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Deathwobble woes.....

Discussion in 'Suzuki Carry' started by InkAndPistons, Feb 19, 2024.

  1. InkAndPistons

    InkAndPistons New Member

    1996 Suzi Every Turbo

    Trying not to go the nuclear option and just replace everything in the front end..
    Typical 45 mile and hour , tap on the break lower about 10mph problem goes away can usually shoot up to 60mp no problem, hit some road bumps... back to wobble..


    I have aftermarket rims (same ones i have on my carry truck 2+years no problems)
    I switched back to stock but problem still remains..

    So far i have replaced:

    Car was recently aligned. still have the problem

    Jacked the car up pulled on each wheel individually moved wheel nothing looked out of the ordinary

    I replaced the center pivot bushing with as far as i can tell is a genuine OEM Part pic below..
    (i swear it got worse. maybe just moved the problem up the line somewhere.)
    there seems to be much more flex on the new part then the old or even my carry which seems to have almost zero flex.. video of the new bushing in action:


    I checked all the tie rod ends.. nothing loose nothing seems worn. 3 definitely new one maybe old but still feels solid.
    I have a set of the previously suggested Mercedes rods ready to install,. if needed.

    I replaced the top hats and bushings on the struts with new ones.

    I have the tension/strut rod bushings on order. should be here this week to replace.

    i was previously able to drive it with out too much drama making a few 13+ mile trips with it.. but i think it got way worse.. this is only a couple blocks from my house...

    This video is after center bushing and top hats.. (squeak is inside the dash not outside)



    I basically have left:
    •new control arms (unique to a every van because it has the sway bar so i can't get off cheap on them)
    anyone in the market for custom ones? i kind of want to make adjustable set. )
    •new idler arm (or just bushing if its replaceable)
    •maybe something in the steering rack?

    any other ideas? I'm hoping the tension rod bushings buttons this up
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 19, 2024
  2. t_g_farrell

    t_g_farrell Active Member

    Thats way more flex on that new steering bushing that it should have. The part number checks out but maybe its not installed correctly?
     
  3. reggie98

    reggie98 Member

    Tires and rims....are the tires balanced, do you have a bent rim, have the steel belts shifted in one of the tires?
     
  4. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    Not only did I have play in the Pitman I also had issue with not enough Castor
    My struts were too straight up and down, I leaned them back a degree or two!
     
  5. InkAndPistons

    InkAndPistons New Member

    how were you able to lean them back they seem to just install where they install. not really any adjustment point up top?
     
  6. InkAndPistons

    InkAndPistons New Member

    seems to be installed and seated as it should be.. i have a back up part form another vendor i could swap them and see, i just have to destroy this one to test so i was waiting to see..
     
  7. InkAndPistons

    InkAndPistons New Member

    tried stock tires and aftermarket problem exists in both. The aftermarket ones do need to be balanced though.
     
  8. InkAndPistons

    InkAndPistons New Member

    update i replaced the strut bar bushings and still no better. i think its actually getting worse everything i try. any other thoughts? steering rack? bad alignment?
     
  9. KCCats

    KCCats Active Member

    LOL
    YOU didn't align it
    Heck a 1/16" of to in will do it!
    I added a 2" lift with castor and camber adjustments
     
  10. InkAndPistons

    InkAndPistons New Member

    no "I" didn't personally align it.
    It was aligned however by the shop that is traditionally the best in the area, although i suppose one could've gotten by them.

    I didn't make any changes to the tie rods, which which i think is the only adjustment point on a stock setup. I did reseat them in the pitman arm which should maintain the exact same placement they were adjusted to.
    I did change the strut rod bushings but those are full tight there was nothing for me to align there.
     
  11. t_g_farrell

    t_g_farrell Active Member

    The strut rods control caster for the most part so its important to make sure they are equally set. I still think your pitman arm is too loose from looking at the vids. Mine was that loose when I had death wobble and new tires made it a lot better but replacing the yoke bushing and the tierod ends fixed it up. I still have some looseness from the strut rod bushings.
     
  12. InkAndPistons

    InkAndPistons New Member

    Update.... so I replaced the center pivot bushing and it's a night and day difference there is no slop in it what so ever. however i think im moving problems down the line now i get a slight shimmy still but i can almost speed up to stop it and now i'm getting a wobble on slow down.. sounds like a warped rotor huh? any other thoughts.. i still didnt replace the control arms.. but i'm less susupicious of them now.

    as far as the strut rods go the nuts seemed to bottom out on the threading for the rods (which is where they were when i started) so it didnt seem like there was much adjustment although i suppose i could back them off some but no tighter.
     
    t_g_farrell likes this.
  13. t_g_farrell

    t_g_farrell Active Member

    Yeah once you tighten things up then other things will show their looseness and make noise or wiggle some. I did my center pivot and tierod ends which fixes my issues. At high speed (>45mph) I can feel some wiggle in the front end but its not scary or severe (yet). I also need new shocks which contributes a lot to the noise and feel of the front end. The rear trailing arms on the van make a lot of noise probably due to bushings being 25+ years old.
     
  14. InkAndPistons

    InkAndPistons New Member

    yeah, I'm going to have it realigned as well and looking for new rotors too thanks for the write up on the suzuki esteem brakes probably going to go that route.
     
    t_g_farrell likes this.
  15. t_g_farrell

    t_g_farrell Active Member

    As long as you have 13in wheels the front brakes work great.
     
  16. InkAndPistons

    InkAndPistons New Member

    how about 15's?
     
  17. t_g_farrell

    t_g_farrell Active Member

    Bigger the better, I just know OEM 12in would not work. The wheels on my van are actually suzuki 13in wheels and they just clear the brakes from the esteem I put on.
     
  18. InkAndPistons

    InkAndPistons New Member

    gotcha. thanks for the info and all the help.. are vans are twinsies :)
     
    t_g_farrell likes this.

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