The carb is located inside the white plastic box. Lift the PVC hose out of the plastic clip on the right side of the cover. Remove the three screws that hold the cover on. Disconnect the fuel line and the vacuum line that comes out of the right side of the cover. Lift the cover off. Loosen the hose clamp on the top and bottom of the large rubber air intake hose, pull the couple of hoses that clip to it away from it and remove the intake hose from under the truck. While your under there there's a wiring harness that runs around the bottom half of the white plastic box unclip it from the box. There is a small vacumm line that runs from the under side of the carb to the vapor canister. Mine was red and there's a coupling to disconnect it. Unhook the wires and hoses at the red arrows. The two formed hoses on the lower right side of the carb have coolant in them and you will only lose a small amount when you remove them. Remove the screws that hold the throttle cable bracket and take the cable loose and move it out of the way. Put a drain pan under the truck below the carb area. Remove the two nuts that hold the carb to the intake and pull the carb off the studs and out the opening. The bottom half of the plastic cover is attached and comes off with the carb. There will be some coolant that runs out. That's what the drain pan is for. I think I remembered everything but if you find something I missed let me know.
I can talk you you thru that also because I cleaned mine while I had it off. I took lots of pictures so that I would know how all the vacuum lines ran and I marked the plastic case with a Sharpie which lines came out where. Remove the two screws that hold the bottom half of the plastic case and work it off by pushing the vacuum lines out. Remove the three screws that hold the fuel bowl on and lift it off. Push the pin that the float hinges on out and lift the float and needle valve out. Remove the plastic shroud around the jets. There'a good picture of this area in this post. http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?t=1905&highlight=honda+jets In his picture you see three brass jets. You can pull the one marked 2 straight out the get to the jet under it. Number 1 just screws out and number 3 needs a metric wrench and under number 3 is a another jet that needs a screwdriver. I have a set of gunsmithing screwdrivers that I have found are the best thing for working on carbs. Clean all the jets with carb cleaner and blow the out. DO NOT use anything metal to clean out the holes you'll ruin the jets. Clean out any passages in the carb with cleaner and blow them out and re-assemble.
I realize that I didn't detail a complete carb dis-assembly and cleaning but I was trying to keep it simple. I have discovered what causes the problem of the engine bogging down unless the air cleaner cover is off. This is a problem with it not getting any pilot air to the jets. The first place to check if you have this problem is the air cut off solenoid that has the green wire. With key on and the engine not running, if you connect and dis-connect the wire you should hear it click. If it doesn't click then check to see if you have 12 volts positive at the wire with the key on. If you have voltage then use a ohm meter and check the solenoid for resistance. If you have no resistance then the solenoid is likely burned up. I've been told that the solenoid is no longer available new. I have someone looking for a used one for me. If the solenoid checks out then the port that draws pilot air is clogged and you'll need to take the carb off and do a complete cleaning.
I need to take the passanger front door panel off, I found 4 screws, still doesnt wanna budge. Anyone have quick insight? Ryan
You need to slide a putty knife or door panel tool in between the panel and door to pop the plastic retainers out of the door.
OldMachinist, is there a way to plumb around the solenoid and give up a little runability to get rid of the bogging?
The first attempt I made at running without the solenoid I just took it off and made a plate to seal the mounting flange. I found that it still didn't run right because it was sucking air from the vapor canister so I had to plug the hole that goes to the vapor canister and then put the plate on. It runs goods this way but sometimes if I restart it hot it runs a little rich at first. The solenoids purpose is to prevent the vapors from the fuel bowl from escaping to the atmosphere when the engine isn't running.
