Beach Driving?

Would you guys suggest buying the whole rebuild kit plus pistons now? or wait until I tear down the motor to see what I need?

Sounds to me like I do in fact have a hemi engine, the guys at G&R told me if the spark plugs go through the valve cover then its a hemi. If they go between the cover and exhaust manifold it is not a hemi. By the looks of it to me its a hemi.

 

The only thing you know you'll need right now is gaskets so I would wait and check it out first. If it didn't heat up there's a good chance the pistons are fine.

 

I guess I just don't want to lose any savings I might get by buying the whole kit as opposed to getting the gaskets only to find out I also need the rest of it..... but then again if all I need is the gaskets ill be saving a lot more. Either way thanks Jim!!

 

I still think valve guides/ seals are all ya really need.........and maybe head gasket and set of rings for the pistons..........just hone the cylinders and refresh the engine a bit.

 

At what point does it make sense to just bite the bullet and do it all since everything is apart? I mean my mechanic is saying he should be able to do the valve seals without pulling the engine. If I get piston rings for example does that mean ill have to tear down the whole engine in order to install them? Same goes for the head gasket... And if I do in fact have to tear the whole thing apart to do the rings or head gasket then would it at that point make sense to just use the whole kit, or whatever part of it that can be?

Here is a link to the whole rebuild kit
And this is the link to just the gasket kit

Or should I just plan to piece meal it, in other words buy jus the valve cover gasket and valve seals and head gasket or whatever and see what happens. I just wanna make sure once its done I wont have to do it again! But I also don't want to do an entire rebuild if its not necessary.

Thanks guys!

 

So im leaning toward dropping the whole engine and getting into it. I guess my reason being is I don't want to be left wondering what kind of damage was done by that sand... I figure if it costs me a few hundred extra to have the engine opened up then I think it will be worth it. Got the gasket kit today, and if it turns out I have to bore/surface the engine then ill have to go ahead and get the other engine rebuild stuff. Otherwsie supposedly my lift kit is on its way and I ordered wheels and tires the other day, so the goodies whould be on the way!!

 

Well the engine has been opened up and idk what to say, doesn't look good to me but my mechanic says he doesn't see any real scoring on the valve walls or whatever.... There was sand just under at least one of the the valve seals and there is a tiny bit of play on the valve stem, in other words valve stem moves slight back and forth! The next step is to hopefully drop the oil pan and try to get one of the cylinders out to try and take some measurements and figure it out?? Im not entirely sure whats next to be honest. Either way its not looking great but we'lll see what happens next. I do at least have the wheels and tires ready to go but unfortunately i still dont have my lift kit!!! What a fiasco! So frustrated!

 

Actually. ............. doesnt sound too bad to me. I thought ya had a bit of sand in the valve seal. If there isnt a ridge in the cylinder walls I would just hone them and put new rings and crank bearings in. Just because you will already be there. You may end up being surprised what ya find in the oil pan. But dont let it scare ya too much, its only money....................

 

There may in fact be sand in the valve seal, i wasnt very clear about what i was looking at when he showed me. He was showing me the bottom of the head i guess.... where the valve under the spark plug meets the block. Anyway i could see sand under the little black piece of rubber/plastic on one of the valves but he wasnt able to turn the shaft to get the others to open so theres a good chance they all have sand in them. Either way what exactly do you mean by "honing"? Im all for doing whatever i should while the engine is open like it is, ive already ordered a new timing belt, is there anything else i should replace while im in there?

 

Honing is simply dressing/cleaning up the cylinders and reusing your old pistons but installing new rings.
Unlike boring a cylinder which would make the cylinders bigger and installing a over sized piston/over sized rings.
Your mech. can measure the current cylinders/pistons and can tell you weather they need to be honed or bored.
I would install a new water pump as well.

 

Got it.... i suppose that's kind of what my mech was saying, he's planning to try and drop the oil pan so he take some measurements and verify weather or not there is a bigger problem or not. Like i said when he wiggled the intake valve there was a little movement so thats why he was a little nervous but he said he doesnt know what the tolerance should be. Either way thanks Trax, is it possible to replace the rings without dropping the engine?

 

Yup.......what trax said hahaha.......... I think it would be MUCH faster and easier to drop the motor bud. I think you could pull the oil pan easily enough with the engine still bolted up, but............. doing all the work under the truck would just suck. If the cylinders need bored or honed the motor would have to come out any way.

As long as the cylinders dont have a groove or deep scratches in them, honing them would be fine and let you have more rebuilability later. You can only remove so much from them before they arent going to work and you HAVE to get another block. Besides......... if ya drop the motor and tranny you can clean and lube all the linkage and bushings on the tranny as well as check your clutch. Way easy to replace the clutch before you put everything back in the truck.
Its only money right?!?!?!?!!!!!!! Hahahaha

 

Trucks back on the road! Hiiiiija! But its running kinda crappy WTFO! So here's what was done... to my knowledge!

Basically the engine was torn down but never removed from the truck. As i understand it my mechanic was able to inspect the cylinders/walls and said he didn't see any scoring or anything like that so we went ahead and did the rings and used whatever gaskets were needed, installed the valve stem seals new water pump and tentioner and timing belt and put the new alternator in. Good news is its not smoking anymore but its just not running great. The best way i can explain it is it runs "lumpy"... It starts a hair slow and it just doesn't idle smoothly, not up and down as much as it drops down like its almost going to stall but just for a second, and will do that a few times then come back up a little run ok for a few and then do it again. Its very inconsistent. Aaaand it actually stalled a few times today!! When i pulled into my driveway it just died so i drove it around a for a while and it did it a few more times; but only at slow to stopping speed.

Needless to say im not happy about it! I was really happy to have her back but now im kind of freaking out about the quality of work! Does any of this sound serious? Im afraid that maybe there was some scoring that wasn't noticed but i feel like it should be smoking a little if that were the case. Maybe the timing is slightly off?? Or could it be the carb still? Carb was rebuilt before engine was torn down but maybe it wasn't tuned properly?

Besides that ive got a new lift kit on the way! I ended up giving up on the 4" i had been waiting on for the past 5 months!!!!! And i went with the OEM style 2" kit that best used tractors sells. Im hoping between that plus the bigger wheels tires and a snorkel ill be ready for the beach again!!

 

My first guess would be the carb. with it trying to stall then pick back up.
Long time ago we used rebuild carbs. with about a 50-50 chance of them working 100%. They were always better but not like we wanted them to be.
Finally gave up and started sending them off and having someone that does it day in and day out rebuilding them. There are so many parts/passages in them and unless you have a chemical bath system its hard to get everything absolutely clean. It aint cheap 360.00 a pop for a rebuilt here and if you want a rebuilt from a manufacture(japan) by the time you pay shipping its about the same price.
You might try a 100% sea foam through the fuel line from fuel tank, through fuel pump making sure carb. is completely full and let it sit over night. If it helps keep using the sea foan until it cleans up.
Then again it could be adjustments on carb.
But these carbs. can be a PITA sometimes.
Assuming everything was right with the engine rebuild.
If you google Hite Parts Exchange you can get their info. and get a price on rebuilding the carb.
Ive sent several to them and they do a great job. They do a 100% tear down and it will be like new.

 

Supposedly the carb was rebuilt professionally, my mechanic said the guy who did it used a "jet washer" or something like that and did the chemical bath as well... but there is still a chance thats the issue because it was rebuilt before the engine was torn down so i could never say weather it was the carb or engine causing it to run the way it was. However i just noticed today it seems to run pretty well after its been sitting for a while. Today after work when i fired her up she seemed to run pretty smooth but by the time i got home she was stalling and sputtering like it was when i first noticed it. Soooooo if its not the carb any ideas on what might have been done incorrectly when the engine was rebuilt???? Thanks Guys! Especially Trax and Moose! You guys rock!

 

Oh and i got my lift kit today! Just a few questions, is it a bad idea to use the shakles that they sent me? The shakles are just those metal strips with holes in em, the cheap type i think... And how do i deal with the springs? I dont have the tool i need to install them myself so would it make sense to just bring them to my mechanic have him put them in and then deal with the lift on my own?? Pretty excited to get the lift on there! I just hope i can get her running right again otherwise im going to have a lifted pile of metal hahah! Not funny!

 

Welcome to the discussion pal! Out on a limb or not!

 

Standard 2" lift I'd do it at the house. Pretty simple. Leave the springs be. Yes, I would instal the new shackles, they will level the truck out. You will also have to loosen up the tie rods on front and turn them in 1/4" + -. If not the front wheels will be toed in a little bit after installing lift.
So if the carb was rebuilt and the truck sat for a month or two you will have some build up in passages in carb. It could be that. Again do the 100% sea foam through the whole fuel system(tank to carb.).
Make sure you dont have any vacuum leaks.

 

I would say it sat for 2 or 3 weeks i guess, but not any more than that! Vacuum leak is a good one to check, what is it that i need to spray around the lines to check for leak? Soo do i run the sea foam into the engine?? Or disconnect carb then run fuel pump?? And about how long should i let sea foam sit? I wish i had a gallon of it right now i would get out there!

 

And you say dont install new springs?? How did i end up ordering them

 

If you got new springs use them. Stock springs are rated around 175lbs. I think. If you want stiffer front end get some 225 to 275 lbs springs. All depends on if you are going to install a brush guard / winch / snow plow ect. There is plenty of write ups on this forum about springs, use search function.
The possibility of water in the tank? Drain fuel tank. Get a flash light and look in the fuel tank and see its its clean. You will have to hold open the little flapper to see into tank. Use a close hanger. If it looks reddish color in tank or you see junk pull fuel tank and clean it out.
Sea foam, disconnect fuel line at tank and pour about 2 cups of sea foam into a jar, start engine and let the fuel pump do the rest. When sea foam starts making the engine die shut it down(carb. will be full) and let it sit for a couple of hrs. even better over night.
Vacuum lines if they look like original replace all of them. Should have been done when engine was rebuilt??

 

Yeah i had ordered the springs a while back now, just been sitting in the garage. They're 225 lb. ill have a look in the fuel tank the best im able, it has been raining like a bastad lately but i dont see how it could have made its way into the tank, then again i dont know how the sand got past my filter either. What about the giant hole in my muffler? Is there any way that could be affecting how the truck runs? I assume no but someone told me it could be.....

 

Condensation can and will build up in fuel tanks.
We have pulled fuel tanks a number of times over the yrs. and found a reddish fine rust inside.
Hole in exhaust system, depends on how big. The engine has to have to some degree the right amount of back pressure.
Your exhaust pipe end hole, plus the giant hole in muffler will make a difference in back pressure. As to how much a difference I dont know. With two holes in exhaust system I would think it would run sluggish. Guys that design engines know just how big the exhaust exit hole needs to be. No more no less.
You know I keep on suggesting things but not knowing anything about the history of the truck you have to cover all the simple basics first then get on with the more tech. things.
Simple things like oxidation build up on contacts inside of dist./rotor can make a huge difference, water in fuel tank another huge difference, oil fouled plugs, dirty air filter, leaking vacuum lines, bad gas ect. ect.
Take one thing at a time and correct it if needed.

 

Thanks Trax! You've been super helpful!

Now that you mention it ive had to replace a number of fuel filters already, must have got a few bad tanks of fuel, or some sediment got kicked up.... and if i recall correctly there was a slightly reddish tint on the filters, actually fairly obvious i guess so i suppose this would be a good place to start. As for the hole in the exhaust, its substantial! A good amount of the muffler! Still trying to figure out what to do about replacing it. And as for dist./rotor i did buff those a little a few months back, plugs should have been addressed with engine rebuild but ill have to check, air filter is clean..... Not so sure about vac lines, isnt there something that I can spray with truck running to figure out if there are any leaks??

Either way all good suggestions and ill take it one at a time, have a feeling its in the carb.

 

Poor mans way vacuum leak finder-Can of brake cleaner or start fluid, with little red tube. With a fairly cold engine (I wouldnt do it with a engine at running temp.) start it and spray the vacuum lines one at a time, when it idles up theres your leak. Your vacuum leaks most likely will be where hoses connect to nipples or where hoses make a 90 degree turn.
If they are old replace all of them. Your vacuum hoses will run from carb. down to front diff., over to air box, rear of transmission and back towards the fuel tank. These trucks have about two miles of vacuum lines.

 

So ive been pretty busy over the last week, got the lift kit installed which turned out to be a lot more work than what i was expecting. Anyway, as for getting the truck running right i figured it would make sense to start with the things im sure have issues. I brought my mini to a shop last week to see what they could do about the muffler and they were basically stumped. Granted its a tire shop but there's no real exhaust shop where i live so its the best i could do. They said there is no 1 3/8" automotive pipe anywhere.... they were clueless! Can anyone tell me what the best solution is for replacing exhaust? Looks to me like the pipe is all fine but the muffler is junk. Can i simply have the existing muffler cut out and replace it with something else or what?

 

For vacuum leaks I use a mason jar with twisted up toilet paper in it. In the lid I poke 2 holes. I put 1/8th inch clear hose in them. Light the toilet paper on fire........make sure its twisted tight so it smolders, not burst into flame........... Once you get the lid on and the paper is making lots of smoke............... You can put one hose in your mouth, keep blowing in the jar so the smoke doesn't stop. The paper will go out when it runs out of oxygen hahahaha. Any way.......... Take the other hose and run it past whatever your checking for leaks. Works great!!! I'd post a pic if I could.........
If the engine runs good to great cold, but runs worse after warm up.......... Could be a leak in the intake manifold. Seen lots of them........... Also could be one of the vacuum lines on the timed vacuum port are in the wrong place or just not on.......... Could also have a vac line or two just hanging somewhere........... I'd triple check the timing belt. I put mine on 4 times before it was actually on the right way. Had the lines lined up and everything. But after running it for a bit.........I'd recheck it..........and be a tooth off. Was very frustrating!!!!!!!
If you have the springs............ Bring the struts down to an auto shop and have them swap em. You'll be happy you did!!! Much more stable, can handle running at an angle better.. And most importantly...............you won't feel like your in a boat any more hahaha

 

On the muffler............ I removed my stock pipe, cleaned out the catiletic converter and ran 1 1/2" strait pipe. I just turn the radio up when I get tired of the noise. I did have to tweak the timing a bit.............. But way worth doing. Better fuel economy as well as a noticeable difference in the power.

 

Blahahahah! I am Portuguese but a few generations removed, thats quite the technique bro Ill try and check the vac lines this week, ill probably just bring it back to the mechanic who rebuilt the engine and tell em figure it out because it should have been running right after that was dealt with.... But ill have a looksie anyway!

As for the springs, already got them on, lift kit too. But oh man you should have seen us getting those spring in... WHoally *#@(... Didn't have the right tools so we figured out how to get them apart fairly easily... But getting them back together with the new springs was interesting to say the least! We ended up getting the bottom part of the strut with springs and the upper mounting assembly on and jacking the spindle/hub up until the bolt on top of the strut pushed through the whole in the body just under the seat and got the nut on! But wow it took a few tries anyway, had to put a board sticking up into the ceiling to hold the body down too! Hilarious! You would have loved it moose! I suspect anyway LOL! Thanks again Moose! Any suggestions on correcting my camber now that the truck has been lifted? I was under the impression the lift i bought was designed to maintain all factory angles but there is most def a positive camber on there! Ive looked at the camber adjustment bolts but still not sure how exactly they work or if they would on my mitsu....