Im looking for heavy duty coils for my 93 diahatsu is 250 lbs rating enough or should I guy get 300. the q1 10 250 or q1 10 300 ? Thanks
I just put a set of 250s in my carry and haven't bottomed out yet. It helped raise my grill guard off the ground. I haven't been to town yet but it used to drag on the curb until I got out It also raised my ride height by 1". I am happy with them. It seems to me that 300s would be too big and make for a very rough ride IMO.
i think the 250s on my truck are too much. i think that i should of got 225's but with a plow it would be cool
I put 250's on my hijet. They are fine if you plan to stay on the road. I use mine off road quite a lot and it still bottoms out in the rough stuff.
300 is way too much. Stick with the 250's. Your still gonna get some bottoming out regardless but the difference from stock is very noticable.
Daihatsu Hijet Front Coil Springs http://www.minitruck.ca We Stock front Coil springs for Daihatsu Hijet Performance springs 175lbs and heavy front coil springs 225lbs
I had the red 175 lb springs on mine until last nite. I am 220 lbs and my son is 250 lbs. The 175 springs were not doing anything for us, so I bought 250 lb Afco's and put them on last nite. The difference is remarkable. The truck drives and handles great - no more bottoming and can actually feel the suspension and shocks working now. Only problem is that I now have positive camber on the front and I will have to raise the rear a bit. Right now the truck sits dead level front to rear. I think it should sit a bit higher at the back - does anybody know how much higher it should be ? ( I forgot to measure before I changes the fronts ) Has anybody changed camber by slotting the lower strut mounting holes ? I took a quick look at the top strut mounts, and am not keen on slotting the holes in the body. Has anybody used an ecentric bushing at the inner mount of the lower arm ? if so where can I get one ? Thanks Bob Jonah
I just finished my CV joints and decided to cut the bottom strut mounting hole. I had a lot of positive camber with a 2 3/4" lift. After I tightened everything and took it for a spin I realized I had adjusted too far in and had negative camber. So I readjusted by eye and tightened. After another short drive and bottoming out a couple times I pulled in my shop to check and found negative camber again. The problem may be the bottom bolt/nut/washer/lock washer is not holding secure enough. I tightened with all I have, but have not checked since. If you notch the bottom hole, make sure you leave enough "meat" to clamp to and tighten as much as possible. If this doesn't hold I'm gonna tack a piece of flat metal across the outside of the mount to keep the bolt from moving.
My apologizes for hijacking your thread Slayer 30, but I guess it is all related. The bottom hole on the strut does not have much room for adjustment, so I think that I will try the top hole. Does anybody know what the stock camber setting should be? The wheels go negative on compression, so I would imagine somewhere around 0 to 1/2 degree negative should be it If anybody knows the caster , I may make a threaded front link to adjust it as it is also affected by the higher ride height Bob Jonah
Guys, I've torn this thing apart, and rebuilt it four or five times now, What you want is a "camber bolt", Suzuki, yes, Probly the same part for you though. I've got a part # and pic of the box in my thread; 35 bucks ish I think, no drilling, no hacking, just buy it, install it, camber adjustment via indexing the bolt in the lower mount. Solid and adjustable...
Hi Spanner Excellent advise! I did not know that these were available. I cannot find the photo that you refer to, but is it the same as Summit Racing SPC 81250 EZ Cams ? If so, I will order them tonite. Thanks Bob Jonah
You guys got me wanting to buy something else now, thanks a alot!:frustration: I just measured my springs and compressed they are ~7", but they are 4" outside diameter. Am I missing something with the 10" x 2.5"? Could I have a different setup? I want to get the 250#'s but don't know if I'm getting the right size. How do you determine?
... Seriously guys, I'm really busy at work, like 105hr a week, but I WILL try to help out where I can. If you want to get my thoughts and mods on the DD51t, study my build thread...supercharger, ALL of my CRAZY is in there, somewhere...I couldn't even find the link to the mod, but it IS-IN-THERE, somewhere. Describeing the lower mount camber bolt install and all that is needed, It's all that is needed, REALLY!!!:sly:. The top box in the pic is the camber bolt (CarQuest # part/install), the boots...the best that there is out there [INSTALLEDX4 ]. I've gone through more than a few (boots), and these boys are the ones' that you want. Through hell and back, and still not torn. (Buy 4-"kits" ) Hype, +2, no lie...:sly: Also, I've read a few nubie nuggets of late, VALVES, MAN; let em' "TIC" a little. Heat transfer boy, if they "TIC" then you are getting heat transfer at more than that which is of the spec. Driving in the Arctic? Then spec them out, for sure, otherwise, let em' tic...(+50% of spec; FOR SURE!!!) You're NOT going to gain HP here, but you WILL gain engine life and TBO, AND the K6A...DO-NOT set the valve lash to spec!!! Nothing but burnt valves, and valve train wear in this model of engine. BABY this engines' valve train, and check the valve clearance every 5000km (or less--LESS)...YOU-HAVE-BEEN-WARNED!!! The "Kryptonite" of the K6A... The F6A, indestructible...Spaner-Tested...:sly: Front coils, 2 "5/8"s (ID), and, DO-NOT cut the spring ends off... More??
You are the man Jim, You want a set? Just say so, and I'll mail em to ya... I tried to send you a box of "yellow-jackets" out of Orlando when I was down there, and the shop owner sayed that we would have to go to jail and not pass go to make that happen, and no 22's either, evidence; across state lines or something or other... You want a set of camber bolts? I'll send em to ya.. Or, how about an over-sized, non-bypass-Wix (OS-NB-WIX)-(via; sub-sig) oil filter, Say the word. I know you really don't "need" anything, but just let me know...K? BTW, as you can see from the pic, it is the "top" location that I spec'd out. I remember now that I did a lot of research here (common location is the lower) however, I discovered that the "stress-9" lower location would be of a safety failure position. Failure of the camber bolt in the upper location would only result in a neg-camber condition of [-5 deg] and would NOT result in a loss of control. The lower position, not recommended...:sly:
Hi Guys: I made 5 1/2" shackles for the rear springs, and now with the 250# Afco's the truck is sitting pretty. Specialty Products Co. # 81250 camber bolts just arrived via Fed-X from Summit Racing, and I pick up my repaired ( Yes, it had a leak ) fuel tank this afternoon. Should be back on the road tomorrow, and I will let you know how it all works out. Cheers
Thanks spaner but I got them ordered,probably here but I've been busy with a broken tractor axle.I appreciate the effort on the 22's but it's getting tough to do anything like that.
So, the camber bolts worked great. Front wheels are at @ -1/2 degree camber now and the truck handles great - better than ever before. I was a bit concerned that the higher stance may affect the rear drive shaft, but it seems fine - no vibration or extra noise evident. The only issue with the camber bolts was that the top of the hub could not move inward in the strut ( touching ) so out came the handy mini grinder and I shaved @ 2mm off. The camber bolt was then able to do its job nicely Thanks again to Spanner for the recommendation Bob Jonah
I just put 250 Lbs Coil Springs on my 98 Daihatsu Mini Truck...PERFECT ! Not the same truck....very easy to change also...Oh..I also have an extra set of new in box 250 lbs springs for sale..if anyone interested.$100 plus shipping.. I ordered 2 sets.I didnt know they were sold in sets..some places sell each. but anyway..they work really good...nice ride now..with 2 of us in cab.