Of course I have a few more questions. One I am putting the timing belt in and it has directional arrows on it so i want to make sure I get right. Do the arrows need to point in an anti-clockwise direction or clockwise? Also what's the torque spec for tensioner pulley and how tight should the belt be? Don't want to over tighten but don't want it to slip either. Also I may have messed up but after rebuilding I painted it. Take a look and tell me what you think.
The rotation is clockwise so I'd guess the arrows would point that direction,the book I have doesn't give a torque value for the tensioner bolt,just common sense I guess. I've done 4 of these timing belts and on one of them the tension provided by the spring felt good,the others I added a little with a bar.I think in a new situation the spring would be adequate but you need to second guess it with these older engines,imho. I get the invalid message with your pics,don't understand that but it's been happening a lot lately.
Hey Jim thanks for the response but let me ask this. I understand you saying clockwise but is that looking at the engine from behind or front. Reason I ask is the timing marks on the fly wheel start with T and work to the left 5, 10, 15, & 20. This leads me to believe that looking at the engine from the transmission it does turn clockwise but if I look at it head on wouldn't it be turning ccw? I just want to make sure I'm understanding you correctly. Thanks again and I will try my best to figure pictures out. Thanks again
Looking at it head on it goes clockwise.I know you can't do it now with your truck tore down but if you can look at your brothers when you start it it turns clock wise when looking at it from the front.
Ok so i have another question, I guess one could never be to sure. On the inner cover of the cam there is a mark that i know is a timing mark so the question is there are two marks on the timing belt pulley but one one side there is a bump on it. Is this the side that needs to be on the side of the shield? See pic. Also on the crank pulley is it the dot that needs to be lined up or the long side.. See pic Does this look correct.
Ok the cam gear is right for sure but I don't remember on the crank pulley.Did you take pics as you were taking it apart?It looks right to me but the only pic I have of one the gear looks a little different.Is the dot on yours right over the key way of the crank?If so I think your ok. I like the Cat paint,I made a living for 40 years working with & on Cat iron.
I believe your correct, I think the dot sits above the key. Also there is a little diamond shaped thing above and I figure it's the marker for alignment. Also I have made sure that the number 1 piston was at the top and when it was aligned the piston was at the top. It also looks like it puts the timing mark in line with where it should be. Side note, I liked the way the paint turned out. Makes me really want a diesel and I truely believe I could make one of those little 3 cylinder kubota diesels work.
Sounds like you're good to go.Now get after that Kubota engine,I have 2 Kubota tractors and they are the Cat of the little guys.
I'd love to have a diesel in mine!! As for the dot..... That the same as mine. I just got my timing belt done not too long ago. I used the dot and she runs perfect. Without the cam hooked up to the crank you only have two positions for the piston. Top and bottom. No intake exhaust or power.......no stroke to worry about. So as long as the piston is top dead center you are set. Your timing marks should line up on the tranny side as well. Just another place to make sure all is good to go. Once the cam is hooked up........thats when the 4 different strokes come back in to play. You should be ready to fire it up shortly!!
Guys I hope all of you are well and so i would like to wish you all a late Merry Christmas and New Year. That said I am just about ready to put my truck back together (been a busy winter with work) and like several other posts i need help putting vacuum lines back. I have read and re-read desperately need tuning help thread and i always leave thinking i have it figured out to leave and become more confused. That said I am about to attach a picture of my set up and would like to get it all put together and take pics while its out to post for others. I think i have a 2+3 carb unless im counting in the wrong direction. I start with port closest to front of truck and work to the rear. I have seen other pictures and diagrams with this carb but with a 2 port thermo which doesnt' help me because i have a 4 port thermo, D-A-M-N is all I can say. Here is a pic (not the best but will upload more) for everyone to study. As always, any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Ive tried to fix the picture and here are a few more to give better views. Several things here 1. when i got the truck I was told reverse didn't work. My dad and I went through all the gears while it was out and all forward gears work, reverse acts like neutral. Has anyone torn into a tranny? If so do you have any pics and better yet do you know any place where i can buy just a shifting fork if that is the problem? 2. There is an o'ring that goes between the engine and distributor. I've noticed both of mine leak oil here. Have any of you replaced this o'ring and if so what did you use and where did you get it? Thanks in advance.
On my '95 Scrum with the F6A the top 2 lines from the thermo both go to the high idle actuator on the carb but through a T on one and a F fitting on the other with that in line restrictor on one of them,then one of the lower ones goes to the egr and the other goes to the manifold which is the supply for the whole thing.Muddy moose had a broken thermo and was able to make his run so maybe he will see this and chime in.The dist. o ring leak is pretty common and the only place I've seen the o rings is in a gasket set but if you can find a supplier wit a big enough assortment you can probably find one. Don't know about the tranny and hope I don't have to learn. This would sure be a nice time to have a pic of the vac lines before you tore it apart.
Jim thanks for the info. I did take some pics before hand but cant seem to locate them. The only thing is you never know if someone had monkeyed with them and if they are correct. Also a guy at G&R told me to silicon the distributor to the back of the head. Would you be comfortable doing this?
There's no pressure there so it would probably work, after all that's all they use for a pan gasket.Has to be as good as the O ring which seems to always leak.I replaced mine about 3 years ago and it looks like it's leaking again.
hey i got my suzuki carry rebuilt and putting it back in and having trouble figuring out the all the vacuum lines i got most but need just a few and the bigger lines coming around carb and going up towards the engine side of carb if anyone has any anwsers let me know TIA
question here for you veterans, I had the exhaust manifold off and was looking it over when i noticed on the inside it has a piece of what looks to be screen. im sure this is a spark arrest but my question is, is it needed? I'm also wondering if it'd run better if removed to allow better exhaust flow. I just know with all the carbon build up that thing would have to clog at some point becoming restrictive.
I just looked at one I have on a shelf and on it that screen looks almost like a fiberglass kind of material and is right near where the O2 sensor goes in but I have no idea what it's for. If you were in a situation where you needed to pass a smog test it might mean something but I tend to agree with you that it's a restriction you don't really need. On this one of mine the down stream or muffler side of it is really clean but I bet the engine side isn't.
Well i figured out what it is, http://www.minitrucktalk.com/showthread.php?1544-Catalytic-Converter I did remove it and we will see whether its a good or bad decision
You shouldnt see any difference other than running better. The o2 sensor may or may not lt. up on the dash but you can simply put a jumper on the wire going to o2 sensor and ground it out to the frame and it will kill the dash lt. if it comes on. All that sensor reads is temp.
Thanks Hatch, I had never seen that post and often wondered why the sensor and no cat. I'm going to clean the one out of my Scrum now that I know where it is.
I took my truck apart and the cat is already gutted but I took the spare I have apart and will try to attach a pic so others can see what it looks like.I tried shining a real bright light through this cat,which looks pretty clean and got very little light through it so it has to cause some restriction I think. Well I get message"upload of file failed" so no pic.
Sorry guys.......been out if touch for a while.......... on the thermo switch........ mine had 3 lines to it. One was full time vacuum and one went to high idle linkage for warm up. I don't remember where the other one went off hand but I'll check when I get home. I use the high idle for when I'm winching. Works great!! I ran extra vacuum line up into the cab and leave both plugged off when driving. When I get detained or am helping someone else that is, I hook them up. That way the idle stays hi and my 4500 pound winch doesn't kill the engine hahaha
Hey Jim, try and upload that pic again. I got mine out without taking it apart by going through the bottom with a long screwdriver and busting it all to pieces and dumping it out.
I need help, i have been all over that site fupa posted links to the Desperately need tuning help but have run into a problem :frustration:. I am replumbing my water hoses and it seems i cant find any diagrams like mine. Everything i find has 2 intake ports and an inlet port, mine on the other hand has 3 intake ports plus the inlet port. I feel one is an out and an in port. whats the third port? My other engines i can follow and understand but this one i cant. Below is a pic of the transmission side "return" port and the other is of the other two intake ports plus the inlet port. If anyone has a setup like this please post pics or provide a description. thanks http://suzuki.epcdata.ru/carry/295_dc51t/engine/131/
I wish I had taken pics but when I was working on my sons truck I broke that check valve that is mounted to the motor mount,it shows up in your first pic, and after worrying about it way too long I just plumbed it to get circulation through the carb. and it worked fine.If I remember right there are 2 nipples off the intake and the lower hose mount with a Tee in one to divert some through that check valve but the way mine ended up it eliminated the Tee and check valve. Take into account this is an old phart's memory so be warned.
I wonder if one of those nipples is for a tank heater for winter. Up here we will sometimes use the tank heaters and have to pull a plug out of the block to put a nipple in and run the hose to the heater. The add a "T" in the line going to the heater core...........if that's the case, you could plug the extra nipple off. Hard to believe these things have so many vacuum and coolant hoses hahahaha
well guys I put my engine in and she fired right up, woohoo. However, once she started running i noticed she was pouring oil out of the bottom :frustration:. Luckily it was one of the bolts on the oil filter housing. Tightened them up and its quit. She is leaking a little anti-freeze from somewhere but not sure just yet. All this said however, I have a few more questions to ask. This is an 1992 model with AC, what type of Freon does it use? R12, 134, etc? Also since i gutted the catty im thinking about plugging the o2 sensor hole. Has anyone done this and what would i do to make the o2 sensor light go out? I saw where someone said to ground it to the frame, how do you do this? And lastly, she seems to be idled up really high, would i use that screw between vac ports to adjust her idle? As always, your responses are much appreciated.
