So…just bought this thing from the government. It’s a 99 db52t f6a 5speed and brought it home yesterday to find a huge waste of money. The oil pan is leaking badly ans rusted out and cannot find one anywhere at all! Then when you put it in 4x4 ans try to move it clunks and thumps horribly. Cannot begin to diagnose the 4x4 until I get the oil pan resolved. So does anyone have one for sale ans anyone know of common 4x4 clunk issues with the db52t?
You might try G&R Imports, or Twin Rivers Mini Trucks. It's possible that Mayberry Mini Trucks might have one.
Great info thanks! fyi g&r is to call back, twin river left a vm, and guy at Mayberry says he only imports trucks and doesn’t deal with parts
So in an effort to help other 99 db52t owners in the future….only found 2 pans available in the US and one was rusty and one was dented. They no longer make these because the 99-02 db52 is a black sheep I was told by everyplace so took chances on the dented one and bought it for around $100 delivered. Fast forward on the removal and install today, took about an hour and a half total (including wait time). Removing pan is easy, mine is a 99 db52t 4x4 and all I had to do was use a 12mm socket to remove the clutch pedal linkage on the back of trans, then used a 10mm 1/4” drive short socket and a 6” wobble 1/4” extension on my m12 stubby impact to remove the rest of the bolts and 2 nuts. This includes the one remaining 10mm bolt on the inspection plate behind the bell housing along with that one 12mm clutch linkage bolt I just mentioned about. You can then turn that out of the way the access the two 10mm bolts in the bell housing for the oil pan, then work your way around the rest of the pan bolts including the two front 10mm pan nuts. Once all removed I simply tapped a small chisel between the steel pan and the aluminum engine housing and popped the old rotted pan down. This pulls straight down and exposed the the crankshaft and engine internals and sump strainer. I then used some Brake cleaner to spray around the aluminum engine and use a small scrapper to clean up all the old silicon. The the same to the new (used) oil pan and used the brake cleaner to clean all the old gunk and sludge out of the inside of it too. Lastly used a 3m quick connect gasket remover on a m12 die grinder to completely remove all gasket material from the steel pan. Used carb choke parts cleaner spray to go over the aluminum engine surface and the steel oil pan one more time before proceeding to lay down a bead of gasket material. I used the permatex black silicon rtv for oil pans for this, followed the back instructions by creating to the best of my abilities a continuous 1/4ish bead around the oil pan and circling the bolt holes, then directions said to install right away and finger tighten the bolts until gasket material begins to lightly seep out the side. The tricky part is while on your side on the ground trying to put the pan straight up into place allowing the sump strainer to go in its hole in the pan and then align it perfectly over the two front pan studs that you can’t see while on your back and hold it steady there while you try and insert the nuts and bolts around the pan. So a friend would really help at this probably. But anyway I used the same 10mm and wobble extension on a 1/4 but driver handle to gently put the bolts in loosely snug/finger ish tight ish all the way around. Product said to leave like this for an hour and then torque down. Problem was I couldn’t find torque specs and the research fear of horror stores about torquing them to 8ft pounds ans snapping them scared me so I used a short 1/4” ratchet to together them to where I then said click myself! I went all around all the bolts three times to be sure they were all pretty snug. Remember these are only tiny 10mm fine thread bolts and nuts going into an aluminum block, don’t be he-man! Lastly directions said to wait atleast 24 hours before filling with fluid and returning to service. Be sure to put the inspection plate and clutch linkage and there two bolts back into place too. So I replaced the oil filter and air filter while there and will fill it tomorrow with synthetic 5w30 oil and run it and hope for the best and no leaks. I’ll update if it leaks in the future but is easy enough and quick enough to redo it. FYI there was no need to remove any cross members or anything else to do this. It was that simple.
Good to hear you found a replacement part. Looking at resellers of JDM parts, it seems that specific oil pan is indeed out of stock everywhere.
