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How to replace boot(s) and CV??

Discussion in 'Subaru Sambar' started by saxman2u, Jun 26, 2010.

  1. saxman2u

    saxman2u New Member

    I noticed that one of my boots is torn. It is in the rear on the driver's side, not by the tire, the inner one. How hard are these to replace? How do you replace it?

    Also, when in 4WD, I hear a clicking up front. How hard is it to replace a CV joint up front? I put the crossroads 2" lift on last year FYI.

    I am a Ford guy, so this is all new to me. A manual would be great for this thing (I have only come across one), and we do love our 1992 Sambar.

    Thanks...
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2010
  2. sambar606

    sambar606 New Member

    I replaced my front outter CV boot a while back. It was fairly easy to get the CV axel out, the inner end has a roll pin locking it in so make sure to pop that out before yanking on it. The hard part was taking the joint apart, cleaning it all up, greasing it up, and putting it back together. I don't think there is any way to replace the boot without taking the joint apart. Luckily I have a mechanic friend who helped out a lot.

    I would just take the CV axel out and take it into to a mechanic, unless you have the right tools and knowledge for the job.

    Hope that helps!
     
  3. sambar606

    sambar606 New Member

    Also, be sure to repair it as soon as possible. The longer you wait, the more dirt will get in there and damage the bearings. A new Sambar CV joint or axel will cost you big bucks!!
     
  4. captain_dc

    captain_dc New Member

    CV Joint Replacement

    I've researched the "clicking" sounds like required replacement of the CV joint.

    Both my front boots are torn and it sounds like one is already gone so I am going to be doing the CV joint replacement myself.

    Any advice on a source for a new one would be apreciated. Also, anyone that knows...must you pull the whole axle or can you just replace the joint with the rest attached?

    I know there are companies that will take the axle and do the job for you but in my case shipping distance is an isue as well as that pesky cross border from canada thing.

    DC
     
  5. MiniBrutes

    MiniBrutes Member

    Remove the entire axle to do the job. You may just want to find a good used axle. You can pull the boots off, check it out and grease it on the bench, then pop it in.

    I think front CV kits for the Subie are hard to find.
     
  6. captain_dc

    captain_dc New Member

    Replaced Boots and an Axle

    I had both Front Axle's out on Friday.
    I replaced one Axle and CV's with one I got complete with new boots from Minibrutes out of Victoria. The other had only had a blown boot for a couple of weeks so I puled off both ends, repacked the bearings, replaced the boots and re-instaled the axle.

    The Axle's come out like so:
    Jack up high enouph to work underneath
    Remove Wheel
    Remove main nut, you will need someone to hold the brake on tight.
    Punch out the roll pin at the top (use the right size punch or you might get stuck up there for 2 hours like I did).
    Undo the wheel end of the steering tie rod and tie it up out of the way
    *some say you can now wigle the axle out, I found I could not*
    Remove the nut from the ball joint on the Trailing arm and pull the bolt from the sway bar attached to the Trailing arm, you can now pull down the trailing arm to release the wheel asembly and the axle will pop right out!

    If you have a complete axle with cv's and new boots you can install in reverse order. Since I was trying to save one of my Axle's I pulled the CV's off the axle, cleaned the hell out of them with a varsol bath, repacked the bearings (be sure to use the special cv grease) and put on new boots.

    When removing the wheel side bearing it took some hard tapping with the axle in the vice but it poped off. With the inside bearing I tapped it off but a better way (and how I asembled it) is:

    remove the circlip at the top of the bearing that prevents the balls from coming all the way out
    Remove the outside off the bearing
    You should now have just the bearing around the ball
    You can now remove the circlip off the end off the axle and slide the rest of the bearing off

    I apologize for any terms are confusing language, but I am no mechanic and this is the best I can come up with. I know it would have helped me when I initialy tackled this job.

    DC
     
  7. Stuff99

    Stuff99 Moderator Staff Member

    I changed my boots on the liteace and didnt have to replace the CV joint. just washed and scrubbed the heck out of the joints in a parts washer and got it all cleaned out. no clicking sounds etc. Also toyota had a CV joint kit that had both boots and both greases and new clips etc. set me back about $600 though... but it was OEM.
     
  8. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    s...ss..sss..ss.s.suh..six hundred for 2 boots!!!!...yeeouch
     
  9. Stuff99

    Stuff99 Moderator Staff Member

    for both sides inner and outer, grease and bands. yeah i know it was up there but i knew they would work. not go to replace and find out they are not the right size, the bands dont fit, no grease or the rubber being something cheap and tearing right away. they better last another 100K+!!

    also they wanted 800 for a cv joint per side!!
     
  10. Sambarmon92

    Sambarmon92 Member

    Thanks for the write up captain dc. Would you happen to have the part # for the outer boots ?
     

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