CV Boot Replacement

[rwsem]

Picked up the '96 DD51T yesterday and tore down the front end today. My wife says I have a sickness; everything I buy, I end up taking apart. Anyway, when I bought the truck, there was one CV boot that was dry rotted and falling apart. I did a little reading and decided to tackle the job and replace all four as many folks suggest. Couldn't find a pic-heavy thread to show me the "how to", so I took pics along the way. I haven't completed the assembly- will do that another day. That, and I ran into a hmm moment maybe someone can help me with.
First, the boot that was falling apart:
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I clipped the clamps and removed both boots:
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Next I disconnected the control arm from the frame:
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Removed the metal C clip from the inner joint:
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Pulled the axle towards me until it fell free:
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I haven't taken the retainer ring off the shaft yet because I can't find my split ring pliers, but now comes my hmmm moment. I was hoping the outer assembly came apart the same as the inner assembly. You know, remove a C clip and give it a yank...
However, I'm guessing it's not the same as I don't feel a C clip in the grease, so I assume I'll have to remove the wheel nut. I would have tried that, but it looks as though I may have a difficult time doing that:
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So for now, I'm all prepped on both sides and ready to go.
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The only thing to decide is: do I replace the boots while the shafts are still on the truck or try to remove the shafts and finish it on the bench. By the way, does anyone also know the replacement boot PN for the ball joint? I might as well replace those as well; they're both cracked.

Advice welcomed.

Best Regards,
Ron

[spaner]

A lefty, nice find.

No, you got it down pat, that's the way that I do them. That's the best way in my opinion.
Now, after the inner CV gear is off the shaft, you can replace the wheel side boot.

Good pics, #6 is a very useful depiction of inner CV joint angle limit, and why dropping the diff without axle extension (huntibar) is just a bad idea...

Never changed the ball joint boots, I just keep pumping grease under there with an injector. Let us know if you find a part number though.

Be carefull under there man...

[rwsem]

It IS a lefty! I picked it up from Adam and Chris Allen from Shreveport, one of the last he's got and then he's done with Minitrucks, it seems. After reading about lifts on the forum, one of the first things I wanted to find out was if there were issues with this lift. I'm glad to find that when the wheels are lifted off the ground, the half shafts aren't rubbing on anything. They've fabricated and extension on the strut, adjusted camber, then tack welded the bolts before adding a one inch spacer:
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There is a mid frame modification as well, it seems:
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I appreciate the warning. I always use jack stands and then I place my floor jack near where I'm working. If I figure out the ball joint boot PN, I'll be sure to share.

[spaner]

Holly rock catcher...that'll bang your teeth out..

Seriously though, thanks from everyone for the pics, and don't be afraid to post-up.

AND, we're all a little crazy around here. Just look at the trucks we drive, we're on the fringes...

[rwsem]

There is a bit of travel in the front suspension:
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I'm a member on a few pistol forums and really enjoy the sense of community in these forums. Thanks for the welcome.

[spaner]

Yea, I'd call that a 3 1/2",

I would recommend however, that when the axle is back together, you check the shaft throw clearance. That's what I was talking about. Obviously you can see that you are at an extreme angle on the inner CV but, not the limit. That's OK. After it's together, check the "plunge" on the inner CV by pulling/pushing into the diff. If you've got a 1/4" I'd be surprised, you look like you're bottomed as is...but anything can be fixed,

I look forward to reading more...

[rwsem]

WILCO; Pic number 4 on the original post shows the shaft before I dropped the control arm. When I put it together, I'll throw a tape measure up there. You'll have to talk me through the "plunge" procedure.

[rwsem]

Never changed the ball joint boots, I just keep pumping grease under there with an injector. Let us know if you find a part number though.

I posted the info in the Retrofits that work section: http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthr...fits-That-Work NAPA # 650-1176

[spaner]

Cool, I may need those in the future.
I've had both sides off recently though, as complete units. My left side control arm "stands-out" @90 degrees when held out. The right side does fall down though, to the vertical but, not bad enough yet. Another year, or so...

Seeing as how we are expected to buy the entire lower control arm, to replace the lower ball-joint; I may investigate this in the interim. Like a three bolt S10 or such, for $30 bucks. There is room for the mounting, just the taper needs to be considered. Winter investigation; maybe...

As far as the "plunge-factor", under consideration, it is simply to ensure that, once everything is back together and, still up-in-the-air, to check removal of the inner CV from the front diff. Considering your lift design however, crossmember-drop, should be OK...

It's just to confirm that there is in fact "some-play" in there, at the diff, and that the axle is not under continuous compression load...


...

[rwsem]

My only issue with all this is that I'm having trouble getting the right side control arm re-attached. For some reason it just isn't lining up with the frame mount. Spent an hour on it yesterday and had to walk away. I don't understand what happened but will try it again today. Hope to have an epiphany...

[spaner]

Just remove the drag link from the arm. Makes it easier.

[rwsem]

Already had it disconnected. Ended up removing the strut from the spindle before I was able to work it into place. Then I had to tap the strut into the lift extension. All is well now.
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