resurrection and restoration of suzuki carry

Ok....now i have some well deserved bragging to do while i sit here enjoying my victory smoke!!!! I completely tore the carb apart. Spotless inside. All jets and passages clean and shiney. So as per the pou's advice i took the top off and inspected the diaphragm. Looked brand new. So i started feeling.g around a bit and the plastic round thing that is screwed in the middle popped down. I thought that was odd to i took all that apart. Cleaned the already clean everything and put it all back together. Cut all the ends off the vacuum lines so i would have a good tight fit again and put everything back together. This time i actually hooked up the egr. I had plugged off the vacuum line to it a while back. Any way.......i fired her up and she runs great EVEN WHEN WARMED UP TO OPERATING TEMPS!!!!!!! I think maybe that round plastic thing under the diaphragm was stuck and that was my problem all along.

 

I've been trying to post pics on the thread but so far am not smart enough to be able to figure it out yet. Unless its impossible from mobile phone.........

 

Smart enough?
You just did a whole lot of sh!t...

Pics are easy MM,
Get those pics on to the computer; probly with a connector wire.

Then use the "insert image" icon. On the top right.

You'll figure it out, keep trying...

 

Thanx. I just really loath using the computer...........usually end up spending hours fixing what the wife and kids have done to it since my last torture session Hahaha. Ill get some on here eventually. I have pics of the melted fan and fan shroud as well as a complete vacuum line diagram for my truck that i drew.

I hooked up the egr again and am thinking about removing it. It opens up when full throttle. Actually loose power. So......yea......its gone. I also removed the vacuum lines going to the air filter housing as well as the cold air valve to get it ready for a snorkel.

My tires should be here this week.
The 275 pound springs next Monday and the 3 inch lift some time between

I took a break from wrenching on her today and hauled firewood the kids actually enjoyed cutting and loading wood in her today. That will wear off all too soon Hahaha. After that i added a cd player radio and two 3 way 6x9 speakers and boxes. Don't want em in the doors. One is on the floor in the middle the other is top middle of the back window. Ill say this. Its LOUD and sounds great half a mile away Hahaha. Monday ill finish the outside speakers for those not fortunate enough to have their own radio Hahaha

Did i mention i need to do a timing belt.........im so confused. I need more to do.
Anyone know where to get a decent priced timing belt? I guess while im waiting for that ill throw a set of h.i.d head lights in just for grins. I think i have a set here that will fit..............

Amy way. Thanx for all the help i really do appreciate it. Ill throw pics up when i figure it out and sorry about this long post

 

Well i found out that we can register our mini trucks in Alaska as a slow.moving vehicle. The only hitch is that they require a manufacturers certificate of origin. Does anyone know a way to locate one for.my truck. The last owner didn't receive one when they bought it.

 

Got my new springs in yesterday and installed on the truck today. So now im just waiting to find a set of rims wide enough for my tires. In the process of removing the struts i discovered i need new cv boots as well as motor and transmission mounts. Man when i get this thing done ill be a master mechanic for old mini trucks Hahaha

 

Yes you will, and we'll be glad to have you here as a long term member.

I'll give you a cupple of points, one at a time, if you'd like. I don't want to mess you guys up here though, cu'z you're doing a great job, off of each other. Back and forth.

The EGR, THAT will save you money, in the long term.
Your test was right, but it was NOT "Under-Load".
Try the same test again, but, pull an F150 behind you. You'll find that the EGR is closed.

Think of it this way;
AIR-1 VS AIR-2...Into the manifold;
Carb (mixture-is-perfect)-AIR-1
Bypassed Exhaust, through the EGR; AIR-2...

Coasting down a big incline, on the hyway @100KPH, off the throttle...AIR-1...1/3rds...AIR-2...2/3rds...
Coming out of a mud hole, pulling your boat, on a trailer...AIR-1...3/3rds...EGR...is closed; nothing.

In a perfect world, the EGR helps you, by filling the engine rotational space, by re-routing exhaust gases to fill the spaces required by the engine...with burnt-gases...as apposed to gasoline-charged gasses...
Out the tail pipe it goes...
Load VS no-load...
It'll cost you a few MPG, in the long run, but other than that...you should be just fine to disconnect it.

If you are looking for a gain, in anyway, by disconnecting it? Then NO...
If you are looking for a savings, in anyway, by keeping it? Then yes...

Will it cost you anything but money to disconnect it? NO...

Don't be afraid to test, and don't be afraid to ask questions, you guys are doing great!!!

op:

 

Sounds like you are doing a great job moose. Let me know if you are going to need any of those LED's I got. I am going to order my new rubber for my tracks this week I think. I cant wait to take it out here soon. I will call you tomm

Pilot

 

Thanx guys.

Spanner.......your absolutely right. I forgot that im running without the thermal vacuum switch. And have rerouted things a bit to accommodate for that.......so I've since remedied my problem and hooked the egr back up but disconnected a different line Haha.

Masspilot.......sounds good to me. Ill be waiting to hear from ya. Im starting to get real busy here lately. But i always have my phone with me. Whether or not it actually rings is another story though Hahaha

Got my timing belt and thermastat yesterday so hopefully soon ill be cursing at that Hahaha

 

Still Havnt got to work on my mini-mog yet.......apparently paying all the kids sports stuff has to come first. Oh and their gear and and and i tell ya i don't know who changed the rules or when but something isn't right!! I had to pay for all.mine when i was a kid. Been WANTED a job and to work. Mostly because i liked having money to spend....but. ..kids these days don't. Not one bit. Hahaha Hmmmmm..........i guess maybe i changed the rules on myself dog gone it Hahaha oh well. Soon......very soon. Then ill be working on boats Hahaha

 

Finally get to get back on!!! I was suffering withdrawals Hahaha

 

Got my outside speakers mounted and wired. Sadly my mini truck has a much better stereo than any of the trucks we drive all day Hahaha.

 

Well i have her running good but just doesnt seem to have much power. I have to rap her out fairly good to hit 4th gear. She holds about 50 kph and has a tough time goin faster unless the wind is pushing us down hill. Exhaust is clear. Has oil. Good fuel. Cap rotor plugs and wires are all new. I really wish i vould find that dang 4 hose timed vavuum switch........ive been running her without it so im sure that part of the vacuum system is goofy

 

Why do you call it a 4?
Just plug the line off the manifold, no "idle-up"...no "diff-lock"....but no "leak" either...:sly:

Then, not a problem.

 

I've Goth the hoses plugged together and plugged off the egr. I need the dif loc or I won't make it down the trail. The reason I call it a 4 is because it has 4 hose bibs on it. I know one is vacuum in. The other three are the systems ran off of it. I still need to trace them out. Just too busy now. Our spring is 2 months late and that's going to make summer even shorter than normal. I'm hoping to get back to it soon. I also need to figure out how to set up the dif local to stay locked in all gears. Even though I just use it in first and second now when I get the tracks I'll be running in 4 low all the time and will be almost a nessesity

 

Yea, yea..OK.

Disregard, I got you now. Cu'z on mine it's a 2. They come in 4, 2 and none.
It's just a switch though. No vac leak there if you don't have anything plugged into it.
EGR no work when cold. Choke opens slow, when cold.
Total bypass, choke to choke, EGR to EGR,
Both EGR and choke may work a little funny when cold, but the same as factory when hot.
With the 2, I only have the EGR off when cold, the choke has no "snap open bypass".

 

Why would they run the dif lock off a thermo vac switch? Makes no sense to me.I haven't got that far with my project truck and my Scrum doesn't have dif lock so this is new to me but I would think that you should be able to lock the dif at any temp.I can see why they would limit it to low gears but not temp.

 

Oh man....that explains why my egr was opening when I hit the gas hahaha had the wrong lines hooked together haha. I know it takes for ever to warm up but we are still in the 40's here.........that diff lock is odd. Maybe they don't want the added load on the engine till its completely warm......

 

The diff-lock does not run through the Thermal Switching Valve (TSV).

It was me that was confused about MM's statement above, and thought that he was talking about a broken Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV).
That's why I asked about why he was calling it a "4". After which, we were back to talking about the TSV and just plugging the EGR-vac directly to the EGR and same thing with the choke bypass line. But for the choke, it is just a snap-off bypass around the choke restrictor (two lines run the choke system on the 4-TSV equipped truck; one full-flow line (hot engine) and one restricted line (cold engine), so you could just plug both of those "choke lines" that were connected to the TSV as they are the full flow hot engine lines. A 2-TSV equipped truck like mine doesn't even have these.


The diff-lock does not run through the TSV.

 

Thanks for clearing that up.I'm old and easily confused.Mine are 2 port TSV and run the egr only.

 

yea thank you. im always confused when it comes to this little truck hahaha. im learning though. I finally got some pictures on here of a few things ive been doing. for some reason I load them and while typing the description all the pics disappear. ill try and figure out how to get the ones I got to stay posted here later and see if I can get the rest loaded. the new tires and rims really look great and the tires are amazing. I cant wait to get the other two rims and put them on front. ill float quite nicely and look good doin it hahaha. although I think im goin to have to paint the truck now since the rims are so purty hahaha

 

Well i got my bumper finished and welded on and had to test her out........

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=It4BH3EXUqQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player

If anyone watches the video and comments ill explain why we did what we did hahaha

 

Man that is big time cool!It wasn't that long ago that your little truck was headed for the trash heap and now it's rescuing suvs. Good job

 

Hahaha Thanx man!! Sorry haven't been on in a while. We sort if skipped spring and went right into fall for a while now I think summer has decided to show up for a while. Whoever said global warming is full of it!! Haha I haven't had time to do too much with the mini-mog lately. Been quite busy. I got the 3 inch lift blocks for the front the other day. Finally had time to chip the slag off the welds and grind the rust off them. Got a good layer of paint on em as well. So since it won't be getting dark here for a while I'm hoping to get that installed and make the parts to lift the rear. I still haven't been brave enough to tackle the timing belt but since I'll have the front end out of her I guess I won't have any good reasons not too hahaha. Y'all have a good day

 

Well.....i finally got my other two rims. So i started the process of lifting this monster 3 inches. I made my own rear shackles. The outside bars are made out of 3/8 x 2 plate and i welded a 2 x 4 inch piece of rectangle box steel in the midle to ensure there isnt any side to side slop. Those went together well. The correct spacing is exatly 2 3/8" for the 2x4" box steel. That way the rubber in the spring and shackle mount arent squeezed too tight. Still allows free movement. Just make sure to do all the welding in sections to avoid warping. The front is still in the works. I ordered a set of pre built spacers for the top of the struts. Now im workimg on lowering everything in front. My issue now is that 2 of the 4 bolt hole are stripped on the truck. My 2" square tube that i cut and drilled fits perfect. So tomorrow i get to go see if i can find a 12mm .125 thread tap....... Then make the differential drop brackets and cut the motor mount. Woo hoo hahaha

 

Here are the shackles

 

Did you see spaners "some light reading" thread in the mini lounge section? There is a pic of a thermo/vac switch, from a Jimmy pickup, that looks just like yours.Don't know about size but something to look at.

 

Sweet!! No i didnt. But ill go look for it now. Thanx man!!

 

I think those shackles will be the last part of your truck to ever break lol.

 

Hahaha that's what I was shoot in for hahaha. I figure if I have to build it myself I'm going to build it one time. Hahaha I've got the front sub frame dropped 2 inches as well as the front diff. Now I'm trying to figure out how much room the front drive line needs......... I'm not going to cut the engines crossmember. I think I'll just drop it and the one under the tranny a bit........... I guess we'll see.....