Super Charger Build

**spaner** · 01-21-2010, 03:57 AM

...

Math was removed to minimize project discouragement.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XS6ubLFH7A

93 Suzuki Carry DD51T...4WD, 40K, EL+5up, Diff Locker & ELock Hubs, 250lb AFCOs+5" Shackles, A/C, PWR Windows...
Interceptor1 Package...

**Acerguy** · 01-21-2010, 06:54 AM

Awesome post, Spaner!!! This will be fun!

**WELDER** · 01-21-2010, 08:05 AM

I'll be watching, closely

Here's a smily eating some popcorn for you

**miniMOG** · 01-21-2010, 08:36 AM

I have a headache now!

Good luck!

**o8k** · 01-21-2010, 12:57 PM

What affect will this boost pressure have on the Carb? 7psi boost is also about 1.5x on how much fuel you can shove in there too. Air/fuel ratios need to be regulated on gas engines (diesels dont care about that stuff, but gass'ers do). all the extra air w/ no extra fuel means you will run really lean and hot right?

I guess i figured you would also have to address getting more fuel into the mix here too. On a EFI system, its usually a ECU flash of some kind. Im not a carb guy tho so i dont know how it all works for a carb engine. new Carb jets er somthing?

o8k

**o8k** · 01-21-2010, 01:00 PM

I would also reccomend an intercooler to keep your thermals under control. Small vol intercooler for snappy power response, and a large vol intercooler for towing. The boost lag over the intercoooler is a function of the intercooler and piping volume. So you need to watch your "post boost" piping volume to tune the power response...

I bet you will set off your bbq light on the dash too

**o8k** · 01-21-2010, 01:05 PM

On yet another note (sorry i keep thinking of stuff)... Non-asperated engines usually lower the compression to accomidate the extra forces exerted on the engine. Not entirely true if the engine is built from ground up w/ a turbo or super charger in mind, but most comanies slap on one an engine not designed for one, and to ensure no "kaboomage" the lower the compression ratio. your Zuki is alreay over 10:1 which is already considered high compression. I would change out rings and drop compression.... (if i knew what i was doing, which i dont).

o8k

**spaner** · 01-22-2010, 04:00 PM

...

Way back when I was fitting the charger into the very small space in between the manifold intake mount and the carb, I had to adjust the clearance for the drive belt, truck frame, and engine block. Very tight all around.

This was all done by eye, a 2' strait edge and a lazer alignment tool.
I was able to get two mounting plates ruffed out of some 1/8" 316. One for the intake-to-charger and one for the charger-to-carburetor.

Problem being that the original mounting bolts (intake-carb) ran across the sealing surfaces of the charger in a back-to-back "mirror-like" configuration. How can you seal a pressure vessel when the sealing surface runs across the top of a bolt head and the mounting surface needs to be adjustable; to finalize angle and height of the unit?

These are the kinds of problems that I love. Something that a "professional" would say is imposible. This is how it was done.

The 1/8" mounting plates were bolted with enlarged holes and standard bolts, having standard 1/4" (thickness) heads. A 1/4" thick flat rubber seal (with bolt head holes cut in it) was used to take up this differance like a sandwich and the charger was mounted on top of that.

So you have a flat surface, mount a 1/8" plate, two bolt heads sticking out, a 1/4" flat rubber seal, with two holes in the rubber, for the bolt heads, charger onto that.

Fine alignment adjustments were made and everything was "locked down".
Run-up tests were done, but of cource, you can't have a final mounting with 1/8" plate supporting a 20lb supercharger and a carburator, all under "drive belt tention" and running at 7TRPM. So, things were "reverced".

A "pattern" was made by spraypainting the outside of the seals and everything was dissasembled and "mapped" as to its' final positions.

Finalized mounting plates were ordered using "mapped" locations and counter-sunk bolts into 1/4" 304. "cap-heads".

This allows the use of 1/4" plate and 1/8" seal; inplace of the 1/8" plate and the 1/4" seal. A better mount and a better seal, in a finalized location for both the charger-to-intake as well as the charger-to-carburator while positioning everything into the same locations...1/8" + 1/4"...

Clear as mud?

Probably not, I think it's easier to perform a miracle, than it is to explain it.

...

**spaner** · 01-23-2010, 12:06 AM

At least o8K is giving his knowledge on the subject...

An artist, sees a photograph in his head and is not satisfied untill the canvus he is working on represents his ideal image. A builder sees a blueprint in his head and is not satisfied until it comes to life.

**fupabox** · 01-24-2010, 09:27 PM

Just a word on intercooling (if you plan to .. it appears you don't) you can't on a suck through system as the cooled mixture will condense in the intercooler and Kablooie...I'm liking the thread but unfortunately have little hard knowledge in the mods you are interested in...If you need wrenching help tho..I would be more than happy to assist...i can even throw snow on you if you catch fire!

**Little Dumper** · 01-24-2010, 10:13 PM

I wouldn't do a suck through either (intercooled or not), the plumbing is going to be much to long for the fuel to stay suspended. Unless you bolt the huffer right to the intake manifold I would just save yourself some grief and do a turbo setup.

You can make WAY more low rpm torque with a turbo than a supercharger, true the positive displacement ones are much better than a cetrifical, turbos just do it better. They also will make your mileage go up instead of down. A properly designed turbo system can make an engine run at 100% VE at light cruise, something an NA motor can't and a supercharged motor can only dream of.

If you are craving instant throttle response, go super, if you can wait a whole second for the turbo to spool up you will end up with a much more efficient package that will bury a supercharge's torque graph.

jon.

**spaner** · 01-25-2010, 01:22 AM

Thanks Guys!

Make no mistake though, this mod will be done, wrenches will be turned..

RIGHTY TIGHTY, LEFTY...I'll have to look that up again

**fupabox** · 01-25-2010, 01:28 AM

redneck torque wrench??/ tighten till it strips and back off a 1/4 turn...turn on google translate and heres a whole ton of sambar maint. articles... might be some useful stuff for ya
http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/...2150/note.aspx

**spaner** · 01-25-2010, 01:13 PM

Nice find!

Buddy increasing his boost on an AMR 500 with a direct install 80% pulley & belt.
I didn't even consider searching jp blogs, found my first Sambar engine bay pic in no time flat. Lots of project links too!

Thanks Fupabox

**fupabox** · 01-25-2010, 01:36 PM

Quite welcome Spaner......Anyone interested in the way to find a lot of the japanese stuff is to go to google..install google toolbar and enable auto translate ..then click more beside the video/images/web etc...click translate..translated search..japanese to english..then search away...make note of the japanese words used for the vehicle you are searching and write em down..minitrucks can be referred to as light tigers and for example there are about 10 ways to spell hijet depending on the model ... haizzettarukku for hijet truck,different for jumbo cab,van etc...search those words as well...tons of stuff but the translations are at times completely undeciperable,

still fun tho