I have a Cushman white truck it will run 18mph then the govner comes in wheres it at & how do you go around it ? I think it is a speed govner not rpm And also the shifter looks like there is 2 more gears like 2 of the 5 are blocked
it is probably an rpm limiter and the gears are plated so you cant shift into them. try looking around under the shifter column to see if there is a restriction plate.
also try searching the forum for restriction plates etc.
SE Saskatchewan, Canada
1992 Toyota Liteace - Mine
1992 Subaru Sambar - Dad's
try doing a search for the daihatsu with teh rev limiter in it. i'm not sure if it's the same or not, but one fix is shifting it into high range inside the trans, and another is jumping the rev limiter wires. again, this is on the daihatsu but i believe there are similarities between the white truck and the american market daihatsus.
I drove a suzuki years ago that a friend had in California it had a metal box u nder the shifter that blocked 3rd and 4th gears...10 minutes and it was removed..don't know if this is the same set-up
If it is speed controlled and not RPM based, there should be a sensor, likely on the transmission. Unplugging this sensor may allow you to run unrestricted. Of course if your speedometer is electronically controlled, this will disable your speedo.
Some of the Japanese vehicles have a sensor in the speedometer itself. In reality, it shouldnt be too hard to disable electrically.
The transmission may be another story. Yes, the Japanese trucks have a plate under the shifter that is easy to remove. But that is an add-on before export. Your cushman is likely governed right from the factory. There may be parts missing, shafts locked, or who knows otherwise possibly right inside the transmission.
I recently purchased a 1990 Cushman white truck. The easiest way I found to eliminate the rev/speed limiter was to get rid of the Cushman module (located next to the coolant res.) and the stock coil.
Step 1: Purchase a coil/igniter for a '84-'85 Toyota 4 cyl. non EFI truck. I suggest finding one from a salvage yard as a new one will be kinda pricey.
Step 2: Mount it SOLIDLY to the chassis near the distributor.
Step 3: Wire it up. There are two connectors on the coil/igniter. Each of them have two wires in them. One connector goes to the distributor and the other connector powers it.
One connector will have a pink wire in it. run it to a switched positive source. You will need to find a terminal in the fuse block that is "hot" when the key is on, as well as when the engine is cranking. easy to find with a test light. Leave the other wire in this connector alone.
The other connector has two wires that need to be connected to the two wire connector coming from the distributor. not sure on the colors, but if your truck doesn't start, or spits and sputters, switch them around.
Step 4: Connect the coil wire on the distributor to the Toyota coil.
Step 5: remove the fuse marked "GOV" in the fuse block. This will disable the annoying light in the gauge cluster.
Step 6: ENJOY! Engine should rev as high as you want through all the gears.
This only took me about 45 min. to do and has worked flawlessly.
Now I am working on figuring out 4th and 5th gear. Seems to be inside the transmission.
senor roho,
Welcome aboard (with a great informative write-up), I have a Cushman project van. I have not spent much time with it (play with my Mits truck too much).
As for as the transmission you prob have internal blocks to your 4/5 gears. Dan has resolved the problem in two different blocking scenarios in the LHD Mits trannys. You can see a pictorial of the breakdown in the photo gallery. Just go to personal galleries and look under "D" and he has two different sets of pix that describes the "fix".
But, yeah the Cushmans are 5-spd with 4/5 blocked. The shifter knob on mine actually has the 4 and 5 stamped out, but you can see where they are...........later, slim
senor roho-
I am in the middle of the procedure you suggest to replace the coil/igniter on my cushman. I had bought a new aftermarket coil for an '84/'85 non-EFI toyota 4 cylinder. This coil has 2 spade terminals on it. So, in fact, I do not have the 4 wires that you suggest in step 3. Got any thoughts? I'm stumped on this right now. Appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks.
OZ
Did you ever figure out 4th & 5th gears Cheers, OZ
any one figure out how to unblock the cushman transmission 4 and 5 gear?
The shift shafts inside the transmission were lengthened at the factory to prevent access to fourth and fifth. Take the transmission apart and have the shafts shortened about 1/2 and inch. It cost me 25 at the local machine shop and a weekend to get them working properly. Works just fine now in fourth and fifth. With the governor gone mine will max out at about 70 mph.
Still having carb issues with mine any one know where to get carb parts for these things, a rebuild kit or new replacement? I have the 33DH VS -150.![]()
heh thats some determinations there.
SE Saskatchewan, Canada
1992 Toyota Liteace - Mine
1992 Subaru Sambar - Dad's
Has anybody else got this to work? The igniter I found for the Toy has 4 connectors and 2 wires each. I don't want to buy a $314 igniter and a $30 coil and not have it work out. The van sits right now with no spark at all, with the foctory parts.
I got a hold of Cushman and they have droped the white truck/van line and said parts are hard to find.
Found the igniter that looks right. Listed as a 1984 Toy, SR5 MFI. Still pricey $175+30 for coil. But looks right so we'll see.
30 mins after the parts got to the shop it was running. The gov/rev limiter is gone. Life is good. The parts came from Car Quest, igniter module #ECC 55-1806 and the coil # is ECC 52-1919. Total was $216.84 but with no factory parts, it works. Wires up easy. White wire on igniter goes to the green wire on the dist/hall switch, Black igniter wire goes to the red dist/hall switch. Power up the red wire on the coil and it's done. There is a yellow wire in the connecter with the red just leave it alone. Now if the boss will let me open the trans for 4-5 gear.![]()
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