After getting my trucks electrical lined out ... Now another problem cropped up on me .. my truck would run the choke and sputter .. Tried adjusting the carb. Decided to check the solenoids on my vehicle .. Not sure what the top one is for but it checks out good .. The solienoid on the lower side is the one that must be giving my engine issues! .. First I tested the unit ohming it out .. Showed continutiy .. Then decided to actually test the unit .. When I applied 12volts to it .. Nothing happened .. No changes or clicking from actuation .. Guess this little guy must be my headach.... Isn't this solenoid the one that acted as a governer to the engine? When it would get to a certain speed it would shut off fuel to the carb? ... Where can I get a replacement? ... Or can I plug the hole? Here is what mine looks like ....
Yep the lower one cuts fuel off when you hit 25 mph. It should have a clicking sound as well when hooked up to 12v. The upper one shuts down fuel when the key is switched to off to control engine desieling. Try Jeff @ www.minitrucksupply.com I got one though Jones Equipment Ft. Worth,Tx. Price around 200 green backs for that puppy from Jones. i know I had to get one. When I mentioned it to Jeff he said he could most likely get it for less. You also might try looking around and see if you can find a used one though the site sponsors.
WOW! on the price ... BLAAAAAA... Well it seems to me the upper solenoid is more valuable to protect the engine from running on after off .. Upper solenoid did fine .. You could hear it clicking off and on. Where as the lower solenoid only shutting fuel off going over 25mph is really not worthy per design (in my opinion) ... Not to say I want to get up to 75 mph in the pasture either .. Has anyone tried to just block the hole or modify the old solenoid to just stay open? .. This way you can run your vehicle like you want? .. I did hit it with 12 volts and no clicking so it must be shot ...
It seems like I saw somewhere that someone cut the brass part off on a s81 and it would not work for some reason. I would assume if you you plugged the hole and left the wire hooked up to the unit that maybe that would work. I have a s81 that the float valve is hanging up. You have to tap the top of carb. sometimes to get it to start. This is the same truck I bought the lower shut off valve for @ 200.00. Then paid the 200.00 labor for the trouble shoot.
Follow-up on my solenoid limiter modification.. 1) Measured the length of the solenoid orifice tube (mine approx 3 1/4") 2) Behind the four orifices on the brass tube - Approximately 1/4" I used a tubing cutter and cut the tube apart. 3) Once apart, I cut the plunger (solid rod running inside the orifice tube) from the solenoid - Plunger is the device that blocks the four orifice holes to stop fuel from entering the carburetors jets. 4) Tube now being in two pieces, I went to ACE hardware and purchased an aluminum 1/2" long by 1/4" dia. spacer from their special parts bins. 5) Pressed fit the spacer onto the solenoid side tube and back seated to the solenoid housing. 6) Take the other half of the orifice tube and pressed it into the spacer until the orifice holes were approx 1/32" from the spacer. 7) Measured the distance of the tube length and was the same length as original in step one (3 1/4"). 8) Added a new O-ring (ACE Hardware) to the end of the tube (old one deteriorated). 9) Re-installed the solenoid to the carburetor. 10) Fire her up and test drive WA-LA! Engine started like it should .. took it out for a spin. Ole Girl got above the 25 mph limiter without shutting down ... Job Complete! Total Cost: .75 cents .. verses $200.00 ??? WHICH WOULD YOU RATHER ???
Dude, you are the man. Dont give your secret away, sell it. Hey, I freaking paid 400.00 bucks for that job. Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained. Good job.
Great job thanks for the writeup/info and sharing. I could of tried to sell coil springs to folks but I just chose to share my findings.
Thanks Guys ... Glad you approve ... YUP! it will sure help out others if that solenoid goes out and they can't start up OR finally had enough of traveling only 25 mph .. As far as the fuel solenoid .. Uhmmmm that's another question .. May have to just remove it all together and fight the engine from dieseling.. Not sure what the cost of that solenoid would be .. However, some lawn and garden tractors do use or have the same kind of solenoid .. just not sure if one will interchange with Hijet carbs or not ..
What kind of carb do you have? I have a Mitsu u14t (1990-1994?) with a Mikuni carb. Wonder if the cut-off solenoids are the same? I had/may still have a flooding problem--I took the carb off and cleaned it, we'll see if it works tomorrow. Mostly interested in getting her running, then removing the 25 mph speed limiter! Don't want freeway speeds, just more than 25! Thanks for any help you can give.
Hi renchjeep, This is for a Daihatsu mini ... Yet I would think other carburetors would have the same type of solenoid doing the same thing. Before you start, I would recommend asking one of the Mitsu guys to provide you carburetor drawing and/or information by double checking your engine/carburetor configuration. Once identified, I would say this mod would work for all makes and models with the exception of the fuel injected models .. I would have to see if that's a true computer controlled or something similar that just limits fuel to the injectors. In my findings on a carbureted engine.. There were three points of interest that governs speed control. 1) An electronic box they call "Speed Computer" which is located under the dash board .. (signaling device from speed box to solenoid). 2) There is a "speed box" identifiable by a box that speedometer cables tie into next to the transmission... 3) Speed Limiter Solenoid mounted on the lower side of the carburetor. The "speed box" (next to the transmission) detects the 25 mph ... sending a signal to the "speed computer" (under the dash) sends a signal to the speed solenoid (on the carburetor) which de-energizes causing the plunger to close - stopping fuel delivery and shutting down the vehicle. I looked into the Speed Computer and Speed Box .. and found that I didn't want to get behind the dash and work upside down or mess with my speedometer cables. Easiest fix was a simple removal of the speed limiter solenoid and modifying it.. So overall there a three components to fail ... If you had a failure in one of the three your vehicle may not start - my modification eliminated all of them .. Three less issues to deal with in future diagnostics .. Most questions are asked is "why can't just remove it completely". The brass tube has holes factory drilled into it called "orifices". This controls or regulates the amount of fuel being delivered from the fuel bowl to the jet chamber. If you remove the speed limit solenoid the hole is too large the jets are flooded with too much fuel flooding your engine. POINT BEING - You have to have the regulated control between the fuel bowl and the Jets with this solenoid with the orifice tube. HINT: If you are having periodic engine flooding - You may want to remove your speed limit solenoid for inspection. Check for the O-ring at the end. Loss of the O-ring can allow additional fuel to enter the jet chamber and may cause flooding to the engine.. O-ring can be found at most hardware stores for replacement. The top solenoid is a fuel shut off to eliminate dieseling or engine run on .. This is a good device to help eliminate the dieseling effect of your engine which could eventually cause engine damage (over long periods of time). Hope this additional info helps... Let us know ..
I'm having a similar problem as TexAcoon originally had with his lower solenoid. The similarity is that nothing happens in the way of clicking when I connect 12v to the bottom solenoid. The top solenoid clicks. The problem I am having is the rig will run as long as you pump the pedal. You can drive down the road in Low or HI as long as you constantly pump the pedal. I have removed and cleaned the carburetor. On the bench, I can spray carb cleaner in the, removable, jet on the venturi side of the top of the float bowl chamber and it comes out the 4 orifice on the brass pipe. It runs like the low speed fuel cut solenoid is turning on and off the fuel.
If you are having to pump it's because your engine is starving for fuel .. However, if you checked the solenoid and isn't operating with 12v being applied .. Read my write up and see if it's something you want to challenge. Nothing hard about the modification .. Takes about 30 mins having all the parts .. Not to mention your ankle by having to pump .. and just think you'll be able to break the 25mph mark .. LOL! HINT: Make sure you clean out the four ports at the end of the solenoid and install a new O-ring... ALSO: Give your fuel a shot of "Seafoam" to help clean the tank and carb !!!!
I'm going to search for that part here in Japan. I have a feeling that the 550 and the 660 uses the same part. Sure someone here, dealer or after market must have it, I'll try and grab a few! Let you know how I go.
I had a chance to dig into my factory service manual this morning. I do not know what you fixed but according to my service manual, the top solenoid is the Slow Cut Solenoid. It has one (1) wire going to it. The bottom solenoid, the one you pictured, is the Main Fuel shut off solenoid. It has two (2) wires going to it. In theory and according to the FSM, you eliminated the main fuel cut solenoid so now the vehicle can flood out and "run on" when the key is shut off. The speed should still be governed to 25mph since the Slow Cut solenoid (Top) is still wired in the system.
It's the bottom solenoid - Main Shut off .. If your solenoid is not clicking when energized .. then you need to remove the rod that blocks the orifice holes.. It may be stuck in closed blocking the four orifice holes.. DESCRIPTION: The tube of the solenoid has a rod that runs through it.. this is activated by a working solenoid. The end of the main tube of the solenoid that has four holes is the orifice goes into the carb and acts as a jet for fuel delivery. I cut mine (in the middle) with small tube cutter (main tube) in half then cut the rod and remove it from the orifice side of the main tube of the solenoid.. Then added a piece of tubing to mend them back together.. (didn't have to solder anything.. it ended up being a press fit.) There isn't much too it ..
I disconnected the Slow Cut solenoid and connected my main solenoid to 12v when the key is on. Mine now runs great and can hit 25mph in low and it will go faster than I want too in HIGH (58mph?)
The slow cut slow cut soleniod is the one that regulates fuel when the ignition is off. All you did was rig the main soleniod to stay open all the time.. Which is basically the same general purpose as TexAcoon.
Does anyone know where i could find the upper solenoid you all are speaking of? or what the proper name of it is?
Great write up, thanks. They look similar to: idle or fuel shut-off solenoids. Search fuel solenoid here, http://catalog2.genpt.com/catviewer15/(S(vmqhwj55qxlccb4543knafbx))/Welcome.aspx Example: www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=CRB219156_0193280549, when window opens, click on the yellow click here. fuel/emission catalog(22MB) www.napaechlin.com/Upload/NAPAEchlin2/Documents/CRB_NA980_HQr.pdf fuel shutoff valves, pg375 idle stop solenoids, pg443 solenoid valves, pg527 I don't know oe electrical/mechanical specs to compare to a aftermarket.
Has anyone tried a toyota solenoid (idle shut down) Standard motor parts (SMP) ES79 or ES81, they look similar in the pictures to the Daihatsu part, and sell for around $100 at Rock Auto. Anybody find a source for the OEM ones? Bill
This solenoid is actually the MAIN JET. They have put the solenoid and needle in there to block the jet to cut fuel. Now another way around this ... Cut off the external can where the solenoid is (leave the threaded section and the hex for the wrench), now pull the needle and you will have the tube with threaded end still on it. Now use an 8-32 tap and tap the hole in the tube, then get a metering rod from a Quadrajet 4bbl carb (found on about any V8 GM vehicle). Use an 8-32 die and thread the metering rod. Now just add a wrap of Yellow pipe tape to the rod and screw it in till it seats then back out a few turns. You now have an adjustable main jet. you should also put a nut and O-ring on the metering rod too before you screw it in, this way you can lock it down once you have it adjusted where you want it. Later Dave
This is the slow cut solenoid, it only affects the idle circuit, and is to prevent run on or dieseling when the truck is shut off. Truck suddenly wouldn't idle. I will try and remove the rod, and the truck should idle, but if I do have trouble with run on then I will need a working one. Bill
I have 2-3 of them damn things. somebody give me the test procedure and i'll test them and sell them along with a s-83? carb that looks new....I got a pile of parts with my roller
I may be interested in the carb......if you could post a pic of it to make sure it's the same ........experimenting
I'd be interested in 1 of the solenoids. They are easy to test, just hook the 2 wires to a 12V battery, doesn't matter which is positive, when power is applied there should be a click, and the little stem inside should pull back. Please post a picture 1st to make sure it is the same. My truck is working fine now, cut the top off the solenoid, and drilled it and took the inside stem out, filled the cavity with epoxy, and reinstalled. Bill
