Ok, got it done. I have lots of pics. First are the measurements from the floor to the top of the fender. Both sides are at about 25.5" After jacking it up and putting it on jack stands, I removed the wheels. (of course) Then I removed the bolt that holds the brake line (size 12mm) and the bolt that holds the bottom of the strut (not sure of the size, I used a 9/16") Then, I had to remove the drivers seat. There are 4 bolts (size 12mm) holding the seat, and for one of them, I had to remove the seat belt (size 17mm). Next, I removed the bolts on top of the strut (size 12mm) Then, a few taps and tugs here and there, and a pry with a screwdriver and the were out.
Next, I took the struts and drove to the auto dealership where my brother-in-law works. Here are a few pics of the springs and the machine we used to compress them. Notice, I did not cut anything off the new springs to make them fit. But, we did have to make sure to line everything up when going back with the new springs. The new spring installed on the strut. Then, back home to re-install. Pretty much just did everything in reverse order of removal. I always give everything a shot of Fluid Film when going back together. I put the bottom of the struts back in first, then the top. It seems the CV shaft may have come out of the gear box and was holding me from pushing the top over enough to line up with the top holes. A twist on the hub helped line it back up. On one side, I had to get the floor jack under the hub to push it back up so that I could get the top nuts on, but on the other side, I was able to do it by hand.
And now for the results. It seems that I got a lift of about 1.5" on the left side, and about 1/2" on the driver's side. I went back and re-measured and got the same results. I'm not sure why that happened, but I'll have to get under there and see if I can see any differences. These first pics are of the passenger side (left side) These pics are of the driver's side. This last pic is a front view after the spring replacement. My wife and I got in it for a test drive. Together we weigh about 370 lbs, but I won't say what each of us weighs. The ride was a little stiffer than before, but the best thing is that it did NOT bottom out as it did before. We only rode for about 1/2 mile, but it's a ride we have done often between my house and my parents through the field. The tires would rub several times before the spring change, but never did after the change. I am very pleased with the results. I just need to get it back to the deer lease for the real test. Now I need to start thinking of my next project for my Baby NPR..........
Very nice. I'm sure that Acty guys are going to appreciate that a lot. Good detail... A few comments, The lift difference could be due to the fact that the strut was not seated properly before and or after. Considering the design of the hub-to-strut mounting. Also, possible, that the right side strut shaft bottom has become contaminated. As it would have seen the top of it's travel, almost never. It may just work itself out, after a few bush miles. Camber correction for you would not be a big factor, as I take it that you are using it at low speeds on the deer lease... Something others may want to consider. The only thing that I would recommend, is that you service the brake calipers before bringing it back out. Remove them from the hub, and make sure that the pad-slider moves freely back and forth. This may need some attention. I'm doing some front end work right now, and my caliper sliders were seized so bad that it took my Big-A@@-hammer, just to get it all apart. Nice wright-up...
Thanks for the comments Spaner. I did the brakes about a year ago, when I had everything apart for a CV joint rebuild. I even found some new brake pads that were an exact match. One thing I forgot to mention is the nut on top of the strut that has to be removed to take the top off. I didn't get any pics of that. It takes a 17mm box wrench, and a 6mm hex wrench (allen wrench). It was not as difficult as I expected it would be to remove the nut.
Yes. CarQuest part number FRI B576 Or you can go to post #6 in this thread. http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?9505-brakes OH CRAP!!! I just re-read that thread, and realized it was the REAR that I changed. Sorry guys. I'll have to look at my front brakes again.....
Today I checked the air pressure in my tires, and there was a significant difference, thus accounting for some of the height difference. When I got the tire pressure equalized in both front tires,(17 psi) the height difference is now only 1/2". So, I'm still not sure what's going on, but it seems I got 1.5" lift on one side and 1.0" lift on the other side by changing the springs.
Good evening folks, Does anyone have info on the free length on the 300# spring? And free length of the 275# spring? Many thanks.
any one tried using longer springs with a softer weight rating?? I've been digging into our race junk and pulled out two sets of c/o springs one set of 10"x 250# and one set of 12"x250#.