Lift Kits for early 90 to 99 Diahatsu and Suzuki Mini Trucks Complete with all hardware for $87.95 priority mail to conus Proven and in use by us! Lifts available in 2 inch, 2 1/2 inch, and 3 inch Contact Keiminitrucks@gmail.com
I have a 3 in. lift kit from arklatexminitrucks that I am afraid to install because I dont want to have to find cv axels. How do I know a "safe" 3 inch lift when I see one? Mine has shackles in the rear, and strut extentions in the front. I'v read about "offset" in the forum. Don't know what that looks like. Mine have parallel flanges, with a piece of pipe in the middle.
lift kit I have installed 3" befor and dont like them. (suz.& dai.) I took all the ones that I had built back to my welder and had him cut them down to 2" and 2 1/2" . I put 23" tires on the 2" lift and 24" tires on the 2 1/2" lift. No indication of trouble with this set up. You will have to adjust tow in alittle bit. Make sure you do it even so sterring wheel will stay true.
toyhog, I can't tell you for sure if your kit is "safe" or not. The lift kits that I have seen that include shackles were not very good. Some worse than others. I wouldn't sell you shackles at any price. Our lift kits work very well at 3". All mini truck accesories are not created equaly. Cory
Lift Kits Cory is right ! I have used his lift kits and have a couple trucks that have been used in very rough ranching conditions for over a year now without any cv or created mechanical problems.Also the extra rear spring provided with these kits drastically improves payload weight capacity. These kits are higher priced that some of the others out there for certain...but..in my opinion well worth the extra cost to avoid potential mechanical problems associated with lifting these trucks.....No I am not a sales rep. for Crossroads Imports...I just had a good experiance with their lift kits.
Toyhog, The best test for a lift kit is to jack the front of the truck off the ground and rotate the front wheels. If the front wheels rotate without any resistance then you have a good lift kit! If there is binding or interference then the CV joints are at too great an angle and you are asking for problems. The 3" strut spacer will not work on older Suzukis. It causes the passenger side CV joint to bind. The shackles are not the best way to lift the rear. They are unstable and a weak link in the suspension. The add-a-leafs are a much better choice, although they make the rear suspension a little stiffer. Check out this post for more info or search for "lift" on this forum... http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?t=1021&highlight=lift Hope this helps
So is 2" okay? Is 2 1/2" okay to do without CV joint binding? I'm looking to get some front end clearance for a plow mount I have. Not looking to put monster tires on it.
Passenge side cv binding JRinTX, I ran into the problem with the passenger side cv binding and the 3 inch lift wouldn't fit on my suzuki. Do you know how far i have to cut it down to make it work Thanks, James
Crossroad Import sells a good 3" lift kit for early 90 model Suzukis as it has camber adjustment, but the resulting front CV shaft angle increase will have to be dealt with. Lowering the front diff crossmember, modifying the engine crossmember for driveline clearance and addressing the change in strut rod angle must be done in my humble opinion for a troublefree lift.
before adding a strut spacer lift kit i would check what you have for suspension travel. it seems pretty common for these little trucks to be riding on the bump stops up front. i can jack up my truck 4" before the tires come off the ground, but once i set it down there is no compression left in the suspension. i'm getting ready to replace the front springs with a set that are 2" longer to put my suspension back in the middle of the range of travel and also give me a little more clearance for my 23.5" tires.
i have 3 inch lift on 1995 suzuki and 25 inch tires, im holding my breath. thats the only thing that will perform in ms. mud, wider, bigger.
Ok, i know i am not a mechanic or anything so i have come to you guys for some input. I put a 2 1/2" lift on my truck, i am noticing that both of my front tires are tilted in....towards the license plate. What have i done wrong?
My personal opinion. I never go over 2" lifts now. Look at your tie rods one on each side. They will have some threads at both ends. You will notice a nut (17mm/19mm ?) on each end of rod. Thats a lock down nut for rod. You can break those two nuts by pulling them towards front of the truck while holding a back up on rod. If you dont hold the back up on rod you take a chance of busting the little rubber boots at the end of rod. I use a small pipe wrench on the rod. Do one side at a time and back the hold down nut off about 1/8". Then turn the rod and you can watch the adjustment of the tire go either in or out depending which way you turn the rod. Do both sides till they look good and lock down the nuts using back up on rod. All the while check steering wheel making sure its still in the center position. It shouldnt take more than one full round to get them close and lined up. Just eye ball them and that will be close enough. When adjusting the rods do it in small increments and look at it standing about 10 ft in front of tire looking at tire and down the side of truck. You'll be able to adjust it pretty dang close. I always get it back on the ground and roll the truck a little bit then check it. 9 out of 10 x's I only have to do it once but check it anyway.
I concur on this, I wont install a lift greater than 2", if a customer wants more lift they are on their own.
3 1/2" suspension lift (springs & blocks) 2" (25" tire) lift The MAX W/O having to lower the drive line. NO BINDING whatsoever , But best when you want heavy iron & (2) fat boys up front.