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Adjustable Radius Rods

Discussion in 'Tips and Tricks' started by project_x, Jan 27, 2010.

  1. project_x

    project_x Member

    As many have encountered, I have had some trouble by adding a 2" lift at the same time as heavy duty front springs. The first issue was the binding of the CV joints, which I was able to relieve with the bracket huntidaho designed for his Carry.

    Once that mod was installed, the next issue that needed attention was the wheels were much too close to the front of the wheel well and the radius rods were at a much steeper angle which should add some unwanted bump steer. To combat this, I lowered my radius rods with a bracket (like on aeroshots Carry).

    This in turn shift the wheels back in the wheel well, but too far back, initially I thought about cutting the radius rods, but I decided to use swedge tubes and making them adjustable.
    [​IMG]

    Fortunately on the Carry, the radius rods (with paint are .640 diameter (which I suspect is 16mm or .629 stock)) this makes them easy to have threaded with 5/8-18 threads to fit the swedge tubes. I cut 2" out of the center of the radius rod, and had each end threaded 5" to allow for the tube, and a jam nut at each end (1 end left hand thread and the other half right hand thread)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    The one assembly issue with the tubes and the threaded rods, was that the threads in the tubes i had (whether by design or by manufacturing defect) were not tapped through. So I had to buy a 5/8-18 LH tap. Each end needed 1.5 additional threads to allow the rods to thread through to the center of the tube. This allows adjustment of the radius rod +2 to -2 inches (I will be running them at about -1.25 with these tires and lift)

    I will install them tonight and take some more pictures.

    Cheers,
    Rob
     
    o8k likes this.
  2. o8k

    o8k Member

    Great Post! nice to get a summary of all the work you have done up till now on your Carry. I'm a few itterations behind you and have found your work (as well as many others) helpful.

    I first installed the springs, then spacers, now im working on camber and bump steer. The only thing i have done different is that i cut my spacers down to 1.5" instead of the 2" you are using. Seems to make a big difference on CV binding, but not happy w/ camber or ball joint angles at the moment. (my 2cent)

    o8k
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2010
  3. project_x

    project_x Member

    cutting down spacer

    my camber and ball joint angles were help a lot by dropping the mount for the lower control arm.

    I'm thinking about cutting my spacers down as well. I really don't need that much of a lift once I can center the tires perfectly (I might even try with no spacer)
     
  4. fupabox

    fupabox Well-Known Member

    good work..:)
     
  5. project_x

    project_x Member

    They're on the truck

    I got the rods on my truck and as anticipated, I am running them at -1.25" from the stock length.

    I'll try to get some pictures including my new bumper, receiver, and plow mount this weekend.
     

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