Super Charger Build

[spaner]

That must have taken you three days clint..wedge


Camera sucks but hey, what you gonna do...

http://youtu.be/GS_Wdz42LsE

Death wobble at 125.
Definitely the rack for the next project.

[Wedge]

just a around 2 hrs on and off but I know some of this stuff already i mean the science behind your trials and all ,because Im building a Twin turbo Datsun Z.

[spaner]

Found this little gem while researching alt/accessories momentary cut-out systems.
+20% hp for us little engine guys.

This was under general engine health, and thought I would add it to the "to-do" list.

http://www.himacresearch.com/books/hydro8.html


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[fupabox]

I've seen a few of those kits for sale in different places before...not sure about the 25% fuel economy increase but it is still a worthwhile project...a clean-out valve would be a good addition to the set-up...good find
regarding your alt. cut out..have you considered a vacuum controlled switch so the alt. only engages under higher vacuum condition (lifted throttle ,idle)

[spaner]

Yea, I think it's worth while for kei trucks in general. I don't believe in the 25% either, but I do buy into the engine health side of the concept. Oil sludge is being diverted from re-entering the intake of the engine. Or a small percentage anyway.
ACV- Auxilliary Crankcase Ventilation. How does the EPA feel about me just slapping an out-flow filter onto that bad boy? No intake connection, "tractor style"... hehehe, I'm bad, I'm bad...

As far as the alt is concerned, a little more R of the R&D than I really wanted to do, but time well spent.
Controlling, as you mentioned, will be hooked into the existing vacuum sensor for the S/C system, not a problem.
It's the switching. A control via the main line will almost certainly get you a fried regulator. Field control will work on systems that are not "self generating" once exited. But mostly, it's a big pain in the butt.

I did read about an ingenious solution from a guy that was using a self generating alt. BTW, these alts run a "voltage sense" line in place of a regulator "power line", non-switchable, switchable. Anyway, what he did was to switch in a 14.5V drill batt, that fooled the alt into dropping load, as the system was "sensed" to be "fully charged".
Just ingenious, and batt stays "topped-up", 14.6 to 14.5, with no load. Smart.

For those wondering, nothing is for free, a cut-out system just drops load to the batt for a short period of time to make the HP available for use, passing, hill climb..etc. Add the AC on, to that, and it's quite a lot of HP being kept out of the mud hole.

Anyway, interesting stuff...

[spaner]

I've bin a bad, bad boy...

http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm

This is a racing truck, right?

Just bought a whole bunch of stuff from them, not cheap, but nice perfect fitting products.
OCV - remote mount filter
54mm oval intake, with BAG,,,

[spaner]

Nope, that's a self-excited alt that I have. Just tried to drop the load by pulling the plug.
It will remain unloaded, if I pull it before start, but will not drop load after that. Hmmm, may come back to that later. Still shopping.


Jamar-TurningBrake.jpg

[spaner]

Parts are on the way, but be careful guys, the internet is becoming a dangerous place to shop.
Clear your browser, weather it be Google Chrome, or EI 7 or 8, clear those cookies before proceeding to the next transaction.....

If you can see an advertisement that is even close to what you are looking for. Clear those cookies man. Before your bank information is gobbled up, and transacted before you want it to be.


Faster than you can say High Jacked...Mother Fracktors are just waiting to gobble up your information...


Lesson Learned...

[spaner]

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Just a quick update on the interceptor.
I lucked into a shop yesterday. Maybe surprising for some to learn that most of my mods are done on the sidewalk. Or, in rushed spurts, when I can borrow a shop for a few days. Usually everything has to be timed to start and finish "on-time". Life "up-north" and "on-the-move" is a little different for some things. Waited in-line for two years, and just lucked out. A single bay and even has power and a ceiling light.
I know, you guys just have no idea, but thought I'd mention it anyway.

Spring mods have been planed and I started on the steering rack yesterday. Bigger job that I would have thought. Although, having checked the boots on a regular basis, one of them had been cracked for a long time; years. Rack was completely full of rust and corroded. All of the teeth are there though, so it can, and will be rebuilt. I do recommend that everyone inspect their rack ASAP though. Easily done. Just remove the outer boot, one spring clip and one wire wrap. Takes 5 minutes. You will be able to tell the condition right away. I should have done this when I first got the truck, but I never saw THE crack.

Explains the "death wobble" at 125...

Anyway, a few things to look out for:
There is only one bushing on the rod and it is on the inner side. Mine had about 10thou play, way too much. Also, this bushing has "breather grooves" which cause corrosion tracts, and support issues. The outer side is pressed against the steering drive gear, "bushing like", but plastic parts, so be careful. The "shaft rider" is plastic, then the tension spring, then the threaded cap, which is also plastic; do not torque this "tensioner" beyond normal plastic integrity; it will fail. I plan on improving on, and replacing all of these components at the machine shop. The boots, West Shore Auto, AKA minitruck.ca AKA...the only problem that I have with these guys, is that I find quite a few websites, and names, and associations, but definitely my favorite vendor. Every time I call, they answer the phone, even when they are closed, they still talk to me, give me info, or solve my component issue outright. In three years, I have had nothing but great service from these guys. 5 Stars for OEM components. Local, CarQuest, but of course, my buddy works there.





Now, a few items from the diagram.
Obviously a low-speed unit, yet items 7 and 8 are both high-speed roller bearings. Why? Would brass bushing components not serve the function better? I will talk to the machinist, but I think that it is obvious. Brass is better than plastic, and I have an issue with the whole drive section anyway.

BTW, WARNING, item # 15, and the retainer nut, should NEVER be removed. It is not "keyed" and may damage components during disassembly. Regardless, it is not required to remove the shaft from the housing in the disassembly process...FYI....

Also, very important; my pit-man-arm has already been rebuilt, via pressed brass sleeve onto existing worn shaft. I took the "pin" measurement average myself with micrometer (10thou play), and it required two jacks to install. 400 miles later, still can't move it by hand, but it is "sweet" off the steering wheel...FYI...


ADDED, Sorry, forgot to add, backyard mechanics. How to remove #8 the needle bearing from the main housing. Dear old dad. Old school tricks. Place the housing in the freezer over-night and turn up the hot water heater, to the max. In the morning, run the hot water over the outside of the housing, using a tool like, "snap-on 3ASH"; hardened "pull-hook"; needle bearing slides right out...too easy...


Rack-1.jpg

[fupabox]

good post Spaner...do you see any adjustability in the rack plunger..or is it merely spring tension that keeps it pushed against the rack?

[spaner]

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Insightful question fupa, sometimes, you make me smile......Like I'm not talk'in all retard, or something.

Analogy;
If owner X bought this truck new, and took really good care of it. He would have tightened the outer slider about every 100hr of operation; about 10 degrees. This would have taken extra good care of the inner bushing, that really makes up the bulk of the support for this rack system. Assuming that the boots were in A1 condition; of course. If the inner bushing is fee of contamination, and is kept "in-line", then the useful operation of the rack is extended to the 100,000 KM mark. BUT, if this, or similar consideration was not taken into account; then no amount of aftermarket adjustment will correct for the already FUBARED condition...a worn bushing, is a worn bushing;

AND needs to be rebuilt, and/or replaced...


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[fupabox]

Lol answered with true Spaner eloquence..an answer and a solution..perfect your dad's freezing trick is the same one I use to install crank bearings on old Vespas..freeze the bearing overnight and it pops right into the outer case.

[copeina]

Found this little gem while researching alt/accessories momentary cut-out systems.
+20% hp for us little engine guys.

HeeHee! That would get me almost to 40HP!

[spaner]

Yup. It's surprising to me to read just how much bad info there is on the net. A lot of people are of the opinion that a set amount of hp is required to "spin" an alt, regardless of electrical load, or RPMs. This just is not true. For you pegers, I should think that your day-time-driving lights are just killing your MPG..fuel costs. One of those things that make me go "hmmm". The EPA is all about econo and emissions and fuel prices are outrageous, but the provence mandates everyone to drive around during the day with their lights ON??? Why don't we just turn on the street lights as well. Safety concern my @ss.
Drill a hole in the side and install a single LED.


Finished the steering rack rebuild. Just waiting for the boots to come in. Decided to just replace the shaft inner end main bushing, with a single keyed-top brass "slide fit". Machinist said tolerances were good on the rest. Greased with "red tack". With everything back together, it's like new, very tight. With boots, rebuild is about $200.
Wanted to put a spacer on the top of the pitman arm, but can't get it off. That one was too good.

[spaner]

Worked a bit more on the air systems.
Two breathers off the valve cover PCV. One hose off the cover runs through PCV valve direct to intake manifold. The other larger free-flow hose runs direct to the air filter box. K&N OCV filter is on the way for one port off the valve cover, second valve cover port and intake manifold port will both be "capped" with blow-off sleeves.

Also, took apart the OEM air box to confirm vacuum line functions, before installing custom K&N air intake filter (mass air flow increase). Found my first "made in canada" part. The hot air flow controller. Consisting of two outside lines (side-by-side) and one inside "sense" line, placed in the direct "in flow air" plenum. Also, a "T"ed vacuum line plumed to an internal "cap-valve" with thermal components.

I don't want to get too complicated, suffice to say, that if you are not running OEM air box and/or exhaust heater hoses are not in place, things are not going to operate the way they were designed to. When things are all warmed up, the capped valve opens the line, sucking in air from the box. This dumps the air flow valve to strait air, and also leans the engine by doing so. Hope that's not too hard to understand.

Anyway, changing mine to the K&N system, the vacuum line will be plumed to the filter with check-valve only. No loss of boost, sightly leaner during cruise, slightly richer during boost.

Will the fun with this toy never end?