My '99 Carry DB52T with the F6A engine appears to be burning oil. It smokes badly if I run at low rpm. If I get it up to constant high rpm's at highway speed, the smoke slowly goes away.
Have you changed the oil on the truck since importation? When we get a load of trucks in, we change the oil on them and they smoke a little for the first couple miles and then they quit.
its comon on import trucks due to the fact that when the are jacked up in a container the rear valve springs seals are soaked in oil (more than the should be). Oil goes past the rings when the truck is tilted up for too long (Container ride,etc). The seals go bad (kind of melt). At higher speed the seals are tighter (kinda like suction), therefore no smoke. If your rings were bad it would smoke all the time. Also do not run 10W40W oil! It can cause pressure fluctuation (and blow by at low speeds). Use 5W-30W, 10W-30W, or straight 30W. We use strickly 5W-30W oil for turbocharged engines.
Does it eventually clear itself up or should I replace the seals?
Basically, how long has it been since you got it? If its been 6 months or more its seal time. do not use oil aditives it will just screw it up more. When you buy a truck that has been jacked up in a container (almost standing up) all the oil from the engine, tranny leaks through overflow (breather tubs). Dealers should drain the fluids before sending them.
I've had it 2 weeks. I'm still running the oil that was in it (looked fresh changed). I'll change it (Castrol GTX 5W30).
Only two weeks, then run a half can (its only 660cc engine) of engine flush before you change the oil (be a waste for new oil). Run it for 5-10min at vering engine RPM. Drain the oil out while its still warn (not cool). Drain the Oil Filter. Examine the oil for any parts, metal, rubber, etc. Filler up with fresh Oil and take her for a spin (at least 15-20 minutes).
That's exactly what & had planned to do. I've also been using a light mix of Lucas injector cleaner for the first few tanks. I've got the service manual in the mail. Wanted to get that before I did anything.
OK, smoke is not going away. I've changed the oil twice(Castrol GTX 30w) and added a can of Restore (helps rings and seal leaks) at the last change. If anything, the smoke has become worse.
I still have plenty of power, but the smoke has got to go.
Are there rebuild kits available for the F6A or new engines?
you can probably get a good used engine (hopefully better than yours) from one of the importers here for a good deal.
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Before jumping the gun, check the plugs for obvious problems, and do a compression test. If all checks out, consider replacing the valve seals. they are pretty fragile, and are a common problem when oil burning is a problem.
It doesn't take much oil to make a 007 smokescreen, so don't get too bummed. If the oil is pulled from below the rings, or from the valve guide seals, it will naturally be pulled via vacuum (which is highest at idle, when the butterfly is nearly closed) into the combustion chamber. A bad oil scraping ring, a small gouge in the cylinder wall (my problem), or valve seal will give similiar symptoms.
And, valve seals can be changed without pulling the engine. Pull the cam, be a good time for a new cam belt anyhow! I've replaced valve seals that were so hard and brittle, you could break 'em like hard plastic. Yet, they start out as rubber!
Where did you find a service manual for a 1999 Suzuki?
I'm trying to wrap my mind around the melting valve seals, and the choices in oil. Valve guide seals weakening while being bathed in (badly) contaminated oil I could buy, but the oil info I don't understand. 10W30 and 10W40 are the same viscosity when cold, and the difference at temperature is not much. 5W run here in this kind of heat wouldn't be a good idea, and straight 30W seems a little thick for low temps.
Our fleet kei trucks (for the AF) run on 10W-40 with no problems.. we have about two dozen in various years and conditions.
Just figuring blow-by would be lessened by using slightly thicker oil, rather than thinner. (Non synthetic as well)