Anyone know the correct way to adjust camber after a lift kit is added to a 92 Suzuki. I have searched a ton of posts but I can not find the real answer. Just looking for a step by step procedure. Thanks for the info, sure it will help many.
Just was working on it. It seems that if you adjust the tire rod ends to shift the toeing/alignment, it also shifts the camber. Toe the fronts outwards and the camber becomes more positive (top moves inward).
no I have just left mine as is and plan on tipping the front diff down a bit like others have mentioned. Only problem with that is that you must un bolt all of the front end, struts half shafts etc. Otherwise they create too much pressure to pull the diff down. You will find on this site that if you as a question you will get one of three answers. First you may get the right answer, second you will get some bullshit rssponse that is three paragraphs long and once you question themon it they go dark because they don't know the answer to begin with and are fullllll of shit, third noone answers because knowbody knows. Mostly the third very few people on here know jack but they sure do like to pretend to. Keep to the dealers and the parts sales guys, they know more than most of the other jack rods on the forum. I did adjust my toe but didn't notice the camber change so it must have been minor, is this what you saw?
My 90 carry had a 3" lift. The camber was off pretty obvious, very easy to see by the eye (and enough to wear the outside edges of my tires from fresh to bald within weeks and a handful of short highway trips). The change is also quite obvious - it's at about 90º now, the tread flat for an even wear. Just from toeing the fronts outward to spec. So happy it was such a simple fix.
you know I had that problem, adjusting tie rods did help but not so much that I thought it was perfect. what I did was buy camber bolts for $28. they actually move the Struts to make the tire sit exactly where you want. My 2 cents and I'm not full of shit
Tony Evers, great answer seems like you are legit to me too. I had an offset on mine but after a 2 in lift and 250 lb springs I have tires that tip in at the bottom and out at the top. If I lower that front dif an inch I feel that will take care of it but I am building a new house and I have to pour the concrete next week so the truck sits for now.
well another fellow like me (spaner) do not believe in the drop differential technique. I am running 300 lb coils with 2" lift from coils. with camber bolts no binding evident . I am going for an additional 2" after hay season is done. hopefully I will be able to maintain smooth tire rolling. Good luck with your concrete pour. Tony
the extra lift is still on the drawing board. Hay will be in this weekend. Maybe I can get to lift in 2 weeks. Cheers
@rugerman here is a good video on what Tony is talking about. Hope it helps, I am in the process of researching these trucks. I need a hunting vehicle and like the closed cab with heat.
Yes. Trying to get some directions for the shop so that they can correct my camber on a Honda Acty truck 1993.
The camber bolts have an eccentric in them, and you put them in the hole, and rotate them to adjust the camber. Jegs has a good assortment.
So if the lift kit did not have an adjustment plate how would you correct positive camber? On a Honda ACTY HA4 1993? Or what are the camber adjustment bolts from Jegs that fit the Honda Acty?
You take out the stock bolt securing the knuckle to the strut, and rotate the camber adjustment bolts to adjust the camber. They probably won’t specie bolts for a Honda Acty. But, they list the diameter of the bolts. My first guess would a 12-mm diameter set. If things are really messed up you may need two sets so you can adjust both the top and bottom connection points. They have been used on quite a few stock applications over he last thirty years. So, I would expect a suspension shop to be familiar with them, and have some in stock.