Click to view all our sponsors
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: Aluminum plate for dump bed liner?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    38
    Rep Power
    0

    Default Aluminum plate for dump bed liner?

    I was researching the price (and transport complications) for getting my dump bed lined with Line-X or Herculiner. Since I'll be using the dump bed mostly for moving firewood and dumping it where I want it, a smooth surface might be more advantageous than a rubbery textured surface.

    I called a few places about getting a 4x6 sheet of aluminum or stainless steel cut. The original dump bed has some surface rust and pitting but no holes yet. The price of 1/8th inch thick aluminum would be about $135, which is more than Herculiner but about a third of a Line-X treatment. I was thinking of first wirebrushing the bed, treating it with some rust converter paint, and adhering the aluminum plate to the steel bed with construction adhesive or something similar, and then caulking the seam with silicone. The eighth inch thick aluminum would weigh (I've been told) about 40 pounds. Plain steel would be a lot more weight, stainless would be rather expensive. I think if I really used a lot of adhesive, I wouldn't have any problems with a battery effect of two metals touching and causing some galvanic oxidation.

    Anybody tried this yet or have any opinion? It might get some dents from use but it seems like it should outlast a spray on liner, especially if I'm going to have rocks, gravel, and lots of firewood being loaded and dumped from the bed regularly, and I'm guessing all the loose bark will be a lot easier to sweep out than withe the textured bed liner stuff.


    Last edited by antfarmer; 04-21-2011 at 10:11 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    austin,tx
    Posts
    1,736
    Rep Power
    9

    Default

    I'd go with the aluminum sheet. Drill some holes for water drainage when the silicon wears out or gets rubbed off from the rocks and wood.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Estevan, Saskatchewan, Canada, North America, Earth.
    Posts
    2,960
    Rep Power
    9

    Default

    id just sand blast it and use a ton of rustoleum on it
    SE Saskatchewan, Canada
    1992 Toyota Liteace - Mine
    1992 Subaru Sambar - Dad's

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fulshear, TX (West of Houston)
    Posts
    69
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    Be sure you powder coat or anodize the aluminum. Aluminum and steel (basically iron) are metals that react differently to electrolytes (anything other than distilled water!). If you bolt the aluminum directly to the steel you will get corrosion, which will destory it.

    Personally, I'd Line-X (or similar) the bed (which is what I did on my bed). Your bed tilt looks plenty high enough to dump the wood even with a rubberized floor.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------
    94 S83P, RH, 660cc, 4sp, 4wd, AFCO Springs (250#), 25x8 Grim Reapers, ITP 7" wheels, 1" front/2"rear lift.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    38
    Rep Power
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kegoangoango View Post
    Be sure you powder coat or anodize the aluminum. Aluminum and steel (basically iron) are metals that react differently to electrolytes (anything other than distilled water!). If you bolt the aluminum directly to the steel you will get corrosion, which will destory it.

    Personally, I'd Line-X (or similar) the bed (which is what I did on my bed). Your bed tilt looks plenty high enough to dump the wood even with a rubberized floor.
    I would not know how to do a do it yourself anodization of a big plate of aluminum. I was basically going to rely on a thick coat of rubbery construction adhesive to insulate the aluminum from the painted steel floor.

    I had every intention of using Line-X, but basically I've thrown up my hands in frustration. I located the local person who applies Line-X and asked for a quote. I sent measurements, photos etc. and said I just wanted a ball park estimate of the cost for the bed and the floor of the cab. He did not want to do the cab, and he would not give me any sort of rough estimate, he wanted me to bring the Hijet in for the estimate. I tried to explain that a rough estimate would be fine for now, that I had no trailer or vehicle that could haul this thing around, and it would be pretty much a whole wasted day and a lot of money to rend a trailer and truck just to haul this in to get a rough estimate. How difficult can it be to estimate the cost for prepping and lining a 4.5x6' bed? I know that some pickups got this done for about $400.
    It has been about a week since my last email to this guy and still no answer. Basically, if a business is not motivated enough to follow up and work with me on a solution, I just have to move on to the next best logical solution, and right now I am thinking that the aluminum plate might be a superior solution both in cost and in durability, especially if there is a cushion of construction adhesive or RV rubber roofing stuff sandwiched between the layers. I could easily get a sheet of steel cut but that seems like a bit more added weight than I really want.
    '91 Daihatsu Hijet Dumper 4WD, Diamondback Supergrip 8-12-23" tires, aluminum plate bed liner, 2" body lift with spacers, front and rear welded bumpers with receivers, front winch, new timing belt

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,772
    Rep Power
    9

    Default

    I saw Farm & Fleet has Herculiner on sale right now in case you haven't checked lately.
    Last edited by Acerguy; 04-23-2011 at 11:25 AM.
    Keith
    John Deere 4100
    2001 Hijet

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Fulshear, TX (West of Houston)
    Posts
    69
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by antfarmer View Post
    I would not know how to do a do it yourself anodization of a big plate of aluminum. I was basically going to rely on a thick coat of rubbery construction adhesive to insulate the aluminum from the painted steel floor.
    Just be careful with the bolts/screws in your set up.

    I used Herculiner on mine. After wirebrushing it with a grinder, it was very easy and inexpensive. It's lasted for five years and heavy use (I also did the floor of my cab). It was easy to do and I recommend it. I've not tried the new Duplicolor liner, but it might work well. I've had good luck with other Duplicolor products.

    But next year I'll probably redo mine and use the Herculiner again.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------
    94 S83P, RH, 660cc, 4sp, 4wd, AFCO Springs (250#), 25x8 Grim Reapers, ITP 7" wheels, 1" front/2"rear lift.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Slovenia
    Posts
    1
    Rep Power
    0

    Default Aluminum plate for dump bed liner

    Anybody ever do this or seen it done? Im want to do the frame on the KX80 because the green is all coming off and it looks like ****. I am not going to strip the bike completely to powder coat, its not worth that to me. Im just going to take off as much **** as I can easily and paint on the bed liner.

    Any brand suggestions? Any Prep suggestions? I planned on degreasing the **** out of it and then hit with a scotchbrite pad for prep..

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Wrenshall MN
    Posts
    1,064
    Rep Power
    7

    Default

    I've coated the bed of my dad's 5 ton dodge dump truck with steel sheeting... We used self-tapping screws and caulked around the edges with a carpet caulking attachment and several tubes of high-grade silicone caulk. It's been on there for around 6 years now with no problems.
    1996 Suzuki Carry <> 2" Shackle lift <> 1" Spring lift <> Plow <> 5000# Winch <> Rear bumper with receiver <> Front brush guard with winch mount ... and more in the works! -^_^-

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    North Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland
    Posts
    61
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    Ant Farmer,

    Wouldn't if be possible to take the measurements, and your photo to the Line X person?

    Thanks,

    Nemo

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Winterpeg, Manitoba, Canada
    Posts
    82
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    3/4" plywood would last well enough. No silicone required and cheap. If you're hauling wood and stone, this isn't a show truck...

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Wrenshall MN
    Posts
    1,064
    Rep Power
    7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by copeina View Post
    3/4" plywood would last well enough. No silicone required and cheap. If you're hauling wood and stone, this isn't a show truck...
    It'd rust the everloving crap out of the bed underneath though, then he'd have a couple thousand dollar replacement job instead of a real basic repair.
    1996 Suzuki Carry <> 2" Shackle lift <> 1" Spring lift <> Plow <> 5000# Winch <> Rear bumper with receiver <> Front brush guard with winch mount ... and more in the works! -^_^-

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    38
    Rep Power
    0

    Default

    The aluminum plate would only add 40 pounds to the truck (less than 3/4" plywood and a lot less than the steel plate). I think that if I used some sort of rubbery adhesive between the existing pitted steel and the aluminum, like a construction adhesive of some sort, the aluminum and steel would not be in actual contact and no galvanic corrosion would occur. Since I'm using this mostly for firewood and occasionally dirt or gravel, I think those materials would slide out well from the aluminum, and if I really goobered up with the construction adhesive, no moisture could build up below the steel to cause rust. I did buy a Herculiner bed liner kit on sale from Menards at $20 for $49, but my thinking now is to use it to replace my floor mat in the cab and then use what is left to roll on the sides of the bed and inner tail gate.
    By the way, the existing tail gate is a bit of a nuisance for dumping firewood because the wood tends to get caught during dumping when it hinges at the top and releases at the bottom. If there was 6 inches more clearance this would not happen. If you unlatch the top hinge so it swings down like a pickup truck tailgate, then it falls off when you dump because when the dump bed is lifted, the bottom hinges automatically open up (which is normal when dumping dirt and using the upper hinges). So I might have to think of a way to modify the mechanism that controls the automatically opening lower hinges to keep them shut when dumping with the upper hinges opened up.
    I realize that anyone who hasn't actually seen the hinges on a dump bed tail gate will be rather confused by this, but perhaps someone knows what I'm talking about and has already discovered a simple way to defeat the automatically opening lower hinge jaws when the dump bed tilts up.
    '91 Daihatsu Hijet Dumper 4WD, Diamondback Supergrip 8-12-23" tires, aluminum plate bed liner, 2" body lift with spacers, front and rear welded bumpers with receivers, front winch, new timing belt

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Mayer, AZ USA
    Posts
    162
    Rep Power
    8

    Default Ppg pitt guard 97-145

    Hey,

    Got a coat of this stuff on my whole truck. Then I applied my Camo to the outside of truck. Bed has only the DTR. I am a painter by trade. This product, PPG 97-145 PITT GUARD is a two component Epoxy mastic that can be tinted to almost any color. I had a lot of corrosion on my truck which is why i used it. Have had this on for quite awhile with no issues. I see yours is a hard dump and mine is not. You can apply this with minimal prep work as it is actually designed to be applied over less than ideal surfaces. Will fade a little over time but should be no issue in the bed anyway. I pay around 100.00 for a two gallon kit. You would probably pay a little higher unless you know a contractor in your area with an account with the Pittsburgh Paint Store. I have attached a photo of my bed and a data sheet for the DTR. Good luck whichever way you go.

    Terry
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Attached Files Attached Files
    1993 Suzuki Dump, 2002 Suzuki
    My girlfriend thinks that I'm a stalker. Well, she's not exactly my
    girlfriend yet.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Spring Hill, TN
    Posts
    2,568
    Rep Power
    10

    Default

    Hey Terry! glad to see your still around! Thanks for the info and the contribution! Good to hear from you now and then.

    -Greg

Similar Threads

  1. found aluminum wheels that fit
    By fupabox in forum Daihatsu Hi jet
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 08-16-2010, 01:45 PM
  2. Bed Liner
    By BC_MMC in forum Mitsubishi Minicab
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 04-28-2010, 08:18 AM
  3. JDM Aluminum Rims
    By chickendumpling in forum Wanted
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-17-2010, 07:22 AM
  4. Rubber mat bed liner
    By chickendumpling in forum Wanted
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-09-2009, 03:39 PM
  5. Roll on liner
    By MightyHamster in forum General Truck Info
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 03-11-2008, 11:33 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •