1995 Mitsubish Bravo _ U44V_ 4A30 Motor AKA The Roo'

This thread is going to act as a catch all as I repair and enjoy my 1995 Bravo U44V. I will list all relevant info I have stumbled across below with the hope of helping others out , along with giving myself somewhere to document vehicle info.


Feel free to PM for any specific procedures / questions

​

General Info

My vehicle's info

• 1995 Mitsubishi Bravo Super Exceed with Aero Roof
• 3 speed auto transmission with all wheel drive
• Purchased with 92,000 KM
• Vehicle Code - U44V
• Air conditioning, power steering, power windows / locks
• 4A30 Engine - Inline 4 Cylinder. It is a 660cc ( .7 liter)
  
• Fuel Injected
• 770lb rated payload capacity + 2 passengers
• Great undercarriage condition with minimal to no rust
  
  
• I bought this from a local storage unit facility who wrapped it and was using it as a billboard
• I removed the business info and kept the extremely creepy kangaroo logo.

General info on the Mitsubishi Bravo U44V

• Factory specifications on the 1995 Bravo
  >> https://specs.cars-directory.net/mitsubishi/bravo/660_Exceed_10400.html
  
  
• If for some reason you don't know by now, these vehicles have small engines and are not meant for high speed / full time travel.
  
  
• Average realistic speed - 40-45mph @ about 5000-5500 RPMs
• Typical cruising speed - around 35-40mph at lower RPMs
• Downhill / Top Speed - 60mph . Don't plan on sustaining that for too long at 6000+RPMs unless you are a brave man / have a proctologist on call
• Uphill speed - Will drop to second gear high or third gear low and drop down to 30-35mph
  
  
• Low speed / Off-roading - Not really possible as it lacks the torque / low range needed for most obstacles. It's plenty of fun / absolutely perfect to drive on dirt roads with a little loose gravel. It just doesn't have the power to climb steep / rocky hills without a low range.
  
  
  
• I have digitals copies of the electrical and owners manuals that I can share but they are large and can't be uploaded here. Message me directly if needed or google search and find the download.
  
• I have the English version 4A30 engine specific manual for Bravo / Pajero . It's OK I guess but lacks any real detail.
• Google Lens is your friend for translating all of the Japanese text around the vehicle.
• Under the passenger seat has a placard with vehicle VIN and engine info

Tire Size

• OEM Tire Size - 165/70x13.
• Current size installed with stock parts - 175/65x13
  >> The 175 width just barley fits. It almost touches the front shock mount. I suspect spacers would solve this problem but so far it hasn't caused any issues
  >> I can't really find a good replacement tire with more off road tred. If anyone has a good option for a stock tire size please post it.
  
  
  Some pictures
• Hilarious youtube video w/ japan promotion for Bravo
• Here she is on hauling gravel duty, easier than a wheel barrow.
• 
  
  
• View attachment 22522
  
  
• 

 

Repair Threads

• Replacing Timing Belt - https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/timing-belt-procedure-mitsubishi-4a30-bravo-u44v.24594/
  
  
• Replacing Muffler / Tailpipe - https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/replacing-muffler-_-mitsubishi-bravo-u44v-_-4a30.24708/
  
  
• Replacing Valve Cover Gasket - https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/replacing-valve-cover-gasket-on-mitsubishi-4a30_bravo-u44.24711/
  
  
  Other smaller repairs listed below in this thread.
  

Parts / Repair information

• I found there isn't much info out there on the 4A30 Mitsubishi Bravo. BUT you can search for Mitsubishi Pajero 4A30 and get more results. This helped me when doing the timing belt and searching for AT hot light issues.
  
  
• Don't rely on vendors in the US unless your desperate / lazy / can't surf the internet. Their pricing will of course be higher than if you purchase from overseas directly
  
  
• The link below is your best resource for parts diagrams and figuring out part numbers. You can order other US vehicle parts here to, I get all of my Toyota stuff from them
  >> https://partsouq.com
  
  
  
• Amayama is not as good for parts diagrams but they have a lot of aftermarket options and OEM options
  >>https://www.amayama.com/en
  
  
• I haven't used this website yet but here is BeForwards filter for available parts on the 1995 Mitsubishi Bravo U44. Used parts but they seem to have options for alternators and other parts that are expensive to buy new OEM. May be worth the risk.
  https://autoparts.beforward.jp/search/MITSUBISHI/MINICAB/1995/V-U44V/
  
  
  
• Always enter your VIN
  
  
• Partsouq will ship quicker than Amayama but they are both reliable sources. You can email them with questions and they respond quickly.
  
  

Parts that you can find in US

• Oil Filter - Napa 1358
• This motor calls for 5W30 but I recently decided to go to Mobil1 1ow30 extended performance. It's rated down to -40 so the 5w oil isn't necessary.
  
• Spark Plug NGK DCPR7E
  > You need a deep socket with thin walls or else you're going to have a bad time
  >16mm socket
  >https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V5TPFHR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Part OEM Part #
** Always check with your VIN before ordering and don't rely on these numbers

Oil Filter MD134953
Air Filter MR316495
Fuel Filter - MR127133

Timing belt MD312823

Distributor assembly MD312823
Distributor Cap MD618985
Rotor MD618871

Timing belt tensioner MD195998 / GMB GT90320
Tensioner Spring MD309804

PCV Valve MD198630
Thermostat - 1305A025
Radiator Cap MB957124 SUPERCEDED - MR481218
Water pump MD195193


Spark Plug x4
Wires MD311397


CV Boot Kit Inner MB526006
CV Boot Kit Outter MB886947


Rear Brake Drums
Rear Brake Shoes_Set
Front Wheel Bearings MB109451
Front Brake Pads MR389518
Front Brake Rotors MB587247

Inline Fuel Filter MR127133
Fuel Pump MR134113


REAR Diff Drain Plug and Gasket KIT MB001265
REAR Diff Fill Plug and Gasket KIT MB001261
REAR Diff Fill Plug _Gasket Only MB6600066
REAR Diff Drain Plug_Gasket Only MB001294
FRONT Diff Drain Plug and Gasket KIT MB001265
FRONT Diff Fill Plug and Gasket KIT MB001261
FRONT Diff Fill Plug _Gasket Only MB6600066
FRONT Diff Drain Plug _Gasket Only MB001294
Transfer Case Drain Plug and Gasket Maybe MF660036
Transfer Case Fill Plug and Gasket Maybe MF660036

 

Accessory Information

Car Cover

• We have rough winters and lots of pine needles falling all other times of year
• A cover seemed to be a good idea to protect the glass roof and keep debris out of the cracks
• The website below was amazing to work with. I provided all of the dimensions and they sent me a cover that fits perfectly. It's a little baggy but I added a few inches for that purpose. I added a zipper in the side so I can still get in to the van if needed
  >> https://www.coversandall.com/
• I suspect you could contact them and reference order# COV1016216340 and they could create another one. It was expensive at like $350ish but the attention to detail on their part was nice.
  
  
  
  
• 
  
• 

Mounting A Tablet / Ram Mount

• The rear view mirror in this vehicle has a bolt pattern that sort of fits a ram mount . I am using a C-Size circular mount.
• It's not a perfect fit but it does seem pretty secure so far
• Now that the tablet is mounted we need a stereo that can connect to it
  
  

Stereo / Speaker Options

• My vehicle came with a Kenwood stereo + door speakers. The radio is tuned for the other side of the planet and won't get FM stations here in the USA
  
  
• Removing the stereo receiver trim - Two screws hiding up under the vents. Pull the knobs on the levers straight out, be firm, yet gentle
• Removing the rear door panels - There is a single screw in the center and the rest just pops off. The clips seems solid and I just yanked it with my fingers and it popped off
• Removing the front door panels - A few more screws and clips to deal with here
  >> The door lock mechanism is screwed on, loosen and remove
  >> Remove the little black triangle piece by the window, pull it straight out
  >> The handle plastic gets removed by sliding forward and out. same for the window switches, just remove the cable on the backside
  >> A few more hidden screws once you pull the handle slot.
• If it's not coming off, don't force it. You most likely have a screw in place still
• Once all the screws are out, lift it up off the window trim and out
  
  
  
  
• Replacement stereo receiver - Kenwood KDC-BT282U
  >> https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113BT282U/Kenwood-KDC-BT282U.html?omnews=18491199
  >> This fit the factory mounting plates and was a easy install
  >> You'll need to remove the factory wire harness and adapt it to the aftermarket stereo harness. This is just a matter of matching the colors to the appropriate wire in the factory harness
  >> Gotta love that Japanese quality, every wire was labeled with + and - and said which speaker location it was for
  
  
• Replacement 4" front speakers - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131096PS/Kenwood-KFC-1096PS.html?omnews=18491199
  >> These fit the factory mount with no modification needed
  
• Replacement 6" rear speakers - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131696PS/Kenwood-KFC-1696PS.html?omnews=18491199
  >> Unfortunately these did not adapt to the factory mount
  >> You'll have to drill new holes or use self-tappers but it was really easy and the factory mount had plenty of space
  
  
  
• Big improvement over the original since we can now hookup Bluetooth but would like some more bass. At top speeds you can still here the audio which is nice.

Original battery replacement to li-ion

• This vehicle came with a car battery just strapped in the trunk and was all rigged up
• Replaced it with NOCO NLP20 Li-ion battery
  >>https://no.co/nlp20
• This thing is crazy small and lightweight. It fits in the factory battery location but has way to much extra space
• I ordered the factory battery hold down but the battery is still a bit too low
• I will eventually install a universal battery hold down by removing the battery box and installing it.
  >>> Anyone out there running li-ion and sub woofers? I suspect this may be a lot of load on the alternator / small battery
  >> The reserve capacity in the li-ion is so small and our alternators I believe are rated at only 30 amps, leaving not alot of wattage to power an external amp/sub.
  
  
  
• 

 

First few repairs

• I'd say first up for any vehicle this old with unknown maintenance is belts and fluids
• Luckily the previous owner replaced the water pump on mine but didn't replace anything else while in there, DOH!
• The engine runs hot and at very high RPMs. If it blows at highway speeds you may need to see a proctologist.
• If you're like me you may have to pay a mechanic to do some of these repairs. You may also find out not many people want to work on these vehicles, it's not worth their time. Ask around to find a mechanic before you buy
  >> Update all local mechanics have told me to take a hike. I'm going to have to dive in and do the timing belt on my own

CV Axle Re-boot

• First up was replacing the dry rotted and torn up CV boots on the front axles
• Ordered OEM from Amayama
• The CV's are held in the front diff with an internal clip. So you either need to open up the diff or pull the control arms apart to have enough room to slide it out
• I lucked out and was able to find a local garage to do this repair
  

Spark plugs

• Spark plug replacement was straight forward but you need a thin walled 16mm socket. Amazon is your friend for that
• If you don't have performance issues don't worry about cap/rotor/wires but if you have the budget now is a good time to replace it

Gear box fluids

• Transfer case, rear diff, and front diff fluid - 75-85w or anything near that will be fine Remember to replace gaskets on plugs
• Automatic Transmission - DexIII ATF. No gasket on plug, tapered bolt style seal
  >> A drain from the pan only yielded about 1 quart. Drain and fill a few times for a good flush
  >> When I first got the vehicle it barley moved. Transmission fluid was black and felt like water. That along with nasty fuel was really holding it back.
  
  ATF Fluid Level Check
• I'm not totally sure if the fluid should be checked with vehicle running or not
• After testing this in many different ways I concluded the vehicle should be off when checking the level. When the vehicle is running the dipstick yields erratic levels
  1- With the vehicle cold ( sat overnight ) pull dipstick and check. You should see fluid at the cold mark
  2- Run vehicle to operating temperature, 20-30 minutes
  3- Stop the vehicle and cycle through all gears, let vehicle sit in each gear for 10-15 seconds.
  4- Put it in park, turn it off, pull and check the dipstick. You should see fluid at the hot mark now
  

Front Sway Bar Cushions

• This was a pretty easy repair but it did require a second set of hands.\
• I was getting a clunking when driving. I removed the sway bar and the clunking went away
• I replaced the links/cushions and the clunking came back
  
• I replaced the cushions on the bar and everything is quiet and tight now
• The sway bar is secured with the same bolt that holds up your front differential so be careful when removing
• Luckily it's all so light weight you can pretty much use your leg to hold the diff up while manipulating the sway bar. A smarter man would use a block of wood or something mechanical to hold it up
• I couldn't get them to sit perfectly straight so I had someone manipulate the bar while I was tightening them down to try to center the rubber

Aftermarket Links + Rubber. Quality seems top notch







Fuel Filter - MR127133

• Mine yielded some nasty brown sludge that drained out. I haven't seen gas that gunked up in a long time
• Fuel filter is located under the driver side, rear door. Crawl under and look up along the frame rail
• The OEM filter has some metal ring around it. Remove it but save it just incase
• There appears to be another inline filter on top of the fuel tank. I believe this is a two-way vent valve for air. I don't think it needs to be replaced unless you are having fuel issues
  >> Just incase - VALVE,F/TANK VAPOR 2-WAY
  Part number: MB845469

Engine Accessory Belts
This is where you start busting some knuckles
Alternator + AC Belt

• This one is actually a pretty easy swap. Basic tools and skills and you can do it.
• Loosen the adjustment nuts ( x3) on Alternator and take tension off belt.
• Remove and replace belt
• Set proper tension by using a pry bar or jsut your hands to pull on the alternator bracket and then lock it in place
• A good technique is to roll the belt over with your hands once installed , it shouldn't turn more than 90 degrees
  
  Power steering + Water pump belt
  
• The power steering belt is a bit tighter of a space to work in. I was fighting it at first because I didn't think I could get a socket on it. However I believe it was just a 14mm ( can't remember) but a socket does fit fine on the tensioner nut
• Once you break the nut free, back off the tensioner bolt to loosen everything up
• Removing the belt is kind of weird as you need to route it between the radiator and fan to get it off
  
  Tensioner Pulley
• Now is a good time to inspect your tensioner pulley bearing. My squeals upon start up
• Give it a spin, it should feel smooth with a little resistance
• It shouldn't free spin like a skateboard wheel or bind up at all
• The bearing seems weird and I don't think I can find a replacement
• Per amayama suggestion, I ordered aftermarket replacement option - KOYO PU279026ARR1HY
• I don't think this will work , it may be too wide. I'll find out once I re-install after timing belt
• OEM tensioner pulley - MD307734
  
  

Accessory belts


Timing Belt + Tensioner

 

Rotating questions that I can't find the answer to. If anyone out there has info please post it here.

I'm going to highlight questions throughout the thread in green

• Super Aero Roof - Light up letters
  > I've dropped the headliner and searched the electrical diagrams and see no reference to this. Some mention that perhaps it's a solar charged light / sticker
  >> Anyone out there have a light up roof that works or is this just a myth?
  
  
  
  
• Engine options
  >> Anyone out there with an easy replacement engine options. Doesn't seem like there is anything that wouldn't require metal fabrication skills.
  
  
  
  
• Reading vehicle specs via OBDII port.
  >> My OBDII scanner plugs in but the protocol being used seems to be hard to access. Anyone get a scanner to work on a 95 bravo U44 w/ 4A30?
  
  

 

Hello, I have a 92 Mits Bravo with Super Aero Roof. Was also curious if the words lit up on mine as well.

Anyway, I am curious about your battery setup. The battery in mine needs replaced. Currently has a Japanese battery with pencil posts/terminals. Was looking at the NOCO NLP30, seems like the size is pretty close to the existing battery. How is the switch to Li-ion? Do these batteries need to be recharged often? And it looks like you had to swap your terminals, how was that?

thanks for any insight!

MJ

 

Yeah make the switch since there really isn't an option I can find that will fit in the battery compartment.

More info on NOCO NLP20 Li-ion battery install

• Assuming you have enough slack in the positive terminal you can cut the old terminal and install an eyelet style terminal.
• The Noco NLP20 uses a M6 bolt / threaded hole so find an eyelet that will work with that.
• Strip the cable , slip the eyelet over it , and crimp the shit out of it with vice grips if you don't have a crimping tool. Insulate and exposed wire that could short out
• For the negative I just bought a 6 gauge negative cable from AutoZone pre crimped with terminals. The eyelet was bigger than I wanted but just use a washer to solve that
  
  
• It's super small and needed a bit of foam around the outside to keep it in place. I used all of the plastic spacers that came with it to get it closer to the top. I stuffed the side with foam and a piece of foam on top.
  
  
• I also ordered the OEM battery hold down from Japan but unfortunately it just didn't work well. The foam option will have to do for now. Eventually I will remove the battery box and make it so the OEM hold down will work.
  
  
  
  

Feedback on Li-ion

• Great so far. Insane how lightweight it is. 600 amps is plenty to turn over the motor and support the vehicle without any accessories
• I run an aftermarket stereo and speakers without issues
• I want to test out a 400-600 watt subwoofer and amp to see if the battery / my alternator can handle it
  
  
• No maintenance ever needed.
• It doesn't have a lot of reserve capacity so it dies quick if you leave lights on / door open.
• On the flipside it's crazy how fast it fully charges. Maybe 15 minutes and it's fully topped off with a Noco charger.

 

Thanks for the info! Seems pretty straightforward. Mine does have an aftermarket radio in it, but I don’t plan to run it with the car off. Mainly just need it to start the car/not end up stranded. Can you use a standard car jump starter if it dies or does it require a NOCO charger?

But I agree, seems like a better option compared to a lawn & garden battery.

To upload photo- should be “upload a file” button right next to post reply. Click that then click choose file button that shows up at top of screen. Should take you to your photo library.

Cheers!

MJ

 

• Jump starting -
  *** EDIT , I reached out to NOCO and they said their NLP lithium batteries can handle a traditional cable jump start or a jumper pack
  
  From Noco
  "It is true that jump starting a lithium battery can be dangerous depending on the type of lithium battery that it is. If you are trying to jump start a lithium battery, it is best to check with the manufacturer of that battery to see if it is possible since many lithium batteries are not suitable to be jump started. However, the NLP batteries are suitable for this, and the Boost can be used on them, as well as traditional jump start cables connected to another vehicle."
  
  
  
  
  
  
• 

 

Timing belt replacement 4A30 Motor

This project became a lot more involved and deserved it's own thread.

>> https://minitrucktalk.com/threads/timing-belt-procedure-mitsubishi-4a30-bravo-u44v.24594/

 

This is a great thread, thank you

I am picking up a 1994 Bravo from the port next week

Fully loaded with 5 spd, turbo & intercooler, glass tops AWD

I am sure I will post more here

thank you

 

Awesome, I'm jealous of the 5 speed + turbo. Post some pics once you get it!

Do you know if it's the 4A30 Motor?

 

Yes it is with the 20 valves

 

Just brought her home this week

 

Sweet looking rig.

 

Wow super clean, how is the undercarriage, probably rust free ?
>> Do all of these rigs have the Fuso badge up front?
>>What's that extra gauge on your dash board? And the clear line down below?

The bigger ,most important question in the Bravo world , does your Super Aero Roof decal light up ?

 

The Roo has been doing good since the timing belt change. I've driven a few longer, higher RPM rides lately. I've also installed studded snow tires on 14" rims, need to get the specs, and I've had the chance to blast through some snow.

A few observations:

• This motor ( well at least my motor) is definitely cold blooded. It remind me of an old Kawasaki dual sport I have. Until it's up to temp it just performs way worse / just has no power. Exhaust sounds weird under load and it just needs some time to warm up.
• In the summer time it takes 2-3 attempts to fire up. In the winter sometimes it takes 6-8 key cycles. Maybe this is a sign of a bad fuel pump or low compression? Or maybe this is just the way she goes
• I usually let it run 10-15 until I see some life on the temp gauge. I shut it down and let it all heat sync up (not necessary, just an old snowmobile technique for cast iron blocks on aluminum heads ) Then fire it back up after a bit and off we go, slow and steady at first until up to temp then I let it rip
• I've been cruising more about 80kph but it's at 5000-6000 rpms. It seems like a lot to sustain so I try not to keep it pinned for too long. But the more I drive it the more faith I have in it.
  
  
  
  
• I installed studded snow tires. This car has such low torque that it rarely slips.
• It was funny pulling up next to fully decked out jeeps at the red light in a snow storm and I just buzz by in this thing with ease.
  
  
  
• 
  
  
• 

 

Neeeeeeeeeed Moreeeeeee Powerrrrrrrr

 

This is an amazing amount of information. I have considered the Bravo and this gives me more confidence in buying one.

 

I'm no expert but they do seem to be the best option when shopping for kei cars from the 90's. If you poke around on these forums, the early 90's of other models ( suzuki, honda, etc. ) seem to have a lot of needed repairs piling up. Older carbureted motors, neglected, and in need of help. The Bravo with it's small amount of power accessories and other features make it a really good option. The fuel injected 4A30 motor "under the hood" is pretty solid in my experience so that helps. I suspect when I replace my rotted out muffler I'll get just bit more power back as well.

If you live somewhere with backroads and lower speed options these vehicles are so fun. I would have killed to have something like this when I was in high school , I would have gotten into a lot of trouble.

 

I don't have a bravo, just a "standard" '95 minicab van (U42V) but wanted to say thanks for the detailed posts! Mine is carbureted and running rich, got it with a (hopefully) reputable guy right now. I can tackle some of the more minor stuff but I'm no mechanic and was hesitant to work on the choke/carb.

Anyway, MikeD and Doug, those vans look great, take care everyone!

 

Ah ha, it really does seem that carbs = issues. ( just my opinion ) Of course some old school guys will get all upset about that comment so maybe I should be more specific , carbs in 20+ year old imported Japanese minis can be an issue haha. Do they have Ethanol in the fuel in Japan? Google says maybe but only low percentages? Either way these trucks are often neglected and then sit around before floating to the US. Fuel and carb issues are almost bound to happen. Nothing that can't be dialed in by a knowledgeable mechanic so I'm sure you'll be OK but I lucked out with fuel injection on the 4A30


Is it possible to press the easy / expensive button and just buy a new carb or rebuild kit if you had to? Do they still exist?

 

I'm not actually sure, I looked at grimports.com and don't see anything there, but I feel like I vaguely remember seeing them available somewhere...

 

Cut out the middle man in the US and search direct . Let me know if you or mechanic need help finding parts . I'd need part number or vin to search.

Some good links in first few posts for resources

 

The view from inside.....Poor old girl..........This is where it will rest until the weather warms up, snow melts a bit, and I can replace the muffler / tailpipe.

 

Let's talk power....

I'd love to better understand what's normal and what's not. I get we aren't working with much here but there are scenarios where I hit the pedal to the floor and it couldn't create power if it's life depended on it.


Example : Few inches of snow, sort of wet, no ideal conditions. Stopped on a slight incline, put it in low, pedal to the floor, and all I get is a sad sad attempt at trying to move forward. The engine just bogs down and goes nowhere. No stalling, no sputtering, no wheel spin, just nothing. On the flip side, I can stop on dry pavement, point uphill, put the pedal to the floor and it will accelerate and go. All other conditions seem just fine ( IE, high speeds, shifting, etc )


So, does the road condition and a bit of snow load really stop this thing in it's tracks? It does seem to be that way. You can't really compare this to a 600cc ATV or something that just has torque and lower range gears. This feels like more of a golf cart with 4wd and doors. I would kill to have a low range with 5 speed and center diff lock, but until then I'll be cruising in the Roo'

 

There is the 4A31 engine in the U45V and U46 wide body later vans but all autos
The Bore is 6mm larger afrom 60mm to 66mm while the stroke up from 58.3mm to 80mm

1094 cc SOHC (1997)
Engine type - Inline 4-cylinder SOHC 16v
Fuel system -ECI multiple
Compression ratio 9.5:1
Pajero Junior: 80 PS (59 kW) at 6000 rpm
Toppo BJ Wide: 78 PS (57 kW) at 6000 rpm
Town Box Wide: 75 PS (55 kW) at 6000 rpm
Torque
Pajero Junior: 98 N⋅m (72 lb⋅ft) at 4000 rpm
Toppo BJ Wide: 103 N⋅m (76 lb⋅ft) at 4000 rpm
Town Box Wide: 100 N⋅m (74 lb⋅ft) at 4000 rpm
problem is finding a diff ratio to make use of the extra legs than rev too high

The other consideration is that in Japan Mitusbishi rebadges the Suzuki Carry
and this engine is a very powerful and economical unit that Im going to try
and source for my old U41V

K15B-C

Suzuki K15B-C engine
This engine is similar as the regular K15B, but designed for commercial use. The differences are including different cylinder head cover made from metal with 7 bolts instead of resin material with 12 bolts on the regular K15B engine, different intake manifold position, shorter camshaft profile, lower compression ratio pistons, different timing chain cover design without engine mount (similar as previous generation Suzuki Carry) and different oil pan shape.[26]

Technical specifications:

• Displacement: 1,462 cc (1.5 L)
• Bore and stroke: 74 mm x 85 mm
• Valvetrain: DOHC, 16-valve
• Compression ratio: 10.0
• Maximum power:
  • 97 PS (71 kW; 96 hp) at 5600 rpm
• Maximum torque:
  • 135 N⋅m (14 kg⋅m; 100 lb⋅ft) at 4400 rpm

 

Awesome, thanks for sharing. That K15 looks awesome I would love to fit something with a bit more power. I'm amazed to see how hard I can push 4A30 this motor without any issues...... yet.

 

I just had a 95 Bravo delivered to me last week and I'm doing several of the first maintenance items you've mentioned (oil change, air filter, spark plugs). I'm curious to know how the battery has managed in your conditions? Have you tried running a higher wattage subwoofer?

 

Nice man congrats on your new ride! Is it in good shape so far?


Believe it or not that little NOCO battery survived all winter long in freezing temps but I killed it by accident a few times by leaving a door open or lights on. The NOCO charger juices it back up in like under 30 minutes. I think its a solid option. The install is a little jenky and I'd like to secure it more but for now it's OK

Running an amp and subwoofers is a different story but I haven't tested anything yet. These batteries can probably handle it but I think a regular non li-ion battery would be better. Maybe the alternator is a bigger factor? I think our alternators are only 15 / 20 amps, is that right? I'm not very electrical by any means but Google told me to multiply Amps x Volts to equal wattage . So 20 amps x 12 volts = 240watts. Not much to go extra juice to go around
*** This logic may be wrong , I don't know

Maybe something like this battery capacitor would help the power demand. I used to run these back in high school when my headlights would dim everytime the bass slammed.