I figure we need a thread to get down to the things that really work for make our mini's run better, drive better, and just generally easier to work on it and find parts for it that keep us going. Just like an old jeep, wasn't to fancy, easy to work on, could damn neer'd use baling wire to keep it going. Not a bunch of vacuum lines, extra hoses, and silly electrical crap. Just straight forward steel, rubber, and some gas.
I'm changing out my carb for a simple Mikuni TM32 now. I also just replaced the fuel pump with an after market fuel pump that has the filter screwed right in the side of it. Bolts right to the frame and it cleaned up that overly trashy looking stuff they slapped on.
The carb is in place now, big difference in space to work on it "if you ever need too". These TM32's have been on bike for years, with very little issues. No need to run coolant lines into them, and no vacuum lines as well. Will let you know how it turns out.
With no coolant lines going to the carb I am going to simplify the cooling system, has anyone had any luck with any aftermarket cheaper radiators?
I will be lifting it, a lot of good info on here, may just go the simple route and stop at 1 3/4"....
Good luck guys and gals
What's the plan to deal with the timing advance? Mine uses a vaccum line to work it. I'd like to hear how the carb works out. I've already got mine running well with the help I got here on the forum, but there was a time when I'd have gladly done the swap... lol
'93 Suzuki Carry, 4x4, Diff Lock, 5spd + EL, bolt on lift, 25" Swamp Witches
Had to take a little time off from working on it. Anyway, FYI on the TM32 carb, I found out that you will need to change the 3.3 needle valve out to a 1.5, 3.3 is gravity feed and our trucks have a fuel pump. Learning as I go, after wondering why I was puking out gas on the upper bowl drain tubes it came to me that this were meant to be on a bike "gravity fed".
Will put more on here as I get time to work on it more.
Just a little more info on the carb change out. I am having a different throttle cable made, the TM32 Mikuni is a taller carb, thus where the cable goes into the carb is only about an 1 1/2" from the bottom of the seat frame steel. I am in the works with Motion Pro to make a custom cable to work for this application. It will have a "tight" 90 degree on the carb end. My needle valve " the 1.5 " had a slight delay in shipping so hopefully I might get it put together this weekend.
I will have a detailed list of the parts when I'm done with this little upgrade, and where to get the parts and the prices..... So far not too bad.
Ball Joint dust boot replacement; use Tie Rod Dust Boot, NAPA # 650-1176.
It's not a perfect fit at the base but it'll do.
The replacement part measures- 14.2mm shaft opening, 38.1mm base diameter, and 25.4mm tall.
Hope that helps someone.
Best Regards, Ron
Last edited by rwsem; 06-16-2012 at 01:24 PM. Reason: Make Model of Mini
Sorry for the delay on the Mikuni TM32 carb change over. Here is where I am at, now that I changed the needle valve jet to a 1.5 I was still experiencing the engine burning rich. So I order a couple of smaller pilot jets, as well as 4 smaller main jets. I now have the #40 pilot jet in, I have it tuned to 1 and 3/4's turns out on the air mixture screw and it idles perfect. FYI for you do it yourselfers, I use a piece of white "old" TEE shirt to perform a quicker check of how rich the engine is burning, it is not perfect but it gets you close. Take the white cloth and stretch it over the exhaust pipe and time it for 15 seconds, so every time you adjust your mixture screw and the such make comparisons. It should be very very light on the cloth, then when you think you have everything close drive it for awhile. Then pull a plug and check the plug for the burn.
Now onto the Main jet, it comes from the factory with a #250 main jet, I am currently down to a #220, I may go down one more to the #210. I will see how the plugs look after a few days, but I still don't have the top end power yet. Also I have the needle currently clipped in the #2 position, I may move this as well to the #1 position for a little more air flow.
Oh, one more thing. If your planning on doing this conversion be aware that this carb takes very little fuel pressure, I am learning this the hard way, now I am down to a 1.5 to 2.5 psi Facet pump. I had a 4.5 to 7.5 Facet on there before and it was way too much pressure.