems to run fine at times then when I step on it it gives my nothing then as I ease up on the gas it seems to kick in and feel normal. It does this randomly in all gears. any help please:
Thanks for your help, I suspected as much when I questioned him he said he did not although I saw the dip stick was over. what could happen to my engine since I been driving it like this for two weeks now.
Hi again and thx for your info on the possibility that my mech over filled the oil. I had another question was there anything that he needed to do when changing the coolant i am sure that he would not know if there was some special way to properly flush drain and refill the system. i am not having any issues with the heat though, my mech. does not work on these types of vehicles but I figured its just an oil change and coolant change what could go wrong seems I was wrong. FYI I have a 1993 Subaru sambar Box Van 660cc 5 spd with EL 4 cyl 4 WD. I love it it has been running like a top until this fluid change. want to keep it in great cond. any info would be greatly appreciated. JR
does anyone know if you can beef up the suspension ie springs shocks to allow these trucks to carry more weight I have a 1993 sambar 4 wd with el 660cc engine right now its rated for 350 kg or 775 lbs I would like to see if it could handle another 150 lbs. any help would be appreciated.
Like the previous posted said, check the oil level. Also good idea to do a tune-up if you havent yet. Fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition cap & rotor and air filter at the very least. This will improve idle, acceleration and fuel milage.
not sure on the Sambar springs...do a search on the forum...I know many of the mid engined models have successfully swapped for firmer springs....if the coolant flush was done without bleeding the system upon refilling,you may end up with choke and temp. controlled vacuum problems on the carb.. generally the bleeder screw will be very close to or mounted on the thermostat housing....smell the oil on your dipstick and see if it has an overly gassy smell (most oil will smell a bit like gas...but a really strong smell indicates fuel washing down the cylinders) this can be caused by the unbled coolant system as well and contribute to an overfull oilpan,and lack of lubrication.........what brand of filter did he use ?? if it is a Fram I would ditch it asap....nothing good comes from those orange boxes..they can cause oil starvation,low oil pressure,lack of pressure on start-up etc....your Truck uses the same oil filter as a 1989-1994 Mazda Miata...get a Napa gold or wix filter....avoid fram,quaker-state,motomaster...all made by the same company and bad news...
thanks for your reply I got it solved it turns out I ordered a set of plug wires and they must of been a cheap after market product all the covers were cracked and burnt took a spray bottle and while the engine was running sprayed them they were arcing all over the place. Sure enough pulled them and they were cracked. All I have to say be careful who you buy parts from. Thanks for the advice on the oil and filters I have the filters for this vehicle and I use mobile 1 synth. oil as well as 1 lucas when I am changing the oil. its been working pretty good so far. Also don't seem to be having issues with the heating since the coolant change but I am positive he did not bleed it from the thermo. I have found a place the services these vehicles in Canada about a hours drive from me did not know they existed until 2 weeks ago "go figure" Going to call them next week and ask about the springs and shocks. Thanks again for your reply JMR
glad you found the culprit....always screws you up when you think something is newly replaced so it cant be the problem:frustration:
