Lifting a Carry???

Ok I have read the stickies on lifting and I want to ask at this time who has the best lift to buy? I guess 'Ill go 3 inches and wonder who makes what I need. I dont want to have to build or bend, I want to take it out of the box and put it on. It's for 1998 carry.Thanks guys!

 

3" body lift go for it. 3" basic lift, dont do it. to many guys been there and done that. if you do the basic lift dont go over 2". 23x8x12 tires shouldnt have to trim any. 24x8x12 might have to trim wheel well a little bit. myself i will lift a suz. 2" use either 23 or 24x8x12 swamp fox 6 ply(AMS) and knock the bottom of wheel well up about a inch with a rubber hammer.

 

Do you think 2 inches will let me install four wheeler tires and wheels and have enough clearance?

 

ATV tires

I put ATV Dunlop AT's on my 94 LHD Mits with no lift, AT 25x8-12 on front and AT 25x10-12 on rear. The tires that came on it were 23x8.50-12 turf tires (the one on the right).



will post a pic of front when i get it off camera.......later, slim

 

You can put a 3in lift on the front of a carry with no problems. I did it and I have all measurements of before and after. You will need to build a bracket aswell as spacers over the strut. Your tires wont be looking like the front of your carry is smiling either.
I will post a pic of the bracket you will need to build. If interested I could build one for a
price for ya but I need a little time since a little busy now. here is a pic.

 

Thanks. Yes I may have you to make me one of those. Would probably be better since you already have experience at it. I dont really want to ruin the drive-line just to look good. I plan on using mine around on our property, fixing/building fence and other things like that.I'll more than likely do a snow plow later . The fellow I got this truck from told me he spoke with someone at the dept of motor vehicles here in NC and was told that he could drive the truck within ten miles of his home if it was for Farm use, anyone know if this is true?. Thanks guys I appreciate your replies.

 

I live in Idaho and last year they made a law that allows any off road vehicle to run on any county road if you have a plate they issue and insuance on the vehicle. Its a good thing since I would of done it anyways like i had for years with other ATVs/Dirtbikes and any other motorized machine. Back to the point though. Any vehicle that has a slow moving vehicle sign on it can drive on any road for any reason aslong as its not a freeway in Idaho aswell and there is no limit to owning a farm or being within 10miles from it here either, Farmers lease property all over the state so in your case just tell a fib about where your leased property is....Hope this helps ya..

 

huntidaho,
could you explain a little about exactly this part does? I'm assuming it lowers lower suspension arm. where exactly does it go? did you have to lower the differential as well?
I have a 2" lift, with a spring upgrade and i am getting some binding on my CV joints and i am looking for a solution.

thanks,
Rob

 

If you will look at the stickies at the top of this board, you will see a post of mine about installing a G&R lift kit. I think I did the lift a year ago (or more) and it continues to do well. The lift is about 2.75" which is the most you can safely go for a suspension lift. I also provide details about the ATV tires I bought.

 

Thanks, I went through the sticky, and probably every lift post on here : )
The problem for me is I have the AFCO Spring upgrade, 2" lift with fixed camber adjustment and CV joints that bind. According to huntidaho, his bracket will solve the problem (in a simple fashion), so i'm very interested in it.

I could also cut down the lift, I only need about 1" in addition to the AFCOs to clear the offset of my rims, but this bracket looks like a great solution.

cheers,
Rob

 

I could take some pics with it on the rig and you would have a great idea on how it is setup. If you need me to I could draw up a jig for you aswell if you can weld?

 

That would be great, i think this looks like a very clever solution to the lift problems. Welding is not a problem,so any pictures, tips or dimensions you can pass on, would be a big help.

thanks,
Rob
my email is project_x AT myblackdog DOT com

 

Hey I could use that help also as I have a miller wire welder.

 

Idaho,

I am not familiar with the Carrys, but I am guessing the suspension on most of these trucks are similar. Can you show a picture of this installed? I am looking to install a lift on my Mitsubishi. If the Carrys have a different front suspension, I should be able to build one with the same design, but made to fit my Mits if I know what it looked like installed.

Thanks,

Craig

 

Here ya go. http://i681.photobucket.com/albums/vv175/icw88/Liftbracketontruckfromfront1.jpg

 

Thanks for the picture! Do you have a three inch lift installed in this picture? If so, you just created a great product. The cv joints have very little bend in them.

 

Yeah its a 3in lift. I hope it gives you an Idea for what you needed..

 

huntidaho,

thanks for the pics, they are a big help.

i've cut my pieces,and will tack the together on the weekend to see how they fit.
if you don't mind, what was your spacing of your holes. I measured 17" apart, and about a 3" drop in the vertical? Does that sound right?

Thanks again,
Rob

 

These pictures are messing w/ my head. looks like all that did w/ the bracket is drop the lower control arms, not the front diff. so im running a recursive loop b/c the front diff is still lined up stright w/ the wheels

 

Yes I do see what your saying. I did a 3in spacer in the front and put stiffer springs in the front aswell and couldnt adjust the camber with the spacer position any other way.
This worked perfect for my situation and in my opinion I think it would work for anyone trying to get more suspension out of these trucks that have none stock...

 

It works!

I tacked my bracket and put in place to see how the CVs rolled, and they are smooth.
I haven't put it on ground yet, but it looks like the wheels are going to be square.

Once you undo the top of the lower control arm, the pressure on the CV joint disappears, by relocating it to a lower mount, you get the control arm without the CV binding.

I need to finish it and paint it, so it will be Sunday, before I get to try it on the road.

Thanks huntidaho

 

No Problem. I hope it all works out for you. Mine came out perfect aswell......

 

I've got the bracket on, and it rolls perfectly.

But, I have one issue left to solve. The radius arm angle/length pulls the wheel forward in the wheel well. I need to either lower or lengthen the arm to get them in the center of the wheel well.

huntidaho, i see that you've space yours with washers, but mine looks to need more movement to center the wheel

 

yeah I had to put washers in there so the tracks wouldnt rub on the front. Im having them threaded like a tie rod so I can adjust them easier. I will send you a pic when finished. Just waiting on my bar stock to show up.

 

Adjustable is what I want to do as well, but, i think in the interim I'm going to relocate the mount 3" lower with a plate.

 

Yeah that would work too. I found a week spot on those trailing arms and fixed it by tig welding a 1/4in by 1in plate along the lugs that bolt to the arm. I had the driver side break when I hit a rock in the snow. It just might be a thing to look at and fix before it
ever happened if you have it off..

 

You can see it on the pic I posted above.