I'm having problems with the Mini here at the plant. It quit running about 4 weeks ago appeared to be a fuel problem. I checked and there was no power to the pump. The following day the truck had power and ran for about another week and hasn't run since. I have checked fuses, relays (even swapped them around), ran a hot wire to the pump making the pump run and it will pump but I don't think it has enough pressure. The truck will run if you give it some starting fluid. I was looking at the Mini this morning and the first time I keyed the truck the pump ran but the truck didn't start. I turned the key to the start position and had power again to the pump. I had power each time I tried this until I turned the key off. Now I don't have any power to the pump again. I am going to replace the pump but I don't think it will cure the problem of not having power to the pump. Does anyone have any ideas what to look at next? Thanks:frustration:
If you need a fuel pump remove yours and match it up with a 2005 Scion (toyota). We had a 2000 EFI Daihatsu that had a bad fuel pump inside tank and thats what we used instead of paying out the wazoo for a Daihatsu fuel pump. Heck of a lot cheaper. In any case the fuel pump will only pump about 2 sec. when the key is turned on then it will stop. If the engine starts the fuel pump will start pumping again. I didnt check the fuel psi but I would think it needs 35psi +. Thats just a guess. If it starts and runs with start fluid I would think its a fuel delivery problem.
There is no filter on the s210's just a strainer in the tank. I'm not sure there is a regulator either, none that i can remember, as there is no return line to the tank. Check for proper circuit function. ECM under dash engages the relay under the seat at ignition on for approx 3 secs. Then from the relay directly to the fuel pump. I'm sure you've figured this out since after wiring the fuel pump directly you still did not get any fuel so my money is on a faulty fuel pump. -Greg
wow no pressure regulator...actually I remember reading that somewhere....only a strainer in the tank!? ugh...I have to get my hands on one of the EFIs to see this oddness
Yeah its kinda odd. I read an article about this, not sure if it was directly related to Daihasu, but it said it reduces emissions in the fact that heated fuel doesn't return to the tank thus reducing fuel vapors. I assume this would increase pump life as the pump will run cooler?? I don't know really but thats what the article said. -Greg
I don't think its the pump - if I hot wire the pump it will run and Pump fuel but wont start and run. I tried a new pump and hot wired it and still wont run. I have checked for power at the relays and have power with key on to 3 of the 4 wires. The 4th wire goes to the pump. Sometimes (rarely) there is power to the pump wire and it has power for a few seconds then goes off until you turn the key to the crank position and there is power agian. After changing the pump I 'Hot' wired the pump making it run and it still would not start. Anyone one have a wiring diagram? Any other ideas? Thanks
If you are getting fuel (meaning that you put in your hard wired pump that was pumping gas all the way to the engine and none of your lines were clogged) that only leaves spark and air to be the culprits...
The truck will run if you give it a shot of starting fluid. Leads me to believe it a fuel problem - but where? Not enough pressure? How can that be checked? Is there a regulator? ??????:frustration:
hmmmm. Link to service manual. http://www.lulu.com/product/paperba...gContext=search_results/search_shelf/center/2 At this point it may be that the injectors aren't pulsing. you could try to pull the fuel rail and leave the injectors in it and while you crank it see if you get any spray from them (I'm guessing not). Just be careful that the fuel pressure doesn't blow the injectors out of the rail when attempting this. There is a separate circuit that provides a common +12v power to the injectors when the ignition is on and the ECM provides ground to pulse the injectors. Might want to check for +12v at the injectors and/or test for injector pulse. All of this is mainly controlled by the relays under the seat. I will try to find a diagram of how this works for you.
OK... So here is the best way i can show how this works. This works identical to the Main fuel injection relay on a honda except that instead of a special relay that honda manufactures... Daihatsu, and most other manufacturers for that matter, use two standard relays. You should have two relays under the seat. One is marked for the fuel pump and the other is marked for the fuel injection. Go to the attached link, this shows how the two relays work together to make the fuel pump and injectors work via the signals from the ignition and the ECM. Hopefully this helps you some. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/index.html As you can see if one of the relays go bad it won't matter if you swap them around as they work together.
Look up my thread about the 2003 suzuki with injectors almost completely clogged with rust from the tank... .
Well guys its come down to this - took out the fuel injection computer and went to my nearest Mini dealer. He had a Daihatsu on the lot - a couple years newer but the plugs on the computer were the same - Started the truck he had to make sure it would run - unplugged his trucks computer and plugged mine in and the truck wouldn't start - plugged his back in and the truck started. Now I'm lookin for a Fuel Injection comp. numbers on it are; 89560 - 97569 211000-5614 12v 69 Anyone got one they don't need? Thanks
Wont Run Found a computer with the same numbers on it. Truck still wont start. Took this computer back to dealer and put on his truck and it started and ran. Put it back on our truck - fuel pump runs, truck cranks and fires once in a while and still will run if given starting fluid. I even put the original pump back in the tank. I'm going to remove the plugs and injectors to get a look at them next. Any other ideas?????
Look for my thread on the 2003 Suzuki with injectors full of rust. Your problem sounds similar. I had to clean the fuel rail and lines. .edit Never mind I already mentioned this...
Wont run Well removed injectors and plugs today. Didn't get any rust out of the injectors. The plugs were a little wet so I cleaned them and reinstalled them. I have power to the injectors so I reinstalled them. Truck tries to start but wont run for more then a couple seconds. Still starts on the starting fluid. I'm at a loss now - Ant ideas on what to try next???????:frustration:
Can you install a gauge where the fuel line connects to fuel rail and check that psi while cranking engine? Just to make sure its getting fuel. If it runs on start fluid I would think you have a fuel delivery problem ?
Do the suzuki's computer need to be reset when installing one I recently got a computer for a daihatsu and we had to reset the computer because it was going in a different truck. We had to ground a pin in the ob 2 plug, turn ignition to the on position, turn on heater, turn on lights and depress the fuel peddle for 10 sec. Then reverse everything and start engine. When starting the engine you could tell the computer was learning the rpm range of the truck. It went from 800 to 1200 + - for 15 sec. or so then leveled out at 800 rpm.
Checked for pulse at the injectors. Voltage varies from 11.5 down to about 9.5ish - the truck seems to fire when it drops down to its lowest point. How much of a pulse should there be? If you leave the truck sit for a while and go try to start it will run for about 4 seconds then dies. :frustration:
Sounds like a fuel delivery problem. I know it's been mentioned, but have you checked the fuel pressure. You can get an inexpensive kit at harbor freight or auto parts store. As mentioned already, the S201P does not have a fuel pres regulator. The pump dead heads into the fuel rail. Many new fuel injected bikes work the same way. "T" into the rubber fuel line going up to the engine w/ the gauge. Fuel pressure should be in the 25-35psi range. I put an inline fuel filter where I "T"d in when I was done checking fuel pressure. I'll also ask a dumb question...are you sure the gas is fresh? No chance it has water in it? When in doubt of the age of the fuel I pump it out and put in fresh. .
I agree with Bob. The voltage sounds about right for the injectors, I know it pulses so quickly its hard to get an accurate reading. Only other thought if fuel pressure and fuel quality checks out its possible the injector circuit could be failing after the first few seconds of it running. might want to try taking the rail off with the injectors in it and as you crank the engine make sure you continue to get spray from each injector as the engine cranks. You might need to fashion a way to keep the injectors in the rail so they don't blow out under fuel pressure. You could also check the resistance of the injectors, not sure of the exact spec for dai but normally they are between 10 and 20 ohms. The one odd thing is that the original ECU didn't work in the dealers truck where the new one does. That makes me think its something electrical.
Resurrecting an old thread after digging through some earlier EFI threads. Anybody have any idea how this turned out? I sent skinnykenny a PM but it's been some time since he's been on here.
