Anyone know how to re-wire the relay for the cooling fan, so that it doesn't run when you shut the truck off? It's killed my battery a few times now, where it decides to turn on a half hour after I leave the truck. At least I can bump start it by myself... but getting sick of doing that.
I just want to do the opposite on my BMW E32 750iL with the 5 Liter V12 engine. When I shut the engine off, the visco fan of course stops and the auxiliary fan stops immy, that causes especially in our area where I live with summer temperatures of 40+ degree Celsius a temperature increase of the coolant and the complete engine bay, like a thermo shock. I just made with a friend a special relay which let's the aux fan run at high speed for some minutes after the engine has been shut off to cool down the engine room. Not only that heat causes always increase of temperature of coolant, it also kills all the plastic in the engine room like plug connectors, they got brittle and fall apart. If it turns on half an hour after you shut the truck off, there should be a problem with the relay and/or the temperature feeler. Better keep it that original way, especially as the engine is underfloor mounted, the air has problems to escape without fan. Anyway, I would look at the radiator to see if there is a temperature sensor , but maybe someone here knows exactly where that sensor is as well as the relay. Just for info, this is how it works on my old BMW http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_20.htm but that has for normal cooling a visco fan, and the electric aux fan only kicks in when the aircon is on and 2nd stage = high speed kicks in when a certain tepmerature has been reached inside the radiator. How long does the fan run at the moment when it starts, half an hour after you switched engine off? That tiny fan should not pull much A, so maybe you also should check your battery. EDIT: found the answers, Old Machinist explains it here https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/cooling-fan.10633/ relay, probably (?) it is this one Denso Relay 056700-7330 quote: In this episode, we explain how to replace a faulty radiator temperature sensor. The sensor controls the gauge and cooling fan. I just found (please double check, not 100% sure) temperature switch details here : Honda Acty radiator cooling fan not and gauge not working. Troubleshooting http://www.yiparts.com/Part/en/SSPM temperature range 87-92 oC, thread size M16x1.5, fits Honda, Rover , Suzuki, temperature switch 37760-PB2-003 You can check the part number on the original installed one.
That's some good information I haven't come across yet. Sometimes the fan will not shut off! It will run all night, and still be on in the morning. Other times when it comes on, I turn the ignition to on, then off and it stops, sometimes it doesn't even stop when I do that. I think I'll have to access that relay, it's behind the dash, I hear it click on sometimes, not fun.
let us know the findings, also maybe you make some pics after you have opened the relay, also please post all number which are mentioned on the relay, so then it will be easier to find a replacement.
Do you think it's just a faulty relay? I met a guy with another Acty, and his fan turned on soon after shutting off his truck, but I forgot to ask him if he knew how to turn it off or if it kills his battery sometimes.
It might be just the relay, I would open it and check the contacts and resolder maybe cold solderings. Or get a new one. Or just swop for a test the relay with that guy you met. The only way to turn it off in case it is defective is to pull the relay. But then there is the danger that the engine gets too hot. It will not kill the battery if it works properly, I live in an area where we have now 40 degree Celsius and then fan comes always on after I switch off the car, but it never kills the battery.
Ah, my relay is definitely faulty then. Sometimes it seems to work right, run for some time, off, then run for some time again, maybe 5 minute intervals or so? Other times it just runs non-stop. I'll tear into it this weekend if I'm not too busy riding a new motorcycle... sold my bike to get the truck, now I'm buying another bike, and get to bring it home in the truck
Fan stayed on for well over an hour, non-stop last night I'm pretty sure, went out and flicked the ignition on to shut it off... Sometimes it refuses to shut off, if it hasn't been on long enough... Hopefully I have time to remove the relay and try to fix it this weekend.
Did you meanwhile solve this problem? If so, how? What was the cause of the problem? Location of relay https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/exhaust-sub-cooling-fan-issues.11561/ https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/radiator-fan-no-workie-where-is-relay.15348/ In this episode, we explain how to replace a faulty radiator temperature sensor. The sensor controls the gauge and cooling fan.
Also had to remove the relay as mine wants to run the battery down. Searching for a suitable replacement but not sure if I really need this cooling fan as this truck doesn't go very far but may in the future.
No, I've lived with it. It's drained the battery once or twice since my post... Williemakeit, where did you find the relay? It's winter now, and I'd be happy just removing it... hard to bump start on ice and snow! I think it's the one behind the dash above the coolant cap?
Borg, go to the passenger seat and reach under the dash to the back of the glove box/ dash pocket and there is one relay to itself. The relay in mine was mounted to this area with the plug hanging down towards the floor. My truck is a 92 so make sure it is it by running till the fan comes on and unplug it to see if it shuts off. Plans are to rewire in a standard relay that is cheaper and easy to source.
Yeah, I've had parts of the dash off to check out if the wiring was loose or something... I will probably unplug that, and wire a switch on the dash in one of the blank spots next to the A/C button. Or am I missing something? It's OK to just unplug it I assume?
Finally pulled the relay out, broke the hanger while doing so... but it's out, looks like I can just wire up a new switch easily enough to fix the issue... simple open/close type switch. If anyone needs the info... it's a DENSO part# 056700-7330
Can you once more try to post the attachment? I cannot open it, always says : Invalid Attachment specified. Google found this info: Manufacturer: Denso Made In: Japan:Voltage: 12VPart #: 056700-7330 Honda Part: RELAY ASSY., POWER (4P) (056700-7330) (DENSO) Honda Part NO.: 39797-SE0-003 Compatibility Info: Part No. 39797-SE0-003 fits the vehicle applications listed below: ODYSSEY 1995 -2002 http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~relay~assy~39797-SE0-003.html CR-V, Civic, Acura, Integra http://parts.sonshonda.com/products...-056700-7330-DENSO/1548038/39797-SE0-003.html price around $27 after discount, list price 38 http://www.hondapartscheap.com/oem-...assy-power-4p-056700-7330-denso/39797-se0-003 From what I can see on the Ebay offers for used ones it is 4-prong. Thanks to both of you for the info.
I edited the previous post. Just a photo of the relay. You can see the top has a bit broken off... was hard to get it off the little tab it was attached.
old thread revival: @Borg: After you replaced Denso Relay 056700-7330, is the engine cooling fan now running properly? Recently my engine cooling fan seems to be acting up (or it is normal?), noticed that even when I drive only a mile and the engine is still not yet at operating temp (but might have reached the temp where the fan switches on, have to check further), when I switch the engine off, the engine cooling fan starts running for 5 minutes, did not have that in summer so often, today we have 25 degree C/77 F. Will watch it some more time, at least the fan switches off after abt 5 minutes up to now, so no problem with battery drain. OldMachinist once mentioned in 2011: It's called the sub-cooling fan and it helps cool the engine. The relay and control box are up front and the sensor is back by the engine. The sensor turns on the fan when it gets above 140F = 60 degree C. near the engine and turns off at 125F/52 degree C. The radiator cooling fan kicks on when the coolant is at 200F = 93 degree C. and off at 185F = 85 degree C. The radiator cooling fan is controlled by the thermo switch screwed into the bottom of the radiator. You can jumper the connector to verify that the problem is the switch not the fan motor. The switch turns the fan on at 199F = 93 degree C. and off at 185F/85 degree C. If the switch is the problem you should be able to match one up at a good auto parts store. Seems like I matched one up at Napa and the part number was TS5548 but I can't be for sure if that was for my ACTY or another Honda car I worked on. As long as you have a good battery it should work. Be aware that if you park it with the sun on the front the fan could cycle on and off on a hot day. The other option is to use a off delay timer relay so that after you shut off the key the fan could run for some amount of set time but not come on again until the key is switched back on.
Shortly after I got my Acty the cooling fan started running randomly. After it killed the battery a few times I just pulled the fuse for it. Haven't had any cooling issues but if you use it off road or going slow more than going down the road then it might be worth fixing. I daily drive mine more than offroad.
Tested it now for several days, seems to be working fine, now the fan does not come on anymore, probably because the ambient temperature dropped by 10 degree C = 50 °F compared to some days before when the fan came on for some minutes after I switched the engine off. OldMachinist explained it: It's called the sub-cooling fan and it helps cool the engine. The relay and control box are up front and the sensor is back by the engine. The sensor turns on the fan when it gets above 140F near the engine and turns off at 125F. The radiator cooling fan kicks on when the coolant is at 200F and off at 185F. In the Honda Tech Forum I found this comment when someone has as similar problem with an Acura: Fan keeps running after shutting off!! Proper operation: A number of Honda/Acura with an advance cooling system employ a fan timer system to offset the fragile aluminum head. The timer allows the fan to know when and how long the fan should operate. By switching the ignition off and the coolant temperature exceeds the boiling point the radiator fan will kick in. (However, both the condenser fan and the cooling fan will run when the A/C is on at any temperature.) The fan timer should run for about 15 minutes and 18 seconds if the engine temp is over 223F. If it is running greater than 15 minutes, or the fan going on/off randomly while the ignition is on or off then either the fan timer is bad, the fan relay, or perhaps there's a bad connection somewhere. If the fan timer system fail to turn on the fan, serious damage to the head and head gasket could occur some time in the future. If the fan runs every time you turn off the engine, you've probably plug the switch to the wrong sensor, the cooling system has poor coolant circulation, you're driving in a hilly terrain or it was just a hot day. Problem: The fan runs continuously (longer than 19-minutes) when the key is removed. The symptom is a dead battery. The fan turns off only when the ignition is turned ON (not off, correction) and while the high temperature thermo switch (108 degrees) is checked out okay then 90% chance the fan timer is bad. Usually happens to the 90-93 Accords. If the fan runs after removing the key on a cold engine then something could be wrong with the high temperature thermo switch. After the key is removed and the engine cold and by plugging the high temperature thermoswitch back in and the fan runs then the high temperature thermo switch is bad. Solution: The reasonable solution is to replace the timer control unit. Before replacing the unit it would be prudent to troubleshoot. When the fan does not turn off after 15 minutes swap the cooling fan relays in the engine fuse compartment with another identical relay. If the fan refuses to turn off replace the fan timer unit. Replacement: Remove the access panel on the driver's kick panel and search for a box way in there the size of two cigarette packs with 8-terminals. The 86-89 Accord fan timer unit is located under the passenger seat. Unbolt the unit and swap it with a new one.
Bringing this back to life... My sub cooling fan randomly kicks on for a second at a time, and when it does I can hear the relay clicking away. Thinking I'll test the relay, but am wondering if maybe the temp sensor is out of wack since the fan kicks on and of maybe twottwo or three times again each tim for a few seconds. I once had an 01 Sambar van as a daily driver, the sub fan would run for around 5 min after arrive to work, than back home in the evening. Never had any issue with over running, or what's going on with my acty right now.
Might be the thermo switch at the bottom of the radiator, on my truck located in front of the car, accessible from below. Original one is pretty expensive, on aliexpress they have some cheap ones like 37760-P00-003 which is for the Acura and many other Honda, looks like this , example https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32829537018.html probably fits. Check the pics for size, thread and the spade type of the connector. Since half a year my one is o.k. now, but when the problem comes again, I will try to change the thermo switch, that is easiest. Now in hot summer when I switch the engine off after a drive, the fan runs for about up to 5 minutes and then switches off, no problem.
Cool thanks, I'll swing by the junk yard next week, might be able to grab a switch there. My temp gauge seems to be working fine, so I'm also wondering if it's the thermo switch for the sub-fan. I've found a few diagrams online indicating it's located somewhere back by the engine on the driver's side but I can't for the life of me find the darn thing; anyone know the actual location?
good that you mention that, I checked once more and I probably was referring to the wrong thermo switch.Here we see the switch on the radiator and the fan https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...ke$&vid=119004&cid=183&uid=4552&q=HA3-2330294 37760PZ1003 and that is the other fan, and there is another switch and that is probably the trouble maker https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...AA$&vid=119004&cid=183&uid=4554&q=HA3-2330294 37773PZ3003 https://jp-carparts.com/honda/part_...CTY TRUCK&cartype=30824&fig=B&fig1=520&fig2=8 that switch is probably mounted onto the cylinder head, example Odysee + Accord, item 8 https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~ring~91307-pz3-000.html Have to dig more to find it next time I am working there, if someone knows respect. find that switch, let us know.
When you lift the engine hatch just inside the drivers side, there's is wiring running into a sheet metal cover held on by three 10mm bolts. The wires seem to dead end once inside. I didn't have time to pull the cover off, but thinking this could be it... I'll find out tomorrow.
Haven't had a chance to get under there. Forgot about it when I did the timing belt and muffler. I'll get back to you after the harvest season is over.
Got under there this morning and was able to confirm that is in fact the sensor for the sub-cooling fan. I took some pics with the cover off, you can see it's location just above the muffler. There are three 10mm bolts holding the cover in, and 2 x 10mm bolts holding the sensor support. To test it, I hit it for a few seconds with a heat gun, then turned the key on; sub fan fired right up, and I didn't hear any clicking from the relay. I'm assuming that the engine/muffler was not getting hot enough to trip the sensor, or was getting it borderline which is why the relay was clicking, and the fan turning for a second. I'll keep an eye on it, and if I can snag a relay on the cheap I'll change it out just in case....in the meantime though I'm not really too concerned about it.
Great, thanks for the pics. Now we know where to check, when we have problems there. The relay is behind glovebox Honda p/n 39797SE0003 RELAY ASSY., POWER (4P) (DENSO) (056700-7330) # 13 https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...vQ$&vid=120010&cid=175&uid=4421&q=HA4-2003526 sensor p/n 37773PZ3003 Switch, Thermo item no. 8, 37773-PZ3-003 Honda, SWITCH, THERMO (A-60) no longer produced, have to find a fitting part from Civic or similar A-60 probably means 60°C Thermal on/off switch for the fan motor https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...rg$&vid=119004&cid=183&uid=4554&q=HA3-2330294
For those over here in Japan you can grab a relay from monotaro also https://www.monotaro.com/g/01569276/?t.q=39797SE0003 A-60 is the temp. it seems people have switched them out with other thermostat switchs from Honda. One guy was successful in using a radiator thermostat, however this are typically A-70. The entire unit is controlled by a computer just above the relay. The sub fan is set to turn on at 60+/- 2 and turn off at 57+/- 2 in trucks and 65+/- 2 on, 57+/- 2 off in street vans. This is almost identical to Sambar trucks/vans. From my experience, these fans will run for 15-20 mins after turning the engine off. I've seen people on this board concerned about it running down the battery, however I have never had that happen in my van. As long as you're battery is good you should not have any issue.
Ok so sorry to bring this back from the dead for the 10th time. So my sub cooling fan runs alot. Something I can cycle the key and it turns off, then after a while it will actually turn back on. So this weekend I swapped out the relay, while i was swapping the relay the fan was actually running, when I took the relay out it turned off. As soon as I plugged it in again it turned right back on. So my question is can I just unplug that relay? Is that relay just for the sub cooling fan? Its winter in NJ and I don't need it. I dont want to unplug the relay if its going to disable to main cooling fan Thanks
