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Aluminum plate for dump bed liner?

Discussion in 'Daihatsu Hi jet' started by antfarmer, Apr 21, 2011.

  1. antfarmer

    antfarmer Member

    I was researching the price (and transport complications) for getting my dump bed lined with Line-X or Herculiner. Since I'll be using the dump bed mostly for moving firewood and dumping it where I want it, a smooth surface might be more advantageous than a rubbery textured surface.

    I called a few places about getting a 4x6 sheet of aluminum or stainless steel cut. The original dump bed has some surface rust and pitting but no holes yet. The price of 1/8th inch thick aluminum would be about $135, which is more than Herculiner but about a third of a Line-X treatment. I was thinking of first wirebrushing the bed, treating it with some rust converter paint, and adhering the aluminum plate to the steel bed with construction adhesive or something similar, and then caulking the seam with silicone. The eighth inch thick aluminum would weigh (I've been told) about 40 pounds. Plain steel would be a lot more weight, stainless would be rather expensive. I think if I really used a lot of adhesive, I wouldn't have any problems with a battery effect of two metals touching and causing some galvanic oxidation.

    Anybody tried this yet or have any opinion? It might get some dents from use but it seems like it should outlast a spray on liner, especially if I'm going to have rocks, gravel, and lots of firewood being loaded and dumped from the bed regularly, and I'm guessing all the loose bark will be a lot easier to sweep out than withe the textured bed liner stuff.


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    Last edited: Apr 21, 2011
  2. TRAX and HORNS

    TRAX and HORNS Well-Known Member

    I'd go with the aluminum sheet. Drill some holes for water drainage when the silicon wears out or gets rubbed off from the rocks and wood.
     
  3. Stuff99

    Stuff99 Moderator Staff Member

    id just sand blast it and use a ton of rustoleum on it
     
  4. kegoangoango

    kegoangoango Member

    Be sure you powder coat or anodize the aluminum. Aluminum and steel (basically iron) are metals that react differently to electrolytes (anything other than distilled water!). If you bolt the aluminum directly to the steel you will get corrosion, which will destory it.

    Personally, I'd Line-X (or similar) the bed (which is what I did on my bed). Your bed tilt looks plenty high enough to dump the wood even with a rubberized floor.
     
  5. antfarmer

    antfarmer Member

    I would not know how to do a do it yourself anodization of a big plate of aluminum. I was basically going to rely on a thick coat of rubbery construction adhesive to insulate the aluminum from the painted steel floor.

    I had every intention of using Line-X, but basically I've thrown up my hands in frustration. I located the local person who applies Line-X and asked for a quote. I sent measurements, photos etc. and said I just wanted a ball park estimate of the cost for the bed and the floor of the cab. He did not want to do the cab, and he would not give me any sort of rough estimate, he wanted me to bring the Hijet in for the estimate. I tried to explain that a rough estimate would be fine for now, that I had no trailer or vehicle that could haul this thing around, and it would be pretty much a whole wasted day and a lot of money to rend a trailer and truck just to haul this in to get a rough estimate. How difficult can it be to estimate the cost for prepping and lining a 4.5x6' bed? I know that some pickups got this done for about $400.
    It has been about a week since my last email to this guy and still no answer. Basically, if a business is not motivated enough to follow up and work with me on a solution, I just have to move on to the next best logical solution, and right now I am thinking that the aluminum plate might be a superior solution both in cost and in durability, especially if there is a cushion of construction adhesive or RV rubber roofing stuff sandwiched between the layers. I could easily get a sheet of steel cut but that seems like a bit more added weight than I really want.
     
  6. Acerguy

    Acerguy Moderator Staff Member

    I saw Farm & Fleet has Herculiner on sale right now in case you haven't checked lately. :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2011
  7. kegoangoango

    kegoangoango Member

    Just be careful with the bolts/screws in your set up.

    I used Herculiner on mine. After wirebrushing it with a grinder, it was very easy and inexpensive. It's lasted for five years and heavy use (I also did the floor of my cab). It was easy to do and I recommend it. I've not tried the new Duplicolor liner, but it might work well. I've had good luck with other Duplicolor products.

    But next year I'll probably redo mine and use the Herculiner again.
     
  8. Roosessibrala

    Roosessibrala New Member

    Aluminum plate for dump bed liner

    Anybody ever do this or seen it done? Im want to do the frame on the KX80 because the green is all coming off and it looks like ****. I am not going to strip the bike completely to powder coat, its not worth that to me. Im just going to take off as much **** as I can easily and paint on the bed liner.

    Any brand suggestions? Any Prep suggestions? I planned on degreasing the **** out of it and then hit with a scotchbrite pad for prep..
     
  9. Ironraven

    Ironraven Active Member

    I've coated the bed of my dad's 5 ton dodge dump truck with steel sheeting... We used self-tapping screws and caulked around the edges with a carpet caulking attachment and several tubes of high-grade silicone caulk. It's been on there for around 6 years now with no problems.
     
  10. Captain Nemo

    Captain Nemo Member

    Ant Farmer,

    Wouldn't if be possible to take the measurements, and your photo to the Line X person?

    Thanks,

    Nemo
     
  11. copeina

    copeina Member

    3/4" plywood would last well enough. No silicone required and cheap. If you're hauling wood and stone, this isn't a show truck...
     
  12. Ironraven

    Ironraven Active Member

    It'd rust the everloving crap out of the bed underneath though, then he'd have a couple thousand dollar replacement job instead of a real basic repair.
     
  13. antfarmer

    antfarmer Member

    The aluminum plate would only add 40 pounds to the truck (less than 3/4" plywood and a lot less than the steel plate). I think that if I used some sort of rubbery adhesive between the existing pitted steel and the aluminum, like a construction adhesive of some sort, the aluminum and steel would not be in actual contact and no galvanic corrosion would occur. Since I'm using this mostly for firewood and occasionally dirt or gravel, I think those materials would slide out well from the aluminum, and if I really goobered up with the construction adhesive, no moisture could build up below the steel to cause rust. I did buy a Herculiner bed liner kit on sale from Menards at $20 for $49, but my thinking now is to use it to replace my floor mat in the cab and then use what is left to roll on the sides of the bed and inner tail gate.
    By the way, the existing tail gate is a bit of a nuisance for dumping firewood because the wood tends to get caught during dumping when it hinges at the top and releases at the bottom. If there was 6 inches more clearance this would not happen. If you unlatch the top hinge so it swings down like a pickup truck tailgate, then it falls off when you dump because when the dump bed is lifted, the bottom hinges automatically open up (which is normal when dumping dirt and using the upper hinges). So I might have to think of a way to modify the mechanism that controls the automatically opening lower hinges to keep them shut when dumping with the upper hinges opened up.
    I realize that anyone who hasn't actually seen the hinges on a dump bed tail gate will be rather confused by this, but perhaps someone knows what I'm talking about and has already discovered a simple way to defeat the automatically opening lower hinge jaws when the dump bed tilts up.
     
  14. smoothstroke

    smoothstroke Member

    Ppg pitt guard 97-145

    Hey,

    Got a coat of this stuff on my whole truck. Then I applied my Camo to the outside of truck. Bed has only the DTR. I am a painter by trade. This product, PPG 97-145 PITT GUARD is a two component Epoxy mastic that can be tinted to almost any color. I had a lot of corrosion on my truck which is why i used it. Have had this on for quite awhile with no issues. I see yours is a hard dump and mine is not. You can apply this with minimal prep work as it is actually designed to be applied over less than ideal surfaces. Will fade a little over time but should be no issue in the bed anyway. I pay around 100.00 for a two gallon kit. You would probably pay a little higher unless you know a contractor in your area with an account with the Pittsburgh Paint Store. I have attached a photo of my bed and a data sheet for the DTR. Good luck whichever way you go.

    Terry
     

    Attached Files:

  15. greg0187

    greg0187 Moderator Staff Member

    Hey Terry! glad to see your still around! :p Thanks for the info and the contribution! Good to hear from you now and then.

    -Greg
     
  16. smoothstroke

    smoothstroke Member

    Thanks, Always enjoy this forum. I stop in every once in awhile. The best place for info on these trucks. Great place to find parts suppliers. I have never gone wrong using sponsors on this site.

    Terry
     
  17. vancouvermini

    vancouvermini New Member

    After reading this thread - I think I will line X my bed and If i plan on using the dump I will put in a liner for a smooth surface, a sheet of plywood or aluminum. I love the line X and I wont be dumping all the time. That way I can pull the liner and still be able to cruise the strip in style lol.
     

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