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valve adjustment time S83p

Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by AaronRS4, Nov 21, 2013.

  1. AaronRS4

    AaronRS4 Member

    I am going to attempt to adjust the valves this weekend on my 92 Hijet as per the procedure outlined by Fupabox in another post. I believe I have found TDC for the #1 cyl by rotating the crank until the dot on the flywheel is @ 0 and checked for the mark at the front of the motor behind the rubber plug, and it was there. Here is my question, because I just want a little clarification... I know that cyl.#1 is the front cyl., but what is the rest of the order? According to the numbering on the new distributor cap, the center cyl. is #2 and the rear is #3. I just don't necessarily trust that since so far I haven't been real impressed with any of these overpriced parts I've purchased for this thing... I'm hoping that by doing this, I can get rid of some of the chatter, and it will help to resolve some of my idle issues I've been having. No matter what I adjust, I can't seem to get it to idle smoothly or stay running @ anything less than 1200 rpm...
     
  2. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    yes , the order is 1,2,3 ..you can try bumping the timing a little bit..adjust it to 9 degrees btdc with the idle at 900 (vacuum hoses to the dist. unhooked and capped off while doing timing) once the timing and idle are correct, advance the timing to around 13 degrees,but don't re-adjust the idle speed ,it should be higher with an advanced timing setting..the re-attach the vacuum lines. your idle will be around 1100-1200 ,but it should run much more smoothly...the mistake a lot of people make is to advance the timing and then try to re-adjust idle to stock specs.
     
  3. AaronRS4

    AaronRS4 Member

    Thanks for confirming the firing order for me, I got all of the valves adjusted, and the chatter is almost non-existent now. I tried to adjust the timing as you described, but I cannot get it to stay idling @ that low of an rpm. I can get it to idle right around 1100rpm-ish at about 10-11 BTDC... A little background on the truck for you since you seem to be the most knowledgeable on these S83p trucks... The guy I bought it from had issues with it stalling when he would come to a stop, so he said he "tried adjusting all of the screws on the carb"... Obviously this didn't resolve the issue as it still existed when I bought it. I found that the slow idle jet was clogged, so I cleaned that out and the stalling while stopping issue was resolved. On a side note, that jet being clogged also resulted in the idle racing while the truck was pointed uphill, and it stalling when facing downhill... I have used your Youtube video for adjusting the carb, and it helped out quite a bit. I have seen a few places on here where guys are setting the air/fuel screw by tighting it all the way down and then backing it out 4.5 turns. But I have also seen people say that they only backed it out 1.5 turns. It smells rich even after the choke opens up, and yes the choke is all freed up and appears to be functioning as it should. I am not 100% sure on the vacuum hose routing since some idiot removed the vacuum tree before I got the truck. I replicated it as best as I could using "T" fittings and the diagram I found on minitruckcentral.com, but the drawing is very busy, and I'm not sure if I have it correct. Would it be possible for you to take some closeup pictures of yours so I can double check mine? I have replaced all of my vacuum hoses, (not including those associated with the 4wd) so I'm pretty confident I don't have any leaks.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2013
  4. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    see if this helps
     

    Attached Files:

  5. AaronRS4

    AaronRS4 Member

    I have seen this before, however that is not what my setup looks like. Mine looks like the drawing on page 2 of the vacuum diagrams located under the s83p library @ minitruckcentral.com. if I was at home now, I would post a link, but I'm not sure how to do that from my phone since I'm at work now...
     
  6. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    I gave it a shot closest thing on my comp.I'm working all weekend as well,and staying at the GF's house ,so won't be near the truck till Monday night..I'll grab some pics for you .
     
  7. AaronRS4

    AaronRS4 Member

    That would be awesome. I appreciate your help with this!
     
  8. MiniTruckCentral

    MiniTruckCentral New Member

    I think you're referring to this one. It's a pdf and will allow you to zoom in and print it out.:cool:

    Hope it helps!
     

    Attached Files:

  9. AaronRS4

    AaronRS4 Member

    Yes, that is the one I was referring to. Since I am missing part #13, I have had to try to replicate it using "T" fittings, but that drawing gets really congested at the end of the vacuum tree, and I'm not sure that I have it right. (Right below "241"in the drawing" I reworked some of the lines today, and had it idling at 1100-1200 rpm at 11* BTDC. I also noticed it would stall if I had the heater fan on high and turned the headlights on. I cleaned and replaced the battery cables and terminals but it didn't seem to make a difference. Voltage while running was 14.2V, and with accessories on, it dropped to 13.8V. Key off voltage was 12.6V. May take the battery in and have it load tested just to be sure...
     
  10. AaronRS4

    AaronRS4 Member

    Ran the truck tonight with the battery charger hooked up to it. Noticeable difference in the idle speed between having the charger connected aand not. I think I'm gonna head down to the parts store tomorrow and get a new battery. Anyone know how the air/fuel screw works? Like does tightening it make it richer or leaner? I'm not sure what's going on or what I've adjusted, but the choke flap is almost all the way closed durring a warm idle and I don't think that's right. The choke is also not adjusted/ functioning as it was anymore... it now seems to want to bog down under a cold start, almost like its starving or flooding. I have to feather the throttle now to keep it going until the choke starts to open up...
     
  11. cdover73

    cdover73 Member

    Aaron, did you ever get this problem solved? I am having some issues between cold and hot idling myself. Idles way too high cold, then too low when hot. the hotter it gets the more it wants to stall. I'm gonna try starting from scratch this weekend by adjusting the valves to get rid of the tapping I'm hearing, which should help some. Then the carb adjustment per fupabox, and finally the timing. I tried adjusting my timing today but couldn't keep it running as you said happened to you. The distributor is maxed out and the timing mark is about 2" from the pointer! It runs good under throttle, but it can't be at the correct settings. I also have a slight tremble at idle. This could be a number of things, including the plugs and wires. I tend to be nit-picky when something isn't running perfect so I will either figure it out or destroy it trying...

    BTW, you should be getting the vacuum tree I sent you by Monday or Tuesday next week. I mailed it off yesterday and it is coming standard postal service. Let me know if it works out for you.

    Thanks,

    cdover73
     
  12. AaronRS4

    AaronRS4 Member

    I wouldn't say I solved the problem so much as I have made due with the parts, time, knowledge, and weather conditions I had to work with at the time... lol... Long story short, when I was working on it, I was working 3rd shift on little sleep and the weather was getting cold so I made various adjustments to the carburetor and vacuum lines to try to find an acceptable combination that would make the truck functional for the time... Adjusting the valves made a noticeable improvement in how the truck runs and sounds, but I know that something still needs attention somewhere. When I start mine, it will "cold idle" around 2700 RPM for about a minute or so then it will drop down to around 1900 rpm for another minute or so... then it will drop to around 1200rpm, but it will kind of sputter, pick up, sputter, pick up, etc.... until it eventually stalls. During this time, (maybe 5min) the temperature gauge doesn't move, so its not getting up to temp on its own... I think I may need to "burp" the coolant lines on the carb, since I never did that when I took the carb off for cleaning. It drives fine, and doesn't stall @ stop signs or anything, and seems to want to stay running just fine with an idle around 1200rpm once its up to temp. I haven't had a chance to tinker with it since the temperature has been nice yet, and now I'm kind of holding off until I get that vacuum tree so I can straighten out that rats nest while I'm in there! Thank you again for shipping that to me, I really appreciate it! I did have my alternator rebuilt also, and that did seem to help the idle a bit as well. I plan on going through and replacing all of the ground cables and also the battery and alternator cables to ensure thats all in good condition. Honestly, I just bought a 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser as my daily driver, and I've been busy tinkering with and upgrading things on that lately and haven't had the time to really play around with the Hijet.
     

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