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Advice Needed

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by hatch, Jul 5, 2013.

  1. muddy moose

    muddy moose Member

    The add a ground was for the exhaust temp sensor. My light stays on all the time now. I have other things to worry about hahaha the O2 sensor............ half inch pipe thread I think.......might be smaller. If you can find a bolt that screws in.......use it hahaha
     
  2. hatch

    hatch Member

    Well I'm just about to give up on having a mini truck. As I stated before engine is in and ran great. Well today I find I'm not getting oil to top of the engine and I'm hoping I've not done any damage. Afraid I have. Also not sure about water. It has a new pump on it but doesn't seem to be circulating. Boy am I disappointed. Was really ready to run this little jewel.

    Any thoughts or ideas? Let me hear them as I'm up for anything.
     
  3. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    The only thing that pops up is head gasket orientation. There is a port there that oil runs through and if that's not lined up could be bad for both oil and water. The only other thing on water is air lock which happens.
    Hang in there you have too much work in this to give up now slow down and look for little obvious things as that is usually what gets you.
     
  4. hatch

    hatch Member

    Thanks Jim, it seems as if when we put the head gasket on it would only align one way and it also seems that there were dowel pins that helped with this. Been so long i really cant remember. I just want to throw my hands up and say screw it. Just doesn't look like its meant to be for me haha.
     
  5. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    I just looked at a head I have in my shop and it would be easy to put the gasket on up side down and block this port.You wouldn't believe what I did with the intake manifold gasket on my sons engine even with it on a stand.I just can't see any other reason for no oil to the head and if you used plenty of oil in assembling it and didn't run it too long you might be ok.
    If you still have the old head gasket look between 1 and 2 cylinders and you will see the little port with a copper ring around it.
     
  6. hatch

    hatch Member

    Im not sure now what to do, pull head in the truck or drop engine? I have the old engine (which was out of time) that came out of this truck and i'm wondering if it may be easiest to drop engine and replace with original engine. Then take my time and pull head from this engine and check it over. Jim, any thoughts on this line of thinking?

    Also is there any way to start one of these engines up out side of the truck? Anyone ever done this?
     
  7. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Well I have a lift and my truck has a dump bed so it would be easier for me to pull the engine.I also have a vision problem so I would almost have to to see what I was doing.With that said if I did pull it I would look at the cam journals to check for damage and if they check ok I'd pull the head and see if the gasket orientation was wrong and if so just put a new head gasket in with correct orientation and go with the engine you have all the work in.You could fab up an engine stand to run the engine out of the truck but there are a lot of things that could drive you nuts in that too.
     
  8. hatch

    hatch Member

    So can i not re-use the head gasket i have? It was brand new when i put this engine back together. Also what do i look for in the cam journals? Scratches? When i put it together i used that permatex super slick engine assembly lube so hopefully it all held up and i dodged a bullet.
     
  9. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Everyone says the head gasket is not re-usable and as tempting as it is I wouldn't try it,especially if you have to turn it over.Look at the caps that hold the cam to the head and the journals for any sign of heat or wear,scratches,flaking etc. The caps are aluminum so that is probably where you would see anything.These little engines are pretty forgiving so I'm betting you're ok.
     
  10. hatch

    hatch Member

    well i went out and confirmed my fears, i pulled the caps to the cam and there were scratches. not sure what it would look like under the cam so im gonna say its not good. that said i guess i need to pull the engine so i can pull the oil pan and look rod and main bearings but im just about to a point of lighting my little truck on fire and saying to heck with it. I cant win for losing.

    this thing has become a money pit to say the least. Mad at myself also...
     
  11. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    If you had oil pressure but just no oil to the head the bottom end should be ok.Can you swap heads with your other engine? If you do be sure to take a good look at the freeze plugs in it.I had a head that I replaced and they were rusted out and I didn't even think to look at them when I changed. Really ugly and had me close to the point you're at right now.
     
  12. hatch

    hatch Member

    Mr Jim I want to thank you for your patience and encouragement along the way. I really like my little trucks, I'm just ready to ride it rather than work on it.

    That said I should be able to swap heads because I have a
    complete extra engine and tranny. I know these are growing pains and the silver lining (if there is one ha) is I'm learning a lot about these things. My dad now seems to think that my problem comes from dirt dobbers. We plugged all the holes but it is possible a plug came out. I'm starting to think along his lines also. I plan to tear it back down to see if gasket or insect is my problem.

    Thanks again
     
  13. hatch

    hatch Member

    GOSH DANGIT I'M SO FREAKING TICKED AND DISAPPOINTED. AM I THIS STUPID OR UNLUCKY? Well after my engine rebuild problem i decided to put the original engine back in the truck. Well all went well and as my daddy said it was out of time, so i timed it and re installed the motor. Well today i went out and fired it up and she ran great. In doing all this i opened the plug in the thermostat housing to let the air out. Well after a bit of run time it was shooting steam out and did for some time. Temp never got over half way on dash but none the less it never let any anti freeze out. Now it sounds like its knocking. Did it get to hot and if so what could be my problem. It will start & die, start & die and then just turn over. Let it sit and it will start & die and then just turn over.

    Compression check on # 1 was 120 and as it ran its now upwards of 175
    #2 is about 170 and #3 is about 165 which is all up as the engine has run.

    Whats going on with the engine? Please advise me as i need some direction.

    A question comes to mind, should i pull the thermostat housing and fill then engine block with antifreeze before starting the engine or or just the radiator? have any of yall had this type of problem? Could it have jumped time? Thought about checking it but compression seems good. bumfuzzled

    Thanks in advance
     
  14. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    Suz are the hardest to bleed the cooling system in my book. I've learned to drive the truck up a set of ramps getting radiator high( a least 4 or 5 inches). Make sure thermostat is good and run it at idle with cap off. That does the trick for me. Also sure bottom radiator hose is in good shape. Sometimes they weak and collaps with increase of rpms.
    I would be worried about the knocking and 125psi.
     
  15. hatch

    hatch Member

    Thanks Trax, that said this engine sat for a long period of time and when I first checked compression it was at the 120 range but after running it is now upwards of 175. Just wondering why when she was warming up did it develop all this chatter.
     
  16. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    When I fill the rad.I always jack up the front end,put the heater controls to high,open the vent on the thermostat housing and fill it slowly.When I get a steady flow from the thermo. housing vent I close it then start the engine and leave the rad. cap off til it starts bubbling out then cap it. You want to be sure the expansion reservoir is full before you start and check it after it cools the first couple of times you run it.Another thing that is common is the steel tube portion of the line from the rad. neck to the expansion tank will plug up so check it.You can just run a piece of 1/4" copper tube along side the steel tube to replace it.
    You sure have paid your dues on this one I hope it runs like a top for you.
     
  17. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    You think it's bottom end or valves noise?
     
  18. hatch

    hatch Member

    Trax, I actually just went out and started the truck up to see and it sounds as if its coming from the head, what would that mean? Why would it start making this noise once it got hot? I get impatient and i thought you all opened up that bleeder valve and started the engine and let the water pump start to circulate the water until it came out of the hole but it seems by your response as well as Jim's that you lift the front and fill until it reaches the bleeder valve and then start the engine. What would you do in this instance? pull head, etc.

    Should I pull covers and check timing? Im thinking I should. Also i have a new water pump but no paper gasket. Is it necessary or would a high temp silicon work?

    I just hope someone learns from all my ignorance and stupidity because i know Spaner is reading this while doing this :frustration: while saying idiot haha.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2014
  19. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    If its running ok and idles ok timing most likely is ok. Wouldnt hurt to check it. Valve clatter? check the settings?
    Depends on how hot it got and how long it was hot would be the difference of head gasket leaking. The engines are pretty tough. Ive had a few where they pegged out and they were ok. But I shut them down pretty quick. When running look at exhaust and if you see white smoke and if it smells sweet, head gasket is leaking plus it will run hot all the time. Sometimes you can have a really small leakage at head gasket and they run fine but you will notice a little coolant missing over time.
     
  20. hatch

    hatch Member

    Update, pulled covers and found cam pully was loose and wobbling causing all the racket. Timing belt almost walked off the pulley. Tightened and noise stopped. Now I have carb issues i think but im going to revisit the desperately need tuning help and see if i cant settle it down. looks promising at least for now.

    By the way G&R has a guy that is rebuilding and tuning the carbs on a running engine for like $237. has anyone ever had this done and what were the results?
     
  21. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    Thats good new about the noise.
    The carbs. can be a PITA sometimes.
    Sometimes its as simple as pulling it off and cleaning it and sometimes you can do that 10 x and it doesnt do anything. I started out by sending our carbs.
    to Hiteparts.com and having them rebuild them.
    They do a fantastic job. Like new condition. About week and a half to two week turn around. Comes out to be around 350.00 with shipping.
    Sometime ago I needed a Honda carb. and called everyone I know in the mini truck business and could not fine one here in the states. After spending 3 days hunting for it I ordered a factory rebuild from Yokohama Motors in Japan. Got here in four days and with shipping is was about the same price if Hite Parts did it.
    Havnt tried G & R yet but might at 275.00 a pop. Then again 65.00 + - and you can get factory rebuild straight from Japan.
    All depends on what side of the bed you get out of in the morning.
     
  22. hatch

    hatch Member

    Well i called Hite Parts and they have gone up because they told me like $375 - 425. I asked the guy if they pressure checked the carb and he said they didn't they just checked vacuums on the ports (I can do that) Anyways I have a carb i rebuilt that i may just slap on and see. Im also thinking that it may be sucking air between the carb and the insulator/intake.
     
  23. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Have you checked with Don at Yokohama Motors? Last I heard he was getting about $325 for a new carb.,no core.I've bought some stuff from them and they are really good to deal with. Also there is the new outfit here in Ca. called 5 points Mini Trucks,they sound hungry and ready to do business.
     
  24. hatch

    hatch Member

    how do i check with him? do you have an email address for him?
     
  25. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    Just google Yokohama Motors. They are sponsors here I think and Don posts from time to time as Don in Japan.
     
  26. hatch

    hatch Member

    Guys I'm at a loss. Engine runs great but just tends to run hot and purges the radiator. Blown head gasket or stopped up radiator? Also no heat at all. Hate to pull head if it's the radiator.
     
  27. Jim Nelson

    Jim Nelson Active Member

    I've had to replace 2 Suzuki radiators and I took one of the old ones apart to try to rod it out and couldn't get anywhere with that,it was just plugged too tight.I got mine from Yokohama Motors at just over $300 each delivered.
     
  28. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    A cheap easy solution to try first is Prestone
    Radiator flush. Do one treatment and a 2nd one if needed..
    See if that helps, if not then go to plan B.
     
  29. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    On 2nd thought blowing back through radiator might have a little leak on head gasket.
    White smoke at exhaust and sweet smell if you have 50/50 coolant in system would indicate
    head gasket problem.
    Regardless radiator most likely needs some attention.
     

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